m40 Manual gear box making sound!!!

[berserkdroid]

Oil in the bell housing is usually due to a worn crankshaft seal at the back of the engine, part # 10 in this illistration:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ52&mospid=47273&btnr=11_1154&hg=11&fg=10

And what Fabian said is correct, coz that's what we did...

 

[jumpman]

Does this happen with all gears? Check your gearbox mounting first. Also make sure your clutch hydraulic seals (both master and slave cylinders) are okay and not letting fluid through the seals, resulting in a not fully disengaged clutch.

If you double clutch and there's no grinding, its the syncros...

It happens mainly on gears 2 and 3. More apparent on downshifting. What do you mean by double clutching ? pump the clutch pedal twice and shift ?

Oh yea..sorry bro Aero..hijack ur thread for a bit, since it kinda relates on the same issue.

 

[Aero]

Oil in the bell housing is usually due to a worn crankshaft seal at the back of the engine, part # 10 in this illistration:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ52&mospid=47273&btnr=11_1154&hg=11&fg=10

And what Fabian said is correct, coz that's what we did...

do you still remember how much it cost for the bearing,am afraid if once the bearing is out and cannot find a replacement then we cnnot use back the bearing taken out?

Thanks fabian for the tips, the question is still how much?

Cheers

 

[fabianyee]

see this thread from 2007

http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12657

 

[Aero]

see this thread from 2007

http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12657

Thanks fabian, i did try to contact jonathan the one that refurbish his gear box, there was no respond, if you can get his/her contact would definately help a lot.

Thanks.

 

[berserkdroid]

What do you mean by double clutching ? pump the clutch pedal twice and shift ?

From Wikipedia:
A double clutch (also called a double declutch) is a driving procedure primarily used for vehicles with an unsynchronized manual transmission. The double clutching technique involves the following steps:

• The clutch pedal is pressed, the throttle is released, and the gearbox is shifted into neutral.
• The clutch pedal is then released. As the engine idles with no load, the RPM will decrease until they are at a level suitable for shifting into the next gear.
• The driver then depresses the clutch again and shifts into the next gear. The whole manoeuvre can, with practice, take no more than a fraction of a second, and the result is a very smooth gear change.

do you still remember how much it cost for the bearing,am afraid if once the bearing is out and cannot find a replacement then we cnnot use back the bearing taken out?

Thanks fabian for the tips, the question is still how much?

Cheers

Can't remember offhand as we bought a bunch of them together, but its not too expensive. The bearing is available at good bearing dealers nationwide.

The clutch release bearing also is quite easy to find. Bavarian, Innerpower etc all stock it.

Here's a pic of a new clutch bearing, taken today:

 

[Aero]

From Wikipedia:
A double clutch (also called a double declutch) is a driving procedure primarily used for vehicles with an unsynchronized manual transmission. The double clutching technique involves the following steps:

• The clutch pedal is pressed, the throttle is released, and the gearbox is shifted into neutral.
• The clutch pedal is then released. As the engine idles with no load, the RPM will decrease until they are at a level suitable for shifting into the next gear.
• The driver then depresses the clutch again and shifts into the next gear. The whole manoeuvre can, with practice, take no more than a fraction of a second, and the result is a very smooth gear change.




Can't remember offhand as we bought a bunch of them together, but its not too expensive. The bearing is available at good bearing dealers nationwide.

The clutch release bearing also is quite easy to find. Bavarian, Innerpower etc all stock it.

Here's a pic of a new clutch bearing, taken today:

Clutch bearing is not an issue, have check they have in stock,as well as the seal all have stock, however for the other they do not have it, if not mistaken all in total is 2 bearing one for input and one for output, or it is the other hand 4 as mention by the attach tread.

i need the other bearing to be confirm, it is just normal bearing or special design?

berserkdroid, care to explain what are to remove in order to replace the seal and also bearing if you still remember the steps.

Thanks

 

[berserkdroid]

Bro i have PMed you my number. Call me.

 

[Aero]

great talking to you, will wait for your good news.

 

[anakin]

Seems like Jonathan is no longer in the forum...cannot find the said workshop in Taman Sri Gombak where he did the gearbox rebuild...went to M Scope, but they only do autos...any advice?

