e36 several problem

  • Click here to become an Official Member of BMW Club Malaysia Download Form
jarance;766276 said:
M50 engine with Mpower cover.. vely the powderful.
M50B25

The 2,494 cc (152 cu in) M50B25 was introduced with the 1990 525i/525ix . It has an 84 mm bore and 75 mm stroke and produces 141 kW (189 hp) at 5900 rpm and 245 N·m (181 lb·ft) at 4700 rpm.[2]

Applications:

1990-1992 E34 525i/525ix
1991-1992 E36 325i/325is

M50TUB25

The M50B25 was updated with variable valve timing (called VANOS by BMW) on the intake camshaft in 1992. Peak torque became available 500 rpm lower, at 4200 rpm.[2]

Applications:

1992-1995 E36 325i/325is
1992-1996 E34 525i/525ix

which one you refer bro jarance?
 
l8nite;766373 said:
is that means the engine like baby to treat?

Dont get me wrong, was just joking. It means u never know what is inside the engine until he smokes u..i have heard its amazing story..
 
JFT63;766375 said:
Dont get me wrong, was just joking. It means u never know what is inside the engine until he smokes u..i have heard its amazing story..
hahaha. is that means the engine powerfull? never tried top speed but already reach 170km/h. dont have chance to get speed above that.
 
l8nite;766381 said:
hahaha. is that means the engine powerfull? never tried top speed but already reach 170km/h. dont have chance to get speed above that.

Have no worries, do join us for some drives to learn to floor the accelerator...hehe...
 
JFT63;766383 said:
Have no worries, do join us for some drives to learn to floor the accelerator...hehe...
yeah, sure! but got to fix radiator first. and check the engine perfectly before floor the accelerator.

this 8 and 9 september i will sent the car to bmw workshop at sunway for minor check. curios about the fc. and try to find new radiator if i cannot fix the hole.
 
l8nite;766369 said:
i think like that. its from 1.8 to 2.5 but how come that happen? jpj not approve engine conversion more than 30% right.
but the owner claim from 2.0 to 2.5.
manual aircond, only driver and co pilot power windows.

i think you need to get back to basic and check the grant 1st...see what's written there ..and as for JPJ thinggy that's subjective ... now the car is yours and all the JPJ inspection has been carried out ...from the car grant it will show you the total story ...engine number changed etc etc ...when changed too can be checked

usually the rear too must have the auto button to bring down the window ...could be a South African spec 320i or a 316i ...

so before we go any further you better check the grant first ...
 
l8nite;766387 said:
yeah, sure! but got to fix radiator first. and check the engine perfectly before floor the accelerator.

this 8 and 9 september i will sent the car to bmw workshop at sunway for minor check. curios about the fc. and try to find new radiator if i cannot fix the hole.

if you read carefully i've already given you some highlight about ya FC thinggy ...so rest is up to you to ponder upon ...

not to scare you any further pls also check the wiring looms ...if cut and paste then you're into the future waiting for problems to occur ..
 
ICEMAN 13;766364 said:
DR jarance ..he needs you to answer that ? yuhooo where are you

need to dial 1-900-99-JARANCE ka ?

From the picture it is a M50 B25 TU engine single vanos. The telltale signs are the Oil cap at the rear of engine and the AMF
 
This is a M50B25 engine non vanos.
844308_28_full.jpg


This is a M50TUB25 engine single vanos
M50tuB25-01_2.jpg


The is M54B25 Double vanos.
BMW_M54B25_002.jpg


See any difference between the 3 engines.. (hints: oil cap and the front of the engine cover where is vanos is located)
 
can i remove thermostat because my temp level always at half or meter. just start the car for 5 minutes then the temp already half meter. can i remove or not to do it?
 
l8nite;766668 said:
can i remove thermostat because my temp level always at half or meter. just start the car for 5 minutes then the temp already half meter. can i remove or not to do it?

That's normal I think.

It should be in the middle within 5mins of starting the engine. It will take perhaps more than 5 mins if the engine has not been started e.g. overnight or longer then it will take longer for the temp needle to reach the middle mark.
 
zib;766705 said:
That's normal I think.

