car coating
- Thread starter david72
- Start date
-
Click here to become an Official Member of BMW Club Malaysia Download Form
kuntakinte
Club Guest
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2008
- Messages
- 381
- Points
- 0
Just wondering if it's practical to fully clear wrap a car? The slightest of tear will make the defect obvious and certainly is not repairable, unlike a paint job. With a wrap, you would probably have to redo the entire panel.
I'd rather do a paint job after a couple of years especially on the bumper area after a barrage of stone chips.
I'd rather do a paint job after a couple of years especially on the bumper area after a barrage of stone chips.
Not wrapping the whole car, just the entire front, which means bumpers, bonet, headlamps, fog lights, and I'm also wrapping the side mirrors, decided against the door handles as that is too obvious unless I wrap the whole car. It's not a computer cut which is why I went for it, but it's more expensive though. I saw about 4 different options elsewhere and those are all computer cut so you can very obviously see lining where the film is applied. The guys at Autodetailer does a proper wrap around, so no exposed lining 
kuntakinte
Club Guest
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2008
- Messages
- 381
- Points
- 0
Here's some extra info on coating vs filming
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/car-detailing-forums/443118-advise-please-coating-first-or-paint-protection-film-first.html
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/car-detailing-forums/443118-advise-please-coating-first-or-paint-protection-film-first.html
kuntakinte
Club Guest
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2008
- Messages
- 381
- Points
- 0
After reading thru the above thread, the inherent conclusion seems to be that
- unless one uses a good reputable film like 3M or oraguard, mediocre or unknown ones tend to fade, discolor, stain faster. And they could be a bitch to remove after some time, with the glue clinging to the paintwork. However, even 3M films will eventually succumbed to abuse and the environment too.
- the film is expected to be changed as denoted by the weather and stone chip abuse which will scratch, swirl and tear the film and make it look unsightly. Not unless you hit a larger pebble or rock with force, your original paint should be protected though.
- so, whichever choice of film one chooses, eventually, you will have to decide whether to repaint or recoat a new film eventually. So, my question is then, why waste the money. A new coat of paint on affected panels will not be any more expensive than a film, no? Plus, there are quick good touch up paint tools for the initial minor emergency jobs www.ezytouchup.com. Also, good paint shops nowadays use computer controlled color mixing technology to reduce color shading differences between panels and the results are usually very good and not easily spotted with the naked eye
For me, I'll use the film coat on the main headlights and spotlights (where touch up and restoration is more difficult to achieve) and the door edges. For the rest of the car, a normal paint coating like ceramic pro will do
- unless one uses a good reputable film like 3M or oraguard, mediocre or unknown ones tend to fade, discolor, stain faster. And they could be a bitch to remove after some time, with the glue clinging to the paintwork. However, even 3M films will eventually succumbed to abuse and the environment too.
- the film is expected to be changed as denoted by the weather and stone chip abuse which will scratch, swirl and tear the film and make it look unsightly. Not unless you hit a larger pebble or rock with force, your original paint should be protected though.
- so, whichever choice of film one chooses, eventually, you will have to decide whether to repaint or recoat a new film eventually. So, my question is then, why waste the money. A new coat of paint on affected panels will not be any more expensive than a film, no? Plus, there are quick good touch up paint tools for the initial minor emergency jobs www.ezytouchup.com. Also, good paint shops nowadays use computer controlled color mixing technology to reduce color shading differences between panels and the results are usually very good and not easily spotted with the naked eye
For me, I'll use the film coat on the main headlights and spotlights (where touch up and restoration is more difficult to achieve) and the door edges. For the rest of the car, a normal paint coating like ceramic pro will do
Just my 2 cents on this:
I'm using 3M film to protect my headlights, fog lamps, door handles where your nails will come in contact when opening and lastly the door sides where you open and sometimes kiss the wall or other people's car.
So far only the door sides are starting to show especially at the edges but for everywhere else it still looks like new.
Just remember to tell those people who will polish/wax/coat your car...
I'm using 3M film to protect my headlights, fog lamps, door handles where your nails will come in contact when opening and lastly the door sides where you open and sometimes kiss the wall or other people's car.
So far only the door sides are starting to show especially at the edges but for everywhere else it still looks like new.
Just remember to tell those people who will polish/wax/coat your car...
kuntakinte
Club Guest
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2008
- Messages
- 381
- Points
- 0
I had a similar film setup as yours on my a6h. Worked beautifully too and it was included free with my 3M crystalline security tint then. Will get the vendor to do the film coating on my headlamps etc soon. He used an American brand Which brand I can't rememberseancorr said:
Contact Red Tub Auto Detailing for COATING/DETAILING packages.. 019-2225062.. Their price is also reasonable.. They have few coating for u to choose from such as ceramic coating (9H thickness),glass coating,poly coating and etc.. They have few branches here in kl.. And they do plastidip aswell.. The best part is they do house to house services!
