Is this the best motor oil for UDM - Castrol SLX?

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check out for the review on Q8 F1 engine oil (BMW special oil) on today 7th May 2006 NST car section. very positive review i would say. Hope they will do the same to Royal Purple and give us the review as well.
 
I find that with the SLX, the engine warms up much faster and smoother compared to the Total I used earlier which was rated 10W-40. This is beneficial for me cos I was gotta rush out of home and hate to limit my rpm till the engine fully warms up.
 
Fully Synthetic Characteristics
0W-30
0W-40
5W-40
Fuel economy savings
Enhances engine performance and power
Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up
Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures
Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly

Semi-synthetic Characteristics
5W-30
10W-40
15W-40
Better protection
Good protection within the first 10 minutes after starting out
Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear
Increased oil change intervals - don't need to change it quite so often

Mineral Characteristics
10W-40
15W-40
Basic protection for a variety of engines
Oil needs to be changed more often
 
This turned out to be an informative discussion on oil viscosity, so I am editing the title slightly to better reflect the nature of the discussion, for the benefit of other forummers who may find this useful as well.

Thanks to the contributors.
 
I found some additional info.

In the API Motor oil Guide, it is stated as follows:-

If lowest expected outdoor temperature is 0 °C (32 °F): typical SAE Viscosity Grades for Passenger Cars 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50

If lowest expected outdoor temperature is –18 °C (0 °F): typical SAE Viscosity Grades for Passenger Cars 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40

If lowest expected outdoor temperature is Below –18 °C (0 °F): typical SAE Viscosity Grades for Passenger Cars 5W-20 and 5W-30

Reference:
URL: http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_MotorOilGuide_2004.pdf
 
perhaps understanding the connection between the four main factors that makes one engine oil more superior than the other is relevant:
1) base oil used (Group I, II, III, IV, V)
2) SAE grade
3) API rating
4) ability to clean and suspend soot and carbon (detergency level)

it has been an issue of which engine oil is better mainly basing on recommendations, advertisements and testimonials...

however other factors like driving habits, fuel economy, condition of engine, willingness to pay, brand name, performance, and lots more are also to be considered when choosing a suitable engine oil...

1) the base oil used determines the engine oil to be mineral or synthetic, and in synthetic there are PAOs, ester and other base....

2) the SAE ratings determines the viscosity of the oil, and perhaps there's a myth about a 10W/30 weighted oil not suitable for our malaysian weather... the thinner the oil will improve fuel economy, lower oil pressure, and better responsiveness for the engine, however as one of you mentioned, if the engine condition is bad, then the need for higher viscosity is advisable to prevent loss of oil due to worn off piston rings, valve seals and seats, oil seals and etc... perhaps one wud need to consider to repair the mentioned parts.... but with a precise and high technology engine designer and manufacturer like BMW, the SAE weight of the oil is "the thinner the better", narrower SAE weighted oils such as 10W/30, 5W/20 are more resistant to oil shearing and the film strength is superior as it requires lesser VII to be blended....

3) API ratings are internationally acknowledged to be one of the best and accurate guide when choosing the oil.... later engine models require higher graded API ratings due to the performance level and the environmental issues.... the API ratings are backward compatible, hence, if it is recommended to use SL, you are advised not to use lower than SL, but if it is recommended to use SG, then one can opt to go up to SJ, SL or SM....

4) another important feature of an engine oil is its ability to clean and suspend soot, carbon and by-products created in the process of internal combustion until the next OCI...

an important factor is the TBN (Total Base Number) level... the ability for the oil to neutralise acid (by-product) created from the internal combustion process.... the higher the TBN level (eq: 10) the better and longer lasting the oil is to withstand the acid attack..... however, the TBN will deplete over time, and once fully depleted, the oil will not be able to neutralise, hence the oil will turn acidic, perhaps sludge and thicken.... affecting the health of the engine....

cheers
 
1) the base oil used determines the engine oil to be mineral or synthetic, and in synthetic there are PAOs, ester and other base

