Service Interval for E90..
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There's different between 320 and 325 services interval and the 325 u'll have to ask the rest of sifu here...
E90 320 (Under free services 3yrs/60,000km package)
First services : 30,000
You can push the OBC button up or down (on your signal control) to "service info" and push the button at the top of the signal control... it'll show all the part services time or milleage... If not, when you start the car, the orange meter will show the remaining milleage for oil change as well.
I change my engine oil when my milleage reach 10,000km and paid at my own. You'll need to wait until the meter show you "Services DUE" only BMW will give you the free services.
E90 320 (Under free services 3yrs/60,000km package)
First services : 30,000
You can push the OBC button up or down (on your signal control) to "service info" and push the button at the top of the signal control... it'll show all the part services time or milleage... If not, when you start the car, the orange meter will show the remaining milleage for oil change as well.
I change my engine oil when my milleage reach 10,000km and paid at my own. You'll need to wait until the meter show you "Services DUE" only BMW will give you the free services.
I did it in AB Glenmarie. Cant' remember the exact cost but below RM500. Initially I thot first services shld be 25,000km but when I bring my car there when the milleage show 25,000 and they refused to do it cos they can only claim the free services from BMW when the obc shown "Services Due"... and my remaining oil change is showing another 5,000. So, I assume the services interval is 30,000.
Not very sure what sort of engine oil they change for me, shld be the recommend brand for the car. The fuel consuption also go significant higher after 20,000 km...
below 20,000 km
Full tank can go upto 650km
after 25,000 km
Full tank only 520km
PS: Remember to tell them not to reset ur OBC...
Not very sure what sort of engine oil they change for me, shld be the recommend brand for the car. The fuel consuption also go significant higher after 20,000 km...
below 20,000 km
Full tank can go upto 650km
after 25,000 km
Full tank only 520km
PS: Remember to tell them not to reset ur OBC...
anxious
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I just spoke to a friend of mine in Penang who owns an E90 320i.
When her car reached 1 yr, she took her car to AB Pg for service and was told to come back when her car reached 25000km.
She pointed out that the manual said 25000km or 1 year but the SC refused to budge citing "new policy".
Apparently after she wrote in to KL, the SC called her in for her "free service".
Although I do not own an E90, I feel that this issue should be taken up by the club officially. If the service manual says the service interval is 25000km or 1 year, the SC must honour it.
Otherwise there is no point having a 3year/60000km free service package when the SC avoid servicing the car when due.
I know the manual for E36 clearly states that the car must be serviced at least one a year nothwithstanding low mileage!
I dont think technology has advanced so much that service can be prolonged over that 1 year period.
In fact in the long run it may work against AB as poorly maintained BMWs may give the cars a bad name and potential customers may shun the make.
So committee, I think this is a cause worth taking up!
When her car reached 1 yr, she took her car to AB Pg for service and was told to come back when her car reached 25000km.
She pointed out that the manual said 25000km or 1 year but the SC refused to budge citing "new policy".
Apparently after she wrote in to KL, the SC called her in for her "free service".
Although I do not own an E90, I feel that this issue should be taken up by the club officially. If the service manual says the service interval is 25000km or 1 year, the SC must honour it.
Otherwise there is no point having a 3year/60000km free service package when the SC avoid servicing the car when due.
I know the manual for E36 clearly states that the car must be serviced at least one a year nothwithstanding low mileage!
I dont think technology has advanced so much that service can be prolonged over that 1 year period.
In fact in the long run it may work against AB as poorly maintained BMWs may give the cars a bad name and potential customers may shun the make.
So committee, I think this is a cause worth taking up!
Juan Powerblow
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Sometimes I wonder how the SC can be so stooopid in the face of clear documentation to dispel their misconduct! BTW, the balance mileage due for service is shown when you start your car. It's displayed on your dash for a few seconds after you start your car. In AB Segambut, I had 1,700 kms before service fell due but cos my schedule can get quite hectic unexpectantly, they didn't raise any issues on giving me early servicing under Service Inclusive. I thot this was just standard practice.
GHS
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OK as far as I know, we have another similar thread as below for everybody's information:
Engine oil change vs BMW service inclusive
http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14514
Let me share a similar experience. My E90 320i SE has been with me since Feb '07. Mileage is over 13,000km. Last week noticed that the OBC was prompting me to top-up the engine oil. So it was sent to the dealer for engine oil top-up, and my dad managed to convince them to provide the top-up FOC.
However, this week I noticed that the engine oil level has already started to drop! IMHO, a new car's engine oil level should not drop so drastically. I asked the guys at the SC and as expected the response was far from ideal: they said "it's normal".
One more thing that I'm quite puzzled is why they offer the engine oil change at 25,000 km when they know very well that in our M'sian weather the engine oil can't withstand that kind of torture...
I plan to make some calls to the BMW M'sia Hotline to follow up on the issue of the engine oil level drop. Anybody who has BMW email contacts in Malaysia and the global HQ kindly PM me pls. Thx a lot!
Engine oil change vs BMW service inclusive
http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14514
Let me share a similar experience. My E90 320i SE has been with me since Feb '07. Mileage is over 13,000km. Last week noticed that the OBC was prompting me to top-up the engine oil. So it was sent to the dealer for engine oil top-up, and my dad managed to convince them to provide the top-up FOC.
However, this week I noticed that the engine oil level has already started to drop! IMHO, a new car's engine oil level should not drop so drastically. I asked the guys at the SC and as expected the response was far from ideal: they said "it's normal".
One more thing that I'm quite puzzled is why they offer the engine oil change at 25,000 km when they know very well that in our M'sian weather the engine oil can't withstand that kind of torture...
