E30 tyre size

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just use 16". as fabian mentioned, 205/50 tyres. then your steering won't be heavy as well as not compromise entirely on comfort.
 
mizhan;498930 said:
just use 16". as fabian mentioned, 205/50 tyres. then your steering won't be heavy as well as not compromise entirely on comfort.

thanks mizhan, I'll take note of that.
 
update: this morning inflate tires 32 psi allround and take a quick dash to Nilai , tru h/way and back by old trunk road. result - h/way ride is acceptable ; other roads still harsh and bouncy . decision: to revert back to stock std rims/tires, 195/65-14 - because most of my travels are on bandaran and housing roads, and can accomodate certain amount of bodyroll when corners.


p/s mine on koni & lowered.
 
you may go as low as 28 for the front, 30 rear. no harm trying, but avoid potholes :)
 
EEEE30;498584 said:
Funny things like what exactly?
The maximum rim size you can have for an e30 is 17" in my openion and 18" is pushing too far already, but 19" is just over the top and it is just plain crazy. :stupid:
With that being said, there are lot of things that goes into e30's, which are never designed and never meant to be in an e30, for example LS1 or LS2 motors (motors from Chevy Corvettes) not to mention bucket load of newer BMW motors that now being swap into e30's. The main thing is that you have to know how to compensate to what you've lost / gain by changing the original specs.



If I'm not mistaken rear 235/45 don't remeber front since I sold this car long time back, but I do remember that it was smaller than the rear and hated that undersize front tires.

There is a well documented on oing thread in r3v about wheel/tire fitment on e30's and forum is purely e30's. Visit the thread and go through the postings and your'll find answers to all your questions about wheel fitments and you'll be amased how many of them are running 16" and 17"
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=83125

And this thread is all about ride height and suspension setup
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=52154


After a 25 year love affair, track time and tinkering with E30s, believe me, not everything is as it seems.

Wheels exceeding 16" require a lot of recalibration of the suspension. To put it very simply, weigh the difference between the wheel and tyre between 16" and 17". How does that difference impact upon your bushings, balljoints, spring and damping rates?

Most of the E30s that have been successfully running on 17s behave very unpredictable in the bends. It is almost like 'torque steer' in a FWD, as the specified footprint and contact patch has been adversely altered beyond it's original intended geometry by the engineers. Through the years I have known of at least 5 individuals who have lost their rides after going to 17s. Yes, total loss as in 'tree huggers' and 'ravine jumping'. Not to mention that the car will start surfing anything beyond 80kph in the rain.

On the topic of LS1 and LS2s, its pure ego and blatant flushing of money unless you are a chassis engineer who understands the stress dynamics of metal and the physics behind torsional rigidity.
I have personally seen one of our member's ride with a M50B32 in it. No doubt the power is there, but after a year, there is very clear evidence of stress cracks and chassis fatique at various crtical areas of the car. And this in a M40 body that has been foamed, reinforced, running strut bars at both ends.

Don't believe everything you read on the WWW. Much of it is just not very practical in application. When citing an American site like R3vs, just remember this: Harleys, Mustangs and Corvettes are beautiful loud machines that go very fast, but cannot corner or brake very well.

I believe the best template to fall upon would be the E30 M3. What was the biggest wheel size offered on the last model that rolled out of Munich? (Google and have fun :))

In our quest to customize and be different, we must always keep safety as the paramount importance. I leave you with this concept to think about: engineering integrity.:top:
 
kevster30;499572 said:
After a 25 year love affair, track time and tinkering with E30s, believe me, not everything is as it seems.

Wheels exceeding 16" require a lot of recalibration of the suspension. To put it very simply, weigh the difference between the wheel and tyre between 16" and 17". How does that difference impact upon your bushings, balljoints, spring and damping rates?

Most of the E30s that have been successfully running on 17s behave very unpredictable in the bends. It is almost like 'torque steer' in a FWD, as the specified footprint and contact patch has been adversely altered beyond it's original intended geometry by the engineers. Through the years I have known of at least 5 individuals who have lost their rides after going to 17s. Yes, total loss as in 'tree huggers' and 'ravine jumping'. Not to mention that the car will start surfing anything beyond 80kph in the rain.

