Time for engine oil change

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better go for an established branded oil like Motul, Mobil 1, etc.......no headaches, why go for something that u've never even heard before? Just spend RM300 for an oil change for your car.......
 
Does Auto Bavaria recommends:
1) an engine flush at every oil change?
2) is it good for the engine?

I've been sending my cars to AB for 11 years already and they never flush my engine at every oil change. Anyway, I still believe that AB is the best SC for BMW.
 
My mech engine flush my Bimmer a couple of times a year.Doing about 25k km a year so I guess thats pretty reasonable.

AB is good lar just that I dont like the pricing,the long wait and some of the attitudes of the staff there. If my car still under warranty,I sure go AB one. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 
i know that autochild (oil specialist) in glenmarie shah alam used Q8 & royal purple, they say its a top range and good quality oil. check out some review on the latest motortrader coz if i am not mistaken they have an article on autochild.
 
I tried 3 types of engine oils so far and these are my experiences :

Mobil 1 (5W50) - engine noise level highiest
- engine response similar to Shell

Shell Helix Ultra (15W50) - engine noise in between

Q8 (10W50) - engine noise is the lowest
- engine response slower than Mobil and Shell


I am wondering what oil should I use to have engine noise as low as Q8 and engine response similar to Shell/Mobil ??

Any recommendation from the Sifus out there ??
 
hmm, i dont notice any noise difference nor fuel consumption diff with

castrol rs

shell helix ultra

mobil1

bp visco 7000

all look and work the same for me. anyone try out the BMW packed oil? is fairly cheap i last check.
 
Castrol, mobil1, shell all come with the same spec 5w50 or 10w50, this is why there is not much different, why dont try others spec 5w40, 10w40 or even 0w30. u wil sure feel the different. ? after u feel the diff then u choose the brand for comparison.
 
Originally posted by Crymson@Jan 23 2006, 02:04 PM
Adnoc
I'm planning to try ADNOC pearl (i think it's the semi sync) at my next oil change mid Feb. Do u know how much is for a 4 litre? Know where can I source from trustworthy supplier?


Currently I'm using Castrol Magnatec (ori) for RM63 per 4 litres. So for using for 2 oil change .... gooooooooooood
Click to expand...
Crymson,

The company i'm working for is the sole importer and exclusive distributor for Adnoc lubricants in Malaysia, so we are trustworthy...

Resellers are only a handful due to the fact like wat Green Killer quoted, " better go for an established branded oil like Motul, Mobil 1, etc.......no headaches, why go for something that u've never even heard before? Just spend RM300 for an oil change for your car......."

so most of our dealers or workshops that hold Adnoc lubricants are aware of the quality, affordability and most of all, the risk of purchasing a recycled or imitation Adnoc lubes is practically nil (for the time being)...

So for the consumers who are made aware of this, the price $$$ they pay for Adnoc lubes which is 100% fully imported (NOT blended or packed in Malaysia) from Abu Dhabi, UAE (one of the world's crude oil exporters), is surprisingly more affordable as compared to bigger and established brand lubes which are locally blended and packed....

Furthermore, it has been emphasized over many times, that the following website: www.eolcs.api.org is to check the authenticity and approval of all API grades claimed by the oil companies... (which some consumers are pretty particular about)

For those who might be interested to know more about the Adnoc Pearl 10W/40 Semi Synthetic API SL/CF, the typical inspection is as follow:

Typical Inpection Adnoc Pearl 10W/40

Specific Gravity @ 15 degrees C : 0.8765
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 degrees C, cSt : 97, @100 degrees C, cSt : 14.0
Viscosity Index : 150
Flash point COC degrees C : 224
Pour point degrees C : -27
TBN, mg KOH/g : 8
Sulphated Ash, %Wt: 1.0

Approved against:

API SL/CF (LICENSE NO: 1162)
ACEA A3/B4/02
MB 229.1
VW 505 00

cheers
 
more spice to the listeners.........

Most of the major brands in petroleum oil perform adequately provided your driving condition are normal and you change your oil regularly.

