Planning on buying e36 328 - convert to manual

  • Click here to become an Official Member of BMW Club Malaysia Download Form
2.93 la, not 2.97. I got one 2.79, need to try that out. but now looking for a 2.65, that will be nice.

pussy...ur e30 monsta vs the e28 godzilla, which one faster ar? i remember u took me for a spin first time near obermier, you put a RM100 bill on dash board and said I could keep it if I could grab it while u tekan gear 1,2 and 3. you kept the RM100 :p

pussy;658067 said:
on the 5 speed was a 2.97 and the 6 speed was a 3.15 or the 3.23(ori e36 3.0L m3 diff ratio)...

on the why the 5 speed i used the 2.97 not a 3.15 was the large torque 350NM ++ was good enough to pull on every gears and a 240km/h top speed.
Somemore, the ori e36 328i manual uses a 2.97 final drive...but the M3 5 speed ZF box used a 3.23 ratio, but can reach 270++km/h....aiya... that's slow la... there is soup up e28 manual with a 3.5L heart that's below 5.0sec.... it's always sleeping...then there's Ramsing's monster also...
 
tehyw;658119 said:
aiiih... good lah u all.. my car is 0-100 in 9sec... boo hoo..

Your car big and fat that's why so slow. Need a bigger heart :p
 
ramsing;658201 said:
2.93 la, not 2.97. I got one 2.79, need to try that out. but now looking for a 2.65, that will be nice.

pussy...ur e30 monsta vs the e28 godzilla, which one faster ar? i remember u took me for a spin first time near obermier, you put a RM100 bill on dash board and said I could keep it if I could grab it while u tekan gear 1,2 and 3. you kept the RM100 :p

wahh which e28 godzilla was it larrr .... so far i think that's the only e30 i've seen so far being one of the super fast one....
 
stateside the smaller engine guys (m42, 2500cc m50/m54) with a g250/240/220 are changing to zf box and keeping engine the same if increasing engine output.

Why? Durability. Motorsport+time= expensive ;p Just like taking girls to dinner.......

Clutch is much stronger torque rating, items go longer. Zf is most often higher torque spec'ed 5 speed trans by BMW, it is used in larger estate chassis and also M division for that reason.

There is a reason g250 and 220 are not as in demand stateside for e30 24v swaps as zf units, they don't last as long- Americans are hard on e30+24v hybrids!!!

Usually 2nd gear issues (g250 and 220).

The classic G260 may even be a better option box than the g220/250, it's syncromesh and design is seemingly durable, higher tq rating. Bmw used the g260 with m20, m30 in e32/34 chassis. Have seen g260 units with near 400,000km usage on road in Europe !!!! Very long term box unit.

Global E30 guys doing 24v dohc
swaps tend to prefer keeping the g260 and customizing the trans/shift linkage instead of going to g220/250, if in budget the zf 5 speed trans is the preferred item in this situation.


Some people here are going opposite idea though;

I know of a s54 (8,000rpm++ 300rwhp) car running a g220. It's a full race car where the weight difference means more to driver and team than durability.

The box has so far lived a season and half ..... :)

perhaps 25 kg weight savings from the g220 complete driveline substitution from zf 5 speed equivalent parts. If yours is a fly light car, 25kg matters!!!


this would not be suggested with a boosted car though, m42+low boost turbo really destroyed a g220+168mm......
 
wanganstyle;658972 said:
stateside the smaller engine guys (m42, 2500cc m50/m54) with a g250/240/220 are changing to zf box and keeping engine the same if increasing engine output.

Why? Durability. Motorsport+time= expensive ;p Just like taking girls to dinner.......

Clutch is much stronger torque rating, items go longer. Zf is most often higher torque spec'ed 5 speed trans by BMW, it is used in larger estate chassis and also M division for that reason.

There is a reason g250 and 220 are not as in demand stateside for e30 24v swaps as zf units, they don't last as long- Americans are hard on e30+24v hybrids!!!

Usually 2nd gear issues (g250 and 220).

