SMG Share thread

  • Click here to become an Official Member of BMW Club Malaysia Download Form
sachseelan;689582 said:
Finally it broke, sat morning start car, rpm dancing till engine die.
Had to try few times wt more throttle till engine a bit warm.
Drove to mech, diagnostic - no fault codes. (still wondering why)
Anyway, we attcked the ICV straight away and true enuff it was jammed.
Gave it a good clean service. All good. Cold start shaking also gone.
Infact, the usual jerks at cold start gone.
Basically no more need of warm up, just start and go now.

Happy man

Glad to hear your cold start shakes has been solved :top: Which mech did you go to bro?
 
Its been more than 2 days now. After replacing the pressure accumulator the SMG unit seems to work pretty well without any fault light appearing despite some serious driving. Going to test it again later in Sepang and hope the car is back to good health!
 
sachseelan;689582 said:
Finally it broke, sat morning start car, rpm dancing till engine die.
Had to try few times wt more throttle till engine a bit warm.
Drove to mech, diagnostic - no fault codes. (still wondering why)
Anyway, we attcked the ICV straight away and true enuff it was jammed.
Gave it a good clean service. All good. Cold start shaking also gone.
Infact, the usual jerks at cold start gone.
Basically no more need of warm up, just start and go now.

Happy man


bro what's ICV? sorry noob question
 
Happy New Year bro Sach and Happy New Year to all SMG'ians ... May our SMG gives us continuous driving pleasures and less headache (though it's worth it lol)
 
Can anyone recommend a good workshop for engine rebuild? any idea how much will it gonna cost?
My problem, engine compression not same for some of the cyclinder.
 
clavenk;702470 said:
Can anyone recommend a good workshop for engine rebuild? any idea how much will it gonna cost?
My problem, engine compression not same for some of the cyclinder.

What are the compression values for cylinder 1-6? From what i gather it's normal to have a varying psi for each cylinder

Taken for e46fanatics.com:-
"There shouldn't be any difference in the compression between a ZHP / non ZHP they both have the same compression ratio. The biggest difference is longer duration camshafts.
A 330 (10.2:1 compression ratio) should be a little less than a 325 (10.5:1 compression ratio)

Looking in a Bentley Service manual it shows:
The compression test should show a minimum 10 - 11 bar, 142-156psi.
Max difference between cylinders 0.5 bar 7 PSI"
 
B33mEr;702493 said:
What are the compression values for cylinder 1-6? From what i gather it's normal to have a varying psi for each cylinder

Taken for e46fanatics.com:-
"There shouldn't be any difference in the compression between a ZHP / non ZHP they both have the same compression ratio. The biggest difference is longer duration camshafts.
A 330 (10.2:1 compression ratio) should be a little less than a 325 (10.5:1 compression ratio)

Looking in a Bentley Service manual it shows:
The compression test should show a minimum 10 - 11 bar, 142-156psi.
Max difference between cylinders 0.5 bar 7 PSI"


Heard the person who check for me, said like most of it is around 15 bar. but 1 or 2 cyclinder is at about 18-20 bar. I think is very abnormal. Very headache now. Feel like throwing a engine kosong to it than fixing it.
 
can i just throw a m54 b30 into it without change any ecu? just engine it self. What are the thing that i need to aware of? anyone know this?
 
dear sifus...really need help!

my car stuck at workshop. went there just for normal service, some engine gaskets for oil leaks, water pump and thermostat.

took d car yesterday, reached home, i got warning light on low water level, pop up the hood, tehre is steam coming out from vent nut housing, got crack. n today go again to change top radiator hose.....

now the problem - its when i reverse my car to leave the workshop. tititttttttittttt..... F€N appear s on dashboard i cant engage 1 gear.

restart the car...its ok...but not reverse gear....after a few trouble shooting with gt1 - no improvement n it gave error code 4FB4 - control unit internal fault.

jack up the car...there is visible leak. tried to topup the pentosin but it needs very little. run the gt1 again, clutch calibration and teach in. its ok for a bit....n just now the workshop called me it happen again...

ok for the forward gear.....cant engage reverse gear....

