e36 parts & maintenance

[burn]

swaying left to right while driving. confirm, steering rack problem.
bought a E36 rebuilt recon unit with 6 month warranty and also need to return back my old steering rack back to them.
place - chan used parts trading at jalan puchong
cost - RM1000 + 3% credit card charge
pasang later, foreman sibuk today!

 

[rubes72]

Burn, Sorry but doesn't 1000 for a recond rack a bit expensive? It's usually 700-800. Maybe prices have gone up since i changed mine.

 

[rubes72]

Burn, Also, have you checked your lower arm bushings? Had a simmilar problem, car felt like driving a proton. Changed lower arm bushing, Repaired Rims.. bengkok, re-did balancing and allignment... now car drives like a BMW. just my 2 cents

 

[rubes72]

Changed 2 rear wheel bearings = RM80x2
Labour = RM260

Total = RM420

1+2=3,

Hi, you paid 260 for labour ? it's a bit high.. but nevermind i paid RM 1990 to change both my bearings. Went to an known workshop in my area, cause read bearings jammed, too stingy to tow car to regular workshop. Anyway.. the guy had a BMW logo on his workshop sign, so thot he know how to do the job, he ended up cracking my knuckle arm and damaged the drive shaft, so had to buy a secondhand one from the chop shop.

Lesson learnt... don't go to any dammn shop just becos it has a BMW logo on it.

 

[burn]

Burn, Sorry but doesn't 1000 for a recond rack a bit expensive? It's usually 700-800. Maybe prices have gone up since i changed mine.

first thought, went to tyreshop for alightment. foreman check, nothing wrong with whatever it is, but say something wrong with the steering rack when he drove.
then went to regular place, foreman did some adjustment on the steering rack. feel OK when driving slow. but when driving fast, it sway a little bit, which to me is very dangerous when you're on the highway road. this morning, went again to check at regular workshop. found out nothing wrong with the rest.
call AB today, new RM5600++, mata terbeliak! straight went to potong kreta near my place, was offer 2 choice, potong or rebuilt. potong with warranty, a month, RM800. rebuilt with 6 months, RM1000. seller said rebuilt can last few years depending on your driving. so by adding RM200, might as well get a rebuilt with the 6 month warranty!
what i know, yes, someplaces might sell slightly cheaper. but for convenience, i prefer to buy somewhere near my area. somemore, have been to this place few times to check out things. malas nak pi jauh jauh. silap silap sampai sana, takda stok.

 

[godflesh]

Burn, Also, have you checked your lower arm bushings? Had a simmilar problem, car felt like driving a proton. Changed lower arm bushing, Repaired Rims.. bengkok, re-did balancing and allignment... now car drives like a BMW. just my 2 cents

Burn,

Go with rubes72. Worn lower arm bushings does cause steering instability and also the effect / sensation that warped discs give when braking at high speeds. You might want to check your absorber mountings while you're at it. But I'd go with rubes72 before splashing on a steering rack. You may want to opt for the solid m3 type bush - more stability and lasts longer.

Just wondering --- why is your mech so sure that the steering rack needs replacing?

 

[burn]

Burn,

Go with rubes72. Worn lower arm bushings does cause steering instability and also the effect / sensation that warped discs give when braking at high speeds. You might want to check your absorber mountings while you're at it. But I'd go with rubes72 before splashing on a steering rack. You may want to opt for the solid m3 type bush - more stability and lasts longer.

Just wondering --- why is your mech so sure that the steering rack needs replacing?

will check with them again. absorber mounting done, few months back! front disc brake and pad replace, less than a year old. steering ada free play abit. maybe will need to change to coupling rod too. thanks!

 

[godflesh]

Burn, Sorry but doesn't 1000 for a recond rack a bit expensive? It's usually 700-800. Maybe prices have gone up since i changed mine.

rubes72,

why did you change your rack? mine's weeping oil - very slighlty. was planning to get the steering repair kit and have mech do it. all in all maybe set me back 250-300. Why do most ppl opt for recon rack - is it becos repairing it is not possible or not worth the trouble?

