e36 328 ownership experience

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Ya gah? Like that I kena potong already lah. Very unlikely from this fellow, but never can tell. Mechanic said repair defective unit also cost about the same as recon unit. Exactly how much did your sis pay for hers?

Hey Vince, Justin's BBS still on my E34 lah.
 
han2u;278534 said:
Ya gah? Like that I kena potong already lah. Very unlikely from this fellow, but never can tell. Mechanic said repair defective unit also cost about the same as recon unit. Exactly how much did your sis pay for hers?

Hey Vince, Justin's BBS still on my E34 lah.

Han2u,

Not necessarily kena potong. Getting a recond steering rack from the workshop is one thing. Getting a steering rack asis whereis from the chop shop is another.

Nowadays, very hard to get brand new steering rack. They are mostly rebuilt racks. Your price seems about right. The prices have gone up since I recall 1 year plus ago.
 
Thanks man. Still hanging around Taipan area ah? Do drop by @ Omok SS15.
 
Vibration hunting - harmonic resonance and damping

Symptoms
A vibration that is rpm-specific. Occurs at regular stepped intervals of the rpm, for example 1,250 rpm, 2,500 rpm, 3,750 rpm, 5,000 rpm and so forth.

1 x 1,250 rpm = 1,250 rpm
2 x 1,250 rpm = 2,500 rpm
3 x 1,250 rpm = 3,750 rpm
4 x 1,250 rpm = 5,000 rpm
Potential culprit
Resonance. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resonance

Wiki - In physics, resonance is the phenomenon of producing large amplitude of vibrations by a small periodic driving force. It is the tendency of a system to oscillate at maximum amplitude at a certain frequency. This frequency is known as the system's resonance frequency (or resonant frequency).
The affected parts
971_p.png

Diagram Item No. 1. AGGREGATE SUPPORT WITH OIL FILTER
Here's what it looks like broken.
IMG_2943.jpg

IMG_2944.jpg

IMG_2945.jpg

Potential Effects of Harmonic Resonance
The power steering pump is attached to the aggregate support shown above. The periodic pulses from the power steering pump and the engine (and to a lesser extent, other rotating parts such as alternator) can build upon themselves (resonate) and result in a level of vibration with sufficient amplitude (energy) to damage the aggregate support (shown above). With the cracked support, vibration from the power steering pump is increased resulting in increased resonance.

What it means to you : Excessive vibrations from this area may be mis-diagnosed as a faulty power-steering pump, resulting in a costly replacement that does not rectify the problem.

Other chassis components may also be broken as a result, for example the front axle support, shown below.
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Diagram Item No. 1. FRONT AXLE SUPPORT
In this example, the mounting points of the engine mount to the axle support has started to crack on the right and has completely failed on the left.
IMG_2939.jpg

Below : Complete failure of the left mounting point.
IMG_2937.jpg

Below : Cracks beginning to appear on the right mounting point.
IMG_2936.jpg

As a result, instead of being secured, there is free play where the engine mount bolts to the axle support. The engine mount cannot fully dampen the engine vibrations as intended and some vibration and noise filter into the passenger cabin.
Other related areas - Engine Vibration Damper
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Diagram Item No. 1. VIBRATION DAMPER
The function of the vibration damper is to dampen the natural harmonic resonance of the engine. If this damper is worn out, the engine will also resonate at specific frequency (rpm) intervals. This is another area to check when investigating engine vibrations.
So, the next time you feel your car is vibrating excessively, you may want to check out these areas.
 
Lee, you changed those parts in your ride? I was at Raymond's place twice but didn't get to bump into you. Thought you hang out there quite frequently :) I might be going there for oil change soon (or maybe will get it done somewhere near my place).
 
Lee,

U r the absolute E36 guru. Its people like u that keep me coming back to this forum.

Thanks.
 
Thank you for your kind, undeserved words, friend. Am just another car-mad bloke sharing information and experience.

Alternators - Bosch and Valeo

Many of our cars come with standard Bosch. The alternative currently available is from Valeo, a French supplier.

Here's a look at the two, both 140 amp. Bosch is on the left, and Valeo on the right.