It should be in the middle within 5mins of starting the engine. It will take perhaps more than 5 mins if the engine has not been started e.g. overnight or longer then it will take longer for the temp needle to reach the middle mark.
oh ok. so i dont need to remove la? because i scared me to looking the temp like that. even my old mercedes not quarters meter. can europe car remove thermostat like japan car?
because i already ask the workshop, he said not good remove thermostat for bmw because can cause overheat.
 
l8nite;766728 said:
oh ok. so i dont need to remove la? because i scared me to looking the temp like that. even my old mercedes not quarters meter. can europe car remove thermostat like japan car?
because i already ask the workshop, he said not good remove thermostat for bmw because can cause overheat.

The thermostat's main aim is to bring the engine temperature to its optimum level. I did think occasionally to remove the thermostats on my car as well (Japs and Contis) in the past.

In fact I did once years ago when I was a lot younger on my mom's KE30 (that's a 1977 Toyota corolla for the benefit of our younger forummer here) and it took the engine temperature forever to climb up to even past the C mark (not even the quarter mark yet).
Plus it came with a belt driven fan as well not a viscous-coupling fan in the E36/E39 or electric. So u can imagine how cold the engine was running even during midday. On hiway runs, it even ran cooler i.e. the needle dropped back to almost C.

And boy the car was sluggish and consumed fuel and oil as well as the engine was running cold and it wore the engine faster than it should had it reached it optimal temperature sooner.
The parts movements and frictions were far greater when it was cold hence led to the premature wear and tear. At the end the car needed a full overhaul and was sold off not long after that.

So there you go from my experience.

Cheers
 
zib;766731 said:
The thermostat's main aim is to bring the engine temperature to its optimum level. I did think occasionally to remove the thermostats on my car as well (Japs and Contis) in the past.

In fact I did once years ago when I was a lot younger on my mom's KE30 (that's a 1977 Toyota corolla for the benefit of our younger forummer here) and it took the engine temperature forever to climb up to even past the C mark (not even the quarter mark yet).
Plus it came with a belt driven fan as well not a viscous-coupling fan in the E36/E39 or electric. So u can imagine how cold the engine was running even during midday. On hiway runs, it even ran cooler i.e. the needle dropped back to almost C.

And boy the car was sluggish and consumed fuel and oil as well as the engine was running cold and it wore the engine faster than it should had it reached it optimal temperature sooner.
The parts movements and frictions were far greater when it was cold hence led to the premature wear and tear. At the end the car needed a full overhaul and was sold off not long after that.

So there you go from my experience.

Cheers
ok. i also heard about that. the car need the optimum temp for best performance. here my situation;
my father got mercedes w124. with thermostat, water temp not exceed 40'C unless stuck in jem. the temp will increase till 80'C. this situation without switch on aircond. if turn on, temp remain at 40'c.
i got old mercedes w123. the temp remain 60'c with or with thermostat.
so i think i could do the same to my e36.
 
BMW engine is designed to work at the 50% mark temperature (half way).

You start to get worry when it goes to 75% or 3/4 mark.

When the overheat light come on, you start to pray that you did not blow your engine.

pss..sst. Do not add COLD water to an overheated engine. Let it cool down for at least an hour before adding water.
if all failed, get a tow truck to send the car to a workshop to prevent further damage to your engine.
 
jarance;766740 said:
BMW engine is designed to work at the 50% mark temperature (half way).

You start to get worry when it goes to 75% or 3/4 mark.

When the overheat light come on, you start to pray that you did not blow your engine.

pss..sst. Do not add COLD water to an overheated engine. Let it cool down for at least an hour before adding water.
if all failed, get a tow truck to send the car to a workshop to prevent further damage to your engine.
it happen to me after i bought this car. thanks god i notice it near to my house so i return back, call the previous owner about that. then i notice radiator got problem. let the engine cold for a hour then topup water in radiator. very lucky that not my girl drive that car. the meter bulb also not good for me to look at the temp during night drive. so for safety, just let the car undrive until i get it at penang and change the new radiator.

need to find workshop to change the radiator on this 8 and 9 september near sunway or kl area.
 
Get the radiator changed lah. It's minor price to pay compared to blowing the engine. PM me if you wanna workshop recommendation. I normally send my car to my mechanic at USJ.
 
John_Smith;766991 said:
Get the radiator changed lah. It's minor price to pay compared to blowing the engine. PM me if you wanna workshop recommendation. I normally send my car to my mechanic at USJ.
UGPM bro John_Smith
 
Top Bottom