Rebuilding the M54B30

[teejay]

my tots as follows:
use mineral oil and get it as thick as you can when you run in.

now looks like the smaller gap recommended by fatty may lead to some extra heat, you could extend run in period to get rings adjusted, JE makes specifics to their products for a reason.

you haveto remember your is not a NA engine, specifications for std engine dont apply to you and yes you should have posted those questions much earlier, these days ,fatty just wants to finish up fast and quick and mind you he is still on a learning process- he do sometimes calls me via pussy to get some tech info

sugest you monitor your engine oil temp and change the engine 2 times more frequent then the run in period ,each time lowering the viscosity to ease friction

menawhile get a custom made engine oil cooler for both engine and gearbox too or separates wildo, as heat does move backwards into metal when you move fast, do it right once and for all, hate to see your car in fatty's whenever i go there coz it takes up most of his time and non for the others......!!

 

[turbology]

Wow. I missed out alot. Trying to catch up with reading. Be back

 

[leforte]

ess530i

for your performance and engine cooling needs you will have to get one of this.

this is the oil cooler setup for your m54 e60.

the kit replaces the original plastic oil filter cap. high pressure filtered engine oil is routed to a appropriately sized oil cooler at the front. its about the size of your current TS2 unit. someone with a stage3 setup ran a lap with this kit at sepang and it shows consistant 15-20 C degrees drop in oil temperature at his defis. at street use, the oil temp remain almost the same as before. Just PM or call me for more info.

P/S there is a larger water radiator for your TS2 setup as well. double in capacity for higher cooling needs in a tropical climate.

 

[leforte]

the oil cooler kit pictured above is only applicable to m52 and m54 equipped cars, m50 engine not applicable > e36 e46 e39 e60 e38.

cheers.

 

[E28driver]

. wanted to do engine oil cooler but the JDM kit didn't fit. anyone who knows where i can get a BMW engine oil cooler kit? pls let me know...

Other than the oil filer cap modded to take oil cooler lines your other option is to replace your stock OFH to either the Euro OFH (the most stock looking) or use the VAC Motorsport Billet housing.

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/S...2=260078072&CategoryID=92&Target=products.asp

Check out www.vacmotorsports.com they are quite a reputable outfit and well known on Bimmer forums.

Good luck.

 

[leforte]

Other than the oil filer cap modded to take oil cooler lines your other option is to replace your stock OFH to either the Euro OFH (the most stock looking) or use the VAC Motorsport Billet housing.

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/S...2=260078072&CategoryID=92&Target=products.asp

Check out www.vacmotorsports.com they are quite a reputable outfit and well known on Bimmer forums.

Good luck.

the kit you stated above do not apply to ess530's car. applicable only to e36 cars with m50 m52 engines only. for a m54 and e60 platform specifically, major modification of the oil plumbing and machining of accessory brackets is required. do you see a m54 specific kit or e60 m54 specific kit in there? NO. there isnt one.

 

[fabianyee]

Any issues with decreased oil pressure with the cooler installed???

 

[leforte]

Any issues with decreased oil pressure with the cooler installed???

oil pressure stays constant with this kit.

 

[B33mEr]

ess530i

for your performance and engine cooling needs you will have to get one of this.

this is the oil cooler setup for your m54 e60.

the kit replaces the original plastic oil filter cap. high pressure filtered engine oil is routed to a appropriately sized oil cooler at the front. its about the size of your current TS2 unit. someone with a stage3 setup ran a lap with this kit at sepang and it shows consistant 15-20 C degrees drop in oil temperature at his defis. at street use, the oil temp remain almost the same as before. Just PM or call me for more info.

P/S there is a larger water radiator for your TS2 setup as well. double in capacity for higher cooling needs in a tropical climate.

That looks like a VPD custom billet aluminum oil filter cap with a Setrab oil cooler ... Isn't VPD is out of business?? Or is there a manufacturer that makes a similiar oil filter cap like the one shown on the pic?

p/s: how much is for the kit?

 

[ess530i]

leforte... my lifesaver pls reserve a set of the oil cooler for me and let me know when you're back...

jo-e34... i'm still running in the engine so the SC is still inactive... the slight noise during idle seem to be coming from the engine due to friction of the new parts and should go away soon

teejay... thx for the recommendation. we followed the spec for supercharged street application so it should be fine. found an interesting article on "piston ring technology" at http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/39778/advances_in_piston_ring_technology.aspx which states "The recommended ring end gap for oil rings regardless of the engine application is typically 0.015” so i should be fine

supergripen... maybe you can consider the engine oil cooler kit too

drove the car again today... cruising on highway at night at 120kmh / 6th gear / 2.5k rpm the oil temp was 95 deg C, once i slow the car down the oil temp went up to 105 deg C... very funny. could it be the oil pump / pressure?

 

[turbology]

drove the car again today... cruising on highway at night at 120kmh / 6th gear / 2.5k rpm the oil temp was 95 deg C, once i slow the car down the oil temp went up to 105 deg C... very funny. could it be the oil pump / pressure?

I thought you are not suppose to stay at constant RPM when running in engine ?

