HID 55W vs 35W

[eddiefiola]

sorry, i'm still using rm100 nokia, no camera.......

not much difference lah, just change the projectors only..........

photos needed if let say, u retrofit projectors into a reflector headlights, example, retrofit projector into perdana v6 or toyota vios or honda city headlights......in these cases, pictures might tell how u design the settings.......

u want to see how people retrofit projectors, u can see this website......
http://satugaprojector.blogspot.com...-max=2011-01-01T00:00:00+08:00&max-results=36

however, those guys above use projectors they got from their supplier in taiwan. i prefer to use original projectors from certain cars eg vw golf, lexus, acura tsx, proton waja etc etc........n retrofit into the e39.........

u can also use e60 or e46 bi-xenon projectors into ur e39, so that u can get high beam from ur current h7 bulb and from hid bulb........ it's personal choice lah.......

 

[eddiefiola]

aangavatar, don't listen to ppl saying using 55w hid will melt the wire lah etc etc....

no problems using 55w hid, the ballast is different from the 35w hid........

difference between 55 (or 50W, depending on brand) hid's and 35W hid's is the same difference between 50W halogen bulbs and 80W halogen bulbs. They're brighter, a little hotter.........


no matter what, in general, heat emanating from the 55w bulb is the same regardless of the source, halogen bulb, hid bulb, plasma bulb etc etc........

 

[jarance]

I finally tested the HID at home, using size 7 (0.2mm) wire and a 5 ohm car fuse to connect the HID set from the battery, battery was fully charged.
FYI The HID I got is a 50W HID not 55W as i mentioned earlier, discover my mistake during testing.
I have purposely use small wire and fuse just to see if the wire will melt or the fuse will blow as many has suggested for using the 50w HID, I have tested for a total of 4 hours, in between I stop to have the battery charge.
AND I can't feel the heat generated from the small wire (by touching), so no way it is going to melt our car's wire which I believe should be at least size 25-30. The 5 ohm car fuse did not blow either.
The light is at least 30% brighter than the 35W I just bought (for comparison and may use for fog later).
AND the conclusion:
Comment that the 50W HID will melt the wire in the long run or it generated heat way beyond the 35 w / halogen light or how it will damage the LCM or fuse?, it's a MYTH!
I will start my project this week end and picture it for all to see.

what is a 5 ohms fuse? Do you mean a 5 amp fuse?

What is the in rush current and running current for your 50W ballast. btw, taking a supply from a battery is different from taking a supply from the alternator. battery 12VDC, alternator + battery 13 to 14.5 VDC.

btw, what the kelvin rating of the 35W HID as compare to the 50W HID.
I am surprise that you can tell the difference of 30% by looking directly at the HID light. Honestly, I wouldn't do that. i.e looking directly at the HID source. It just like looking at the sun without eye protection.
Try to get a Lux meter to measure the brightness.

BTW, I dont think anybody say that the cables would melt if you use 55W HID. Most car are design to use 55W halogen bulb so the current or ampere for HID and Halogen bulb should be the same. The problem of cable melting is when you change the bulb to 110W.

 

[JKP]

Hi all, this could be relevant...

Some people out there just aren't aware of the dangers with wiring HID straight off your existing oem wiring. Should a relay be used to power HID, yes and always needs to be used. Why you ask perhaps? Your oem halogen equiped car was never designed or intended from the manufacturer to use or run high voltage/high current/ high amperage HID ballasts. Ballast draw a imense amount of amps upon start-up and could very seriosuly damage your wiring and not just at where its connected. We are talking serious damage to fuse boxes, ecu's, or worse could short and cause fires on very old cars that even have a hard enough time trying to power halogen. The reason why is, that when the ballast "demand" power, your car has to supply it from somewhere. Lets say its tapped into your oem headlight wire ok. Now you power up the ballasts, the draw current from your wiring, your wiring might not be up to the task so its needs help, it searches for a source and before you know it, you've now weakend not only one source but two now just to try and supply the ballast good clean power. This is why a relay harness is needed. A relay harness gets its power straight from the battery via relays. These relays are then wired to go to your ballasts now.
source - sr20-forum.com

Furthermore as the wires get old they oxidise and built resistance.

 

[jarance]

JKP, my original HID does not have any relay as mentioned from the source SR20 forum.

 

[JKP]

JKP, my original HID does not have any relay as mentioned from the source SR20 forum.

Hi Jarance,

My E39 does not come with HID and if I get an original Hella HID headlamps, is it better to fix a relay as advised in the SR20 forum?

Also noticed, on the E39 with M54 engine, the diameter of the wire to the headlamps are slightly thicker than the ones on the M52 engine.

Any advise is appreciated.

 

[jarance]

Hi Jarance,

My E39 does not come with HID and if I get an original Hella HID headlamps, is it better to fix a relay as advised in the SR20 forum?

Also noticed, on the E39 with M54 engine, the diameter of the wire to the headlamps are slightly thicker than the ones on the M52 engine.

Any advise is appreciated.

It is definitely better to fix a relay to do the switching. However, problem is that you would most probably get a "LIGHT CHECK" alarm on your dash board unless you do some additional circuit to cancel the alarm. This is because you would most probably use 1 relay to power up 2 HID ballast. Some people cheat the system by connecting a resistor on the other lamp.

I am not sure Hella have the CANBus compatible. Better to do some R&D before proceeding.

