1st oil change for E9x

[astroboy]

So SI, looks like u paid for the oil replacement because if follow SA specified interval under the BSRI maintenance package for 6 potter, first oil change is 10k km mah! and subsequent oil change is a lot more than 16k km.. ??

How come u can bring your own minyak? AB allow customer to bring own oil meh? Looks like we have a lot of things to chat in the coming drinking session.. :smokin:

 

[southisland]

So SI, looks like u paid for the oil replacement because if follow SA specified interval under the BSRI maintenance package for 6 potter, first oil change is 10k km mah! and subsequent oil change is a lot more than 16k km.. ??

How come u can bring your own minyak? AB allow customer to bring own oil meh? Looks like we have a lot of things to chat in the coming drinking session.. :smokin:

no lah astro...i brought to outside workshop and bought my Q8 oil from Euenos.i thought if i based on goin for AB oil change at 24000km then i just divide into equal intervals of every 8000km.no point saving for engine oil...car will perform longer lor

 

[BlackE90]

Bro SI u have PM...pls check ur PM...URGENT..!!

Sorry guys, hijacked the thread....coz SI doesn't realised he has PM...

 

[turbology]

1. European cars engine manufacturing process has improved to a stage where break-in oil change is no longer needed. Dunno how true le...

There is no exact answer.
New filteration might able to catch all metal flake from new engines.

But, if I bought a new car (or overhaul new engine).
1. Drive it as hard as I could first 100km.
2. Drain and replace engine oil, oil filter.
3. Use regular oil (not synthetic)
4. Dive it hard. Go through several heat cycles, and replace oil at 1000km.
5. Drain and replace engine oil, oil filter, and transmission oil(manual).
6. Use Synthetic oil for every oil change after this.

Make sure your oil meet MB229.3 spec, or LL-01 approved, if you want to have extended oil change interval.

 

[Schwepps]

But, if I bought a new car (or overhaul new engine).
1. Drive it as hard as I could first 100km.
2. Drain and replace engine oil, oil filter.
3. Use regular oil (not synthetic)
4. Dive it hard. Go through several heat cycles, and replace oil at 1000km.
5. Drain and replace engine oil, oil filter, and transmission oil(manual).

Uhhhh...ahem...why?? :stupid:

 

[danc]

I think that school of thought is "hard" break-in approach, which people believe gives better engine performance. I for one won't do it or buy into that approach.

 

[turbology]

Uhhhh...ahem...why?? :stupid:

try google.com

 

[Schwepps]

No thanks buddy! I wouldn't want to purposely screw up the engine, tyres, brakes, suspension and gearbox of a new car. :smokin:

 

[turbology]

Purposely screw up ? lol.
If you follow "quick piston ring break-in", engine will actually perform better and last longer. True for all new 4-stroke engines. So does tranny and breaks.
The whole idea of break-in an engine, is to make sure the piston seal up good with cylinder wall. And the first few hundred KM is important for the break-in.

 

[AlexNg]

yeayea...

my fren has done this to his car, a 4 piston car.

he claims better mileage, and more power from his car though it is not even 5000km yet.

 

[jarance]

There is no exact answer.
New filteration might able to catch all metal flake from new engines.

But, if I bought a new car (or overhaul new engine).
1. Drive it as hard as I could first 100km.
2. Drain and replace engine oil, oil filter.
3. Use regular oil (not synthetic)
4. Dive it hard. Go through several heat cycles, and replace oil at 1000km.
5. Drain and replace engine oil, oil filter, and transmission oil(manual).
6. Use Synthetic oil for every oil change after this.

Make sure your oil meet MB229.3 spec, or LL-01 approved, if you want to have extended oil change interval.

dude, this is a very uncoventional way.. have you ever try it before on any of your rides.

 

[turbology]

Yes. Yes. and Yes.
It is unconventional, untraditional, and very controversial.

 

[jarance]

Yes. Yes. and Yes.
It is unconventional, untraditional, and very controversial.

bro, have you ever try this unconventional, untraditional, and very controversial method before?

 

[redbaron]

dude, this is a very uncoventional way.. have you ever try it before on any of your rides.

It is personal choice bro. What ever it is the matted which is posted by turbology works for sure.

 

[astroboy]

Yes. Yes. and Yes.
It is unconventional, untraditional, and very controversial.

Those who are interested to find out more on the "untraditional" break in... read this:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[AlexNg]

anybody does this instead of the normal 100kph / 4k rpm restraint method?

 

[astroboy]

Normal break in is limited to no more 160kph.. not 100kph.. I think many E90 have not even crossed 160kph in their life.. or have not kick down in their life.. or have not go to MS mode in their life..

 

[turbology]

160kph is probably for drivetrain.
Powertrain only need in 2nd gear. No harm going for 3rd either

Oh, forgot to mention. Replace differential fluid too.

 

[astroboy]

160kph is probably for drivetrain.
Powertrain only need in 2nd gear. No harm going for 3rd either

Oh, forgot to mention. Replace differential fluid too.

My E90 user manual specifically mention the condition for break in.

1. Period: 2000km
2. RPM: no more than 4.5k (I think... forget d.. )
3. Speed: not exceeding 160kph
4. No force kick down
5. No DS or MS mode..

best part is no mentioning of draining of beak in fluid or filter.. :top: :stupid:

 

[turbology]

Great. You can read manual.
I guess the manual also tell you to bring back Authorized BMW center so they can charge your more with labours and parts. Yay !