On the topic of LS1 and LS2s, its pure ego and blatant flushing of money unless you are a chassis engineer who understands the stress dynamics of metal and the physics behind torsional rigidity.
I have personally seen one of our member's ride with a M50B32 in it. No doubt the power is there, but after a year, there is very clear evidence of stress cracks and chassis fatique at various crtical areas of the car. And this in a M40 body that has been foamed, reinforced, running strut bars at both ends.

Don't believe everything you read on the WWW. Much of it is just not very practical in application. When citing an American site like R3vs, just remember this: Harleys, Mustangs and Corvettes are beautiful loud machines that go very fast, but cannot corner or brake very well.

I believe the best template to fall upon would be the E30 M3. What was the biggest wheel size offered on the last model that rolled out of Munich? (Google and have fun :))

In our quest to customize and be different, we must always keep safety as the paramount importance. I leave you with this concept to think about: engineering integrity.:top:

Okkk I understand where you come from and your history with e30's. That's all good.
What I said was it is ok to change original specs if you know how to compensate for what you've lost /gain while you changing original specs.
As for the motor swaps, LS1 are dime a dozen in US and same thing goes for BMW m5x, s5x (believe me I know, i've been there, done that and doing it all over again here in KL). I wouldn't talk about online forums here, but I can personally vouch for r3v which is purely an e30 forum with true e30 enthusiats/ technical experts and it is not about Harleys, Gaystangs, or Corvetts.
That is why I posted two threads from there so then OP (or whoever has questions) can refer to them. After all, this is all about learning right
I'm not a metal expert nor BMW guru but all my arguments are purely based on personal experiences. :top:


And Mizhan,
Alpina 16" staggered for the WIN :top:
 
EEEE30;499627 said:
Okkk I understand where you come from and your history with e30's. That's all good.
What I said was it is ok to change original specs if you know how to compensate for what you've lost /gain while you changing original specs.
As for the motor swaps, LS1 are dime a dozen in US and same thing goes for BMW m5x, s5x (believe me I know, i've been there, done that and doing it all over again here in KL). I wouldn't talk about online forums here, but I can personally vouch for r3v which is purely an e30 forum with true e30 enthusiats/ technical experts and it is not about Harleys, Gaystangs, or Corvetts.
That is why I posted two threads from there so then OP (or whoever has questions) can refer to them. After all, this is all about learning right
I'm not a metal expert nor BMW guru but all my arguments are purely based on personal experiences. :top:


And Mizhan,
Alpina 16" staggered for the WIN :top:

Bro,

Good to know we're on the same page. Hope to meet you at TT one of these days. Have fun with your ride.

Come to think of it it's been some time since the e30 fraternity went for a drive...show of hands?

Cheers!:top:
 
kevster30;499640 said:
Bro,

Good to know we're on the same page. Hope to meet you at TT one of these days. Have fun with your ride.

Come to think of it it's been some time since the e30 fraternity went for a drive...show of hands?

Cheers!:top:

I hope that too my friend. Love to share knowledge and learn :tee:

mizhan;499642 said:
both you guys live in ttdi.. go punch up each other at jasimaa la.

hahahahah
 
mizhan;499283 said:
30 front, 32 rear ought to be better..

update: finally my 17" rims shod with 215/45-17 tires front & rear, were put on 31 psi allround.result - acceptable..........cant enjoy both world! - gain on the look but got to compromise on the comfort......


now slowly on the look out for cheap cheap 16" rims........:listen:
 
glad to hear you're happier now. somebody is selling AC 16" in this forum.. check it out la.
 
AAM;500432 said:
update: finally my 17" rims shod with 215/45-17 tires front & rear, were put on 31 psi allround.result - acceptable..........cant enjoy both world! - gain on the look but got to compromise on the comfort......


now slowly on the look out for cheap cheap 16" rims........:listen:



update 4 info: front LHS fender still scrapping the front tyre when hitting speedhumps or potholes .....only when the tyres are at an angle to the fenders. :eek: :eek:
 
Using 17" wheel n dough? I burn them for fun.

On AC Type II replicas,correct offset should be not more then 25. Hub centric cones is a must. If girling brakes calipers then you need to shave a bit for the spokes to clear,fine if you are having ATE Brakes calipers.

Have to use staggered tyres, 204/45/17 front, 215/45/17 rear. All new CSC new tyres,not pun intended,I never run on used tyres. Took it off after while. Uncompromise handling,tyres maintenance also heavy I can't cross the tyres every 5K mileage.
Best is stick to 16" niceeee!!!
 
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