SMG Share thread
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This is my E46 gearbox.
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infinityKL
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redhybrid;843986 said:
helo everybody .. doing great the smg ...
2 weeks back for the 1st time whacked her up genting... all i can say is it was JOY
traffic up was quiet, roads were little wet tho from the rain earlier. coming down cruising as i had my lil girl on board.
surprisingly no brake dust when touch down. had an effortless drive, pushing thru the gears, the smg and inline 6 is a deadly combination hahaha
have a great weekend..
nice...its been awhile...almost decided to sell mine though as im getting more and more afraid to take it out. come bad traffic, my face turn pale, especially when it is hot out side. give it 15 minutes, and it feel like riding a bull. forgot the last time i changed the seal, clutch wasnt changed. no visible leakage to say that the clutch actuator went south.
gonna give it a last shot for clutch disc and a new battery.
well theoretically, as infinityKL said in one of the post that he changed the battery and suddenly the SMG works better. here's the theory - the hydraulic pressure will only be released to clutch actuator/tank once solenoid valve open. its kinda like bit by bit very fast, especially on releasing the clutch where the positioning the clutch is been done by the EGS. So, this solenoid is actually base on the effectiveness of current available in the system to energize magnetic coil for solenoid. and when it gets hot, the coil will not work at its best, solenoid will take a little bit of time to open, causing a delay in releasing the hydraulic pressure though the throttle reading has already needs the clutch to be release. and by that time, we have already push the gas pedal a bit deeper, boom! the clutch suddenly release full open....well, thats my theory..
so....in everybody opinion - the battery first or both in one shot?
- - - Updated - - -
nice...its been awhile...almost decided to sell mine though as im getting more and more afraid to take it out. come bad traffic, my face turn pale, especially when it is hot out side. give it 15 minutes, and it feel like riding a bull. forgot the last time i changed the seal, clutch wasnt changed. no visible leakage to say that the clutch actuator went south.
gonna give it a last shot for clutch disc and a new battery.
well theoretically, as infinityKL said in one of the post that he changed the battery and suddenly the SMG works better. here's the theory - the hydraulic pressure will only be released to clutch actuator/tank once solenoid valve open. its kinda like bit by bit very fast, especially on releasing the clutch where the positioning the clutch is been done by the EGS. So, this solenoid is actually base on the effectiveness of current available in the system to energize magnetic coil for solenoid. and when it gets hot, the coil will not work at its best, solenoid will take a little bit of time to open, causing a delay in releasing the hydraulic pressure though the throttle reading has already needs the clutch to be release. and by that time, we have already push the gas pedal a bit deeper, boom! the clutch suddenly release full open....well, thats my theory..
so....in everybody opinion - the battery first or both in one shot?
gonna give it a last shot for clutch disc and a new battery.
well theoretically, as infinityKL said in one of the post that he changed the battery and suddenly the SMG works better. here's the theory - the hydraulic pressure will only be released to clutch actuator/tank once solenoid valve open. its kinda like bit by bit very fast, especially on releasing the clutch where the positioning the clutch is been done by the EGS. So, this solenoid is actually base on the effectiveness of current available in the system to energize magnetic coil for solenoid. and when it gets hot, the coil will not work at its best, solenoid will take a little bit of time to open, causing a delay in releasing the hydraulic pressure though the throttle reading has already needs the clutch to be release. and by that time, we have already push the gas pedal a bit deeper, boom! the clutch suddenly release full open....well, thats my theory..
so....in everybody opinion - the battery first or both in one shot?
- - - Updated - - -
nice...its been awhile...almost decided to sell mine though as im getting more and more afraid to take it out. come bad traffic, my face turn pale, especially when it is hot out side. give it 15 minutes, and it feel like riding a bull. forgot the last time i changed the seal, clutch wasnt changed. no visible leakage to say that the clutch actuator went south.
gonna give it a last shot for clutch disc and a new battery.
well theoretically, as infinityKL said in one of the post that he changed the battery and suddenly the SMG works better. here's the theory - the hydraulic pressure will only be released to clutch actuator/tank once solenoid valve open. its kinda like bit by bit very fast, especially on releasing the clutch where the positioning the clutch is been done by the EGS. So, this solenoid is actually base on the effectiveness of current available in the system to energize magnetic coil for solenoid. and when it gets hot, the coil will not work at its best, solenoid will take a little bit of time to open, causing a delay in releasing the hydraulic pressure though the throttle reading has already needs the clutch to be release. and by that time, we have already push the gas pedal a bit deeper, boom! the clutch suddenly release full open....well, thats my theory..
so....in everybody opinion - the battery first or both in one shot?
infinityKL
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give the clutch a go bro ...
honestly, when all the smg related parts is in place, you will really appreciate the difference from a conventional autobox. for a lazy city prick like me, this is a perfect sports machine. haha.
after all this years, going up genting with a struggle on my e36 328 auto, it was simply superb paddling the 330 up hill, swift gear changes on sports mode, relaxed with not much foot work. your theory is somewhat right, as on hot days, there is a drag from take off but no jerks. me also planning to do a new clutch, as thats the only part i have not changed relating to the smg. as for the battery thingy, im not so sure as i feel its more like a memory store of driving style?? but give it a shot la ...
clutch, it should cost you 2k+ with labour... which shop do you frequent?
honestly, when all the smg related parts is in place, you will really appreciate the difference from a conventional autobox. for a lazy city prick like me, this is a perfect sports machine. haha.
after all this years, going up genting with a struggle on my e36 328 auto, it was simply superb paddling the 330 up hill, swift gear changes on sports mode, relaxed with not much foot work. your theory is somewhat right, as on hot days, there is a drag from take off but no jerks. me also planning to do a new clutch, as thats the only part i have not changed relating to the smg. as for the battery thingy, im not so sure as i feel its more like a memory store of driving style?? but give it a shot la ...
clutch, it should cost you 2k+ with labour... which shop do you frequent?
drag/delay from taking off is so much better....grrrr...have read somewhere that there is an upgrade/patch to EGS? No? have you performed that before? Thinking of this upgrade is somewhat changing the control logic from jerk to drag/delay....hehehehehee...
