e36 328 ownership experience

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hi lee, caught ur car twice this week...in BSC & Concorde, looked around but didnt know who u were,,,,

noticed ur grill...nice, how much n were to get,,mine is loose, intrested...thx

cheers,,,
 
Damn dude, those are some nice pics!
And really interesting to know that the onboard digital aircon controller can do that! I must go try it out on my dad's '96 E36! :D
 
sachseelan;285870 said:
hi lee, caught ur car twice this week...in BSC & Concorde, looked around but didnt know who u were,,,,

noticed ur grill...nice, how much n were to get,,mine is loose, intrested...thx

cheers,,,

Thanks. Got it from the potong shop introduced by Zoggee. I'm either in Dome, gazing fondly at my car, or in Havana Club, getting high on a Cohiba. Do join me next time.

evilnickwong;285883 said:
Damn dude, those are some nice pics!
And really interesting to know that the onboard digital aircon controller can do that! I must go try it out on my dad's '96 E36! :D

evilnickwong;286607 said:
Btw, I found the original list here in our forum archive:
http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4121&page=4

The digital speedo will be fun to try out one day. It's working on my dad's E36. Wish my E30 had some easter eggs too. :D


Hey, thanks a lot evilnickwong. I was looking for that list. Thanks for locating it.

So, for convenience, it is reproduced here.

Number
Test Function

1 Interior Temp Sensor
2 Exterior Temp Sensor
3 Left Heater Core Sensor
4 Right Heater Core Sensor
5 Evaporator Temp Sensor
6 Engine Speed Input
7 Road Speed Input
8 "Y" Factor Value
9 Fresh Air Flap Position (%)
10 AUC Sensor Voltage
11 Battery Voltage
12 Software Version
Copyright ? 1999 Richard Nott

Don't ask me what the meanings are, other than the obvious ones, ha ha... That's the extent of my knowledge. :rock:
 
Moonlight, 3 a.m.

No flash, just moonbeam.

DSC_02730002-1024.jpg
 
Crash Testing - e36 vs modern cars

Many thanks for the kind comments above you guys.

On another note, someone posted a thread on Euro NCAP testing on e36 a while back.

I revisited the site and found that they've added videos and pictures of the testing, and I thought I'd compare with current cars to see how far we've come.

Here's the link.

http://www.euroncap.com/tests/bmw_3_series_1997/15.aspx


Check out the video, (click the 'films' link on the top left hand corner) which is quite dramatic, and you'll wince at what happens to a perfectly nice e36.

The score was only 1.5 star.

BMW e36 316 1997

Frontal impact
64 km/h (40 mph) impact into deformable barrier. Simulates typical offset impact into another car.

Here's a picture of the front impact test.

15.jpg


Driver Front Passenger
100px.gif
100px.gif



Side Impact Driver
100px.gif
legend-adultoccupant.gif


Compare that to the current Mini, 5-star.

Mini 2007

288.jpg


Driver Front Passenger
100px.gif
100px.gif



Side Impact Driver
100px.gif
legend-adultoccupant.gif


Here's the link.

http://www.euroncap.com/tests/bmw_mini_2007/288.aspx


And the current 3-series, 5-star. As you can see, there has been a lot of improvement since 1997.

BMW 3-series 2007

225.jpg


225_crs.jpg


225_driver.jpg


Pole Test for Side Impact

225_pole.jpg


Driver Front Passenger
100px.gif
100px.gif


Side Impact Driver
100px.gif
legend-adultoccupant.gif


Comments

The new 3-Series achieved five stars for protecting its adult occupants. Its passenger cell remained stable and protected all of its occupants well; the car achieved almost a maximum score in the frontal impact. An intelligent seat belt reminder is fitted for the driver and passenger. Child protection was good but pedestrian protection was very poor.


Here's the link.

http://www.euroncap.com/tests/bmw_3_series_2005/225.aspx


It is good to see the progress of technology over the years. Now we know why prices of cars (before tax and duties) go up as new models are rolled out.

So, the moral of the story for e36 lovers out there is, drive carefully. :rock:
 
thank you so much for sharing... Lee36328.. the article/post is a good reminder to be extra careful on the road, many think their BMW will safe life but sad.. it does not.

Happy Chinese New Year to all..
 
e36 in Evo Long Term Test

Most welcome Geoffrey Lee. Drive safe and have a good lunar new year.