I plan to make some calls to the BMW M'sia Hotline to follow up on the issue of the engine oil level drop. Anybody who has BMW email contacts in Malaysia and the global HQ kindly PM me pls. Thx a lot!
anxious
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You may also be interested to know that the current service interval of 25000km itself has been critised.
see http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance.php
Enhanced Maintenance Schedule
"Old School BMW Maintenance Schedule
BMW’s Free Scheduled Maintenance program means that BMW will perform scheduled maintenance free of charge during the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty period.
Prior to the advent of BMW Free Scheduled Maintenance, approximate BMW maintenance recommendations were: automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and filter changes every 15,000 miles, manual gearbox and differential oil changes every 30,000 miles, annual brake fluid changes, and coolant changes every two years. Spark plugs, air filter, and fuel filters were typically replaced every 30,000 miles on most BMWs (this is a tune-up) except M cars up to 1995, which got new spark plugs and a valve adjustment every 15,000. Later advances in computer engine management and spark plug technology legitimately allow 60,000-mile spark plug life if not more.
Prior to Free Scheduled Maintenance, you couldn’t change engine oil often enough according to most dealerships. And when the car was in the shop it would often be due for this service or that inspection, all at the owner’s expense.
But once BMW began paying for scheduled maintenance, lo and behold the "schedule" was revised. Now the cars hardly need any maintenance at all. The 1,200-mile break-in service was done away with except for M cars. Engine oil suddenly lasts 15,000 miles (dealers are supposed to use BMW synthetic oil). Manual gearbox and differential oil? No worries there – now BMW says they NEVER need to be changed; it’s "lifetime fill." Brake fluid and coolant service intervals were doubled with no change in the original BMW brake fluid and anti-freeze dealers are supposed to use.
So, is Free Scheduled Maintenance all about marketing and cost reduction – BMW’s costs? Draw your own conclusions. There is no doubt that many buyers correctly view BMWs as "high maintenance" cars. Nothing can address that more effectively than Free Scheduled Maintenance. But the operative word in the name is "scheduled." In my opinion, extended service intervals and "lifetime fill" came very close on the heels of Free Scheduled Maintenance.
This is an alternative to BMW’s factory-recommended maintenance schedule. It is not, "Mike Miller’s maintenance schedule." It is actually BMW’s maintenance schedule, more or less, which was used prior to Free Scheduled Maintenance. It also represents my opinion, based upon my experience and that of my readers, tech advisors, and professional BMW technicians both dealer and independent. I have prepared it because of the large number of readers asking for this information. The fact that my opinions may differ from those of others does not mean anyone is necessarily right or wrong. You will get a different answer from every person you ask about routine vehicle maintenance.
You should also know that in my work I have observed one common reason for BMW drivability problems in contemporary cars with over 100,000 miles is that they need a tune up – spark plugs, air filter, and fuel filter.
Break-in Service for New Cars
Traditionally, BMW performed a break-in service at 1,200 miles on new cars, which included changing the engine oil and filter, manual gearbox oil or automatic transmission fluid, and differential oil. With the advent of Free Scheduled Maintenance, BMW stopped performing break-in services except on M cars.
I have seen that the engine and driveline oils in new modern BMWs are literally full of metal at 1,200 miles – as has always been the case with any new car. For this reason, I recommend a 1,200-mile break-in service.
As for break-in technique, my best advice is to maintain the car pursuant to break-in the engine over an extended road trip comprised of as much mountainous terrain as possible, for as long as possible up to 1,200 miles, and keep the rpms within the limits BMW recommends.
Engine
Oil and Filter Intervals
BMW recommends their Castrol 5W-30 synthetic motor oil in all BMWs except contemporary M cars, for which they recommend their Castrol 10W-60 synthetic motor oil. The factory oil change interval is controlled electronically, but is presently about every 15,000 miles. If you are running BMW’s oil, I recommend an oil and filter change interval between 5,000 and 7,500 miles.
I use Red Line synthetic oil (www.redlineoil.com) in 5W-30, 10W-40, 15W-50, or 20W-50, depending on factory recommendation, ambient temperatures, and severity of service (track use, sustained high rpm use), with a drain interval – 7,500 to 15,000 miles depending on engine and severity of service. Under racing or track conditions I’d use a short interval; same for carbureted engines which tend to get some fuel into the oil. I would run the same intervals with very high end "designer synthetics" such as Agip, Amsoil, Lubrication Engineers Monolec Ultra, Lubro Moly Vol-synthese, or Motul.
All other commercially available synthetic oils, 5,000-7,500-mile drain intervals.
BMW’s High Performance Synthethic 5W-30 and their Motorsport 10W-60 can go 7,500 miles.
Old fashioned petroleum oil, same viscosities, 3,000-to-5,000 mile drain intervals (I prefer Kendall)
The following information is courtesy of Motorwatch.com:
"Redline is Group V (polyol ester) based (POE or esters).
"Amsoil and Mobil-1 are Group IV (poly-alpha olefin) based (PAO or synthesized hydrocarbons SHC).
"Castrol Syntec and all the others calling themselves synthetic are Group III (hydrocracked slack wax).
"The petroleum motor alls are all mineral oil based and make up Group II.
"We really should group Red Line by itself, and put the others in separate categories (according to the groups) because their performance is so different.
"See motorwatch>AutoMotiveBible>Oil Change Intervals>oil classifications
http://www.motorwatch.com/images/oilclassifications.jpg
"AutoMotiveBible> Oil Change Intervals>oil change intervals
http://www.motorwatch.com/images/oilchangeintervals.jpg"
Original BMW filters are recommended for price and quality, or MANN, Mahle, Bosch, or Knecht filters
Spark Plugs
There is no reason to deviate from the factory-recommended Bosch or NGK spark plug specification, changed at 30,000-to-60,000-mile intervals, depending upon the car and severity of service. Basically, any BMW produced after 1993 can easily run 60,000 miles on a set of spark plugs.