At present 2 major classification for oil have been pro-founded. The SAE viscosity grade and API classification that designates the type of engine the oil was designed. W numbers are often used to classify SAE viscosity grade. Most oil today carry the multi viscosity such as 10W30 or 20W50. In general the lower the first number the better the oil perform in cold condition; conversely the higher the number second number the better the oil perform in hot condition.The API serve the classification for gasoline and diesel engine with S and C designation(not related much in malaysia, except for heavy engines).

Synthetic oil for instance was developed for jet engines. Less than -30 deg C ambient temp, 60000 shaft rpm, and 260 deg C was too much for conventional oil(which were the base oils). Synthetics were created to withstand these harsh conditions. AMSOIL produced the 1st synthetic oil for automotive engines in 1972. Mobil 1(ehemm, ehemmm) undoubtedly the most recognized name in synthetics oil was introduced in 1976.

Wat is synthetic and conventional oil

Conventional Oil
Also known as "dino-juice", this is the stuff that is in the majority of engines today. There are many brands out there and they tend to vary quite a bit in terms of what is in them, but don't vary much in terms of performance. Like most things, there are many fewer engine oil manufacturers than there are engine oil brands. Many brands, especially generics, buy their oil from common manufacturers. Differences between conventional oils usually lies within the purification process of the base oil and the additives that are included to control it. While some manufacturers process their own base oil (Mobil, Shell, etc), others buy base oil from these companies and add their own additives. Who buys what from whom appears to be a well-kept secret.

Some tests have been done using several different brands and types of oils in vehicles. Measurements were made of engine parts to begin with, then the vehicles were used in a similar way for several months, then taken apart and measured again. These results are inconclusive because the length of time was too short. The amount of wear was found to be the same, but since the tests were only conducted for a few months, the wear found was primarily break-in wear. A similar test lasting several years and tens of thousands of miles is needed to make any real conclusions.

So basically, the only advice about conventional oil is to buy a well-known name brand oil. Whatever brand you choose do not mix brands of engine oil. Chances are that nothing will happen, but there is the possibility that the additives of one brand can react with the additives of another. Changing brands between oil changes is probably fine, but don't use a different brand if you have to add oil later.

Synthetic Oil
Synthetic oil is also put together the same way as conventional oil. It has a base and additives. The difference is that the base oil is synthesized so that the size of the molecules are ideal for a particular weight and are of consistent size. Conventional oil has many molecule sizes all mixed together with many impurities, but there is an ideal size for the best lubricative properties and viscosity. With a pure base, there are no waxes or impurities that contribute to buildup of "varnish" and "coke" in your engine. A more sophisticated set of additives is added to this ideal base oil. These additives make for an extremely stable engine oil which can maintain its viscosity over a larger temperature range and keeps the base oil molecules from breaking down. The result is an oil that can flow at much lower temperatures, maintain proper viscosity at higher temperatures (thermal breakdown), and remain stable for a much longer period. It will also protect your engine longer at and right after startup because the friction inhibitor additives are activated a lower temperatures than that of conventional oils. Probably the two most popular brands for synthetic engine oil are Mobil 1 and Castrol Formula SLX (formerly "Syntech"), though other brands are available. .

The only real downside to synthetic oils is the cost. It is typically two or three times the cost of conventional oil for a good synthetic. Another little-known downside is that switching to a synthetic oil on an old engine can result in oil leaks. Why? Because the detergents in the synthetic oils will "clean-up" the varnish and sludge left by conventional oils. If your engine seals are worn, the synthetic will break down the oil varnish that may be maintaining the seal. So it's not that the synthetic oil caused a leak, it just that it revealed worn seals by cleaning the varnish off of them. Many people have switched to synthetic on 100,000+ mile engines with no leaks, so it just depends on how often you changed your oil and the overall condition of your engine.
 
where can i get royal purple in subang area? how much to fill up my 2.0 e46?
 
Originally posted by guru@Feb 26 2006, 08:12 PM
where can i get royal purple in subang area? how much to fill up my 2.0 e46?
Click to expand...
dude, try autochild., they are sellin royal purple.. i got it in my car today.. result is fantastic..!
 

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