Would appreciate advice please.I am looking into buying a late 1997 model e36 328. I have to options now. 1. 200K mileage with full service history, one owner. This guy is very passionate about his car and know everything about it. He is ugrading to e46.2. E36 2 owners, no service history mileage 93K. Apparently lady owner. Can this mileage be trusted or was it adjusted given KL registered? Is it a risk worth taking not having any history? Both selling at similar prices and equivalent physical condition. A bit concerned on the gear box condition for option 1Please help.
Low mil. no history or 200k with service histor
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Juan Powerblow
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That's a tough question! My ex-E36 318i was a 1997 car which I bought in 1999 and kept for 2 years till late 2001. It was also lady owned low mileage car. For the 2-3 years I had it, the car's maintenance was superb i.e. super reliable and no major repairs required. So, from that experience, I would go for the low mileage car. Besides, at 200K, the gearbox should've been significantly overhauled at least once?! :dunno:
The owner for the high mileage car has not overhauled the gear box. He has however changed the bushings, air cond stuffs, radiator and various other things and he has the receipts to prove his claim.
The other car is has no record at all of anything apart from the owners name. I am a bit worried that the mileage has been adjusted. 9Xk mileage for a 8 year old KL car sounds very little. The average I would have thought would be around 20k per year. There is no way checking if the car was a second or third car.
What is the rough estimation of the cost for gearbox overhauling? How long will it last after that?
I understand that the aircond and radiator are common parts to fail and is expensive to change out. This has been replaced in the first car.
First car (high miler)has original M3 body kit, Alpine CD, momo rims, original ACS spoiler very clean interior.
Second car (low miler) is stock standard, nothing special apart from new leather.
I am extremely keen to begin my first foray into the UDM. I don't want to get a lemon. Please advise guys.
The other car is has no record at all of anything apart from the owners name. I am a bit worried that the mileage has been adjusted. 9Xk mileage for a 8 year old KL car sounds very little. The average I would have thought would be around 20k per year. There is no way checking if the car was a second or third car.
What is the rough estimation of the cost for gearbox overhauling? How long will it last after that?
I understand that the aircond and radiator are common parts to fail and is expensive to change out. This has been replaced in the first car.
First car (high miler)has original M3 body kit, Alpine CD, momo rims, original ACS spoiler very clean interior.
Second car (low miler) is stock standard, nothing special apart from new leather.
I am extremely keen to begin my first foray into the UDM. I don't want to get a lemon. Please advise guys.
The Necessary
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Yeah, I agree with Mike, take your time, plenty of e36s out there.
But if I had to choose between the 2, I'd go for option 1.
Too many unknowns with option 2, and you're just kidding yourself if you believe that its condition is perfect. At least with 1, you're aware, and (hopefully) prepared.
Buying a BMW is great, but please, don't buy one if you can't afford to;
1. Get a good/decent example;
2. Afford the proper upkeep after.
Not being able to satisfy the above 2 requirements will only lead to a painful, unsatisfying and expensive relationship.
But if I had to choose between the 2, I'd go for option 1.
Too many unknowns with option 2, and you're just kidding yourself if you believe that its condition is perfect. At least with 1, you're aware, and (hopefully) prepared.
Buying a BMW is great, but please, don't buy one if you can't afford to;
1. Get a good/decent example;
2. Afford the proper upkeep after.
Not being able to satisfy the above 2 requirements will only lead to a painful, unsatisfying and expensive relationship.
Slide
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When i was looking for my 328, i came across a few with low mileages.
This turned out to be untrue. You can get it verified with Auto Bavaria.
Most cars will at some time or other been there and AB keeps very good records.
One car i looked at seemed faultless, had a service history with a local specialist. But when i checked with AB, it seems his car was caught in a flood and had been towed to AB, and although the work was not carried out there, they made a note of it on their records. Saved me a bundle.
It seems its very easy to change the mileage.
Try looking for a car with under 100k, or one from 1999. Both can be found, in fact there is one for sale on this site. Not too sure if it is still for sale.
Cheers & Good Luck.
This turned out to be untrue. You can get it verified with Auto Bavaria.
Most cars will at some time or other been there and AB keeps very good records.
One car i looked at seemed faultless, had a service history with a local specialist. But when i checked with AB, it seems his car was caught in a flood and had been towed to AB, and although the work was not carried out there, they made a note of it on their records. Saved me a bundle.
It seems its very easy to change the mileage.
Try looking for a car with under 100k, or one from 1999. Both can be found, in fact there is one for sale on this site. Not too sure if it is still for sale.