The factory also has part numbers and applications for "100,000-mile spark plugs." These are good too, and are capable of 100,000 miles of service assuming no other problems, which might cause them to foul during that time. However, in engines with spark plugs recessed into the middle of the cylinder head, oil can leak into the spark plug recesses past the valve cover gaskets. This is a hidden leak if the plugs are left in service for an extended period of time, because no one looks in there until they’re changing the plugs or chasing a problem. An oil leak in the spark plug recesses, left to fester, can cause ignition coil failure and even ECU failure. So, even if you want to leave the plugs in service, you should at least check the spark plug recesses for signs of oil leakage at least every 60,000 miles. And at the point you’re in there, you might as well replace the plugs. This is the issue with 100,000-mile plugs.
Moreover, while you may not have any problems running spark plugs for 100,000 miles in some BMWs, this does not mean the plugs will not be worn, or that that wear is not affecting engine performance. In other words, for optimum engine performance, most BMWs want spark plugs about every 60,000 miles.
Note that older M cars except the US specification S50/S52 powered E36 variants want plugs about every 15,000 miles.
Stay away from platinum plugs in BMWs. These don’t last as long as the regular Bosch copper or silver plugs and NGK plus, and have been known to fail in other ways. The regular old Bosch Platinum single electrode plug is, however, a very good choice for cars OTHER THAN BMWs.
Air Filter
Stock paper element, check every 15,000 miles, tap out dirt, replace if necessary, standard interval 30,000 miles, use Original BMW filters or aftermarket filters such as Knecht, MANN, Mahle, or Bosch
K&N oiled cotton gauze filters, clean every 15,000 to 30,000 miles depending on condition, use only K&N approved cleaner and oil, and follow K&N cleaning procedures
Interior Air Filter
On cars so equipped, the interior air filter service life really depends on where you drive and how often you operate the climate control system, especially if you do not use the recirculate mode. If the system is on all the time, figure on replacing the interior air filter every 15,000 miles. Otherwise, every 30,000 miles will probably be sufficient.
Fuel Filter
Replace every 30,000 miles on models produced up to 1992 (small fuel filter) and every 60,000 miles on models produced from 1992-on, (large fuel filter), also replace if fuel pump is replaced, use original BMW filters or Bosch, Knecht, MANN, or Mahle. Note that newer Bimmers have an integral fuel pressure regulator on the fuel filter, raising the price to $60-$80.
Note the service life of a fuel filter (and yes, BMW now calls them "lifetime fuel filters") depends entirely on the fuel it filters. It’s possible for a fuel filter to last "a lifetime" – whatever that means. It’s also possible for a fuel filter to last a block and a half if you fill up with dirty gasoline.
Valve Adjustment
Perform every 15,000 to 30,000 miles where applicable
Timing Belt, Tensioner Pulley, and Front Cam Seal
Replace every 5 years or 50,000 miles on vehicles so equipped, water pump replacement also recommended as preventative attendant service, but not required, 40,000 miles or four years on the E30 325iX (1988-1991)
Engine Drive Belts
Replace O.E. or O.E.M. BMW poly-ribbed serpentine belts every 60,000 miles
Replace O.E.M. Continental or Pirelli or original BMW V-belts every 30,000 miles
Replace "auto store" quality V-belts every 15,000 miles
Engine Coolant Service
I recommend changing engine coolant at two-year intervals, using only factory BMW anti-freeze mixed 50-50 with distilled water (reason – BMW anti-freeze is phosphate free, phosphates cause aluminum oxidation, which blocks cylinder head coolant passages and causes head gasket failure, others may claim to be "aluminum safe" or "phosphate free" – make your choice, but I’ve used BMW anti-freeze exclusively in many cars and have never had an aluminum oxidation or head gasket problem)
The factory coolant change interval used to be every two years. It is now every four years.
Water and Fuel Hoses
Replace water and fuel hoses every 150,000 miles, highly recommended use of O.E. or O.E.M. hoses only, along with the original hose clamps or Wurth/Zebra replacements. The original BMW hose clamps are far superior to anything you’ll find in a U.S. auto store.
Power Steering Fluid
Replace every 30,000 miles. This is a very neglected operating fluid. Almost all BMWs use automatic transmission fluid in the power steering system, except for some E32 7 Series cars, which use Pentosin hydraulic oil. Nothing will balls up the works faster than using one when you should be using the other. Check the sticker on the reservoir, check the owner’s manual, and if you are still confused, take the car to a pro or e-mail me.
It is not necessary to evacuate the entire power steering system. I just open a line down by the pump.
I have had great experience using Red Line Synthetic Power Steering Fluid – 184,000 miles and counting on the original rack and pinion unit and pump on the vehicle I used to test this product. But I would not use it in place of Pentosin hydraulic oil where that product is specified.
Manual Gearbox Oil
Only synthetic oil should be used in BMW manual gearboxes, drain interval 30,000 miles
BMW-specified factory synthetic gearbox oil changes often, but it is all good. I just wouldn’t leave it in service forever, or for a "lifetime" – whatever that means.
Red Line products are also highly recommended (www.redlineoil.com). Questions or problems, e-mail me or dave@redlineoil.com.
All the BMW gearbox rebuilders I know use Red Line MTL exclusively, regardless of model year or gearbox. The general consensus is, MTL is the better lubricant. However, the D4ATF product will require less shifter babying during cold operation. I use Red Line MTL in manual gearboxes except where I can’t trust the driver to shift properly when the gearbox is cold, in which case I use Red Line D4 ATF.
Red Line MT-90 as slightly higher viscosity than their MTL product, which can be useful in reducing gearbox rattle, which can occur in neutral with the clutch pedal out in vehicles that do not have dual mass flywheels. The rattle does not affect gearbox function.
