Rebuilding the M54B30

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turbology;463488 said:
I thought you are not suppose to stay at constant RPM when running in engine ?

Refer back to my quote, a 9.0:1 engine with bad tune are as bad, or worse, then a 11.0:1 car. Running a lower CR, with give you more BUFFER for error, but is not going to solve the knock. When the engine detect knock, it will retard. But when you are the lower map of "retard", and still having knock, you are deadend.
With your constant knocking case, I strong believe the tune is off. Or, the air intake temperature is very high (before the turbo). Or the intercooler is not doing enough.
Does running Toluene mix help ? How about spray some water, or even ICE, on intercooler to see if knock goes away?

Previous youtube video, i remember that brand is a Wideband O2. Just to be sure, is it ?
You can just throw away the narrowband O2 sensor.
Besides having a AFR as a guage for "safety measure", have you consider the EGT (exhaust gas temperature) guage ? Is part of the tunning "factor" as well, besides the Lambha O2 sensor.

The spark plugs tip looks just fine, matching with the reading of the AFR. If is running really lean, the tips will be very clean with rainbow color.

For what I know, and came across, running the oil cooler will help but is not going to solve your problem.
Your piston failure is definately detonation, and my theory, the root cause is heat. Or the particular gas station is not honest about thier V-power.

Cheers.

p/s: psss... check your PM :D

The biggest challenge in installing forced induction units is getting the tune right, more so in a tropical country like Malaysia, where humidity is high and ambient temperature is high.

Lowering the compression ratio to 9.0:1 may solve the problem, but you will lose out on the response and ultimately the hp gain. There are some sites, that could generate some estimated hp calculation given the compression ratio + turbine pressure = Effective Compression = Engine HP.

The current trend is to use forced induction with high compression engines, like the Golf GTi, BMW 335i and etc. High compression engines with forced induction will generate a lot more low end torque with little lag. The 335i runs with 10.5 compression ratio with a 0.8 bar (about 11.8 psi)turbo boost.

It is even more crucial (in my opinion) to run higher compression in a supercharger setup, given the fact that the supercharger will ONLY generate maximum boost at the redline unlike a turbocharger. In other words, at low rpm with the lower compression engine, you could worse off than running NA, and only gain torque possibly at the midrange + top end.

Hope your engine will run well this time around, it has been sitting at Fatty's shop for ages :)

Cheers
 
ess530i;463865 said:
they are pauter rods... supposedly good. the black coating is "moly" but notice the wear on the 2nd last piston which fatty used to rebore the cylinders... not sure if its normal. hopefully the ceramic coat will last...

jo-e34... i paid RM150/cylinder for the ceramic + moly coating. then there are some things men don't talk about... like how much we have spent on our cars so far hehe...

Well, the way how I see it: Compare to what woman can spent on jewellery and shoes, what we spent on cars are just tip of iceberg....hehehe

I know the ceramic coating is to prevent "hotspot" and etc, what does moly coating do ?

Can you get quenching for you pistons & rods, and do a magnaflux on your block ?
The "black line" on cylinder wall look suspicious :D

ALBundy;463867 said:
The current trend is to use forced induction with high compression engines, like the Golf GTi, BMW 335i and etc. High compression engines with forced induction will generate a lot more low end torque with little lag. The 335i runs with 10.5 compression ratio with a 0.8 bar (about 11.8 psi)turbo boost.

It is even more crucial (in my opinion) to run higher compression in a supercharger setup, given the fact that the supercharger will ONLY generate maximum boost at the redline unlike a turbocharger. In other words, at low rpm with the lower compression engine, you could worse off than running NA, and only gain torque possibly at the midrange + top end.

Can't agree more.
Me myself are not a big fan of "lower your CR to get more boost"

Cheers
 
the main reason i lowered the compression is to get more reliability by reducing knock, not to increase boost. i was very happy with the SC boosting at 0.7bar. i was initially worried about loss of power & driveability at the lower end but after few days of driving i find that it is even better than before... cant wait to boost the engine

btw i've read about overheating issues with 335i and that's in colder climate countries... could be worse here in malaysia
 
ess530i;463865 said:
they are pauter rods... supposedly good. the black coating is "moly" but notice the wear on the 2nd last piston which fatty used to rebore the cylinders... not sure if its normal. hopefully the ceramic coat will last...
saw the conrods and pistons at the workshop. dem they look nice. almost too nice to go into the engine...
 
if that car's too long in fatty's place, I'm gonna start taking parts piece by piece. hahahahah
 
ess530i;463466 said:
leforte... my lifesaver :) pls reserve a set of the oil cooler for me and let me know when you're back...


supergripen... maybe you can consider the engine oil cooler kit too :)

Hi Richard..its been a while.Its good to see ur car is up and running again..pretty serious stuffs u got goin'.

I won't be doing any more mods to my e60 i think..it's been nominated my family runabout and long distance runner so I'm pretty happy with the 300bhp that my TS2 puts out.Future work on the car will be for the ICE and comfort items only:wink:

Gonna concentrate on a certain Nissan that I'll be getting pretty soon:evil:..can't wait to touge the car..
 
ess530i;463891 said:
btw i've read about overheating issues with 335i and that's in colder climate countries... could be worse here in malaysia

Is the overheating due to high compression ratio or inadequate cooling???
 
ALBundy;464038 said:
Is the overheating due to high compression ratio or inadequate cooling???

no sure maybe abit of both.

for a stock boost 335 they seem ok.... but for a remapped 335, the oil and water temp does get abit hotter and it seems the oil cooler from the factory can be abit too small. i had to changed one on a client's car with an aftermarket unit after a remapped. all seems well for now. an intercooler upgrade is also available for better charge air cooling and timing advance for power, this is definitely a must have ifyou are planning to remap it with anything higher than a stage 2
 
supergripen;464006 said:
Hi Richard..its been a while.Its good to see ur car is up and running again..pretty serious stuffs u got goin'.

I won't be doing any more mods to my e60 i think..it's been nominated my family runabout and long distance runner so I'm pretty happy with the 300bhp that my TS2 puts out.Future work on the car will be for the ICE and comfort items only:wink:

Gonna concentrate on a certain Nissan that I'll be getting pretty soon:evil:..can't wait to touge the car..

come touge with me and another MAS pilot driving a V9 :top:
 
just finished 5k km after the rebuild... engine oil temp is pretty normal now at 90 - 105 cruising and 110 - 115 when whacking. car feels very smooth with no signs of knocking like before

my short review: 530i + ESS TS2 + forged/lower compression pistons = a real UDM!

keepin my fingers crossed.... hope the car will provide years of reliable driving pleasure

will find time and post some dyno figures soon... need to work harder to repair the hole in my pocket first :)
 
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