 

[eddiefiola]

i've never used relay for my hid since 2001.

on my e39, 'light check' will appear, but will go off after about 8 minutes......... can't be bothered, as long as i can see the road damn clear, good enough for me......

 

[kokwei9035]

sorry, i'm still using rm100 nokia, no camera.......

not much difference lah, just change the projectors only..........

photos needed if let say, u retrofit projectors into a reflector headlights, example, retrofit projector into perdana v6 or toyota vios or honda city headlights......in these cases, pictures might tell how u design the settings.......

u want to see how people retrofit projectors, u can see this website......
http://satugaprojector.blogspot.com...-max=2011-01-01T00:00:00+08:00&max-results=36

however, those guys above use projectors they got from their supplier in taiwan. i prefer to use original projectors from certain cars eg vw golf, lexus, acura tsx, proton waja etc etc........n retrofit into the e39.........

u can also use e60 or e46 bi-xenon projectors into ur e39, so that u can get high beam from ur current h7 bulb and from hid bulb........ it's personal choice lah.......

hi there eddiefiola...

modified my highbeam area to projector type...but unfortunately, becos I also changed to Xenon, thus my hi-beam light sacrafied(i unable to flash the front vehicle since then). since u mentioned that use e60 or e46 bi-xenon projector type can get high beam from current H7 bukb and from HID bulb, so how to start with this acessories? thank u.:top:

 

[eddiefiola]

kokwei,

i assume yours is e39. if u want original bmw projectors, u need to find e60 or e46 projectors. find the bi-xenon ones. then just plug n play.......if bi-xenon, u need to tap the high beam wire into the bi-xenon projector, so that the solenoid can function. if u don't understand, most accessory shops can do the wiring for u.

if u use bi-xenon e60 or e46 projectors, both come with d2s socket. so, ur high beam will be from d2s bulb, not h7 bulbs........
and if ur high beam bulb on the inner side of the headlights is working, then u can get high beam from hid n halogen bulbs. understand?

there are also e60 n e46 single beam projector aka not bi-xenon------> don't buy this one if u want bi-xenon function....

try your search at kedai potong, ebay, internet, etc........difficult to get but u never know ur luck...... or buy new e60 headlights n open it up just to get the projectors :65:

if you want aftermarket e39 projector from taiwan, u can contact the guy from this website: http://www.satugaprojector.blogspot.com/
he sells e39, e46 projectors, u can choose whether u want bi-xenon or not......all u need is just solenoid to control the shield inside the projector.

i've tried the e39 taiwan projectors, i do not like the light spread. brighter than original hella e39 projectors, but not as bright as proton waja projectors.....

ur choice, there are original projectors from certain cars n there are taiwan projectors.......don't just take my words, go n check them out.......

compare the brightness, light spread on the road (most people ignore this), between original n taiwan.......at the end of the day, it's personal choice.........hope this helps......

*if u plan to retrofit, buy the aluminium adjusters, coz u don't want to keep on opening up ur headlights in the future to change the adjusters......

 

[aangavatar]

Finally spare some time to install the HID kit, decided to do further test this morning though i don't think it necessary after the assurance from eddiefiola but just for the knowledge, car was left idle and u can see that voltage is around 14V, I have the same set up as b4 using the 5 A fuse for test, FYI, the fuse remain intact, probably with high rev, fuse might blow, i don't know, i will try tonight. Test for 15 min only

 

[aangavatar]

lux test

next test using the Lux meter:
1. with osram night breaker =534
2.with light off =163 (morning)
3.with 50w HID = 1422

 

[aangavatar]

Final Picture of installation

Finally the picture of the 50W HID set up............. damp, i heard about this problem from the forum, the bulb out indicator is out, well not a big a problem, I will think of a circuit to counter this when I m free next wk.

 

[aangavatar]

Tested the HID on the trip from Kuantan to KL, reached Karak around 1930, it was dark already, even though i have tilted the lamp lower just to make sure it doesn't shine on the incoming cars but the lamp is still bright, driving on the winding karak highway at night was real easy for the 1st time, i am very happy.

 

[aangavatar]

hi guys,
sorry for the delay, been outstation a lot, here is the photo of the light and my cheap invention for the relay to overcome bulb out error, i have solder the resistor inside the osram relay and a fuse just in case.

 

[jarance]

hi guys,
sorry for the delay, been outstation a lot, here is the photo of the light and my cheap invention for the relay to overcome bulb out error, i have solder the resistor inside the osram relay and a fuse just in case.

bro, I sure a lot people would be interested to know the value of the resistor and rating.

 

[Replay]

aangavatar,

Where did you buy your 50 watt ballast? I did a couple of rounds of sunway and nada, found some on ebay but would prefer to get it locally.

 

[skinhead]

bro, I sure a lot people would be interested to know the value of the resistor and rating.

jarance,

1ohm 1/2w resistor will do the work if the lights is not on. on my e39, it will fry the resistor once i turn on the lights...

 

[jarance]

jarance,

1ohm 1/2w resistor will do the work if the lights is not on. on my e39, it will fry the resistor once i turn on the lights...

SH, why choose this value if it fried up when you turn on the headlight?

 

[skinhead]

SH, why choose this value if it fried up when you turn on the headlight?

its more for testing purpose. it works if u dont turn on the lights. if u mount it with 5 pin relay, it will fool the system the moment the key is turn on. so u hv the solution when the lights is turn on ????