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and Filter
For older automatics using Red Line or other synthetic ATF, drain interval 30,000 miles. Old fashioned petroleum ATF, drain interval 15,000 miles
At various production dates in the mid-1990s, which vary according to model, BMW switched to their so-called "lifetime fill" ATF in automatic transmissions, as well as manual gearbox lubricant and differential oil. The reason for this, as far as anyone can tell, is marketing and not engineering – the idea being to foster the notion of the low-maintenance BMW.
There was no explanation of what "lifetime" meant, i.e., lifetime of the car, the component, or for that matter the driver. If it was the component, then obviously anything could be "lifetime fill". The factory’s initial position is that these lubricants never need to be changed. Then, some time later, it came out that "lifetime" means 100,000 miles. Many dealerships are now recommending manual gearbox and differential oil changes be done at customer expense every 60,000 miles. Every independent BMW technician I know recommends a 30,000-mile interval, and many recommend Red Line synthetic oils (www.redlineoil.com), but not for automatics with "lifetime fill."
Older automatic transmission models, which do not have "lifetime fill" should have ATF and filter services every 15,000 miles if using petroleum ATF; every 30,000 miles with synthetic.
However, the modern automatic transmissions are different. No one knows exactly what BMW’s proprietary ATF is, so no one knows if there are viable alternatives. We do know that BMW dealerships charge about $500 for an ATF and filter service, due to the price of the ATF. And that’s assuming you can get them to do the job, which is not often the case.
Bavarian Autosport (www.bavauto.com) is now importing the proprietary "lifetime fill" ATF at reasonable prices, which they sell along with filter kits, for independent BMW shops and do-it-yourselfers.
It is risky to drain a previously un-maintained automatic transmission with high mileage, even though if it were my car I would probably chance it. Still, I have seen it happen too many times, where a well-meaning owner or technician performs an ATF and filter service on a neglected but well-shifting automatic, and then all of the sudden it starts slipping. I can’t explain it, but my feeling is the fresh ATF flushes a bit of sludge from a place where it was doing no harm to a place where it does do harm. Overfilling, underfilling, and cleanliness are also issues in ATF and filter servicing, but these should not be problematic for a professional BMW technician, dealer or independent.
BMW has backed off their lifetime fill mantra for automatic transmissions, currently recommending an ATF and filter change every 100,000 miles.
My inclination is to tell people to change "lifetime" ATF and filter every 30,000 miles. However the fact is, I've seen BMW automatic transmissions that were maintained break anyway. In that event, say it happens at 90,000 miles, you would like to have that $1,500 you spent on ATF and filter changes to put toward your new automatic transmission. And if I told you to spend it on maintenance you’re probably not going to be very happy with me. On the other hand, I have seen maintained automatics last 200,000 miles. I have also seen unmaintained automatics last 200,000 miles, although both are very rare. There's just no predicting with these transmissions. When you choose to buy an automatic transmission, you also buy into the vagaries of the darn things, which is one reason technicians hate them.
Whether to maintain a modern BMW automatic is up to you. I am washing my hands of automatic transmissions – I don’t like them, I don’t buy them, and I don’t mess around with them under the car. At the end of the day, for long-term durability, order the car with a manual gearbox.
At automatic transmission replacement time, we are confronted with the reality that the local transmission shop cannot rebuild BMW automatic transmissions, even those built by GM (BMW’s GM transmissions bear no resemblance to GM transmission in domestic cars). There are some domestic specialists who concentrate in BMW automatic transmission rebuilding, and you’ll see their ads in Roundel and Bimmer. However, I have no experience with any of the current domestic rebuilders. My experience in the past is…well, the owner wound up buying a BMW factory rebuilt automatic transmission every time, and this is the course I recommend to readers – "back to the dealer."
Some of you, having seen the light, may be interested in converting to a manual gearbox. This is always possible, but for most of us it won’t be less expensive than a replacement automatic transmission. This is because of all the other parts and additional labor required. And the newer the car the harder the job will be. It is certainly a doable swap, but there’s no cost savings even if you do the work yourself. The exception would be if you have access to a manual gearbox donor car for little or no expense.
Differential Oil
Once again, BMW’s specified synthetic differential oil changes often but it is all good…just not forever. Note BMW has different products for open and limited slip differentials.
I use and also recommend Red Line 75W-90 synthetic gear oil, drain interval 30,000 miles in any BMW differential except as noted below. It is okay to use Red Line 75W-90 in place of BMW "lifetime fill" gear oil.
The E46 M3, E39 M5, E60 M5, and E61 M6 should use Red Line 75W-140, as that is the viscosity of the factory fill Castrol SAF-XJ – or use Castrol SAF-XJ, BMW part number 82 22 2 282 583.
The difference between Red Line 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil and Red Line 75W-90NS Synthetic Gear Oil is that the former has friction additives for limited slip differentials whereas the latter does not. However, both are the same price, and there is no problem using the 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil with friction additives in an open, non-limited-slip, differential.
For my purposes out in my home shop, this means I only have to stock one differential gear oil rather than two (three if you count the 75W-140).
For my purposes in answering BMW tech questions, this means I recommend 75W-90, because if I discuss the differences between 75W-90 and 75W-90NS once, I'll have to do it every day, and there remains the fact that limited slip differential owners will then have a 50-50 chance of getting it wrong.
So, if your BMW has an open, non-limited-slip, differential, there is no problem using the 75W-90NS if you want. If you don’t know what a limited slip differential is, then you probably haven’t read this far, but use 75W-90.
Brake Fluid
Recommend one-year brake fluid changes, or prior to each driving school or track event. BMW now recommends two-year brake fluid changes, but used to recommend a one-year interval.
Recommend ATE SL brake fluid for normal street use, ATE Type 200 or Pentosin Racing Brake Fluid for track work or very high performance use. Note that ATE Super Blue is the exact same product as ATE Type 200, except with blue dye. Personally, I can’t stand the blue dye because it turns everything blue – the reservoir, my Vacula brake bleeder, my hands, etc. Blue brake fluid helps race teams identify the source of leaks in race cars, and that is its only benefit as far as I’m concerned.