 

[rubes72]

rubes72,

why did you change your rack? mine's weeping oil - very slighlty. was planning to get the steering repair kit and have mech do it. all in all maybe set me back 250-300. Why do most ppl opt for recon rack - is it becos repairing it is not possible or not worth the trouble?

why? Cause I'm a mechenics best friend. change anything that does not feel right. Mine got noise, like air and very rough ...same noise you get when got no steering fluid... bleed fliud no difference .. check everything ok... spent about RM 400 on troubleshooting the problem, so, to cut my losses... just changed it. I used to blast my stereo.. but now I drive with it off... just to hear the engine purr.... end result... money well spent... and make some guys richer.

 

[rubes72]

will check with them again. absorber mounting done, few months back! front disc brake and pad replace, less than a year old. steering ada free play abit. maybe will need to change to coupling rod too. thanks!

Burn, I know you bought your rack already, but just for the sake of it, do this steps, might help,

1. when car jacked, try to move wheel, it it shakes, then your tie-rod is gone
2. check for cracks on your lower arm mounting
3. check your free play on your steering wheel.. there should be very little freeplay.. if freeplay is too much, you can adjust the freeplay setting... unless the coupling is gone.
4. Another attributed facter to sway is the steering bush is worn off, this is evident when you turn the sreering but the car takes time to response.. also it is difficult to maintain allignment.
5.Many workshops have uncalibrated allignment machines.. so, after allignment still have to do manual test.

I hope tis helps. I know how it's like went thru it, and my mech told me to change almost everything, in the end I only changed the lower arm bushing and went to a reliable allignment shop.

Cheers

 

[1+2=3]

anyone else have price of labour for changing both rear wheel bearings in klang valley? just curious to know.

anyways.. when i bought my car, it had lots of freeplay in the steering, and checking it myself, the rubber boots on the steering rack were broken, and it look a little moist with oil as well.. after i bought the car, got the rack serviced, and also changed the tie rod ends.. steering back to normal.

btw rubes.. jangan la "proton bash" for no good reason... if you wanna describe a problem on your car, saying it feels like a proton doesn't mean a thing la, to be fair...
"Also, have you checked your lower arm bushings? Had a simmilar problem, car felt like driving a proton. "
imho, protons today have some of the best steering of any FWD car in the market.. full of feedback and has very direct and accurate feel. and thats a fact.

 

[anaksarawak]

Proton indeed have one of the best steering of FWD. I used to own a Wira 1.6 XLI Aeroback Manual, on 16" BBS and Goodyear Eagle 215 50 16, and Monroe Sensa. The drive is just perfect! I can control the steering with just two fingers on the highway as the feedback and stablity is as good as perfect. My AUDI A4 (1994) dont even give me that feel. Since I am looking for E36, test drive almost 12 cars and out of 12, 10 have a similar probem "THE CAR PULL TO THE LEFT" have to turn a little to the right to maintain straight.

 

[zairiniz]

FYI,

I have just replaced my auto-tranny. It cost me RM 5,500 everything (ATF not included).

Normal service roughly about RM 300 each time.

 

[rubes72]

anyone else have price of labour for changing both rear wheel bearings in klang valley? just curious to know.

anyways.. when i bought my car, it had lots of freeplay in the steering, and checking it myself, the rubber boots on the steering rack were broken, and it look a little moist with oil as well.. after i bought the car, got the rack serviced, and also changed the tie rod ends.. steering back to normal.

btw rubes.. jangan la "proton bash" for no good reason... if you wanna describe a problem on your car, saying it feels like a proton doesn't mean a thing la, to be fair...
"Also, have you checked your lower arm bushings? Had a simmilar problem, car felt like driving a proton. "
imho, protons today have some of the best steering of any FWD car in the market.. full of feedback and has very direct and accurate feel. and thats a fact.

