E36 M43 - what went wrong?

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i did test the crank sensor like this... engine off with the negative cable of the battery unpluged.

check the resistance between pin 1 and 2. my mutlimeter shows 300 +/- 5 ohms only.

so can i conclute the sensor fault?


Btw, refer to you pic above. can i use the coil in the car itself? i mean i disconnect the wire's at the positive and negative terminal on the coil, pull a new wire direct from battery to connect to that terminals (with a switch in between the positive wire). then i ON the switch to check the spark?
 
datsunnismo;422684 said:
i did test the crank sensor like this... engine off with the negative cable of the battery unpluged.

check the resistance between pin 1 and 2. my mutlimeter shows 300 +/- 5 ohms only.

so can i conclute the sensor fault?


Btw, refer to you pic above. can i use the coil in the car itself? i mean i disconnect the wire's at the positive and negative terminal on the coil, pull a new wire direct from battery to connect to that terminals (with a switch in between the positive wire). then i ON the switch to check the spark?

You have to disconnect the connector for the crankshaft sensor in order to check. Ohms should be around 1280 ohms. If I am not mistaken, the reading wold be affected if a metal is near the pickup head.

You you can disconnect the connector at the primary side of the coil and make your own circuit. In order to generate the spark, you just touch the positive terminal momentary to the "+" of the primary side.
 
You have to disconnect the connector for the crankshaft sensor in order to check. Ohms should be around 1280 ohms. If I am not mistaken, the reading wold be affected if a metal is near the pickup head

i've disconnect the connector below the intake manifold and check. or should i take out the sensor out and do the testing?

You you can disconnect the connector at the primary side of the coil and make your own circuit. In order to generate the spark, you just touch the positive terminal momentary to the "+" of the primary side.

ok i'll do the testing once i reach home.

btw, is't advisable to replace a used unit crank sensor. check the new price comes to rm 210.00 (hella)
 
It OK to use a recon crankshaft sensor for testing purpose. But advise to change it to new once you get you car going.

The crankshaft sensor is located very near the engine. the heat generated from the engine will reduce the lifespan of the sensor.
 
i went to few chopshops today looking for the sensor, managed to find few. but the cable is very hard. worried about the condition.

is there any other place where i can get new unit at better price? any contact numbers.....
 
datsunnismo;422843 said:
i went to few chopshops today looking for the sensor, managed to find few. but the cable is very hard. worried about the condition.

is there any other place where i can get new unit at better price? any contact numbers.....

Bavaria Auto in Klang. It just opposite Klang High School (Primary). Just next to New Pantai Car Showroom and same block as HSL (Hock Sin Leong).

Address: 1006 Jalan Meru, Klang Tel:03-3343 0622 / 4622. Manager: Mr Lee

You can call up for quotation and stock availability.
 
thanks bro...

i've checked with the same guy. quoted rm210 (hella)

tot can get cheaper thn this....
 
datsunnismo;422936 said:
thanks bro...

i've checked with the same guy. quoted rm210 (hella)

tot can get cheaper thn this....

Have you try the chopshop along Jalan Meru. I think it called Klang Auto. It situated on the right side of the road at the corner lot. I think it after Bata and near the turning for the toll back to Klang.
 
thanks bro...

i've checked with the same guy. quoted rm210 (hella)

tot can get cheaper thn this....
 
bought new new crank sensor today and already fixed. But didnt test to start cuz the battery was fully drain....

* the resistance between pin 1 and 2 is still 300+ ohms even in new sensor.

need help for below matters:-

why my computer box is very hot while im trying to start the car..?

normaly the main relay (located at the firewall in engine bay) will on when i turn on the key and off after i turn off the key. but today, its keep in ON position even i turn off the key. with no choice, i disconnect and reconnet the battery cable. then i try to turn on the key and off again, still it keep in ON position. then i disconnect the battery and went out.

after sometime, i when i turn on the key, the main relay doesn't on. but the relay in good condition, tsted.
 
my fuel pump not working when the main relay doesnt ON. even with the key on.

try to crank many many times. still my baby doesnt wake up.


maybe need to tow the car..... so sad.

the thing i dont understand, i just service the afm and clean the dist cap. but now the main rely dont want to ON. sakit kepala!!!
 
datsunnismo;423724 said:
my fuel pump not working when the main relay doesnt ON. even with the key on.

try to crank many many times. still my baby doesnt wake up.


maybe need to tow the car..... so sad.

the thing i dont understand, i just service the afm and clean the dist cap. but now the main rely dont want to ON. sakit kepala!!!

Bro, I will send to you via email extract of the bentley manual. it will help you to troubleshoot the problem.

1. Ignition. - 920 KB
2. Starting - 1.2 MB
3. Fuel Injection - 5 MB
4. Fuel Pump. - 1.8 MB

BTW, have you charge your battery properly. Sometime low voltage cause the electronic to go crazy.

Tips: if you dont have a external charger.
I have my Toshiba laptop which is 15VDC output/ 6 amp to charge my battery.
Just be careful not to overcharge it. Not more than 12 hours is required. or when you see the electrolyte in the battery is bubbling very violently. Do you chrging in a well ventilated area as hydrogen gas is given out during charging.
 
mailreceived. many thanks bro,.....

battery: i charge the battery in my brother's car.meaning to say, i replace my e30 battery to my bro's wira 4g91 and use the wira for a day. and when i replace back to my e30, it can crank like normal. and all other electric equipment works fine like power window and all.

means, can i say the battery is ok?
 
finaly tow my car to M sport. the work shop introduced by one of the forumer...
View attachment 9223

After nearly one hour the mech confirmed the problem is CEU.
View attachment 9224

can the e36 m40 ecu match with e30?
heard somewhere there're people repairing the ecu. how reliable and the estimate cost....

thanks....
 
dont know la bro..... i dont know wht i did until this thing happen. btw, pls advice

can the e36 m40 ecu match with e30?
heard somewhere there're people repairing the ecu. how reliable and the estimate cost....

when i open the ecu and noticed the tho resistor which is related to main relay control has burn. and dont know wht else has gone...
 
datsunnismo;424685 said:
dont know la bro..... i dont know wht i did until this thing happen. btw, pls advice

can the e36 m40 ecu match with e30?
heard somewhere there're people repairing the ecu. how reliable and the estimate cost....

Best is to get the correct ECU. It is not so difficult to get the ECU from chopshop for E36 M40 engine.

Please take note the fuel map for different car is program differently even for different cc.
eg 318 and 320. - both might be e36 and m40 engine. You might not get the best optimum operation for the engine management but you can start the car. My advise why go thru such trouble to find out later that your fuel consumption and power is affected due to different ECU.
 
thanks bro jarance...

thanks for the advice. ur right... even can start, but we dont know how much reliable... :)

ANYBODY SELLING E30 M40 ECU???
 
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