Pentosin LV is recommended for BMWs that call for low-viscosity brake fluid, such as the xDrive models.
Note
It has to be recognized that the benefits of good drivetrain lubricant maintenance do not accrue until the car matures. The difference between the car that ran 15,000-mile oil change intervals and never had it's gearbox or differential oil changed (as per BMW instructions) and the one that ran high-end synthetic lubricants and had it's driveline maintained in contravention of BMW's instructions, is the strong likelihood that the second car will be running strong at 200,000 miles whereas the first car will likely have a worn out drivetrain. BMWs, and most modern cars, will run 100,000 miles just fine with zero maintenance.
So, if you're maintaining the car religiously only to sell it at 75,000 miles then you're a good guy for helping out subsequent owners. That's nice, but to realize the fruits of your diligence, you need to keep the car for the long haul."
© 2007 Mike Miller
see http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance.php
Enhanced Maintenance Schedule
"Old School BMW Maintenance Schedule
BMW’s Free Scheduled Maintenance program means that BMW will perform scheduled maintenance free of charge during the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty period.
Prior to the advent of BMW Free Scheduled Maintenance, approximate BMW maintenance recommendations were: automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and filter changes every 15,000 miles, manual gearbox and differential oil changes every 30,000 miles, annual brake fluid changes, and coolant changes every two years. Spark plugs, air filter, and fuel filters were typically replaced every 30,000 miles on most BMWs (this is a tune-up) except M cars up to 1995, which got new spark plugs and a valve adjustment every 15,000. Later advances in computer engine management and spark plug technology legitimately allow 60,000-mile spark plug life if not more.
Prior to Free Scheduled Maintenance, you couldn’t change engine oil often enough according to most dealerships. And when the car was in the shop it would often be due for this service or that inspection, all at the owner’s expense.
But once BMW began paying for scheduled maintenance, lo and behold the "schedule" was revised. Now the cars hardly need any maintenance at all. The 1,200-mile break-in service was done away with except for M cars. Engine oil suddenly lasts 15,000 miles (dealers are supposed to use BMW synthetic oil). Manual gearbox and differential oil? No worries there – now BMW says they NEVER need to be changed; it’s "lifetime fill." Brake fluid and coolant service intervals were doubled with no change in the original BMW brake fluid and anti-freeze dealers are supposed to use.
So, is Free Scheduled Maintenance all about marketing and cost reduction – BMW’s costs? Draw your own conclusions. There is no doubt that many buyers correctly view BMWs as "high maintenance" cars. Nothing can address that more effectively than Free Scheduled Maintenance. But the operative word in the name is "scheduled." In my opinion, extended service intervals and "lifetime fill" came very close on the heels of Free Scheduled Maintenance.
This is an alternative to BMW’s factory-recommended maintenance schedule. It is not, "Mike Miller’s maintenance schedule." It is actually BMW’s maintenance schedule, more or less, which was used prior to Free Scheduled Maintenance. It also represents my opinion, based upon my experience and that of my readers, tech advisors, and professional BMW technicians both dealer and independent. I have prepared it because of the large number of readers asking for this information. The fact that my opinions may differ from those of others does not mean anyone is necessarily right or wrong. You will get a different answer from every person you ask about routine vehicle maintenance.
You should also know that in my work I have observed one common reason for BMW drivability problems in contemporary cars with over 100,000 miles is that they need a tune up – spark plugs, air filter, and fuel filter.
Break-in Service for New Cars
Traditionally, BMW performed a break-in service at 1,200 miles on new cars, which included changing the engine oil and filter, manual gearbox oil or automatic transmission fluid, and differential oil. With the advent of Free Scheduled Maintenance, BMW stopped performing break-in services except on M cars.
I have seen that the engine and driveline oils in new modern BMWs are literally full of metal at 1,200 miles – as has always been the case with any new car. For this reason, I recommend a 1,200-mile break-in service.
As for break-in technique, my best advice is to maintain the car pursuant to break-in the engine over an extended road trip comprised of as much mountainous terrain as possible, for as long as possible up to 1,200 miles, and keep the rpms within the limits BMW recommends.
Engine
Oil and Filter Intervals
BMW recommends their Castrol 5W-30 synthetic motor oil in all BMWs except contemporary M cars, for which they recommend their Castrol 10W-60 synthetic motor oil. The factory oil change interval is controlled electronically, but is presently about every 15,000 miles. If you are running BMW’s oil, I recommend an oil and filter change interval between 5,000 and 7,500 miles.
I use Red Line synthetic oil (www.redlineoil.com) in 5W-30, 10W-40, 15W-50, or 20W-50, depending on factory recommendation, ambient temperatures, and severity of service (track use, sustained high rpm use), with a drain interval – 7,500 to 15,000 miles depending on engine and severity of service. Under racing or track conditions I’d use a short interval; same for carbureted engines which tend to get some fuel into the oil. I would run the same intervals with very high end "designer synthetics" such as Agip, Amsoil, Lubrication Engineers Monolec Ultra, Lubro Moly Vol-synthese, or Motul.
All other commercially available synthetic oils, 5,000-7,500-mile drain intervals.
BMW’s High Performance Synthethic 5W-30 and their Motorsport 10W-60 can go 7,500 miles.
Old fashioned petroleum oil, same viscosities, 3,000-to-5,000 mile drain intervals (I prefer Kendall)
The following information is courtesy of Motorwatch.com:
"Redline is Group V (polyol ester) based (POE or esters).
"Amsoil and Mobil-1 are Group IV (poly-alpha olefin) based (PAO or synthesized hydrocarbons SHC).
"Castrol Syntec and all the others calling themselves synthetic are Group III (hydrocracked slack wax).
"The petroleum motor alls are all mineral oil based and make up Group II.
