Restoration of E30

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But I think the yellow submarine is using Getrag240 manual box... hehehehe


Yellow submarine?? Do u mean Zoggee's UDM kah? Does it affect the speed of the vehicle?

Regards,
CK
 
Originally posted by cklim@May 22 2005, 04:03 PM
Yellow submarine?? Do u mean Zoggee's UDM kah? Does it affect the speed of the vehicle?

Regards,
CK
affect the speed??? How???? The speed sensor is at the rear differential leh...


The ratios are about the same... only it's built tougher to handle more torque from the 325i...
 
my yellow machine is running on Getrag 240...a bit notchy due to old liao...but its still running la..

I used it with open diff 3.45, 4.10LSD. with B20 engine before.and currently running on 3.73LSD.


gonna sell my giabok liao..hehe :D
 
Cklim,

I also suffer the same with my car as your problem is similar to mine...
the car lost its top speed after changing the rear differencial.
My engine M20B20 also having leakage problem at the valve seal (engine oil flows to air-filter). No point fixing as it will caost more then RM1000.

Some questions for you :

Where did you replace your ball-joints, stabilizer-link & anti-roll bar bushes and lower arm bushes and how much it cost ya? How do you feel before and after the replacement?

Have you replaced the engine yet? how much and where?

Thanks & regards
 
Originally posted by miepower@May 26 2005, 03:35 PM
Cklim,

I also suffer the same with my car as your problem is similar to mine...
the car lost its top speed after changing the rear differencial.
My engine M20B20 also having leakage problem at the valve seal (engine oil flows to air-filter). No point fixing as it will caost more then RM1000.

Some questions for you :

Where did you replace your ball-joints, stabilizer-link & anti-roll bar bushes and lower arm bushes and how much it cost ya? How do you feel before and after the replacement?

Have you replaced the engine yet? how much and where?

Thanks & regards

I’m not sure whether it’s worth to fix the leakage problem for around RM1000++? If you are to replace an engine would cost more than that. My mechanic quoted me around RM2,800 for M20B25, excluding labour fees! But he hasn't found a decent one, so i'm still using my L-Jet M20B20. He is situated nex to BP station at Jln Ipoh.

So far I oredy spend about RM3,000 to fix the car, that include buying parts - ball-joints (inner & outer), stabilizer-link, anti-roll bar bushes, lower arm bushes, tie rod end, engine mounting, transmission mounting, diff mounting, used diff, used drive shaft, repair power steering rack & labour fees - want to pengsan oredy :blink: ! The nex project – putting in M20B25 will make me more pengsan (bo lue liau $$) :cry: !!

Regards,
cklim
 
CKlim,

Thats what happens when you come to TT with out anti-virus, kena racun kow kow. But thats the beauty about owning an e30, the modification potentials............
 
Originally posted by miepower@May 26 2005, 03:35 PM
Cklim,

I also suffer the same with my car as your problem is similar to mine...
the car lost its top speed after changing the rear differencial.
My engine M20B20 also having leakage problem at the valve seal (engine oil flows to air-filter). No point fixing as it will caost more then RM1000.

Some questions for you :

Where did you replace your ball-joints, stabilizer-link & anti-roll bar bushes and lower arm bushes and how much it cost ya? How do you feel before and after the replacement?

Have you replaced the engine yet? how much and where?

Thanks & regards
miepower,

After TT at Bkt. Jelutong, i discovered another option beside M20B25, it's Motronic M20B20 (both oso recommended by zaskar - racun me lagi :D !). i heard jeffreyewe is using this engine, seems very smooth & powerful woh! Hem... will get my mechcanic to quot me for this option :) .

Regards,
cklim
 
Originally posted by jeffreyewe@May 28 2005, 09:18 PM
errr....I'm still using m20b20 L-jet.
Aik!! Wrong info :blink: ?? Anyway, ur L-Jet sounds very different compared to mine, & it's damn powerful too :yes: !

