SMG Share thread

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clavenk

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I found 1 smg thread not active anymore, due to owner sold off his car. So decided to start SMG thread for all the SMG owner to share on everything. e.g maintainance, workshop good with SMG, TT session for SMG owners.By the way, i just got my SMG 1 month ago. Having lots of problem on the car. Now in hospital(i mean workshop repairs car shaking when cruising above 80 kmh)Beside, my car jerk when pickup at 500rpm-1k rpm. beside that the car will only move after 1-2 second press on accelerator(which previous smg thread everyone saying is normal for smg.)Calling all smg owner!!!
 
Here's what's a new actuator look like :D

Note: This was done 2 years ago


B33MER;4048640 said:
My car was diagnosed as having an actuator leak few weeks ago. Got the parts and being installed as we speak. The cost of these parts are about USD1,000 ... thank god for warranty programs :thumbup: :bigpimp:

Clutch Actuator
SDC12089.jpg


Shift Actuator
SDC12085.jpg


The hose (which i'm paying for it )
SDC12086.jpg


Screws
SDC12087.jpg


SDC12088.jpg


The box :D

SDC12090.jpg
 
My old actuator taken out from the car ...

B33MER;4714228 said:
Hi guys :hi:, it's been a while since i posted anything useful to the board hehehe :D Anyways i've finally gotten my old parts back from the shop that change my actuator ... the reason they're holding it for a while is for the claim payment from my insurance company ... Anyways on to the pics :D

The old parts ...
SDC13945.jpg


This what cause the failure ... a simple inexpensive O-Ring rubber that cause so much grief to SSG owners :mad:
SDC13946.jpg


SDC13958.jpg



The PCB board that is attach to the clutch actuator
SDC13955.jpg


SDC13954.jpg


SDC13956.jpg


SDC13947.jpg


SDC13953.jpg


SDC13951.jpg


The Shifting Actuator ... Nothing wrong with this part but it seems that BMW decided you can't have one without the other :tsk: hence the jack up price :thumbdwn:

SDC13948.jpg


SDC13949.jpg


SDC13957.jpg


Interestingly the SSG clutch actuator looks very similar to a manual version which cost much less:
smolck;4717372 said:
Here you go.....
DSC00932.jpg



There are a few more info which i will post sometime later this week.
 
B33mEr , are you saying my problem of engine jerk when 500-1k rpm is because of actuator? u facing the same problem before? can share more on your problem. How you fix it? and any other part need to take care of? In total how much you spend for. Now feel damn sad driving when stuck in the jam . The more jam the more jerk i will encounter. SAD
 
i smoked my clutch yday... err i think...

waiting at a traffic light, quite a steep hill, was lazy to use handbrake... so i just used the throttle to keep the car at standstill... pufff, car was smoking(white) from under carriage, smoke showed up after i was holding throttle for about a minute... just drove off... all good

anyone experience this? my clutch going south?
 
BTW, a very silly question.

Can i just went into AB/ Sapura and ask them to quote a price without intention to fix. cause i need to estimate the cost first.. before giving them to fix at the moment... very poor now. pls help
 
clavenk;596405 said:
B33mEr , are you saying my problem of engine jerk when 500-1k rpm is because of actuator? u facing the same problem before? can share more on your problem. How you fix it? and any other part need to take care of? In total how much you spend for. Now feel damn sad driving when stuck in the jam . The more jam the more jerk i will encounter. SAD

I'm just sharing what i know bro since you state that this thread is for everything related to SMG i.e. repository on everything SMG ... The pics i posted will give some idea to SMG owners on what the actuators look like.

On your problem it's been covered before in your previous thread. Did you go to a mech that have GT1? Have you done SMG teaching-in? Have you reset your adaptation values?
 
sachseelan;596412 said:
i smoked my clutch yday... err i think...

waiting at a traffic light, quite a steep hill, was lazy to use handbrake... so i just used the throttle to keep the car at standstill... pufff, car was smoking(white) from under carriage, smoke showed up after i was holding throttle for about a minute... just drove off... all good

anyone experience this? my clutch going south?

Were you on 1st or 2nd gear bro when drove off? I don't recommend you doing that as it is similar to a half clutch, the clutch disc might have glazed as a result and will affect the flywheel too in the long run if you do it often. The alternative way would be using your left foot to hold the brake when in a steep hill.
 
hell yeah im never gonna do that again.
i was on 1st... yes b33mer, i have been doing a lot of the left footwork, being lazy gave it a try..
but leaving it at 1st with no throttle is ok right(not on hill)? is this also stress to clutch or less stress to actuator?

tq tq
 
Italian parts? They must be using the same tech as the Ferrari and Alfa Romeo boxes.
 
sachseelan;596723 said:
hell yeah im never gonna do that again.
i was on 1st... yes b33mer, i have been doing a lot of the left footwork, being lazy gave it a try..
but leaving it at 1st with no throttle is ok right(not on hill)? is this also stress to clutch or less stress to actuator?

tq tq

Yup it's ok to leave it on 1st as it will not stress the clutch cause unlike an auto it does not engage until you press the accelerator pedal.

mizhan;596725 said:
Italian parts? They must be using the same tech as the Ferrari and Alfa Romeo boxes.

