e36 328 ownership experience

[Lee36328]

Bro Lamoo,

Thanks for your phone call. It was nice chatting with you.

I recall I posted the info before. Tried to use the "search" function to search my own thread, but it does not return results by posts, only by thread, so I could not find it.

Searching manually, found it finally. Here is the info you asked about, way back in page 26 of my thread, dated Jan 2008. Wow, time flies.

http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?1222-e36-328-ownership-experience/page26

Press 'Auto' and Defrost simultaneously.

You will see the display change to this.

Press the minus '-' button. The left number will change to '12'.

Press the minus '-' button again and the left number will change to '11'. This displays the charge from the alternator.

A healthy alternator will show the charge to be 13.0 volts ('130'), as in this example. It may occasionally fluctuate to 135 or sometimes 125, but should settle around 130. A charge of 120-125 indicates a less-than-optimum alternator charge. At 110, the battery warning light will come on, indicating the battery is not being charged.


To restore the display, press the 'Auto' and Recirculate button.

And the display will return to normal.

Why Is Alternator Charging Output Important?

Many important processes in the car run on the charge from the alternator, including to name a few,

1. combustion (firing of the spark plugs)
2. auto gearbox shift
3. lights
4. sound system
5. charging the battery

These elements affect your driving experience in the following ways.

Combustion depends on the electric spark plugs firing optimally, which also means the throttle response and your fuel consumption will improve if your alternator is in good shape.

Gearbox shifting can be view in two parts. First, the parameters are monitored to determine if a shift should occur. If yes, the shift is executed. Both steps involve sensors and solenoids.

"The computer uses sensors on the engine and transmission to detect such things as throttle position, vehicle speed, engine speed, engine load, brake pedal position, etc. to control exact shift points as well as how soft or firm the shift should be. Once the computer receives this information, it then sends signals to a solenoid pack inside the transmission. The solenoid pack contains several electrically controlled solenoids that redirect the fluid to the appropriate clutch pack or servo in order to control shifting. Computerized transmissions even learn your driving style and constantly adapt to it so that every shift is timed precisely when you would need it. "

http://www.familycar.com/Transmission.htm

And sensors and solenoids run on... you guessed it, electricity. So, determining the correct time to shift, and executing the shift smoothly, relies on a good healthy alternator.

That's why the Voltage Stabilizer is your best friend. Fluctuating voltage really screws up your car's ECU, along with everything else electrical. And if you are into ICE, you'll know how important a clean electrical signal is.

All the above reasons explain why I would personally prefer a new alternator.

 

[Lee36328]

Hi..morning dear sifus, last night after a long ride frm PD as I came to tbe toll booth..suddenly the engine rattle and came to a halt...I crank the ignition it started aand continue my ride but as I slowed down at a traffic light the prob happen again...luckily I reached home safely. ..hit the bunk..wake up this morning send my kid to school and the engine run smoothly like nothing is wrong...really need some help...this is not the first it happen..really appreciate your feedback. ..thanks....

Guys, what do you think? Chip in with your thoughts and experience and help our brother.

 

[Lee36328]

Bro engineburner, by the way, I do hope your nickname is not based on your real life experience....

Let me take a crack at it based on my humble limited experience.

We know two things:
1. it happens after a long drive, returning from PD, but not during short commute, sending kids to school, etc.
2. it stalled at the toll booth and at the traffic light

So, looks like it stalls after a long drive, when the car is idling.

Something is interfering with the car's ability to idle correctly, and the condition comes up only after a long drive. Long drive means heat. Heat causes things to expand. It also causes electric resistance to increase.

If there is a leak somewhere in your air intake system to the idle control valve, it may cause idle to be rough. If the leak is from a small crack, it affects the car only if the crack is expanded by heat. This is the most likely scenario and should be quite straight forward to detect and fix at your workshop.

Alternatively, check also the circuit from the throttle position sensor to the ecu, including the fuse. If there is a defect causing a resistance, which increases with heat, that could be the cause.

There is one more possibility, in the way the throttle position sensor sits in the throttle body and detects the movement of the throttle through a physical mechanism, but that is physical and less likely to be affected by heat.