If my mechanic still couldn't find a Motronic M20B20 or M20B25 by end of June, I may consider overhaul my existing L-Jet M20B20, but juz not sure how much it will cost :unsure:.
 
cklim dude, if u want to source out the m20b25 let me knw and i'll source it for u at a reasonable!
i know where to get it!


Brad,

Juz found out that u got lubang to look for M20B25 :nyehehe: !!

Hem... will talk to u on nex TT at SHOWRU ;) .
 
Update...

Lower Arm Control PU Bushes -
Squeking sound finally disappear (although it can still be noticed when going over bumps but much better now) after trying for 3rd times - second time last only few days, later found out that the bracket which holds the lower arm bush was not properly sitted into its position, luckily this didn't spoil the bushes.

Rear Diff -
Last week only got chance to check the ratio on previous unit - 3.45. The used unit currently using is 4.45 :blink: !!! No wonder rpm so high even only doing 100km/h. Actually 4.45 Diff should be for what model ah?

Engine -
Sigh... not enough $$$ to change to M20B25 liao :cry: , got to remain using my existing L-Jet M20B20, but will need to do some repairs.
Here are the problems that haven't solved (& some newer problems):
1. Oil leak to Air Fliter.

2. Noisy Valve Guide.

3. Abnormal engine temperature, occasionally goes up nearly 3/4 and stay there for quite some time, even travelling 90 - 100km/h on highway (happen since last month).

4. Losing coolant every 6-7 days with no sign of water leakage (happen since last 3 weeks).

5. Abnormal idling speed, rpm shoot up to 1,500 - 1,800 during cold start, and stays above 1,000rpm at working temperature (happen since last month). Mechanic said it's due to Air Slide Valve failure. Any idea how much this thing cost (new)? Is there any member has used unit to let go?


Other problems:
6. Stiff gear change. Engaging 1st gear is almost impossible if the car was not use for few days. If use daily also occasional stuck in 3rd gear, will need to use little bit force to pull it down.

7. Power Steering sometimes not functioning, kadang-kala power assisted, kadang-kala heavy (Steering Rack had been repaired on April 05). Mechanic adviced to change Power Steering Pump, but I prefer repairing it. Still looking for someone who can do it.

8. Steering bush cracked, noticed it this morning!!

9. Power window (behind driver's side) malfunction, previously replaced a used motor but last only 2 months.

10. Seat cover worn out.

11. Cracked L+R Grille and Kidney Grille, thanx to knocking a steel bumper PROTONG SAGA :D .

12. Faded Headlamp.

13. Body rust here & there, especially floor panel.

14. Faded Paintwork.

WANTED - $$$$$$ :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
Originally posted by Fuhrer@Jul 3 2005, 03:02 PM
wowsers what a list dude!!
Ya loh!

That's why everyday scratching my head trying to look for good & fair price w/shop :D :D !!
 
wow... no problems dude....

can be solve easily except the rusted on the floor panel only can't help!!

No worries...
 
Juz received advice from Stuttgart - no need to replace Air Slide Valve, can by pass it. Has anyone try this? May I know what are the consequences?

Thanx.

Regards,
cklim
 
Oh man, your car sounds as bad as mine was.

Just wait till you're rushing to get your visa done because you're two days overstayed and your engine goes "POW" on the highway before the toll to Subang Jaya. Well, that won't happen to anyone else, as i'm sure it was quite a unique situation, but i'm just trying to say it could be worse. :D

My engine had the same problem as yours, weird idling, and at one point the engine would die everytime i take the gear out and it drops to idle. This was really annoying, imagine having to have your foot on constant heel-toe position in a traffic jam for an hour or two. Anyway, combined with the oil spewing out from my air-filter and a funny chaffing sound somewhere in the engine, the only recommendations i got was to go for a total overhaul or buy a new engine.
 
Good luck wei! show me your car after all those stuff kautim k...wanna ask you a few question on restoration as im gonna do mine
 
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