 

[Aero]

Seems like Jonathan is no longer in the forum...cannot find the said workshop in Taman Sri Gombak where he did the gearbox rebuild...went to M Scope, but they only do autos...any advice?

Might be true, am searching for him to through pm and there were no reply.

 

[berserkdroid]

Aero, FYI (circa 2008):

Basic Overhaul:
Shaft Oil Seals (one in the front, one at the back) - 2 pcs - 156.00
Shaft Roller Bearing - 2 pcs (one in front, one in the back) - 346.00
Countershaft Bearing & Roller Bush - 290.00
"O" Ring and seals - 62.00

Additional (if needed):
Gear Shim (1 set) - 93.00
Reverse Gear Shaft Cages - 97.00

Optional:
Reverse Gear Slot Spring - 65.00
Fly Wheel Oil Seal - 78.00

 

[Aero]

Aero, FYI (circa 2008):

Basic Overhaul:
Shaft Oil Seals (one in the front, one at the back) - 2 pcs - 156.00 [ok]
Shaft Roller Bearing - 2 pcs (one in front, one in the back) - 346.00 [ok]
Countershaft Bearing & Roller Bush - 290.00 [?]
"O" Ring and seals - 62.00 [?]

Additional (if needed):
Gear Shim (1 set) - 93.00 [?]
Reverse Gear Shaft Cages - 97.00 [?]

Optional:
Reverse Gear Slot Spring - 65.00 [?]
Fly Wheel Oil Seal - 78.00

[ok]

the one i state ok i know where is it, while ? need to understand more,those in ? can it be purchase in bearing shop too,how do we know if it need to be change.

Thanks for the infor.
Thanks

 

[berserkdroid]

Countershaft Bearing & Roller Bush - Parts 24 & 25
Reverse Gear Shaft Cages - part 28

As shown here:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ52&mospid=47273&btnr=23_0520&hg=23&fg=15

The "O" Ring and seals we changed were in various locations, decision to change was based on visual inspection. The same went for the Reverse Gear Shaft Cages, Gear Shim set (had a bunch of shims in them, replaced the ones in the gearbox that were severely worn).

The Reverse Gear Slot Spring (actually just a compression spring) is the one at the back of the box part # 8, very hard to find with the correct compression rating. If i am not mistaken we finally got it from a store selling tractor parts...

The Fly Wheel Oil Seal is # 10 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ52&mospid=47273&btnr=11_1154&hg=11&fg=10

Note that the parts to be changed varies from gearbox to gearbox, the above notes are in relation to mine only.

 

[anakin]

Deep...where is the mechanic? DIY?

 

[berserkdroid]

Deep...where is the mechanic? DIY?

Mechanic friend in Cheras bro, Cuepacs area (near the kem polis area). We both DIY the gearbox just for the hell of it.

BTW when doing this, wear safety goggles...

 

[Aero]

Mechanic friend in Cheras bro, Cuepacs area (near the kem polis area). We both DIY the gearbox just for the hell of it.

BTW when doing this, wear safety goggles...

When you gut it, it just explode on you face.....hehe.

Hope my mechanic can do it if not it will be worse then current.

 

[rockonla]

sorry to hijack but my clutch pedal seems to be softer and softer by each pump...and the clutch seems shorter. is there any way to know what causes this...i dont see any leaks on the fluid front. please help...very hard to engage reverse and 1st gear. i had to double pump just to engage the gears. i only noticed it for the past 2 days.

 

[fabianyee]

sorry to hijack but my clutch pedal seems to be softer and softer by each pump...and the clutch seems shorter. is there any way to know what causes this...i dont see any leaks on the fluid front. please help...very hard to engage reverse and 1st gear. i had to double pump just to engage the gears. i only noticed it for the past 2 days.

check for leaks in the 2 clutch pumps, one at the pedals, the other one at the gearbox... top up the clutch pump fluid too... and better to check soon, if it fluid gets too low, u'll lose the hydraulics and can't engage gear at all..

 

[rockonla]

thanks fabian, ive topped up the fluid and so far it is running ok...will still have a check on it with my local mech, thanks again mate