Yup it's made by Magneti Marelli with some variations respectively ...
 
B33mEr;596614 said:
I'm just sharing what i know bro since you state that this thread is for everything related to SMG i.e. repository on everything SMG ... The pics i posted will give some idea to SMG owners on what the actuators look like.

On your problem it's been covered before in your previous thread. Did you go to a mech that have GT1? Have you done SMG teaching-in? Have you reset your adaptation values?

1) Did you go to a mech that have GT1?
Claven: no havent, my car is still fixing on shaking when crusing above 80kmh. After this will bring to a work shop having GT 1.
2) Have you done SMG teaching-in?
Claven: ya, edi used to it with manual shifting or paddleshift. Now not using C mode anymore.
3) Have you reset your adaptation values?
Claven: What do you mean by reset my adaptation values?
 
it is best to sent it back to autobavaria

from my experience, it's the cheapest way to maintain your car.
unless you are a car expert yourself.

those so called pro workshop never did the job nicely (most of them)
and they are the best liar to tell you that AB parts are more expensive, which you may found out that it isnt(go get a quote)
 
Below are the repair estimates from Sapura BMW back then in 2009. Not sure if AB or IA have increase the price or not.

Labour Charges Amount

1 To replace hydraulic actuator (transmission removed) RM 180.00
2 To remove and installing gearbox RM 936.00


Spart Parts

1 Hydraulic actuator RM 4,146.64
2 Gearbox RMFD RM 24,993.75
3 Torx screw RM 28.50
5 Torx screw RM 8.52
 
B33mEr;596914 said:
Below are the repair estimates from Sapura BMW back then in 2009. Not sure if AB or IA have increase the price or not.

Labour Charges Amount

1 To replace hydraulic actuator (transmission removed) RM 180.00
2 To remove and installing gearbox RM 936.00


Spart Parts

1 Hydraulic actuator RM 4,146.64
2 Gearbox RMFD RM 24,993.75
3 Torx screw RM 28.50
5 Torx screw RM 8.52

-.-"" faint.
which mean if gearbox no problem, only actuator + clutch + labor is about +- rm8k! OMG. look like im in deep shit.. lol
 
that was about the price a "pro shop" outside of the dealer qoute me.
with no warranty.
 
clavenk;596865 said:
1) Did you go to a mech that have GT1?
Claven: no havent, my car is still fixing on shaking when crusing above 80kmh. After this will bring to a work shop having GT 1.
2) Have you done SMG teaching-in?
Claven: ya, edi used to it with manual shifting or paddleshift. Now not using C mode anymore.
3) Have you reset your adaptation values?
Claven: What do you mean by reset my adaptation values?

BMW car system keeps all sort of adaptation values from throttle positioning, gearbox adaptation (for auto and SMG), fueling and etc from your driving style or from a table stored in the DME ... Resetting it may improve your driving experience as a whole.

Below are the procedures for resetting the throttle adaptation:-

I actually just found this out yesterday, and i am not sure if everyone knows about this already. Anyways if you dont this will make your car faster.

All you do is get in your car turn the key to the second on position, but don’t turn your engine on. Keep it in that position for 10 seconds. Then turn your key to the off position for another 10 seconds without taking the key out. Then turn your car on and it is all done.

Basically what it is doing is resetting BMW's adaptation settings. BMW has that thing that adapts to the way you drive. Even if you drive fast it seems as though it slows the car down. I did it to my car and it made a huge difference, and i drive fast every time i get out of my school. Anyways give it a try and tell me how it goes.


M54 EDK Throttle Adaptation Procedure Model:
All vehicles which have a M54 or MS43 control unit.
Complaint:
Once a new engine control module or a new EDK unit has been fitted, it is imperative that the electronic throttle control adaptation is reset. If this process is not performed the vehicle will not run, or will run in fail-safe mode.
Remedy:
If the vehicle begins to run in fail-safe mode, or does not start at all, then replace the DME or EDK then:
Turn on the ignition for 10 seconds, it is not necessary to crank or start the engine.
Turn the ignition off for 10 seconds.
Start the engine.

More info:-
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=54763&highlight=fuel+adaptation
 
I googled some thread on teaching how to reset SMG. Did anyone tried it before? Is it working on all SMG? or only work on SMG with drivelogic?

You should have your foot off the pedal when performing an SMG reset.

1. 45-60mph
2. Neutral, and let off
3. Pull both pedals for 3 seconds - let go
4. Put SMG back into D (should end up in 4th, if not no big deal)
5. Allow the car to go into gear long enough for the RPM to be steady (2-3 sec.)
6. Drive.

i tot once u free the gear to N . U wont be able to change it back to D/C mode without stepping on your brake? no?
 
I tried that method too but seems like not working also.
About to get my car back . Hope everything is back to original
 
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