E36 M43 - what went wrong?

[jarance]

thanks...

pic no 1
- directly place s.plug on coil. GOT SPARK

pic 2
- s.plug connected to the cable from the COIL. GOT SPARK

pic 3
- s.plug connected to the cable #1. NO SPARK

pic 4
- s.plusg connected at the cap itself (cable #2). NO SPARK

Pic 1 - Got sparks show that the HT Ignition Coil is working. hence your crankshaft sensor is working.

Pic 2 - show that spark plug is connected from the coil just before entering the distributor. This test will determine that the HT cable from coil to distributor is OK. (good test)

pic 3 - Is that with the HT cable connect from the coil to the centre of the distributor cap & the HT cable from the distributor cap to spark plug holder (with the spark plug at the end.) - No sparks show that either the HT cable from distributor cap to engine is faulty or distributor is faulty.


pic 4 - show the HT cable is bypass to check the distributor condition. No sparks means that the distributor cap is faulty.

Based on the above test 1 to 4, you have proved that the spark is not flow from coil to the 4 terminals.
You have to open the distributor cap and check whether you have mounted the distributor rotor arm properly. Take a picture of the rotor arm and internal of the distributor cap.

 

[jarance]

so, there's a current flow from coil to the cap. but can't distribute to terminal. can i conclude like this..?

YES, you can say that. check the distributor cap and the rotor arm.

 

[jarance]

Here is a pic of the rotor arm

Here is the internal of the Dist Cap.. (Sorry it for Six Cylinder)

 

[datsunnismo]

thanks for the pic...

here're mine..

View attachment 9128
View attachment 9129
View attachment 9130

 

[datsunnismo]

errr... bro,

does AFM got anything to do with this problem...?

 

[jarance]

bro are you staying in Klang? I am staying in Klang? Maybe I drop by your place on Sunday to have a look?

I dont the problem have anything to do with AFM. You can actually start the car without the AFM.

Check whether you have continunity from the internal to the external terminals first.

 

[datsunnismo]

im working in klg...
kampung at kuala selangor.

will shift to klg in one two months time...

car at kampung la.

any advice wht to do next...?

 

[jarance]

im working in klg...
kampung at kuala selangor.

will shift to klg in one two months time...

car at kampung la.

any advice wht to do next...?

Your problem is at the distributor cap.

You have HT Voltage from the coil going into the Distributor Cap but it is not coming out.

I think it quite easy to solve.

1. Bad contact or the centre spring load is not touching the rotor arm.

2. Rotor arm is either not mounted properly.

3. rotor arm is not rotating and distributing the HT voltage.

4. HT coil terminal is open circuit to the spring loaded contact.

It should be quite easy to find out why the spark is not coming out from the distibutor cap.

BTW, can you check whether there is leakage or crack on the dist cap.

 

[datsunnismo]

just to clarify....

when i did the test as per my pic1 and pic2, the spark came out only once. and i turn the key off and cranck again, the spark came once again. is't the way it should be?

 

[jarance]

just to clarify....

when i did the test as per my pic1 and pic2, the spark came out only once. and i turn the key off and cranck again, the spark came once again. is't the way it should be?

Only one shot spark... That strange!!! Maybe your mechanic is right.. your crankshaft sensor could be faulty.

I dont know if you should try this cos I havent try this procedure myself. It is just theory only..

Your ignition coil is basicallly a step up transformer. If you look at at there are two terminals on it beside the high tension terminal. If you can pulse the positive end of the primary side, you should be able to generate an spark as per test as shown in pic 1 & 2. If you can align the distributor rotor at the right angle then you should be able to generate a spark at the HT to the engine. This will eliminate the distributor cap problem. you can crank the engine abit to realign to the next terminal and conduct similar test.

sorry I have never encounter your problem before..

 

[datsunnismo]

i try to open the cap and put a rotor inside it and spark plug at one of the terminal. result: got spark.

View attachment 9144

fix the rotor and the cap back to the engine and crank, cant start.

remove the cable from the cap and did the test like in the pic 4, still no spark.

suspect that the spring loaded carbon is the cuprit. can get it new from the s/part dealers?

 

[datsunnismo]

i've change the spring loaded carbon to another used unit. took out from datsun 120y distributor cap. same diameter and the length is better.

no improvement. still the same.

 

[datsunnismo]

Only one shot spark... That strange!!! Maybe your mechanic is right.. your crankshaft sensor could be faulty.

I dont know if you should try this cos I havent try this procedure myself. It is just theory only..

Your ignition coil is basicallly a step up transformer. If you look at at there are two terminals on it beside the high tension terminal. If you can pulse the positive end of the primary side, you should be able to generate an spark as per test as shown in pic 1 & 2. If you can align the distributor rotor at the right angle then you should be able to generate a spark at the HT to the engine. This will eliminate the distributor cap problem. you can crank the engine abit to realign to the next terminal and conduct similar test.

sorry I have never encounter your problem before..

bro... can u pls elaborate it. cant really catch up.

will test the crankshaft sensor and update.

 

[datsunnismo]

was unplug the crank sensor cable ( below inlet manifold) and noticed 3 pins....

any advice how to test? was told to use the multimeter and crank the engine.

 

[jarance]

was unplug the crank sensor cable ( below inlet manifold) and noticed 3 pins....

any advice how to test? was told to use the multimeter and crank the engine.

 

[datsunnismo]

hello sifu jarance...

many many thanks for ur help.

btw, just now i unplug the crank sensor connector(below the inlet manifold) and and did the test like in the pic. result: still can spark once. but car didnt start. no different with and w/out the c/sensor connection.

 

[jarance]

hello sifu jarance...

many many thanks for ur help.

btw, just now i unplug the crank sensor connector(below the inlet manifold) and and did the test like in the pic. result: still can spark once. but car didnt start. no different with and w/out the c/sensor connection.

I think it better to change the crankshaft sensor. As mentioned, the crankshaft sensor will disable the sparking if it did not detect the rotation of the crankshaft.

 

[turbology]

Just a suggestion, try to ground your spark using using the "thread on the spark plugs". Try avoid the "body"
If you are not get spark from cranking, maybe the spark "has jumped" before reaching the electrode (tip of spark plugs)
Looking for "leaking spark".

 

[jarance]

Just a suggestion, try to ground your spark using using the "thread on the spark plugs". Try avoid the "body"
If you are not get spark from cranking, maybe the spark "has jumped" before reaching the electrode (tip of spark plugs)
Looking for "leaking spark".

bro, he is getting the spark but one shot ONLY..

 

[jarance]

bro... can u pls elaborate it. cant really catch up.

will test the crankshaft sensor and update.

Basically trying to set up the circuit as follows:-

and do the test without cranking the engine.

The above test will determine whether the sparks can travel from:-
1. the ignition coil to distributor cap
2. from distributor cap thru the rotor arm
3. from rotor arm (flash over) to terminal contact.
4. from terminal contact thru HT cable to spark plug.