The classic G260 may even be a better option box than the g220/250, it's syncromesh and design is seemingly durable, higher tq rating. Bmw used the g260 with m20, m30 in e32/34 chassis. Have seen g260 units with near 400,000km usage on road in Europe !!!! Very long term box unit.

Global E30 guys doing 24v dohc
swaps tend to prefer keeping the g260 and customizing the trans/shift linkage instead of going to g220/250, if in budget the zf 5 speed trans is the preferred item in this situation.


Some people here are going opposite idea though;

I know of a s54 (8,000rpm++ 300rwhp) car running a g220. It's a full race car where the weight difference means more to driver and team than durability.

The box has so far lived a season and half ..... :)

perhaps 25 kg weight savings from the g220 complete driveline substitution from zf 5 speed equivalent parts. If yours is a fly light car, 25kg matters!!!


this would not be suggested with a boosted car though, m42+low boost turbo really destroyed a g220+168mm......

Wow that is very educational. Thank you very much. I don't think I'm going to do much on the car. Just a manual conversion (a must!!) and probably some mod on the intake manifold (m50).

Though after I saw on Apiz's post the reason why M52 engine has smaller diameter than m50 is because they wanted to choke the air flow so that it improves the torque at lower rpm.

So I'm wondering whether any of the sifus here with M52b28 modded with m50 intake manifold dyno-ed their car recently? How is the torque rating at about 3-4k RPM?
 
in the M50 family of engines (and M60 also actually) OBD1 intake manifold is 40% larger flow volume, the early 92-95 model year engines have this manifold.

OBd2 intake manifold is revised for more low/mid power, it is to suit the later model (heavier body cars).

This is a style of tuning BMW and other engine builders employ to make a powerplant wider fit a range of chassis.

many people install M50 manifold on M52 and S52 here, I installed it on my S52 (M3 E36 USA).

you can reference dyno charts for this modification, many online and on TRM/Miller/shark injector etc websites. ECU chip tuning is suggested to make up for the difference in runner sizing, torque band is mechanically shifting up to suit the Horsepower equation when you change the runners from smaller->bigger style

comparing a factory spec e36 325 vs the 328i

gearbox ratios are both "close" ratio, 1:1 5th gear.

1st gear for g250 is 4.23, 1st in ZF SG320 is 4.2 - pretty much the same.
Tire size OEM spec for 325 is also smaller, usually 15" or 16" rims.
328 oem spec is 16" rims and for M-package 17" rims. These are a bit bigger diameter and heavier due to wider rubbers, wider 7.5/8.5J staggered rims.

heavier larger wheels = more difficult to move from standing.

325 final drive: 3.15
328 final drive: 2.93

- from this you can see that the larger displacement engine (300cc+) has a lower final drive ratio. It makes more torque so can push the taller gear

325 has 3.15 (easier to spin) ratio final drive to move car from standing (with 300cc less torque).

IF one was to use the M50 manifold on the 328 chassis car, the mechanical tune of M50 inlet will inevitably shift torque towards the higher RPM's (that is why you gain horsepower, as horsepower is created by holding torque above the 5252rpm constant in the math equation.


comparing the factory equipped 2 cars, the heavier equipped, larger engine, larger wheels taller gearing car would be at slight disadvantage if toque is lost on lower end. Harder to move it from stop, as its not OEM setup that way.

What is the best tuning solution if you would like to gain ~ 10-15hp on higher rpm 4500-7000 rpm zone?

1. M50 manifold
2. your choice of chip
3. 3.15 final drive swap to increase mechanical torque (to offset lost low range RPM engine torque)

*** if you plan on fitting 18" or larger rims with bigger rubber, you can consider a 3.23, 3.38, 3.46 final drive ratio- the rims increased diameter and extra tire weight will catch up...

Automatic 328i should have a 3.91 final drive, if you do not change this the engine rpm's @ expressway speed will be ridiculous (and poor fuel consumption). But very rapid acceleration like a rally car!. You would also do peg leg burnout everywhere (as automatic 328's do not have LSD spec'ed standard from factory)

If feel like leaving the 3.91 final drive alone, then you need to fit a 6 speed transmission (.83 overdrive); it matches the 3.91 very nice for sport use actually.

clovi5;659694 said:
Wow that is very educational. Thank you very much. I don't think I'm going to do much on the car. Just a manual conversion (a must!!) and probably some mod on the intake manifold (m50).

