1st oil change for E9x

[turbology]

cannot claim on the warranty because you did not follow the manufacturer recommendation to "run in" the engine properly.

The combustion engine cannot defy the law of physic. :rock:

As you said, "recommendation", not rule or user's term. You don't sign anything.
Nothing to do with warranty. Who knows anyway ? Is not that they have GPS tracking

Good thing you bring out "laws of physic". What law of physic have anything to do if this ?
Jarance, since I bring out the "unconventional" topic, I will as well do it again. You might find this "unconventional" and get a kick with it.
1. Do you know "sparks" do not actually ignite the combustion in engine ?
2. 90% of engine wear happen when you start the car. Yes, but do you know if has nothing to do with lubrication (lack of oil when engine cold)?

Have fun. I am done here... hehehe

 

[jarance]

As you said, "recommendation", not rule or user's term. You don't sign anything.
Nothing to do with warranty. Who knows anyway ? Is not that they have GPS tracking

Good thing you bring out "laws of physic". What law of physic have anything to do if this ?
Jarance, since I bring out the "unconventional" topic, I will as well do it again. You might find this "unconventional" and get a kick with it.
1. Do you know "sparks" do not actually ignite the combustion in engine ?
2. 90% of engine wear happen when you start the car. Yes, but do you know if has nothing to do with lubrication (lack of oil when engine cold)?

Have fun. I am done here... hehehe

1. yes, it is the compression aided by the sparks
2. yes, because the viscosity of oil have not reach its optimum operating temperature and the oil pump have not splash and coated the moving parts with oil film.

I maybe wrong but what do I know.. I am not even a mechanical engineer.

 

[astroboy]

The hard break-in process is actually scientifically explainable and it has everything to do with physic. It is a much better way to break-in an engine than using daily office commuting trips for break-in purposes..

If you read the article carefully, u will understand what the author is trying to tell u. He did not ask you to push into the red line on first run and allow cooling down period before subsequent runs... its a set of calculated increasing rev zone and intervals.. I would call it the ideal way of break-in an engine, which little can follow due to lack of the right road condition... To learn new things, you must first unlearn..

Give me the right "condition", it is actually my preferred way for break-in!

 

[turbology]

1. yes, it is the compression aided by the sparks
2. yes, because the viscosity of oil have not reach its optimum operating temperature and the oil pump have not splash and coated the moving parts with oil film.

I maybe wrong but what do I know.. I am not even a mechanical engineer.

1. No. The sparks don't start the "fire". Compression has nothing to do with this, or it will be call a "ping"
2. It has very little to do with "coating the moving parts" or viscosity.

Don't worry. I am not a mechanical engineer either.

 

[AlexNg]

tell us tell us

 

[jarance]

yes do enlighten us. maybe the combustion engine can be fired without spark plug same like a diesel engine..

 

[XXX]

through my experience the breakin in method as put up by ab and turbology holds some water...I have driven cars by owners who go by the book..compared to those who dont go by the book...the car feels more powerful and smoother.
I have on 2 occasions experienced this, when I had a Kembara and now a Avanzza, New cars then. My those 2 cars seem so much different when compared to similiar models owned by my friends who go by the book....and this is not only what I feel, owners of the same model also feel it to...they will ask me what modifications I have done when I didnt do any.

I think that is one of the reason why some manufacturers do a pre break in, so that those who dont actually break in the car properly will not find themselves with a 'Bad' engine...this is my personal assumption.

 

[astroboy]

Yeh!!! one more vote for "hard" break-in..

Seriously, the "hard" break-in does not mean you do it HARD the first time.. understand what u are doing, lots of common sense involve.. I wouldn't say its easy and recommended to all. If you are not sure, stick to the book!

 

[don Macho]

I was informed that its an software error. pls take it to d service ctr to check. My fren's car had d same issue.

 

[astroboy]

Was at ENEOS last weekend. Saw Blitz Fully Synthetic got offer at RM130.. but its SL rated. The ENEOS sales assistant recommended me Q8 RM159. Bought a bottle standing by to pour in my E90 when she hit 5k km soon..