"We really should group Red Line by itself, and put the others in separate categories (according to the groups) because their performance is so different.
"See motorwatch>AutoMotiveBible>Oil Change Intervals>oil classifications
http://www.motorwatch.com/images/oilclassifications.jpg
"AutoMotiveBible> Oil Change Intervals>oil change intervals
http://www.motorwatch.com/images/oilchangeintervals.jpg"
Original BMW filters are recommended for price and quality, or MANN, Mahle, Bosch, or Knecht filters
Spark Plugs
There is no reason to deviate from the factory-recommended Bosch or NGK spark plug specification, changed at 30,000-to-60,000-mile intervals, depending upon the car and severity of service. Basically, any BMW produced after 1993 can easily run 60,000 miles on a set of spark plugs.
The factory also has part numbers and applications for "100,000-mile spark plugs." These are good too, and are capable of 100,000 miles of service assuming no other problems, which might cause them to foul during that time. However, in engines with spark plugs recessed into the middle of the cylinder head, oil can leak into the spark plug recesses past the valve cover gaskets. This is a hidden leak if the plugs are left in service for an extended period of time, because no one looks in there until they’re changing the plugs or chasing a problem. An oil leak in the spark plug recesses, left to fester, can cause ignition coil failure and even ECU failure. So, even if you want to leave the plugs in service, you should at least check the spark plug recesses for signs of oil leakage at least every 60,000 miles. And at the point you’re in there, you might as well replace the plugs. This is the issue with 100,000-mile plugs.
Moreover, while you may not have any problems running spark plugs for 100,000 miles in some BMWs, this does not mean the plugs will not be worn, or that that wear is not affecting engine performance. In other words, for optimum engine performance, most BMWs want spark plugs about every 60,000 miles.
Note that older M cars except the US specification S50/S52 powered E36 variants want plugs about every 15,000 miles.
Stay away from platinum plugs in BMWs. These don’t last as long as the regular Bosch copper or silver plugs and NGK plus, and have been known to fail in other ways. The regular old Bosch Platinum single electrode plug is, however, a very good choice for cars OTHER THAN BMWs.
Air Filter
Stock paper element, check every 15,000 miles, tap out dirt, replace if necessary, standard interval 30,000 miles, use Original BMW filters or aftermarket filters such as Knecht, MANN, Mahle, or Bosch
K&N oiled cotton gauze filters, clean every 15,000 to 30,000 miles depending on condition, use only K&N approved cleaner and oil, and follow K&N cleaning procedures
Interior Air Filter
On cars so equipped, the interior air filter service life really depends on where you drive and how often you operate the climate control system, especially if you do not use the recirculate mode. If the system is on all the time, figure on replacing the interior air filter every 15,000 miles. Otherwise, every 30,000 miles will probably be sufficient.
Fuel Filter
Replace every 30,000 miles on models produced up to 1992 (small fuel filter) and every 60,000 miles on models produced from 1992-on, (large fuel filter), also replace if fuel pump is replaced, use original BMW filters or Bosch, Knecht, MANN, or Mahle. Note that newer Bimmers have an integral fuel pressure regulator on the fuel filter, raising the price to $60-$80.
Note the service life of a fuel filter (and yes, BMW now calls them "lifetime fuel filters") depends entirely on the fuel it filters. It’s possible for a fuel filter to last "a lifetime" – whatever that means. It’s also possible for a fuel filter to last a block and a half if you fill up with dirty gasoline.
Valve Adjustment
Perform every 15,000 to 30,000 miles where applicable
Timing Belt, Tensioner Pulley, and Front Cam Seal
Replace every 5 years or 50,000 miles on vehicles so equipped, water pump replacement also recommended as preventative attendant service, but not required, 40,000 miles or four years on the E30 325iX (1988-1991)
Engine Drive Belts
Replace O.E. or O.E.M. BMW poly-ribbed serpentine belts every 60,000 miles
Replace O.E.M. Continental or Pirelli or original BMW V-belts every 30,000 miles
Replace "auto store" quality V-belts every 15,000 miles
Engine Coolant Service
I recommend changing engine coolant at two-year intervals, using only factory BMW anti-freeze mixed 50-50 with distilled water (reason – BMW anti-freeze is phosphate free, phosphates cause aluminum oxidation, which blocks cylinder head coolant passages and causes head gasket failure, others may claim to be "aluminum safe" or "phosphate free" – make your choice, but I’ve used BMW anti-freeze exclusively in many cars and have never had an aluminum oxidation or head gasket problem)
The factory coolant change interval used to be every two years. It is now every four years.
Water and Fuel Hoses
Replace water and fuel hoses every 150,000 miles, highly recommended use of O.E. or O.E.M. hoses only, along with the original hose clamps or Wurth/Zebra replacements. The original BMW hose clamps are far superior to anything you’ll find in a U.S. auto store.
Power Steering Fluid
Replace every 30,000 miles. This is a very neglected operating fluid. Almost all BMWs use automatic transmission fluid in the power steering system, except for some E32 7 Series cars, which use Pentosin hydraulic oil. Nothing will balls up the works faster than using one when you should be using the other. Check the sticker on the reservoir, check the owner’s manual, and if you are still confused, take the car to a pro or e-mail me.
It is not necessary to evacuate the entire power steering system. I just open a line down by the pump.
I have had great experience using Red Line Synthetic Power Steering Fluid – 184,000 miles and counting on the original rack and pinion unit and pump on the vehicle I used to test this product. But I would not use it in place of Pentosin hydraulic oil where that product is specified.
Manual Gearbox Oil
Only synthetic oil should be used in BMW manual gearboxes, drain interval 30,000 miles
BMW-specified factory synthetic gearbox oil changes often, but it is all good. I just wouldn’t leave it in service forever, or for a "lifetime" – whatever that means.
Red Line products are also highly recommended (www.redlineoil.com). Questions or problems, e-mail me or dave@redlineoil.com.