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Note that the Valeo alternator has a different sized pulley. Make sure the pulley comes with it, or else the belt that fits the Bosch will not fit the Valeo.

View from the back.

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The alternator runs very hot. Check out the monster cooling fins on the valeo.

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Benefits of an alternator in good condition :

  1. better ignition - better throttle response
  2. no alternator 'hum'
  3. ICE sounds better
  4. even the auto gearbox will shift smoother, the 'kick' prevalent in older gearbox will be reduced or eliminated
 
The Valeo enclosure looks like not designed to disseminate heat effectively while depending on the fan in front to ventilate the heat. I personally prefer the Bosch unit over the Valeo.

By the way what's the price for each? Seriously, I won't buy brand new alternator because alternator from the chop shop also can last very long for a small fraction of the price. I think I can buy 10 chop shop alternators for the price of a brand new unit. Just different method of car maintenance.. :D
 
astroboy;281287 said:
T
By the way what's the price for each? Seriously, I won't buy brand new alternator because alternator from the chop shop also can last very long for a small fraction of the price. I think I can buy 10 chop shop alternators for the price of a brand new unit. Just different method of car maintenance.. :D

Hi Astroboy, sometimes buying 2nd hand alternators can depend on luck as well. I have experienced changing alternator for several cars like on an Alfa 155 Twin Spark, it last less than 2 months. Had to change it again and fortunately it was under warranty.

Most of the chop shop will give about 1 or max 2 month warranty for 2nd hand alternator. My personal preference is, if you can afford it, change to a new one especially for cars with additional electrical gadgets like HID and ICE. I changed my e46 alternator last year... changed brand new coz I was quoted rm2.5k for a 2nd hand with 1 month warranty...can not take that risk. If had to buy another 2nd hand after 1 month, might as well buy a new one la.

planta
 
Good and valid points brought up. If can afford it, go to BMW SC to get the job done there! Hassle free! and guaranteed original.

So many chop shop items are being refurbish, repacked and sold as new and its very difficult for a layman to tell, more so if you are not waiting at the workshop seeing the job done.

New BMW also got lemon ma... I rather pay the price of a lemon to get lemon than paying the price of durian but end up with lemon.. :D

Of course if the price not much different, then I know what to do la... That's why I end up with a brand new E90 mah.. :D

I bought a chop shop alternator before for my E36 318 (M) decades ago when mine jammed on me and melted the V-belt, and it only cost me RM250 siap pasang. Warranty? I dare not ask.. :D
 
astroboy;281287 said:
The Valeo enclosure looks like not designed to disseminate heat effectively while depending on the fan in front to ventilate the heat. I personally prefer the Bosch unit over the Valeo.

By the way what's the price for each? Seriously, I won't buy brand new alternator because alternator from the chop shop also can last very long for a small fraction of the price. I think I can buy 10 chop shop alternators for the price of a brand new unit. Just different method of car maintenance.. :D

Sharp eyes there AB.

I noticed the difference too, and was slightly concerned about the different design. Then I noticed it is meant to channel allow cooling air in from the front of the car (refer picture), not to dissipate heat.

DSC_00380038crop.jpg


Where dissipating heat is concerned, the cooling fans of the Valeo looks more effective.
 
Another decade of happy motoring with no worries of alternator failure... priceless!!

So how is the alternator la?? Plz share.. :D
 
Monitor Your Alternator's Health On The Digital Aircond Display

Press 'Auto' and Defrost simultaneously.
1-DSC_0107.jpg




You will see the display change to this.
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Press the minus '-' button. The left number will change to '12'.
3-DSC_0110.jpg



Press the minus '-' button again and the left number will change to '11'. This displays the charge from the alternator.
4-DSC_0106.jpg


A healthy alternator will show the charge to be 13.0 volts ('130'), as in this example. It may occasionally fluctuate to 135 or sometimes 125, but should settle around 130. A charge of 120-125 indicates a less-than-optimum alternator charge. At 110, the battery warning light will come on, indicating the battery is not being charged.


To restore the display, press the 'Auto' and Recirculate button.
5-DSC_0113.jpg



And the display will return to normal.
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Why Is Alternator Charging Output Important?