The first question demanding an answer is: *Just what is synthetic oil*?
Technically speaking, synthetic lubricants are made by chemically
combining, in a laboratory, lower-molecular-weight materials to produce
a finished product with planned and predictable properties
.  Don't be
confused by this technical double-talk.  What this means is that
synthetics are custom-designed products in which each phase of their
molecular construction is programmed to produce what may be called "the
ideal lubricant."  This process departs significantly from that of
petroleum lubricants
, whose physical components, both desirable and
undesirable, are inherited from the crude oil from which they are
refined.  Crude oil possesses thousands of varieties of contaminants,
depending upon the oil's geographical and geological origins, which no
amount of refining can entirely remove.  Corrosive acids, paraffins and
other waxes, heavy metals, asphalt, naphthenes and benzenes, as well as
countless compounds of sulfur, chlorine, and nitrogen, remain in the
finished product.  Equally as important, petroleum oil molecules, as
contrasted to uniform-sized synthetic oil molecules, vary significantly
in size, shape, and length.  When your engine heats up, the smaller
molecules evaporate, while the larger ones tend to oxidize and become
engine deposits.  As a result, refined petroleum lubricating products
differ widely in their overall quality and performance.  The presence of
and the resulting drawbacks of the undesirable constituent elements lie
at the very root of the considerable performance differences between
synthetic and petroleum-based motor oils.


4) another important feature of an engine oil is its ability to clean and suspend soot, carbon and by-products created in the process of internal combustion until the next OCI...

an important factor is the TBN (Total Base Number) level... the ability for the oil to neutralise acid (by-product) created from the internal combustion process.... the higher the TBN level (eq: 10) the better and longer lasting the oil is to withstand the acid attack..... however, the TBN will deplete over time, and once fully depleted, the oil will not be able to neutralise, hence the oil will turn acidic, perhaps sludge and thicken.... affecting the health of the engine


TBN Testing is particularly important for engine oil, as it is continuously exposed to acidic combustion products and these must be neutralised before they can corrode engine parts.

The TBN of oil is the measure of the alkaline reserve, or the ability of the oil to neutralise acids from combustion. Severe depletion of the TBN results in acid corrosion and fouling within the engine.

Maintaining a correct alkaline reserve is critical in preventing unnecessary corrosion of the upper piston, piston rings and top end bearing. Additionally, low TBN is indicative of reduced oil detergency.

Low TBN will cause:


Corrosion of combustion space and bearings


Fouling within the engine
 
It's been 1,000 kms since I changed to Castrol SLX and my car's performance has been consistently fantastic. The instantaneous throttle response no matter what fuel I use, the quieter engine, the quicker start-up. I can't imagine myself changing to anything else after this! I'm also getting a lot of conflicting opinions about whether this is the right grade of oil to use. Some fellas say 0-30W is OK for M54 engines but not so good for M52s or M40s.
 
Originally posted by Juan Powerblow@May 24 2006, 10:49 PM
It's been 1,000 kms since I changed to Castrol SLX and my car's performance has been consistently fantastic. The instantaneous throttle response no matter what fuel I use, the quieter engine, the quicker start-up. I can't imagine myself changing to anything else after this! I'm also getting a lot of conflicting opinions about whether this is the right grade of oil to use. Some fellas say 0-30W is OK for M54 engines but not so good for M52s or M40s.
if it's ok for your engine, good loh. however, as a precautionary measure, do check the engine oil dipstick just to be sure that the oil level don't drop unexpectedly.
 
Based on AJ's attachment, I was a bit concerned on today's heat. Driving back from a meeting at Summit USJ, I saw the in-car temperature gauge hit a high of 39.5 degrees celcius which is way past the acceptable parameters of 0-30W oil. Then, in the evening when it rained like cats and donkeys, the temperature dropped to 25.5 degrees celcius. I think to play safe, I'll go for Mobil 1 5-40W at my next oil change
 
JP

I would recommend the 10w60 which is what the recommended specs for the E46M3 & E60M5. Try the castrol RS.
 
Juan,

Interesting development. Thanks for keeping us posted.

Am also researching the best engine oil for my car.

Am on Shell Helix Ultra 15W-50 at the moment. Feels a bit heavy, but recommended by my mechanic owing to engine age.
 