The Q8 is SM rated and bearing a BMW "seal" at the back.. I think can pakai gua..

Grade: ACEA A3/B3/B4, API SM/CF, MB 229.3, GM LL-025b,VW 502.00, 505.00 505.01

 

[AlexNg]

the actual oil used is Shell Helix Ultra AB 5W-30

it exceeds: API, ACEA, SH/CF, A3/B3/B4-98

its specs is according to: BMW - Longlife 01, Mercedes Benz - MB 229.5, VW - 502.00/505.00/503.01(Audi)

so i think should be alright gua... hehe...

 

[astroboy]

The Q8 Excel is 5W-40, so not correct lor!! dunno they carry the Q8 Special or not.. that's 5W-30..

 

[AlexNg]

5W-30 is the correct specs ma. hehe... -40 is slightly heavier

 

[astroboy]

5W-30 is the correct specs ma. hehe... -40 is slightly heavier

So I add "THINNER" lor..

I called up ENEOS, they only carry Q8 Techno 5W-30 at RM42/L but that one is SL rated as opposed to SM for both the Q8 Special 5W-30 and Q8 Excel 5W-40..

Looks like I have no choice but to stick to Q8 Excel.. Hope it wouldn't harm my engine..

 

[AlexNg]

def won't harm unless its recycled oil la. hhahaa....

next time u will be sure to get the right oil!

 

[astroboy]

Been wondering what is "the right oil".. ??!!

It should be SM rated with ACEA, MB229.31, BMW LL04 and of course 5W-30... what option do we have... ??

 

[turbology]

weight 40 is actually better for Malaysia weather. I will even go for weight 50.
The viscocity for weight 5w-30 is too low for shear protection. At 100c, Shell Helix Ultra 5w-30 oil viscosity is

 

[astroboy]

I manage to find this:

The American Petroleum Institute, API, and Society of Automotive Engineers, SAE, have rated engine oil performance over the years. We have seen the ratings go from SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, SL with SM to follow. SI and SK were eliminated as they are used by other businesses. There are over 3 dozen tests that oil now must pass in order to make the next higher rating. The tests are defined by the American Society for Testing and Materials, ASTM. Some tests have progressed to a zero tolerance level. For example there can be no sticking of any piston rings any more. I will compare the SL rated oil to the previous SJ oil in a few categories. For simplicity I will skip the units of measurement:


.......S J........S L......

.......30........20......maximum cam plus lifter wear
........9.........7.8.....sludge build up
........5.........8.9.....varnish rating (more is better)
.......60.......45.......high temperature deposits
.......17.......10.......high temperature volatility

Other categories include: Resistance to rust, resistance to foaming, resistance to oil consumption, homogeneity and miscibility, flow reduction with varying amounts of absorbed moisture, gelation index and others.

As one can see just going from the previous SJ to the current SL rating is a significant improvement. I cannot wait to get the upcoming SM oil into my cars.


See: American Society for Testing and Materials- www.astm.org
........Society of Automotive Engineers- www.sae.org
........American Petroleum Institute- www.api.org

Anybody has more of the above test standards to pass the different ratings? SM standard should be interesting as its the latest.. I lazy to research..

The sludge index reduce a lot from SJ to SL... SM should be much better.. and the SH rated Helix as mentioned by Alex is 3 generation old.. That's why AB cars all have sludge problems..

Oopss.... don't sue me, I am a poor man.. cabutzzz.........

 

[meinauto]

weight 40 is actually better for Malaysia weather. I will even go for weight 50.
The viscocity for weight 5w-30 is too low for shear protection. At 100c, Shell Helix Ultra 5w-30 oil viscosity is

 

[E46Fanatic]

I would personally stick with 5w30, maybe venture into 40 (depending on which brand. Castrol 5W30 eg is quite a heavy 30 oil) but definitely not 50. Also shear protection has got nothing to do with viscosity. For shear what you should be looking at is HTHS rating and also the TBN no after running in the oil

BTW, all ACEA3 oils (long drain) need to have HTHS above 3.5 (if I am not mistaken)

My 2 cents

So... which oil do u recommend?