I have to repeat, I'm no expert, best get the car checked at your workshop. Based on my humble experience, the above is from the top of my mind. I would guess the most likely is a small leak somewhere

Would love to hear ideas from my fellow e36 enthusiasts.

 

[Lee36328]

After searching this thread for the info Lamoo wanted, I realised a lot if info has been put into this thread over the years, and it's difficult to search via the search function. I am recalling some of the interesting content...

Timestamp 15-01-2008, 03:49 PM

Thank you for your kind, undeserved words, friend. Am just another car-mad bloke sharing information and experience.

Alternators - Bosch and Valeo

Many of our cars come with standard Bosch. The alternative currently available is from Valeo, a French supplier.

Here's a look at the two, both 140 amp. Bosch is on the left, and Valeo on the right.

Note that the Valeo alternator has a different sized pulley. Make sure the pulley comes with it, or else the belt that fits the Bosch will not fit the Valeo.

View from the back.

The alternator runs very hot. Check out the monster cooling fins on the valeo.

Benefits of an alternator in good condition :

1. better ignition - better throttle response
2. no alternator 'hum'
3. ICE sounds better
4. even the auto gearbox will shift smoother, the 'kick' prevalent in older gearbox will be reduced or eliminated

The above post was from Jan 2008, more than 5 years ago.

Update report on the alternator:

Happy to report the alternator is still doing fine, charging volt remains a strong 13 volt as indicated by the digital aircond display easter egg (reading number 11).

 

[Lee36328]

Here's another problem which was difficult to crack (pardon the pun) - vibration. From 2008, Jan.

10-01-2008, 06:21 PM

Symptoms

A vibration that is rpm-specific. Occurs at regular stepped intervals of the rpm, for example 1,250 rpm, 2,500 rpm, 3,750 rpm, 5,000 rpm and so forth.

1 x 1,250 rpm = 1,250 rpm
2 x 1,250 rpm = 2,500 rpm
3 x 1,250 rpm = 3,750 rpm
4 x 1,250 rpm = 5,000 rpm
​

Potential culprit

Resonance. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resonance

Wiki - In physics, resonance is the phenomenon of producing large amplitude of vibrations by a small periodic driving force. It is the tendency of a system to oscillate at maximum amplitude at a certain frequency. This frequency is known as the system's resonance frequency (or resonant frequency).
​

The affected parts

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Diagram Item No. 1. AGGREGATE SUPPORT WITH OIL FILTER
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Here's what it looks like broken.
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Potential Effects of Harmonic Resonance

The power steering pump is attached to the aggregate support shown above. The periodic pulses from the power steering pump and the engine (and to a lesser extent, other rotating parts such as alternator) can build upon themselves (resonate) and result in a level of vibration with sufficient amplitude (energy) to damage the aggregate support (shown above). With the cracked support, vibration from the power steering pump is increased resulting in increased resonance.

What it means to you : Excessive vibrations from this area may be mis-diagnosed as a faulty power-steering pump, resulting in a costly replacement that does not rectify the problem.

Other chassis components may also be broken as a result, for example the front axle support, shown below.
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Diagram Item No. 1. FRONT AXLE SUPPORT
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In this example, the mounting points of the engine mount to the axle support has started to crack on the right and has completely failed on the left.
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Below : Complete failure of the left mounting point.
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Below : Cracks beginning to appear on the right mounting point.
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As a result, instead of being secured, there is free play where the engine mount bolts to the axle support. The engine mount cannot fully dampen the engine vibrations as intended and some vibration and noise filter into the passenger cabin.
​

Other related areas - Engine Vibration Damper

Diagram Item No. 1. VIBRATION DAMPER
​

The function of the vibration damper is to dampen the natural harmonic resonance of the engine. If this damper is worn out, the engine will also resonate at specific frequency (rpm) intervals. This is another area to check when investigating engine vibrations.
​

So, the next time you feel your car is vibrating excessively, you may want to check out these areas.

Update:

During the recent refurbish, I finally managed to get my long shaft rebuilt as well, which was great because a new shaft would be wallet-busting.

And with that, I finally resolved the remaining issue of vibration, esp at high'ish speed.

It's a good feeling, the car remaining steady and smooth at any speed. Feels more planted and safer.

