problem starting during cold start

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Mel279 said:
Try to replace the fuel pump relay whether it is still good or not, a cheap fix, who knows it coulds solve your problem.
I had replaced the whole fuel pump. Is the relay a different component altogether? Thanks for the suggestion.
 
borrow from bmwgm5. Location of fuel relay

2e07b9749b161.jpg
 
I suggest you try replacing the DME Main Relay (under the bonnet, passenger side). This relay controls power supply to the fuel pump relay amongst others if IIRC. I have strange intermittent starting problem and resolved by changing relay. Worth a try.
 
jarance said:
borrow from bmwgm5. Location of fuel relay

2e07b9749b161.jpg

IanDaddy said:
I suggest you try replacing the DME Main Relay (under the bonnet, passenger side). This relay controls power supply to the fuel pump relay amongst others if IIRC. I have strange intermittent starting problem and resolved by changing relay. Worth a try.
Hi Mel 279, Jarance and IanDaddy,

I will try that. Thanks. Btw, I have sent my car a recommended workshop at Pandan Mewah near Ampang Hospital. I'd just called the owner and he is also perplexed with the issue. Will try to replace that DME Relay. Thanks again.


UPDATE: As at 5th November 2014.

The workshop near Ampang Hospital replaced a brand new camshaft sensor for me and the problem is still persisting.

Heeding the advice in this forum, I bought a DME relay and replaced it. Will be able to know if the car can start tomorrow morning. Otherwise, I will try to replace the fuel pump relay. Just to try my luck.
 
Another update:

almost 2 weeks ago, i replaced the fuel relay as suggested.

Result: No difference. My car is still having problem during cold start.

Further result: It somehow worsens because when the problem first detected, the gap between a difficult cold start to another is about 3-4 hours? As of now, it might even be a problem after driving it around and i leave it for 1-2 hours.
 
You are losing water after 100 to 200 Km drive. Please investigate this problem first.

Solve this problem and it may solve your present problem.
 
Hv you check you fuel pressure regulator? since you have to crank it many times. 1st time crank is the worst, no response at all but after 5 crank, the chances it is getting better & better after each crank. so i guess(maybe) after you leave your car for few hours (longer) the pressure drop significantly, and you need to crank lots of time to restore back the pressure. if you seldom drive your car, try fill up with Ron 97 instead of 95 as this will improve starting/cranking the car but if the car are driven daily, then this is non issue.
 
jarance said:
You are losing water after 100 to 200 Km drive. Please investigate this problem first.

Solve this problem and it may solve your present problem.
I have sent it for checking. They thought there was a leaking somewhere. After the pressure test, they concluded that the nut/bolt which you unscrew to let off the steam when you want to open the water tank cover, was leaking. The nut/bolt was just replaced yesterday.

The mechanic suggested me to change the 'electronic board' (not sure what it is called but i translated directly from cantonese "din pan"). Will it be a cause?

fire said:
Hv you check you fuel pressure regulator? since you have to crank it many times. 1st time crank is the worst, no response at all but after 5 crank, the chances it is getting better & better after each crank. so i guess(maybe) after you leave your car for few hours (longer) the pressure drop significantly, and you need to crank lots of time to restore back the pressure. if you seldom drive your car, try fill up with Ron 97 instead of 95 as this will improve starting/cranking the car but if the car are driven daily, then this is non issue.
Car is driven daily. I will keep that in mind, thanks.
 
badass_ck said:
I have sent it for checking. They thought there was a leaking somewhere. After the pressure test, they concluded that the nut/bolt which you unscrew to let off the steam when you want to open the water tank cover, was leaking. The nut/bolt was just replaced yesterday.

The mechanic suggested me to change the 'electronic board' (not sure what it is called but i translated directly from cantonese "din pan"). Will it be a cause?


Car is driven daily. I will keep that in mind, thanks.
What causing mech suggested to change electronic board ? Which electronic board is mentioned ?
 
tweiboon said:
What causing mech suggested to change electronic board ? Which electronic board is mentioned ?
Hi,

I am not sure but that was the suggestion given.

Just a little update:

I started using RON 97 2 weeks ago and guess what? the problem has reduced almost to none. I am rather surprised as one of the sifus commented and suggested to change to RON 97 and voila! my problem is 95% solved! haha
 
It's true. Sometimes changing to a better fuel can help solved engine problem. My old rabbit CEL problem was solved when I switched to vPower Racing.
 
It's true. Sometimes changing to a better fuel can help solved engine problem. My old rabbit CEL problem was solved when I switched to vPower Racing.
 
jarance said:
Use Ron 97 - Problem solved 95%

Use Shell V-Power - Problem solved???
hahaha the cold start problem is almost gone but i encounter a new issue.

New issue: coolant signal comes on. When car is stopped with engine running, i need to press to accelerate to reduce the temperature to normal. Or else it goes up. Done pressure test 3 times at separate times including today. No leakage is found. Boss of the workshop said i probably have leakage in the engine/gasket which will become serious and overhaul is needed.

Your opinion on this, sifu?


splee said:
It's true. Sometimes changing to a better fuel can help solved engine problem. My old rabbit CEL problem was solved when I switched to vPower Racing.
Amazingly true. I am quite astonished, really.
 
when was the last time you change the thermostat and water pump?

If water is going into the engine, then your oil will sign of water contamination. Is there any?

Think you need to change your mechanic or get second opinion.
 
Hi Sifu,

Changed on 9th Dec 2014.

Water pump could be one year ago. I did enquire if the pump was the cause, he said impossible because if it is d water pump, the temperature will shoot up immediately and not in my situation where It goes up when i drive, stop at traffic lights or when there's congestion.

I don't believe there's water in d oil. At least the boss and his workers didn't see it.

I do plan to go get a 2nd opinion on this. Thanks :)
 
badass_ck said:
Hi,

I am not sure but that was the suggestion given.

Just a little update:

I started using RON 97 2 weeks ago and guess what? the problem has reduced almost to none. I am rather surprised as one of the sifus commented and suggested to change to RON 97 and voila! my problem is 95% solved! haha
I suspect you might have issue with your spark plug? when is your last replacement of spark plug?
 
badass_ck said:
hahaha the cold start problem is almost gone but i encounter a new issue.

New issue: coolant signal comes on. When car is stopped with engine running, i need to press to accelerate to reduce the temperature to normal. Or else it goes up. Done pressure test 3 times at separate times including today. No leakage is found. Boss of the workshop said i probably have leakage in the engine/gasket which will become serious and overhaul is needed.

Your opinion on this, sifu?



Amazingly true. I am quite astonished, really.
coolant signal comes on - done pressure test 3 time-no leakage-need engine overhaul..not quite a logic.
could it just a weak water pump you have there..

nowadays a bit a bit ..already need overhaul...walau eh... :stupid:
 
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