All the BMW gearbox rebuilders I know use Red Line MTL exclusively, regardless of model year or gearbox. The general consensus is, MTL is the better lubricant. However, the D4ATF product will require less shifter babying during cold operation. I use Red Line MTL in manual gearboxes except where I can’t trust the driver to shift properly when the gearbox is cold, in which case I use Red Line D4 ATF.
Red Line MT-90 as slightly higher viscosity than their MTL product, which can be useful in reducing gearbox rattle, which can occur in neutral with the clutch pedal out in vehicles that do not have dual mass flywheels. The rattle does not affect gearbox function.
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and Filter
For older automatics using Red Line or other synthetic ATF, drain interval 30,000 miles. Old fashioned petroleum ATF, drain interval 15,000 miles
At various production dates in the mid-1990s, which vary according to model, BMW switched to their so-called "lifetime fill" ATF in automatic transmissions, as well as manual gearbox lubricant and differential oil. The reason for this, as far as anyone can tell, is marketing and not engineering – the idea being to foster the notion of the low-maintenance BMW.
There was no explanation of what "lifetime" meant, i.e., lifetime of the car, the component, or for that matter the driver. If it was the component, then obviously anything could be "lifetime fill". The factory’s initial position is that these lubricants never need to be changed. Then, some time later, it came out that "lifetime" means 100,000 miles. Many dealerships are now recommending manual gearbox and differential oil changes be done at customer expense every 60,000 miles. Every independent BMW technician I know recommends a 30,000-mile interval, and many recommend Red Line synthetic oils (www.redlineoil.com), but not for automatics with "lifetime fill."
Older automatic transmission models, which do not have "lifetime fill" should have ATF and filter services every 15,000 miles if using petroleum ATF; every 30,000 miles with synthetic.
However, the modern automatic transmissions are different. No one knows exactly what BMW’s proprietary ATF is, so no one knows if there are viable alternatives. We do know that BMW dealerships charge about $500 for an ATF and filter service, due to the price of the ATF. And that’s assuming you can get them to do the job, which is not often the case.
Bavarian Autosport (www.bavauto.com) is now importing the proprietary "lifetime fill" ATF at reasonable prices, which they sell along with filter kits, for independent BMW shops and do-it-yourselfers.
It is risky to drain a previously un-maintained automatic transmission with high mileage, even though if it were my car I would probably chance it. Still, I have seen it happen too many times, where a well-meaning owner or technician performs an ATF and filter service on a neglected but well-shifting automatic, and then all of the sudden it starts slipping. I can’t explain it, but my feeling is the fresh ATF flushes a bit of sludge from a place where it was doing no harm to a place where it does do harm. Overfilling, underfilling, and cleanliness are also issues in ATF and filter servicing, but these should not be problematic for a professional BMW technician, dealer or independent.
BMW has backed off their lifetime fill mantra for automatic transmissions, currently recommending an ATF and filter change every 100,000 miles.
My inclination is to tell people to change "lifetime" ATF and filter every 30,000 miles. However the fact is, I've seen BMW automatic transmissions that were maintained break anyway. In that event, say it happens at 90,000 miles, you would like to have that $1,500 you spent on ATF and filter changes to put toward your new automatic transmission. And if I told you to spend it on maintenance you’re probably not going to be very happy with me. On the other hand, I have seen maintained automatics last 200,000 miles. I have also seen unmaintained automatics last 200,000 miles, although both are very rare. There's just no predicting with these transmissions. When you choose to buy an automatic transmission, you also buy into the vagaries of the darn things, which is one reason technicians hate them.
Whether to maintain a modern BMW automatic is up to you. I am washing my hands of automatic transmissions – I don’t like them, I don’t buy them, and I don’t mess around with them under the car. At the end of the day, for long-term durability, order the car with a manual gearbox.
At automatic transmission replacement time, we are confronted with the reality that the local transmission shop cannot rebuild BMW automatic transmissions, even those built by GM (BMW’s GM transmissions bear no resemblance to GM transmission in domestic cars). There are some domestic specialists who concentrate in BMW automatic transmission rebuilding, and you’ll see their ads in Roundel and Bimmer. However, I have no experience with any of the current domestic rebuilders. My experience in the past is…well, the owner wound up buying a BMW factory rebuilt automatic transmission every time, and this is the course I recommend to readers – "back to the dealer."
Some of you, having seen the light, may be interested in converting to a manual gearbox. This is always possible, but for most of us it won’t be less expensive than a replacement automatic transmission. This is because of all the other parts and additional labor required. And the newer the car the harder the job will be. It is certainly a doable swap, but there’s no cost savings even if you do the work yourself. The exception would be if you have access to a manual gearbox donor car for little or no expense.
Differential Oil
Once again, BMW’s specified synthetic differential oil changes often but it is all good…just not forever. Note BMW has different products for open and limited slip differentials.
I use and also recommend Red Line 75W-90 synthetic gear oil, drain interval 30,000 miles in any BMW differential except as noted below. It is okay to use Red Line 75W-90 in place of BMW "lifetime fill" gear oil.
The E46 M3, E39 M5, E60 M5, and E61 M6 should use Red Line 75W-140, as that is the viscosity of the factory fill Castrol SAF-XJ – or use Castrol SAF-XJ, BMW part number 82 22 2 282 583.
The difference between Red Line 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil and Red Line 75W-90NS Synthetic Gear Oil is that the former has friction additives for limited slip differentials whereas the latter does not. However, both are the same price, and there is no problem using the 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil with friction additives in an open, non-limited-slip, differential.
For my purposes out in my home shop, this means I only have to stock one differential gear oil rather than two (three if you count the 75W-140).
For my purposes in answering BMW tech questions, this means I recommend 75W-90, because if I discuss the differences between 75W-90 and 75W-90NS once, I'll have to do it every day, and there remains the fact that limited slip differential owners will then have a 50-50 chance of getting it wrong.