Cheers & Good Luck.
Thanks The Neccessary & Slide for the comments. Looks like I have to look further.
I have viewed quite a few 328 and find it hard to find a convincing one from a dealer.
Keep the commetns coming guys. Any other experience sharing is greatly appreciated.
I have viewed quite a few 328 and find it hard to find a convincing one from a dealer.
Keep the commetns coming guys. Any other experience sharing is greatly appreciated.
E34EuroTouring
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Go for Option 1, if the guy really cares for the car, the gearbox can last another 200K more without overhaul if you don't drive like a maniac.
One owner cars are best to get and one with a fastidious owner is definitely preferred. You can certainly get him to lower the price due to high mileage, although it is geniune mileage clocked.
Option 2 is way too risky, your first big bill will not be your last.
Also, on option 1, check how often, the owner replace the brake discs, that will give you an indication he drives it fairly gently. Look under the car with a strong flash light to see the condition of under chassis. Have car lifted. Close inspection tells a good story about where the car has been and condition of the bottom end of engine.
Good luck.
One owner cars are best to get and one with a fastidious owner is definitely preferred. You can certainly get him to lower the price due to high mileage, although it is geniune mileage clocked.
Option 2 is way too risky, your first big bill will not be your last.
Also, on option 1, check how often, the owner replace the brake discs, that will give you an indication he drives it fairly gently. Look under the car with a strong flash light to see the condition of under chassis. Have car lifted. Close inspection tells a good story about where the car has been and condition of the bottom end of engine.
Good luck.
just owned a 328 y97 last 2 months and had no problem so far. The moment i bought, the mileage was 113k with service record only up to 2003 at AB. I had looking for 3s for nearly half year with so many choices (bodykit, big rim, nice color etc.) but end up with 90% std udm......
like u, at first i was doubt with quite low mileage for 8 yrs car, but when look at std interior & test drive, started to love it...just like new.
Actually, i'm looking for ready modified car, so no need to spend more, but rethink, prefer to start all over again with upgrade project slowly.... own statisfaction.
my advise is, go for low mileage car, more reliable meanwhile modification can come later. Car engine is like human internal organ (heart, lung, kidney etc), it must be in good condition and reliable for you to be healthy externally....juz my 2 cents...
like u, at first i was doubt with quite low mileage for 8 yrs car, but when look at std interior & test drive, started to love it...just like new.
Actually, i'm looking for ready modified car, so no need to spend more, but rethink, prefer to start all over again with upgrade project slowly.... own statisfaction.
my advise is, go for low mileage car, more reliable meanwhile modification can come later. Car engine is like human internal organ (heart, lung, kidney etc), it must be in good condition and reliable for you to be healthy externally....juz my 2 cents...
Juan Powerblow
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Like you, I went for a standard stock car for my ex-E36 with low mileage. It was owned by a lady but the husband had a fleet of well-maintained cars. I guess the owner's attitude to upkeeping cars is quite important too. So, I kept the E36 for 2 years plus without the need to change much and the interior stayed as good as new. I upgraded to 17" soon after but was glad the car was never thrashed by the previous owner. Even the engine looked stonking new. I was lucky cos a car that has been thrashed can cost a bomb to maintain and if wear and tear becomes apparent once you take ownership, it can be painful. So, take your time to find the best one!Originally posted by mienoz@Sep 5 2005, 02:31 AM
just owned a 328 y97 last 2 months and had no problem so far. The moment i bought, the mileage was 113k with service record only up to 2003 at AB. I had looking for 3s for nearly half year with so many choices (bodykit, big rim, nice color etc.) but end up with 90% std udm......
like u, at first i was doubt with quite low mileage for 8 yrs car, but when look at std interior & test drive, started to love it...just like new.
Actually, i'm looking for ready modified car, so no need to spend more, but rethink, prefer to start all over again with upgrade project slowly.... own statisfaction.
my advise is, go for low mileage car, more reliable meanwhile modification can come later. Car engine is like human internal organ (heart, lung, kidney etc), it must be in good condition and reliable for you to be healthy externally....juz my 2 cents...
The Necessary
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NO!
Hahaha.
I guess it just means that he doesn't "detail" his car. Engine bays get really dirty after a while, it's normal.
Hahaha.
I guess it just means that he doesn't "detail" his car. Engine bays get really dirty after a while, it's normal.
gier
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Well, here's my story:
First time I looked for an e36 328 was in 2003. I test drove one then, and was gobsmacked, more or less. At the time I was driving a Waja (company car). Then I changed companies and got a Sonata. I still looked off and on, mainly at the MPPJ car market and used car dealers. In February this year, I started looking in earnest because I was leaving the company and starting my own. I finally got one in May.