Many important processes in the car run on the charge from the alternator, including to name a few,
  1. combustion (firing of the spark plugs)
  2. auto gearbox shift
  3. lights
  4. sound system
  5. charging the battery
These elements affect your driving experience in the following ways.

Combustion depends on the electric spark plugs firing optimally, which also means the throttle response and your fuel consumption will improve if your alternator is in good shape.

Gearbox shifting can be view in two parts. First, the parameters are monitored to determine if a shift should occur. If yes, the shift is executed. Both steps involve sensors and solenoids.

"The computer uses sensors on the engine and transmission to detect such things as throttle position, vehicle speed, engine speed, engine load, brake pedal position, etc. to control exact shift points as well as how soft or firm the shift should be. Once the computer receives this information, it then sends signals to a solenoid pack inside the transmission. The solenoid pack contains several electrically controlled solenoids that redirect the fluid to the appropriate clutch pack or servo in order to control shifting. Computerized transmissions even learn your driving style and constantly adapt to it so that every shift is timed precisely when you would need it. "

http://www.familycar.com/Transmission.htm

And sensors and solenoids run on... you guessed it, electricity. So, determining the correct time to shift, and executing the shift smoothly, relies on a good healthy alternator.

That's why the Voltage Stabilizer is your best friend. Fluctuating voltage really screws up your car's ECU, along with everything else electrical. And if you are into ICE, you'll know how important a clean electrical signal is.

All the above reasons explain why I would personally prefer a new alternator.
 
Mr Lee, if Display # 11 is for alternator changing, could you share with us what the other 11 # represent? TQ
 
Hi Lee,

Thanks for the call and the enlightening exchange. Do keep in touch ... I'll make it a point to appear and post here a wee bit more often! Anyway, my ride is currently being worked on by my mech. The engine will be rebuilt over the next week or so. It'll be the tranny after the CNY holiday before we move on to the cosmetics and such. Since it's gonna be a keeper, mite as well spend some money and bring her up to speed. I'll keep you guys posted.

Cheers,
VaN.
 
Lee, very good info on the alternator... I also think the air scoop on top of the radiator is meant to channel cooler (unheated by radiator) air to the vicinity of the alternator, and the rotating fins of the alternator will be the one forcing the air through the coils and whatever inside the alternator.

Van, long time no hear from you... what is your car up to these days... engine rebuild? Wow...
 
Vincent Hor;281820 said:
Mr Lee, if Display # 11 is for alternator changing, could you share with us what the other 11 # represent? TQ

I recall coming across this list sometime ago. I must have it buried somewhere on my hard drive. Will dig around and see if I can find it again. I know #6 is rpm, and #7 is car speed (which shows our speedometer is actually quite optimistic), and some other more obscure readings. The reading for rpm and speed will move as you drive.

LCP;281851 said:
Lee, very good info on the alternator... I also think the air scoop on top of the radiator is meant to channel cooler (unheated by radiator) air to the vicinity of the alternator, and the rotating fins of the alternator will be the one forcing the air through the coils and whatever inside the alternator.

Van, long time no hear from you... what is your car up to these days... engine rebuild? Wow...

Seems the air scoop channels cool air from the front of the car all the way through the alternator. Now that's what I call a Cold Air Intake, ultimate. Whilst the rotating fan blades suck the air from the air intake through the alternator.

Vanquish;281834 said:
Hi Lee,

Thanks for the call and the enlightening exchange. Do keep in touch ... I'll make it a point to appear and post here a wee bit more often! Anyway, my ride is currently being worked on by my mech. The engine will be rebuilt over the next week or so. It'll be the tranny after the CNY holiday before we move on to the cosmetics and such. Since it's gonna be a keeper, mite as well spend some money and bring her up to speed. I'll keep you guys posted.

Cheers,
VaN.

Cool, Van. Good to see the original spirit is alive and well. Looks like your are planning a major rebuild of your car. Good on you. :top: Yes, these cars when brought up to condition are lovely and worth keeping.

Here's a recent pic after the Meguiar's Clinic, with the vandalised hood emblem restored. Recently succumbed and joined the carbon-fibre decoration brigade.

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When I can't sleep, taking pictures is a nice way to soothe the nerves.

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Quite lucky to get the lighting for this shot. Note the M-colours in the background.

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