SMG Share thread
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infinityKL
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after owning this machine for 3 years now, honestly im still kinda confused with all the hydraulic parts, pumps, actuator, accumulator etc...
as for not getting all gears in place, i have not encountered this, so cannot comment much.
as for jerks, it simply got better and better as i replaced new parts. but it still happens occasionally.
but i have to agree with you on point no.4, as things get hot underneath, i get sticky clutch feel, particularly when taking off in 2nd gear.. sluggish feel.
however...recently, my battery died naturally as the car was not used for about a month. after replacement of a new battery, to my surprise, all that tiny jerks and lazy clutch feel is all gone, now all the gears change smoothly with no jerks whatsoever. i cant feel a thing now...taking off in 2nd gear. try remove ur battery completely for a good 10 minutes and see if it helps. it didn't even feel so good after mspeed did the usual teaching process.
bro, did u also check if your Clutch is not going south? this also can cause other related parts to fail or wear faster.
oh ya, and what is this electro pump? will be great if you guys can spice up this smg thread with pictures.... thx
as for not getting all gears in place, i have not encountered this, so cannot comment much.
as for jerks, it simply got better and better as i replaced new parts. but it still happens occasionally.
but i have to agree with you on point no.4, as things get hot underneath, i get sticky clutch feel, particularly when taking off in 2nd gear.. sluggish feel.
however...recently, my battery died naturally as the car was not used for about a month. after replacement of a new battery, to my surprise, all that tiny jerks and lazy clutch feel is all gone, now all the gears change smoothly with no jerks whatsoever. i cant feel a thing now...taking off in 2nd gear. try remove ur battery completely for a good 10 minutes and see if it helps. it didn't even feel so good after mspeed did the usual teaching process.
bro, did u also check if your Clutch is not going south? this also can cause other related parts to fail or wear faster.
oh ya, and what is this electro pump? will be great if you guys can spice up this smg thread with pictures.... thx
infinityKL
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ok ok... i feel you bro... so i believe im just the lucky one... touch wood, hehe
manual da best, have a good weekend.
manual da best, have a good weekend.
ya have a good weekend! all...manual...yeahh..its the best! considering all the headache having to think "whats gonna fail next?"
ok...here goes how SMG actuation system works. things might get little confuse with pump hydraulic bla bla bla..
thanks bmwfans info for the picture, it shows how the pentosin (hydraulic fluid) been route/tube/hose.
the most bottom part under number 6 is actually the real pump that take pentosin from reservoir tank (under item 9). I called the pump electro hydraulic just because its been powered by 12V(electric) to pump hydraulic pentosin to accumulator (item 1 in below picture), creating hydraulic pressure that will kick the clutch actuator(below no 5), and shift actuator (right side of item 4). This accumulator will contains at least 35 bar and maximum 50bar of hydraulic pressure, so only the electro hydraulic pump is doing the pumping.
Some mech will call clutch actuator as clutch pump but it doesnt do pumping actually. That big metal hydraulic block on the left side is controlling the pressure from accumulator (using solenoid valve - item 10, 11 and 12 in below picture), once activated, will allow hydraulic pressure to push the piston inside of the clutch actuator.
Same for Shift actuator - 2 or maybe 3 solenoid valves been assigned to control to control the pressure going into that shift actuator.
So once this pressure inside the accumulator been used, of course there will be reduce of pressure and once it is lower than 30bar, ECU will power up the electro-hydraulic pump again to accumulate the pressure. Think of this accumulator as battery and it needs recharge. And it goes on and on, if the clutch is always using pressure and shifting somemore.
after the cycle complete, this hydraulic pressure will not return to accumulator but its been bleed back to the reservoir tank and waiting to be pumped again to the accumulator.
i give an example. When we start to engage C and as for a 1st gear:-
1. ECU will trigger Solenoid valve for clutch actuator and pressure inside acculumator will run to push the clutch actuator.
2. at the same time, solenoid valve for shift actuator will also be activated and allow the pressure goes in to kick the shift to the first gear.
3. Pressure will stay inside the clutch actuator until we hit the throttle.
4. Depending on what is throttle position feedback to ECU, ECU will trigger the solenoid discharged the hydraulic pressure to release the clutch accordingly.
5. Finally, the hydraulic will return to the reservoir tank.
anybody care for TT this weekend!?
Btw infinityKL, i got new clutch when i sent my car for clutch actuator seal kit change (cant afford new clutch actuator, RM4k worr). Ah wai said that the old clutch can t be used since it was spoiled/spilled with hydraulic.
Yeah...more spice... following picture is my sketch on schematic diagram - i post this on page 36-37 i cant remember.
Cheers and Have a good weekend!!!
ok...here goes how SMG actuation system works. things might get little confuse with pump hydraulic bla bla bla..
thanks bmwfans info for the picture, it shows how the pentosin (hydraulic fluid) been route/tube/hose.
the most bottom part under number 6 is actually the real pump that take pentosin from reservoir tank (under item 9). I called the pump electro hydraulic just because its been powered by 12V(electric) to pump hydraulic pentosin to accumulator (item 1 in below picture), creating hydraulic pressure that will kick the clutch actuator(below no 5), and shift actuator (right side of item 4). This accumulator will contains at least 35 bar and maximum 50bar of hydraulic pressure, so only the electro hydraulic pump is doing the pumping.
Some mech will call clutch actuator as clutch pump but it doesnt do pumping actually. That big metal hydraulic block on the left side is controlling the pressure from accumulator (using solenoid valve - item 10, 11 and 12 in below picture), once activated, will allow hydraulic pressure to push the piston inside of the clutch actuator.
