e36 328 auto - need help

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RRRR

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Hi SifusI just converted my e36 320 to e36 328 5spd auto.I find that the torque is not as good (ie car feels heavier depsite no changes made to wheel size etc - only engine bay different). Need to rev up to 2500 - 2800 before can feel the gear change up.Is this rpm normal or something is not done correctly or parts shd be changed?If nothing seem to be wrong, what mod can I do to improve the torque?Appreciate any constructive adviceThanks in advance
 
all depends on what box are you running on ...is the entire conversion parts being transfered properly ...wiring looms ?? ecu ??
 
When you did the swap, have you checked the crank & cam sensors ? Vanos jamm? Gear change delay and lack of torque is 2 different issues. Did you change your rear differential or was it maintained from your 320i? 320i Auto should be the smaller casing with 4.44 and 328i Auto should be using the mid case with 3.91.
 
ICEMAN 13;739459 said:
all depends on what box are you running on ...is the entire conversion parts being transfered properly ...wiring looms ?? ecu ??

Conversion was done with full trf from a 328 halfcut and entire drivetrain so believe wiring loom n ecu are correct....

thanks bro
 
V-Man;739462 said:
When you did the swap, have you checked the crank & cam sensors ? Vanos jamm? Gear change delay and lack of torque is 2 different issues. Did you change your rear differential or was it maintained from your 320i? 320i Auto should be the smaller casing with 4.44 and 328i Auto should be using the mid case with 3.91.

I replaced the cam and crank senors with new ones and rear diff shd be 328. Maybe vanos jammed - gotta go check this.

Thanks bro

Maybe I shd test drive a original 328 to check if the torque is really better than my converted version.....
 
RRRR it could be other factors as well. when your gearbox change at 2500 - 2800 is it a smooth change or reluctant change? it could be a typical sign that the auto gear box having issues already. torque convertor could be jammed?
 
slyder;740438 said:
RRRR it could be other factors as well. when your gearbox change at 2500 - 2800 is it a smooth change or reluctant change? it could be a typical sign that the auto gear box having issues already. torque convertor could be jammed?


Hi Bro

It feels like a reluctant change to me and the gear change is obvious from 1st to 2nd gear.

Assuming its auto gbox issue &/or torque convertor problem? What is the likely repair costs?

Thanks
 
It depends on the make of your gearbox. Since you said yours was a 5 speed auto, should be a ZF gearbox as japan never produce 328 from what i understand. ZF repair kits cost quite a fair bit. think might be from 2.5k to 5 k range. Not too sure as have never done it myself. Might need the seniors and sifus to advice.
 
slyder;740682 said:
It depends on the make of your gearbox. Since you said yours was a 5 speed auto, should be a ZF gearbox as japan never produce 328 from what i understand. ZF repair kits cost quite a fair bit. think might be from 2.5k to 5 k range. Not too sure as have never done it myself. Might need the seniors and sifus to advice.

My mech told me my gbox is GM.... Rougher feel but more hardy. True or not?

Btw for 328 auto, is revving to 2500-2800 normal before gear will change up? if not anyone know what is the correct rev range?

Thanks for sharing bro
 
I drove a 318 and a 328 auto.

318 actually felt lighter at first gear and during take-off compared to the 328. Only if you really tekan the 328 feels stronger. Might be cause of the rear differential ratios... but 5-speed auto havent tried before...

Either way, the E36 5-speed gearboxes are known to be more problematic than the 4-speeds... and I thought 5 speeds only came in Japan spec 320s ?
 
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