1+2=3, Sorry bro, not bashing Proton, but a figure of speech. What i meant was that the car felt light and would take off from the ground any time( or a least that was how my proton felt from day one i got the car) But you cannot blame me also, the mech at proton also alway say ... " What you expect this is a proton" ... so simple case of monkey say monkey do!! - Speaking from a ex-proton driver. But you are right .

 

[anaksarawak]

Come on guys!! Proton Wira is just above 1200kg and your 3 series is almost 2 tons. Front wheels and Rear Wheels are different pedigree all together! If you put a 16" rims and 215-50-16 tyres to a WIRA it will be more stable then a 185-65-14 tyres ya?? Anyway.. BMW will always be better..

 

[megatniza]

Gear box warning light intermittenly will come out & engine will loose power .
Turn off everything & restart , it will be ok . After 2-3 days , it will happen again .

Utimate Auto Service , Ipoh
E36 318I 1995
Change Gear Box Control Unit - Bosch .
Part ( 2nd hand ) & labor = RM1100
So far so good . 1 month already .

Did call up a few dealers - some even quoted up to RM1500 .
Think I got a good deal .
But did went tru some DIY sites , the control unit could be repaired
if you are good in soldering . Just need to open the box it & check if
all the ICs are in good contact to PCBs & resolder any loose ICs .

 

[1+2=3]

Come on guys!! Proton Wira is just above 1200kg and your 3 series is almost 2 tons. Front wheels and Rear Wheels are different pedigree all together! If you put a 16" rims and 215-50-16 tyres to a WIRA it will be more stable then a 185-65-14 tyres ya?? Anyway.. BMW will always be better..

bmw sure better la.. rear wheel drive is always better in that respect, as the steering wheels are uncorrupted by power feeding thru the front wheels ala FWD.

and we are all waaayyy off topic here..hahaah


BTW megatniza, yes.. i just heard from one of the other E36 owners the other day, who said he knows someone who can do the repairs on the gearbox control unit.

 

[kitt]

Come on guys!! Proton Wira is just above 1200kg and your 3 series is almost 2 tons. Front wheels and Rear Wheels are different pedigree all together! If you put a 16" rims and 215-50-16 tyres to a WIRA it will be more stable then a 185-65-14 tyres ya?? Anyway.. BMW will always be better..

from http://udmowners.com/v2/viewtopic.php?t=66

Weight in kg
Unladen (EU) 1,395

:getyourfactsright hehe

 

[LCP]

Let me get everything back on track again on this topic...

Work done at Chu Seng Auto Repairs, Penang, on Sat 3 March 2007...

Parts:
Bilstein front strut dampers (I call them bump stops): RM38 x 2 = RM76
Front strut dust covers: RM10 x 2 = RM20
Rear strut bump stops: RM55 x 2 = RM110
Front anti-roll bar connecting links (the short metal thingy with a bush and a sealed ball joint): RM68 x 2 = RM136
Left hand side steering tie rod: RM175

Labour costs:
To do all the above work (includes taking out all 4 struts), plus checking battery cabling: RM160
Work on LHS sagging rear bumper: RM20

Tax: 5% of RM180 = RM9

Pic of front RHS ARB connecting link, have to take it while it is still spanking shining new...

Pic of front LHS showing new ARB connecting link and steering tie rod...

 

[LCP]

Oops, forgot to mention that after installing the new tie rod had to go for wheel alignment, done at Goh Swee Hin Sdn Bhd at Jalan Air Itam (actually nearer Jln Dato Keramat) here in Penang...

4-wheel alignment to user specs: RM48

My alignment details, since no weight is available to put on seats and in boot:

Front toe: +0.1mm each side, giving a total toe-in of 0.2mm - basically almost no toe-in, I preferred it this way (I have no idea how to convert these to degrees as popularly used elsewhere in the world)

Front camber: not adjustable, but it's in the region of -1°20' due to lowered springs.

Rear toe: +2.4mm each side, total toe-in of 4.8mm

Rear camber: approx -1°42' on each side, spec is -1°45' to -2°00' I think, but once there's driver and passenger load I should be okay.