In my experience, it's really difficult to judge whether you will get a good one or not. In the time that I was seriously looking, I've seen all sorts. Low mileage, high mileage, stock standard, heavily modified and repainted. In the end, I got one which was stock standard and had 155,000 on the clock with a full AB service history, at a used car dealer in Sunway.
Was it good? Hah, read on.
When I wanted to get it, brought a friend along who owned 2 UDMs. We test drove the thing. First impression was that the shocks were gone. The sales guy said that the grinding on the road bumps were because e36s are generally low slung and the mudflaps got in the way too. I didn't believe the guy but wasn't too bothered. This was not my first 2nd hand car. I expect to have it done up once I bought it anyway. My friend said that apart from the shocks, the mechanicals sound okay. The gearbox was good.
After paying for it and all, went with my cousin who had an e36 to pick it up. My cousin said that it felt OK (minus the shocks) and the interior was creaking in all the right places.
Sent the car to my regular (non-specialist) workshop.
This was what happened:
1. Car was knocked on the front left but fixed quite well
2. All shocks were gone
3. Sump guards were missing
4. Alternator's borked
So, got all that fixed for 6Ks, roundabouts.
Have since discovered that alternator was ok, just that the electricals were borked and grounding somewhere -- had that fixed at Bavarian Auto Works in Kayu Ara.
Everything else was just minor wear and tear.
Have also changed to Hamann replicas with Eagle-F1 17"
Almost 6 months now and have spent close to 15K.
Have enjoyed MOST of that time!
The point I'm trying to make here is that either one that you choose, you would still most probably end up with some fix-ups. As long as either "feels" ok and you've got as much expert advice as you can get your hands on to, go with your gut.
Or go find other samples ... B)
One thing I've learned is, unless what you buy is a real dog, you won't regret getting a 328 e36, petrol price and road tax be damned.
gier
First time I looked for an e36 328 was in 2003. I test drove one then, and was gobsmacked, more or less. At the time I was driving a Waja (company car). Then I changed companies and got a Sonata. I still looked off and on, mainly at the MPPJ car market and used car dealers. In February this year, I started looking in earnest because I was leaving the company and starting my own. I finally got one in May.
In my experience, it's really difficult to judge whether you will get a good one or not. In the time that I was seriously looking, I've seen all sorts. Low mileage, high mileage, stock standard, heavily modified and repainted. In the end, I got one which was stock standard and had 155,000 on the clock with a full AB service history, at a used car dealer in Sunway.
Was it good? Hah, read on.
When I wanted to get it, brought a friend along who owned 2 UDMs. We test drove the thing. First impression was that the shocks were gone. The sales guy said that the grinding on the road bumps were because e36s are generally low slung and the mudflaps got in the way too. I didn't believe the guy but wasn't too bothered. This was not my first 2nd hand car. I expect to have it done up once I bought it anyway. My friend said that apart from the shocks, the mechanicals sound okay. The gearbox was good.
After paying for it and all, went with my cousin who had an e36 to pick it up. My cousin said that it felt OK (minus the shocks) and the interior was creaking in all the right places.
Sent the car to my regular (non-specialist) workshop.
This was what happened:
1. Car was knocked on the front left but fixed quite well
2. All shocks were gone
3. Sump guards were missing
4. Alternator's borked
So, got all that fixed for 6Ks, roundabouts.
Have since discovered that alternator was ok, just that the electricals were borked and grounding somewhere -- had that fixed at Bavarian Auto Works in Kayu Ara.
Everything else was just minor wear and tear.
Have also changed to Hamann replicas with Eagle-F1 17"
Almost 6 months now and have spent close to 15K.
Have enjoyed MOST of that time!
The point I'm trying to make here is that either one that you choose, you would still most probably end up with some fix-ups. As long as either "feels" ok and you've got as much expert advice as you can get your hands on to, go with your gut.
Or go find other samples ... B)
One thing I've learned is, unless what you buy is a real dog, you won't regret getting a 328 e36, petrol price and road tax be damned.
gier
in my case, i don't use mechanic to inspect the car in the first place.... just my own detail observation and feel and big ears when test drive.... that's all
it has been 2months ++ now...i've spend so far rm 2K changing all parts recommended by mech when he diagnosed the car.... just my side of story!
anyway, good luck on ur search....