 

[jchan]

Here's another problem which was difficult to crack (pardon the pun) - vibration. From 2008, Jan.

10-01-2008, 06:21 PM



Update:

During the recent refurbish, I finally managed to get my long shaft rebuilt as well, which was great because a new shaft would be wallet-busting.

And with that, I finally resolved the remaining issue of vibration, esp at high'ish speed.

It's a good feeling, the car remaining steady and smooth at any speed. Feels more planted and safer.

Hi Bro, great thread ! Mind sharing the process of rebuilding the long shaft ? I might need to go through the process.

Thanks in advance

 

[Lee36328]

Hi Bro, great thread ! Mind sharing the process of rebuilding the long shaft ? I might need to go through the process.

Thanks in advance

No problem. I see you just got yourself an e36 325 to play with, congrats. If I may be of any service in sharing my experience w my e36, I'd be most happy to. Details in the PM.

Cheers.

 

[Lee36328]

The above post was from Jan 2008, more than 5 years ago.

Update report on the alternator:

Happy to report the alternator is still doing fine, charging volt remains a strong 13 volt as indicated by the digital aircond display easter egg (reading number 11).

Slight correction, the voltage hovers between 12.5 and 13 volt.

 

[Lee36328]

Aircond Mystery

My dad's old W124 loses to my car on all fronts except one - aircond. The old faithful E-class' aircond is so freezer-strong, and I've always admired it.

As we know, the e36 aircond is not its strong point. I've been living with it so long I've learnt to accept it.

But after refurbishing my car, the aircond got worse. Every now and then, the aircond is not cold. Upon checking, I need to top up the gas. Sometimes, the aircond is not cold, but the gas is still sufficient. Often, after a spirited run, the aircond is noticeably less cooling.

The symptoms puzzled me. What is the cause? Went to our famous aircond guru, Naidu of course, to get to the bottom of it once and for all.

Here's what he found out.

My 'O'-ring seals were leaking. That's how the gas was slowly escaping. But it was a micro leak, which is why sometimes I need to top up the gas, but not always. Naidu asked, how long was it in the paint shop? If the car was sitting idle for a long time, this kind of issue is common. Ah, I learnt something new again.

So what's the other reason the aircond was not cool, if not entirely the gas? Turned out my air re-circulation flap was not closing fully. It remained partially open. Naidu confirmed that at high speed, the wind can also push it open. Interesting discovery number 2.

Thirdly, my relay was faulty. The aircond fan should operate in two modes - low speed and high speed. Sometimes my fan was not moving at all, no speed, because of the faulty relay. I used to think that was normal. Discovery number 3.

Finally, the filter was really old and blocked. The air flow was restricted as a result.

So, changed the 'O' ring, temporarily sorted out the air re-circulation flaps, put in a new relay, popped in a new air filter.... and turned my car into a moving freezer.

All in all, took only slightly more than 2 hours to sort things out.

I was so impressed on the way back with how I was shivering, I gave Naidu a call to thank him profusely. Naidu's reputation is of course well-known. And well-deserved indeed.

Finally, I am no longer envious of the old Merc's aircond because I can freeze my rear-end off in mine just as well.

 

[Lee36328]

The Importance Of Rear Brakes Maintenance

Had a heart-rate jolting moment a couple of weeks back when I had to, lets say, reduce speed rather suddenly. Two things happened. The car nose-dived. The steering twisted in my hands. Not very reassuring.

Checked my brake discs, they were almost gone. Front discs were worn quite deeply and somewhat unevenly, which might explain the steering twitching under hard braking. Of particular interest is the rear brake disc, which had not been replaced for a couple of years! It's mean to be replaced every, what. 30k-40k km? More than due.

So, new discs all around, new pads, sent to Ah Ming for alignment as usual, and much better. Standard alignment outside does not cut it for me. Ah Ming knows what I want.

One recent evening on the highway, had brake to scrub off some speed while turning, I was surprised by a grabbing sensation from the rear, which pulled the entire car lower during braking instead of the front nose diving. Very new feeling. Car felt much more stable during braking as a result.