Originally posted by Juan Powerblow@May 25 2006, 07:53 PM
Based on AJ's attachment, I was a bit concerned on today's heat. Driving back from a meeting at Summit USJ, I saw the in-car temperature gauge hit a high of 39.5 degrees celcius which is way past the acceptable parameters of 0-30W oil. Then, in the evening when it rained like cats and donkeys, the temperature dropped to 25.5 degrees celcius. I think to play safe, I'll go for Mobil 1 5-40W at my next oil change
Is the engine oil temperature that low?? Or are u referring to the ambient temperature of the air inside the cabin? :blink: :unsure:

I read somewhere that engine oil temperatures at about 60-70 degrees celcius, if the cooling system is doing its work.
 
Originally posted by Lee36328@May 28 2006, 09:01 AM
Juan,

Interesting development. Thanks for keeping us posted.

Am also researching the best engine oil for my car.

Am on Shell Helix Ultra 15W-50 at the moment. Feels a bit heavy, but recommended by my mechanic owing to engine age.
Agree with your comments on Shell Helix.

Thot you recently overhauled ur car. If yes, ur engine should be tight enough to take lighter oils.

Have u tried Q8 yet? Am using the semi-synth, power is fine and seems to run quieter too.
 
well guys,i have been using number of bimmers n still keeping them wit..from my opinion the best oil to maintain the parts for longer period of course the bmw oil original..but it is a bit expensimve n hard to get..

the best oil to subsitude this oil is a medium thickness oil,must be fully syn n if it has this on the back label then this will be the best,'BMW LONG LIFE APPROVE'

i have tried number of oil which has this requirement of mine..the best is esso ultro..which is much more better than mobil 1.mobil 1 its to thick.the it slow down the performance of the engine.

among all the engine oil.esso the only lube that i have used that doenst have burning smell after from a hard driving.u can try this.others local brands will have the smell.

but redline oil r much better than the esso.but its more far expensive.for track use u got to go wit redline.but for n/a bmw street use,esso ultron.

for those using valvetronic engine.go wit the esso ultron.it will reduce the sludge in ur engine very much compare than the rest of engine oil
 
well guys,i have been using number of bimmers n still keeping them wit..from my opinion the best oil to maintain the parts for longer period of course the bmw oil original..but it is a bit expensimve n hard to get..

the best oil to subsitude this oil is a medium thickness oil,must be fully syn n if it has this on the back label then this will be the best,'BMW LONG LIFE APPROVE'

i have tried number of oil which has this requirement of mine..the best is esso ultro..which is much more better than mobil 1.mobil 1 its to thick.the it slow down the performance of the engine.

among all the engine oil.esso the only lube that i have used that doenst have burning smell after from a hard driving.u can try this.others local brands will have the smell.

but redline oil r much better than the esso.but its more far expensive.for track use u got to go wit redline.but for n/a bmw street use,esso ultron.

for those using valvetronic engine.go wit the esso ultron.it will reduce the sludge in ur engine very much compare than the rest of engine oil
 
guys just because the 10-w60 is recommended on the m3 it doesn't mean its best on every other engine. realise that on a high revving engine main and big end clearances will tend to be on the looser side due to likelihod of crankshaft flexing.

with that in mind the s54's main bearing clearance is 20-50microns which is huge considering some japanese engines have this clearance down to 4-22microns! 4 microns is 0.004mm as the space in which oil flows between the block and crank!! big clearances will require heavier oil thus w60. if the oil is too light the oil pump will have a tough time maintaining pressure with this large clearance.

on the other hand normal engines with smoothness and silence and fuel economy in mind will tend to run with tighter clearances. such tight clearances will favour a lighter oil. i see no advantage going heavier than is really necessary. for sure its safer but your engine will be more sluggish and fuel economy will be down.

if you notice all M engines prefer heavier oils (w60 or so) including the m5 (e39 and e90). whereas the more normal engines are recommended with lighter oils. i can almost guarantee you that the clearances on the sportier engines are on the looser side compared to your normal engines, thus dictating the use of respective oil weights.
 
i have been searching around online for the best engine oil, AMSOIL seems to yield the best result according to many independant testing. unfortunately been searching around but its totally not available here, even online order and delivery is availble in US and canada only.
 
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