no visible leak at actuator..will go to the workshop tomorrow morning and advise him what to do...

please help.
 
redhybrid;707730 said:
dear sifus...really need help!

my car stuck at workshop. went there just for normal service, some engine gaskets for oil leaks, water pump and thermostat.

took d car yesterday, reached home, i got warning light on low water level, pop up the hood, tehre is steam coming out from vent nut housing, got crack. n today go again to change top radiator hose.....

now the problem - its when i reverse my car to leave the workshop. tititttttttittttt..... F€N appear s on dashboard i cant engage 1 gear.

restart the car...its ok...but not reverse gear....after a few trouble shooting with gt1 - no improvement n it gave error code 4FB4 - control unit internal fault.

jack up the car...there is visible leak. tried to topup the pentosin but it needs very little. run the gt1 again, clutch calibration and teach in. its ok for a bit....n just now the workshop called me it happen again...

ok for the forward gear.....cant engage reverse gear....

no visible leak at actuator..will go to the workshop tomorrow morning and advise him what to do...

please help.

Ok ... Try this and see if this works for reversing:

1) Engage the gear to 1st gear

2) From 1st gear quickly change the gear to 'R' without going into 'N' and the reverse gear should be able to engage.

When I had that problem my actuator was leaking and there was not enough hydraulic fluid/pressure to engage the reverse gear.

Let me know whether it works or not.

Result from Google:
http://www.bmwcca.org/forum/index.php?threads/smg-error-codes.7799/
 
beemer,

thanks! Anyway, i suspect my problem maybe worse until yesterday, what hav been done using gt1 is that depressurize hydraulic as if we bleed all the hydraulic out and pressurize again. run all calibration, teach in, and clutch characteristic. works fine until now.

as of goes into R from 1 quickly, i have experienced that before. anyway, which actuator is leaking? clutch or shift?

is it a must if we change the actuator, the clutch set needs to be changed as well..

thanks again beemer!
 
redhybrid;708096 said:
beemer,

thanks! Anyway, i suspect my problem maybe worse until yesterday, what hav been done using gt1 is that depressurize hydraulic as if we bleed all the hydraulic out and pressurize again. run all calibration, teach in, and clutch characteristic. works fine until now.

as of goes into R from 1 quickly, i have experienced that before. anyway, which actuator is leaking? clutch or shift?

is it a must if we change the actuator, the clutch set needs to be changed as well..

thanks again beemer!

It's the clutch actuator that is prone to leaking. You can just change the clutch actuator as the shift actuator rarely fails. The clutch and flywheel is designed to be use for at least 100k miles (at least 160k km) and some owners have even gone much higher before they change the clutch and flywheel. So the answer is no, you don't need to change the clutch and flywheel.

What's your current mileage? and which workshop did you send to for the above service?
 
mileage clock at 180k km. highside for a 2003 car. guess that the previous owner got the clutch changed, clutch actuator looks clean..everything looks neat underneath. maintained by company (first owner is company).

how do we know the clutch and flywheel is a gone case?

i have sent this car to bomin auto jln ipoh for a normal service, got the above problem when i just about to leave the workshop. john did his best to troubleshoot this one for me. 3 days now and no sign that its going to happen again.
 
redhybrid;708315 said:
mileage clock at 180k km. highside for a 2003 car. guess that the previous owner got the clutch changed, clutch actuator looks clean..everything looks neat underneath. maintained by company (first owner is company).

how do we know the clutch and flywheel is a gone case?

i have sent this car to bomin auto jln ipoh for a normal service, got the above problem when i just about to leave the workshop. john did his best to troubleshoot this one for me. 3 days now and no sign that its going to happen again.

As I haven't change my clutch yet i'm basing on feedback. Based on feedback it would be the clutch slipping when driving normally and when driving in an incline. It The symptoms have the same characteristic of a manual BMW ...
 
redhybrid;708328 said:
not yet experience any clutch slippage..

what is odometer reading now beemer?

Mine currently stands at 104k km. Hopefully the clutch can still last for another 80-100k :)
 
Top Bottom