Same for Shift actuator - 2 or maybe 3 solenoid valves been assigned to control to control the pressure going into that shift actuator.
So once this pressure inside the accumulator been used, of course there will be reduce of pressure and once it is lower than 30bar, ECU will power up the electro-hydraulic pump again to accumulate the pressure. Think of this accumulator as battery and it needs recharge. And it goes on and on, if the clutch is always using pressure and shifting somemore.
after the cycle complete, this hydraulic pressure will not return to accumulator but its been bleed back to the reservoir tank and waiting to be pumped again to the accumulator.
i give an example. When we start to engage C and as for a 1st gear:-
1. ECU will trigger Solenoid valve for clutch actuator and pressure inside acculumator will run to push the clutch actuator.
2. at the same time, solenoid valve for shift actuator will also be activated and allow the pressure goes in to kick the shift to the first gear.
3. Pressure will stay inside the clutch actuator until we hit the throttle.
4. Depending on what is throttle position feedback to ECU, ECU will trigger the solenoid discharged the hydraulic pressure to release the clutch accordingly.
5. Finally, the hydraulic will return to the reservoir tank.
anybody care for TT this weekend!?
Btw infinityKL, i got new clutch when i sent my car for clutch actuator seal kit change (cant afford new clutch actuator, RM4k worr). Ah wai said that the old clutch can t be used since it was spoiled/spilled with hydraulic.
Yeah...more spice... following picture is my sketch on schematic diagram - i post this on page 36-37 i cant remember.
Cheers and Have a good weekend!!!
B33mEr
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Guys ... check out the DIY write-up at e46fanatics. It's a good reference point for everyone :top:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=979825
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=979825
hi all,
today i hv new simptom. the R gear didn't engaged from N position. tried to off the engine and on back. still cannot engage the R gear. h/ever tried to engage the 1st gear and straight to R gear. it's work...!!!! don't know why. any idea? checked the pentosin level (a bit low). but no sign leaking undercarriage.
-nakabu-
today i hv new simptom. the R gear didn't engaged from N position. tried to off the engine and on back. still cannot engage the R gear. h/ever tried to engage the 1st gear and straight to R gear. it's work...!!!! don't know why. any idea? checked the pentosin level (a bit low). but no sign leaking undercarriage.
-nakabu-
infinityKL
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bro affazlee fixed the no reverse problem at BMWorld, some re programming i think ...
mine is only at cold start ....
mine is only at cold start ....
hi all...its been a miserable week for me. went to top up pentosin yesterday when the whinning sound of SMG hydraulic pump was too frequent. 2 second interval i guess. Ended up with an empty reservoir of that greeny oil. Went to Bomin and ask whether or not they want to do it for me and been booked next Monday of seal change out. Been ask around (thanks bro Beemer and Clavenk) and went through some reading posted by B33mer on DIY for seal change out.
So how many times more do we (SMG users) have to crack our head (or pocket to be exact) for the small (maybe inexpensive) seal change out (well workmanship drive the pricing). This has lead me to think to get a better performance seal (at least not for 8 months that the reservoir went dry).
Looking at the pictures (thanks B33mer for this useful picture in the earlier post) :-
View attachment 30193
item on the right side is actually the working seal against the pressure/leak. The other 2 might have just been a support for the ROD, also important but they are not causing the leaks. Correct me if I am wrong.
View attachment 30194
Piston Seal - Its a lip seal - Yesterday John (Bomin), show me a similar seal to this one but it is used for caliper pistons on brake application (works well against pressure). He is suggesting that he is going to take the actuator out, change only that particular seal, which he believe it will be available from seal supplier somewhere, (i believe it too).
And this is why i believe that should be available:-
View attachment 30195
Full catalogue (PARKER) at this link.
http://www.parker.com/literature/Engineered Polymer Systems/5340_2008.pdf
You can read through what it does - its a spring energized lip seal which i believe will be of better performance, works at better temperature range and of course better material (PTFE).
Well good luck to us for followings:-
1. Removing the gator - read that it has to be cracked to open.
2. Finding a right size of the third party lip seal.
Will let you guys know time to time!
So how many times more do we (SMG users) have to crack our head (or pocket to be exact) for the small (maybe inexpensive) seal change out (well workmanship drive the pricing). This has lead me to think to get a better performance seal (at least not for 8 months that the reservoir went dry).
Looking at the pictures (thanks B33mer for this useful picture in the earlier post) :-
View attachment 30193
item on the right side is actually the working seal against the pressure/leak. The other 2 might have just been a support for the ROD, also important but they are not causing the leaks. Correct me if I am wrong.
View attachment 30194
Piston Seal - Its a lip seal - Yesterday John (Bomin), show me a similar seal to this one but it is used for caliper pistons on brake application (works well against pressure). He is suggesting that he is going to take the actuator out, change only that particular seal, which he believe it will be available from seal supplier somewhere, (i believe it too).
And this is why i believe that should be available:-
View attachment 30195
Full catalogue (PARKER) at this link.
http://www.parker.com/literature/Engineered Polymer Systems/5340_2008.pdf
You can read through what it does - its a spring energized lip seal which i believe will be of better performance, works at better temperature range and of course better material (PTFE).
Well good luck to us for followings:-
1. Removing the gator - read that it has to be cracked to open.
2. Finding a right size of the third party lip seal.
Will let you guys know time to time!