Here's an update on Jethro Bovingdon's E36 M3 project car in Evo, Jan 2008.

Good to see an e36 still being put to good use in a car magazine at present day.

Quotable quotes :

"One reader, Tim Chandler, has stopped driving his 996 GT3 RS on the Ring and instead has an M3 GT very similar to mine. "


Some sliding tail action.

car_photo_233151_25.jpg



Serious drift, snow drift that is.

car_photo_233148_25.jpg



"A fully loaded e46 M3 CSL, supercharged to generate over 600bhp, lapped the full circuit in 7:22.9 – or almost exactly one minute quicker than my M3 managed on its first run!"

So, this e46 M3 CSL (7.22.9)...,

car_photo_233145_25.jpg



was faster than this...

paganizondafclubsport.jpg



a Pagani Zonda F Clubsport (7.28.82)

Full article here.

http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/evolongtermtests/213582/bmw_e36_m3.html

Wikipedia entry of Ring records : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordschleife_fastest_lap_times

Loaded e46 M3 CSL video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL7T9BD_Q3k

Pagani Zonda Clubsport video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APbrjvadVA0
 
Keeping cool in hot CNY weather

During the hot season, the cooling system of the e36 is put through a tough period.

It is important to regularly check the coolant level and monitor the cooling system for any tell-tale signs of leaks, like this one.

DSC_0419e.jpg


That messy situation is caused by a minor leak at the top, from the coolant hose. Now you see the benefit of the colouring in the coolant. Leaks are easier to detect.

The aircon may also stop working. A check at the fuse box will determine whether the health of the fan. If the fuse shorts out upon being replaced, the fan has died and will need replacing. Because the fan helps to direct air through the radiator, a dead fan will place additional stress on the cooling system.

DSC_0446ecopy.jpg


aircondblower.png


It is a tight fit, which means the radiator needs to come out.

DSC_0454e.jpg


The gearbox radiator sits right in front of the main radiator. Pipes connect the gearbox to the radiator at the bottom, using the gearbox oil itself as a coolant.

DSC_0463e.jpg


Transmissioncoolingsystem.png


Finally, fitted. The job will take about half a day.

CSC_0468e.jpg
 
em.. newbie here... wanna ask that the mechanical type radiator fan better of the electronic 1 better. and is it easy / costly to convert it to electronic type?
 
Have not studied this type of conversion before, so can't comment from experience.

Here's a feedback I found from the net.

------------------------------------------------------------------
"My Perma-cool 3000cfm 16" electric fan just broke on me recently. The fan blade unit became loose and started rubbing on the radiator.

Here are my findings;

- I did feel a HP increase with the electric fan kit. The car feels more responsive at higher RPMs
- I had an increase in engine/oil temps but nothing drastic maybe less than 10 degrees (fan shroud was kept and the fan bolted to the radiator)
- I had an increase in oil consumption due to hotter running temps.
- Less fan noise"
------------------------------------------------------------------

Bear in mind this was from the US. Msian weather is hotter.

Also, need to get a fan with the correct CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating, i.e. how much air (cubic feet) the fan moves per minute to ensure sufficient cooling under hot conditions, eg. traffic jam on a hot afternoon.

And it is advisable to have a fan shroud to distribute the air uniformly over the radiator. Otherwise, the cooling air only covers the area of the fan size instead of the entire radiator, further reducing the radiator cooling efficiency.
 
Nice informative thread :). Is the E36 TT still happening? Would love to be able to join you guys.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, it's been a while. An e36 mini-TT is due. Will gauge the interest and organize one soon.
 
Lee36328;308598 said:
Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, it's been a while. An e36 mini-TT is due. Will gauge the interest and organize one soon.

This sounds great, I am in for this if the time and venue fits mine.

:rock:
 
How long do brake discs last?

They say racing improves the breed. I wasn't exactly racing, but I did take the e36 to the track recently. And came back with surprising results.

As luck would have it, courtesy of 535i who had to drop out last minute (thanks dude), I found myself one fine Sunday in the beginner's group in Sepang, with an instructor next to me. I tried to ask him to leave politely, but no can do, beginner's group and all. Okay, I figured he will balance the car's weight anyways.

So, there I was, nicely whacking the curves on the Southern half-track, overtaking the newbies like a bully (sorry guys). There's no better way to spend a nice Sunday afternoon than taking your pride and joy to track. The camber plates worked like a charm (thanks Alvin), the car hugged the corners like unelected politicians hugging their defunct posts.