Rear discs wear out slower than front discs, and as a result, they are often somewhat ignored when it comes to maintenance. This episode taught me how important and beneficial it is to replace them on schedule.

So, for those of us who have not changed the rear brake discs for a while, why not check your maintenance record to see when it was last changed. Might be due, especially if it's covered 30k-40k km since then.

Enjoy your rides and drive safe, friends.

 

[Lee36328]

Thou shall not covet thy neighbor's....

There is a lot of useful truth in the Bible. Bear with me, this is car related...

“You shall not covet your neighbor's house; you shall not covet your neighbor's wife, or his male servant, or his female servant, or his ox, or his donkey, or anything that is your neighbor's.” (Exodus 20:17, ESV)

That phrase, "or anything that is your neighbor's", is full of meaning.

There I was, feeling pleased as punch and frankly quite proud of my ride, yes, Proverbs 16:18 warned me about that, when one evening, I had a chance to test drive a friend's M3.

I should have known I was about to walk smack into Exodus 20:17, but I was weak and gave into temptation. A short few minutes later, my car that I was so proud of, seemed to inadequate by comparison, and my mind was buzzing with new projects. Add power. Reduce weight. Lower the CG. Convert to manual. Put in LSD. Buzz... buzz... buzz...

What figuratively fried my brains was the e92 M3, with carbon fibre roof, and Akrapovic titanium exhaust. Which before this I have never heard of, nevermind know how to spell. I had to Google it. And oh, did I forget to mention, it was manual? A good old stick shift. Short throw of course.

It was nice to see that familiar 3-pedal configuration in the footwell.

Ah, the clutch, been a while since we were in touch,
Still the memory is fresh, as I engage your synchromesh,
Slick, slick, the shift went into gear, how I have missed you my dear
Together the V8 we shall uncork, in full fury and torque.

It was that good, made me write an ode to it. No paddle paddle shifting, just the good old stick. And what a car.

4 litre v8, no turbo, light weight, (did I mention the exhaust was titanium?), low cg because of the carbon fibre roof, and a surprisingly friendly gearbox. A lot of power, goes without saying, but very approachable, and happy to trundle about in town at city speeds despite all that power. And when you have some space in front of you, shift down, flex the right foot while relaxing the left (am glad I still remember how to drive manual), and just feel the machine try to rip the tarmac off.

After that morphine-shot-to-the-vein experience, jumping into my car and driving it suddenly seemed so.... wah! why is my car so heavy? gear change so sluggish? body roll so much? Ha ha, guess I asked for it.

And then of course, my good friend offered it to me, somewhere down the line when he gets bored with it. I fired up my Excel to quickly confirm that I cannot afford it, not now nor in the near future. Not without incurring a massive loan for the next 7-9 years at the car loan interest rates.

Brings me a new insight into the meaning of Exodus 20:17. "Thou shall not covet... anything that is your neighbour's..." Sigh... yes, I know, I know. I should have known better.

 

[Lee36328]

Something like this.

 

[Lee36328]

My brothers and fellow enthusiasts, warning, some racun below.

The Sep 2013 issue of the Performance BMW magazine has a Buying and Tuning section on BMW e36 328, which contains a ton of mod ideas. Highly informative. But proceed at your own (racun) risk... he he he.

 

[Khairul85]

Haha,I have one beautiful E36 328i br igt nk let go...bt better simpan,hutang pun xde maa..

 

[Lee36328]

Haha,I have one beautiful E36 328i br igt nk let go...bt better simpan,hutang pun xde maa..

A wise decision bro.

 

[JFT63]

Haha,I have one beautiful E36 328i br igt nk let go...bt better simpan,hutang pun xde maa..

Good dcision bro, a good unit like yours is hard to come by..

 

[JFT63]

Haha,I have one beautiful E36 328i br igt nk let go...bt better simpan,hutang pun xde maa..

Good dcision bro, a good unit like yours is hard to come by..

 

[casper909]

What happened to your black projector headlights from Taiwan? You gave it back to get the current ones?

 

[Lee36328]

What happened to your black projector headlights from Taiwan? You gave it back to get the current ones?

Still with me, if u're interested.

 

[mizhan]

can't help it.. you guys make me miss her







-RIP-