Last year July, changed clutch at AH Wai - And it makes no sense to change the clutch again. June this year I also changed the seal but not a seal that we got from the repair kit. I asked the mech to find any other option for seals and it looks better than standard. But still it doesnt solve jerking problem - no leaks found either. will post a picture later. And this morning - i leave my car at BOMIN at John suggest that he's going to test drive the car...do the final check bla bla bla...before i decided to give the clutch a go....
just wanted to confirm how do we now that the EGS is running on the latest version firmware....
grrrr...
- - - Updated - - -
drag/delay from taking off is so much better....grrrr...have read somewhere that there is an upgrade/patch to EGS? No? have you performed that before? Thinking of this upgrade is somewhat changing the control logic from jerk to drag/delay....hehehehehee...
Last year July, changed clutch at AH Wai - And it makes no sense to change the clutch again. June this year I also changed the seal but not a seal that we got from the repair kit. I asked the mech to find any other option for seals and it looks better than standard. But still it doesnt solve jerking problem - no leaks found either. will post a picture later. And this morning - i leave my car at BOMIN at John suggest that he's going to test drive the car...do the final check bla bla bla...before i decided to give the clutch a go....
just wanted to confirm how do we now that the EGS is running on the latest version firmware....
grrrr...
Last year July, changed clutch at AH Wai - And it makes no sense to change the clutch again. June this year I also changed the seal but not a seal that we got from the repair kit. I asked the mech to find any other option for seals and it looks better than standard. But still it doesnt solve jerking problem - no leaks found either. will post a picture later. And this morning - i leave my car at BOMIN at John suggest that he's going to test drive the car...do the final check bla bla bla...before i decided to give the clutch a go....
just wanted to confirm how do we now that the EGS is running on the latest version firmware....
grrrr...
- - - Updated - - -
drag/delay from taking off is so much better....grrrr...have read somewhere that there is an upgrade/patch to EGS? No? have you performed that before? Thinking of this upgrade is somewhat changing the control logic from jerk to drag/delay....hehehehehee...
Last year July, changed clutch at AH Wai - And it makes no sense to change the clutch again. June this year I also changed the seal but not a seal that we got from the repair kit. I asked the mech to find any other option for seals and it looks better than standard. But still it doesnt solve jerking problem - no leaks found either. will post a picture later. And this morning - i leave my car at BOMIN at John suggest that he's going to test drive the car...do the final check bla bla bla...before i decided to give the clutch a go....
just wanted to confirm how do we now that the EGS is running on the latest version firmware....
grrrr...
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=675959
Here is the update....
- - - Updated - - -
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=675959
Here is the update....
Here is the update....
- - - Updated - - -
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=675959
Here is the update....
satellite;850618 said:
I sold my flywheel but i still have a set of clutch with me, the shifter is original come with the car.
- - - Updated - - -
satellite;850618 said:
I sold my flywheel but i still have a set of clutch with me, the shifter is original come with the car.
Gear slip issue
Hi SMG kaki,
I've some issues with mine of late. From the previous thread, it seems that it's gear slip issue, how do i rectify this issue? Would changing of clutch kit solve the problem? Some times it's getting so bad that it can't move at all till reving it up to 3-4k rpm and when it move, it's over spinning.
Help needed.
clavenk;850777 said:
Hi SMG kaki,
I've some issues with mine of late. From the previous thread, it seems that it's gear slip issue, how do i rectify this issue? Would changing of clutch kit solve the problem? Some times it's getting so bad that it can't move at all till reving it up to 3-4k rpm and when it move, it's over spinning.
Help needed.
If its happen only when it gets hot...say after half and hour stuck in jam, Same problem as mine bro...no solution yet..going to take mine for firmware update at ingress..if it is still there, second is battery. Third is solenoid.
But if it is always from cold start, yes, check the clutch actuator...and change the clutch too.
- - - Updated - - -
If its happen only when it gets hot...say after half and hour stuck in jam, Same problem as mine bro...no solution yet..going to take mine for firmware update at ingress..if it is still there, second is battery. Third is solenoid.
But if it is always from cold start, yes, check the clutch actuator...and change the clutch too.
But if it is always from cold start, yes, check the clutch actuator...and change the clutch too.
- - - Updated - - -
If its happen only when it gets hot...say after half and hour stuck in jam, Same problem as mine bro...no solution yet..going to take mine for firmware update at ingress..if it is still there, second is battery. Third is solenoid.
But if it is always from cold start, yes, check the clutch actuator...and change the clutch too.
redhybrid;851017 said:
Sometimes it's from after driving for 5min from cold start( BTW I always warm up my car before driving it) and most of the time it's from getting stuck in traffic jam.
I suspect it's from the clutch as well, hence looking for one to replace. My car is has minor vibrating when in N, I suspect it's the flywheel. Battery was changed 3-4 months back, so don't think that is the problem.
What is selenoid?
a coil that can produce magnetic force when energize by current. this force required to open and close your valve allowing hydraulic pressure to push piston actuator. if the force is weak...theres delay energizing magnetic force. and a weak magnetic force from an energized coil resulted from high temperature increasing resistance of the coil, reducing the current at given voltage. thats why i want to change battery next if firmware update doesnt work. and finally if changing the battery does not work, i want to try to change the solenoid.