So, if your BMW has an open, non-limited-slip, differential, there is no problem using the 75W-90NS if you want. If you don’t know what a limited slip differential is, then you probably haven’t read this far, but use 75W-90.
Brake Fluid
Recommend one-year brake fluid changes, or prior to each driving school or track event. BMW now recommends two-year brake fluid changes, but used to recommend a one-year interval.
Recommend ATE SL brake fluid for normal street use, ATE Type 200 or Pentosin Racing Brake Fluid for track work or very high performance use. Note that ATE Super Blue is the exact same product as ATE Type 200, except with blue dye. Personally, I can’t stand the blue dye because it turns everything blue – the reservoir, my Vacula brake bleeder, my hands, etc. Blue brake fluid helps race teams identify the source of leaks in race cars, and that is its only benefit as far as I’m concerned.
Pentosin LV is recommended for BMWs that call for low-viscosity brake fluid, such as the xDrive models.
Note
It has to be recognized that the benefits of good drivetrain lubricant maintenance do not accrue until the car matures. The difference between the car that ran 15,000-mile oil change intervals and never had it's gearbox or differential oil changed (as per BMW instructions) and the one that ran high-end synthetic lubricants and had it's driveline maintained in contravention of BMW's instructions, is the strong likelihood that the second car will be running strong at 200,000 miles whereas the first car will likely have a worn out drivetrain. BMWs, and most modern cars, will run 100,000 miles just fine with zero maintenance.
So, if you're maintaining the car religiously only to sell it at 75,000 miles then you're a good guy for helping out subsequent owners. That's nice, but to realize the fruits of your diligence, you need to keep the car for the long haul."
© 2007 Mike Miller
Oh no... GHS, I think u have the same problem with David Yong "ex" engine.... Consult him on ur situation and he'll give you the best answer and he manage to change a new engine for free from BMW... Is not normal for the engine oil to "drop" so fast as my 320 (touch wood) drop about 25% after 20k km.
Another thing to share here...
I have did my first services when milleage around 26k km. Now the reading on OBC showing next oil change is 40k km.... SO, 26k + 40k = 66k. That means, my next services would not be free again!!! I go thru the OBC reading, maybe within 60k km, they'll only change ur engine oil and brake pad once...
Another thing to share here...
I have did my first services when milleage around 26k km. Now the reading on OBC showing next oil change is 40k km.... SO, 26k + 40k = 66k. That means, my next services would not be free again!!! I go thru the OBC reading, maybe within 60k km, they'll only change ur engine oil and brake pad once...
fabianyee
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just a word of advice on those following religiously on the 25,000km service interval... The engine oil may or may not last as long in our tropical climate.... What's the consequence? You may not feel the pinch now but 3-4 years down the line, it's a different story.. Sludge build up is one big issue. If you have the opportunity, stick around when they drain your engine oil during the 25,000km service... That is if they allow you to see how bad the used oil is... And if you're a mod kaki who has changed to after market air filter (open pod, filter panel replacement etc.), then your oil will tend to get dirty faster as well... Remember that engine oil performs 2 functions, cleaning and lubricating... And it turns black because it's performing its cleaning duty. The more it cleans, the 'dirtier' the oil is. and when it thickens, it will slowly turn into sludge..
However, u don't have to consider my theories and assumptions. Just stick around and insist to see the used engine oil being drained from your car. If you think you're ok with what you saw, then it's not an issue. But if you feel that that's not how you should maintain your precious ride, you can always change the oil somewhere in between the scheduled services. Always use BMW approved oil and the spec specified. If possible, bring it back to the authorised service centre. I'm not sure what's their company service policy, but if you're willing to pay for a mid-interval oil change, would they entertain your request??? Or would they refuse out right?
I know in US people buy and drive cars without servicing them till it breaks.. Then they move on to another car.. But cars are cheap there...
They don't need 5-7 years car loan... Most of the new cars cost less than 6 months worth of salary for most average income earners.
However, u don't have to consider my theories and assumptions. Just stick around and insist to see the used engine oil being drained from your car. If you think you're ok with what you saw, then it's not an issue. But if you feel that that's not how you should maintain your precious ride, you can always change the oil somewhere in between the scheduled services. Always use BMW approved oil and the spec specified. If possible, bring it back to the authorised service centre. I'm not sure what's their company service policy, but if you're willing to pay for a mid-interval oil change, would they entertain your request??? Or would they refuse out right?
I know in US people buy and drive cars without servicing them till it breaks.. Then they move on to another car.. But cars are cheap there...
They don't need 5-7 years car loan... Most of the new cars cost less than 6 months worth of salary for most average income earners.Juan Powerblow
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Thanks Fabs! That's good advice.
anxious
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I found this site http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/maintenance/e36/
The owner religiously maintains her E36.
Unfortunately not many people actually care for their cars.
Most are ignorant and rely on the dealer to remind them when to service.
Can you imagine how many people will unwittingly follow the 25000km service schedule, thinking that its a great deal.
These people would probably not keep their cars for more than 5 yrs and in all probability the car wont show any problems by then.
BUT sooner or later the neglect will catch up!
I really petty the person who buys it second hand.
PS Just as a matter of interest, what was AB's service interval for the E36 & E46?
The owner religiously maintains her E36.
Unfortunately not many people actually care for their cars.
Most are ignorant and rely on the dealer to remind them when to service.
Can you imagine how many people will unwittingly follow the 25000km service schedule, thinking that its a great deal.
These people would probably not keep their cars for more than 5 yrs and in all probability the car wont show any problems by then.
BUT sooner or later the neglect will catch up!
I really petty the person who buys it second hand.
PS Just as a matter of interest, what was AB's service interval for the E36 & E46?
anxious
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Anorther interesting site
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3129
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3804
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3129
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3804
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