Though after I saw on Apiz's post the reason why M52 engine has smaller diameter than m50 is because they wanted to choke the air flow so that it improves the torque at lower rpm.

So I'm wondering whether any of the sifus here with M52b28 modded with m50 intake manifold dyno-ed their car recently? How is the torque rating at about 3-4k RPM?
 
1) Is it true that some M52 runs on OBD1 although it comes with OBD2 Manifolds originally?Specifically to our local models?
2) OBD1 connecting port is at the engine bay beside the battery terminal and OBD2 connecting port in the cabin under the driver side dash ??

Too much reading today..hehehe:4:
 
thanks for the info. Now im not sure what engine i have. its a 328. but howto check if its vanos or not? Its a 328 in an e30
 
Daniel E30;668181 said:
thanks for the info. Now im not sure what engine i have. its a 328. but howto check if its vanos or not? Its a 328 in an e30

I believe yours is a M52B28 Single Vanos
 
Daniel E30;668181 said:
thanks for the info. Now im not sure what engine i have. its a 328. but howto check if its vanos or not? Its a 328 in an e30

As far as i know, 328 only comes with m52 engine. So its definitely a single vanos. Unless you decided to drop in the m52b28tu in your e30..
 
Daniel E30;668860 said:
Any ready made configurated supercharger that fits this engine model in the market?

Yes plenty with lots of $$$ involved. There's one for sale from a forumer here. 8k I think.
 
Daniel E30;668860 said:
Any ready made configurated supercharger that fits this engine model in the market?
Blower for 24v swap into E30?

This is custom affair, no off the shelf will fit completely properly in my opinion for Severe duty reliability; even from a mount bracket prospective.

Many attempts at blower-ing 24v dohc swapped e30's Stateside, very few successful done -very few online photos even of them trying and failing.

History shows a small and wildly popular custom run of blower brackets for this fitament (24v e30) and I have seen about 0 results.

I have a client stateside with e30+3200cc 24v + AA supercharger++ @ 400rwhp and going for more... a pretty insane creation :)

turbo fit is cleaner, can be PNP and bolt on for e30 12v or 24v.

I feel a twinscrew/ and AA (HKS ROTEX) blower would be and is possible; BUT in my opinion from seeing successful cars globally a GT2830r/GT30R setup would be less cost and more reliable for the customer if twinscrew budget was invoked. Twinscrew fits OK, but will be very tight by brake booster and probably not suggested for street cars (as hydroboost or boosterless conversion would be required)

24v clearance and mounting of aux devices on the e30 body is already an issue, esp with current 24v engine mounting solutions.
 
blowers smowhers.....turbo FTW!

wanganstyle;669893 said:
Blower for 24v swap into E30?

This is custom affair, no off the shelf will fit completely properly in my opinion for Severe duty reliability; even from a mount bracket prospective.

Many attempts at blower-ing 24v dohc swapped e30's Stateside, very few successful done -very few online photos even of them trying and failing.

History shows a small and wildly popular custom run of blower brackets for this fitament (24v e30) and I have seen about 0 results.

I have a client stateside with e30+3200cc 24v + AA supercharger++ @ 400rwhp and going for more... a pretty insane creation :)

turbo fit is cleaner, can be PNP and bolt on for e30 12v or 24v.

I feel a twinscrew/ and AA (HKS ROTEX) blower would be and is possible; BUT in my opinion from seeing successful cars globally a GT2830r/GT30R setup would be less cost and more reliable for the customer if twinscrew budget was invoked. Twinscrew fits OK, but will be very tight by brake booster and probably not suggested for street cars (as hydroboost or boosterless conversion would be required)

24v clearance and mounting of aux devices on the e30 body is already an issue, esp with current 24v engine mounting solutions.
 
Top Bottom