Just as I was settling down and having fun, they called us in with a red flag. No, I did not do anything wrong, the instructor reassured me. Some car blew its turbo it seems.

That's when I thought I had a flat. Kruk, kruk, kruk kruk, went my left rear wheel. Dammit.

This is what I saw.

DSC_0028.jpg


The rear left disc was clearly kaput.

I drove home at 40 kph. Man, I never knew the KLIA highway to Subang was such a long stretch. Normally it would take just 15 mins. This time, I had time to read Forza cover to cover. Twice.

So, it's off to my workshop the very next day, where I found more surprises.

Both left AND right discs were cracked. They must have cracked some time ago, since the right disc was not making any noise to alert me.

DSC_0048.jpg


Left.
DSC_0050.jpg


DSC_0052.jpg


Right.
DSC_0053.jpg

Note that the crack is on the inside, which you can't see unless you remove the disc.

I took out my records to find out when they were last changed. It was 167,600 kms ago. For an average driving pattern of 20,000 km per year, that's 8.4 years. Not too bad, all things considered.

So, here I am, a happy camper on 4 new brake discs and new brake pads all round. And you know how the car groans like an old man when you alight? That groaning is much reduced too. So, I would suggest if the car groans a bit too loudly, have your rear discs inspected.

If not for trackday, I would still be running on my old cracked discs without realising it. Thanks HPC, for organising a regular quality check on my car. Racing improves the breed indeed. :rock:
 
Can you share what new pad and disc you got ?
Still remain the factory caliper ?
Glad you find out the crack on the disc. It would be ugly if you were travelling far.
 
turbology;318171 said:
Can you share what new pad and disc you got ?
Still remain the factory caliper ?
Glad you find out the crack on the disc. It would be ugly if you were travelling far.

Sorry for the late reply dude.

Yes, still factory caliper, factory disc, and factory pad. I figured since I am still on factory-spec engine, no need to upgrade the stopping power.
 
Is there such a thing as a free mod?

The only certainties in life are death and taxes. And you can't "expense" death away, I don't care what fancy accountants you've got. Time takes its inexorable toll on all things flesh and metal.

And so it was, a few months ago, the old faithful lost its zip. One fine day, the 'feel' was gone from the throttle pedal. The surge that used to come with the first milimeter of travel now was reluctant to arrive until I put my foot down. Darn it.

So, several new parts later (spark plugs, voltage stablizers, Mobil oil), 50% of the problem was solved, gearchange smoothness improved noticeably, but the old verve wasn't quite there anymore. This is gonna get expensive. Cracked manifold? Exhaust leak? Gearbox issue? Will have to attend to it when my schedule lets up.

Then, the alarm starting acting up. When it rains, it pours. Nothing I did would shut the darn thing up. To get a good night's sleep for me and my neighbours, I had to yank the battery cable. That did the trick.

The next morning, I reconnected the battery, joined the parking lot they call the highway, and had a revelation. The car felt a fraction of its 11-year age. The low-end torque was smoother and creamier than the final scene of a more expensive dvd. Even the exhaust note sounded better. I was totally blown away.

Seems I have reset the ecu back to using the default fuel map, which the factory tunes to give more low-end torque. Read about this before, but haven't given it much thought until now.

The ecu, designed to adapt to your driving style, changes the map over time. As I was driving aggressively during some late night runs, it had tuned itself to give me more high-end torque, at the expense of low-end. So, it was great at top speed, and sucked in traffic.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal (see below), let it sit for about an hour (capacitors allow the ecu to hold values for a while, and it takes some time to go totally flat.)

Interesting quick mod. Best of all, it cost me zip. :rock:

" Battery Removal - Disconnecting and Reconnecting

Supertech, Brian#179, Andy #982,

  • Always, Yes Always disconnect the negative terminal first and ALWAYS, when reconnecting, connect the positive first. ANY Battery, Bike or Car.
  • You connect the positive terminal first so that if you slip when connecting the negative terminal, and touch your wrench (or screwdriver, or STEEL WATCH, so remove it. (ed) whatever you're using) between the terminal and the frame, you don't arc-weld your wrench to the battery, to the frame, etc.
  • If you connected the negative terminal first, then slipped and touched the positive terminal and the frame with your wrench, you'd complete a circuit (a short circuit - no resistance) and sparks would fly."
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/BatteryFAQ.htm#Battery Removal
 
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