Refer back to my quote, a 9.0:1 engine with bad tune are as bad, or worse, then a 11.0:1 car. Running a lower CR, with give you more BUFFER for error, but is not going to solve the knock. When the engine detect knock, it will retard. But when you are the lower map of "retard", and still having knock, you are deadend.
With your constant knocking case, I strong believe the tune is off. Or, the air intake temperature is very high (before the turbo). Or the intercooler is not doing enough.
Does running Toluene mix help ? How about spray some water, or even ICE, on intercooler to see if knock goes away?

Previous youtube video, i remember that brand is a Wideband O2. Just to be sure, is it ?
You can just throw away the narrowband O2 sensor.
Besides having a AFR as a guage for "safety measure", have you consider the EGT (exhaust gas temperature) guage ? Is part of the tunning "factor" as well, besides the Lambha O2 sensor.

The spark plugs tip looks just fine, matching with the reading of the AFR. If is running really lean, the tips will be very clean with rainbow color.

For what I know, and came across, running the oil cooler will help but is not going to solve your problem.
Your piston failure is definately detonation, and my theory, the root cause is heat. Or the particular gas station is not honest about thier V-power.

Cheers.

p/s: psss... check your PM

 

[E28driver]

Other than the oil filer cap modded to take oil cooler lines your other option is to replace your stock OFH to either the Euro OFH (the most stock looking) or use the VAC Motorsport Billet housing.

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/S...2=260078072&CategoryID=92&Target=products.asp

Check out www.vacmotorsports.com they are quite a reputable outfit and well known on Bimmer forums.

Good luck.

This is the VAC kit that will fit M54 engines:

From the VAC website:

The Original and Best Seller!


This kit features components made in-house in the USA to our motorsports standards for superior fitment and reliability. These kits have found their way on to all of our VAC racing vehicles and vehicles around the world. Thanks to quality components; they survive for years and years on the track with no issues.

"The original and best" our kit has been upgraded and improved constantly since inception to make sure it is the easiest to install and the best functioning product available.
Super high quality A/N fittings and lines, heat exchanger and VAC CNC'ed components combined for a direct replacement/upgrade for your current setup. This systems flexibility allows it to be used by any racer as it can install in any way you wish. The addition of of an in-line thermostat allows street use without a problem.
This kit features the VAC Billet Aluminum Racing Oil Filter Housing made from 6061 T6 aluminum. The two piece design allows direct replacement of factory housing and maintains alternator and power steering in their original locations.

• Allows easy instal Dry Sump or Acu-sump Kits.
• Provides oil temp, oil pressure, and VANOS line ports.
• Excellent for F/I setups like Turbos or S/Cs that require an oil feed line.
• Supplied with AN fittings and P/S Pump Spacers.
• More than full two pounds lighter than factory housing.
• Allows for easy service of components beneath intake manifold.
• Simplifies plumbing of remote oil cooler in all applications.
• Can be used on the street with the addition of in-line thermostat and filter.
  • Fits all M50/ M52 /M52tu /S50 euro/ S50us/ S52us/ M54/ S54 engines

I have no affiliation with VAC - just passing on info.

 

[ramsing]

ess530i....good to see your car back on the road again man after some rest time so now i'll have to be on the lookout for the blue 530i terrorising the roads. we should org a meet-up agian. been a while....

 

[ALBundy]

drove the car again today... cruising on highway at night at 120kmh / 6th gear / 2.5k rpm the oil temp was 95 deg C, once i slow the car down the oil temp went up to 105 deg C... very funny. could it be the oil pump / pressure?

This is pretty much normal. When u were at a higher speed, the heat rejection is more efficient. Once you slowed down, more heat retain is retained and hence the higher oil temp. It should go down to 95 or so after awhile. Happens on my E46 as well.

One more thing, saw ur car at Fatty's workshop. The placement of the Cold Air Intake hose isn't that optimum, blocking the core of the radiator.

Cheers

 

[ramsing]

This is pretty much normal. When u were at a higher speed, the heat rejection is more efficient. Once you slowed down, more heat retain is retained and hence the higher oil temp. It should go down to 95 or so after awhile. Happens on my E46 as well.

One more thing, saw ur car at Fatty's workshop. The placement of the Cold Air Intake hose isn't that optimum, blocking the core of the radiator.

Cheers

u're oil temps are high coz u're always living in the 8000++ rpm range u also need to de-tiun u're car laaaaa...JPJ said its too fast for road use :love:

 

[ALBundy]

8000rpm?? That is autobahn speed to fatty's workshop!!!! Saw the phoenix gold ///M there.

I only drive below 3000rpm, so engine management still operates in closed loop to save fuel!!!!

 

[ess530i]

Photos

photos of the cylinder wall after rebore & the pistons... ceramic coated at the top

 

[jo-e34]

wow.....ceramic coated.......must have cost a fortune by now......how much spent so far....? man...ur loaded........=)

 

[turbology]

photos of the cylinder wall after rebore & the pistons... ceramic coated at the top

What piston rod you use ?
Seems rather "weak" compare to what I saw for FI use ;p
Like the coating :love:

 

[ess530i]

What piston rod you use ?
Seems rather "weak" compare to what I saw for FI use ;p
Like the coating :love:

they are pauter rods... supposedly good. the black coating is "moly" but notice the wear on the 2nd last piston which fatty used to rebore the cylinders... not sure if its normal. hopefully the ceramic coat will last...

jo-e34... i paid RM150/cylinder for the ceramic + moly coating. then there are some things men don't talk about... like how much we have spent on our cars so far hehe...