Strut Bar! Why it helps!

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Alvin

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This is an article from someone in a forum in US. It is my belief that a strut bar definitely does help. And during the explanation that follows I will try to provide a convincing argument for this. Figure 1 shows the forces of interest in a strut bar analysis. For this calculation only horizontal forces need be considered. There are of course vertical forces, but since the sum of forces must independently equal zero in both the horizontal and vertical directions, we can concentrate on just the horizontal forces in this analysis. We must begin by making some assumptions. First, consider an M3 cornering such that it experiences 100% weight transfer at the front wheels. This is not at all unusual on a modified M3. We have probably all seen pictures of an M3 in a turn with its inside front wheel in the air. That is a sure sign of 100% weight transfer. Second, let us assume that our M3 is cornering at 1G. Again, on a modified M3 with R-series tires, this is very plausible. If an M3 weighs 2700 lbs and has close to a 50/50 weight distribution, then the outside front tire must generate a lateral force of 1350 lbs under the circumstances just outlined. Thus F1 = 1350 lbs as depicted in the figure above. The figure is really a "free body diagram" which considers the forces that act ON the strut/wheel assembly (the blue link in Figure 1). These forces must sum to zero in the horizontal direction. Also, the sum of the torque's acting on the strut/wheel assembly must cancel out. Our goal is to determine the force F3 which is the force that the strut tower exerts on the strut assembly. There is an equal and opposite force exerted on the strut tower BY the strut assembly. We can solve for F3 if we do a balance of torque's around the outer ball joint (where the control arm attaches to the strut). What we get is: F1(L2) = F3(L1) or, F3 = F1(L2/L1) Now, we already know F1 = 1350 lbs. And we can determine L1 and L2 from a quick measurement of an M3 (L1 = 24.3" and L2 =6.0"). Thus F3 = 333lbs. So the conclusion is that when an M3 corners at 1G with 100% weight transfer at the front wheels, there is a 333 lb force pulling OUT on the outer strut tower. Since the inside wheel is un-loaded there is no corresponding force generated at the inside strut tower. Therefore a strut tower bar tends to be in tension, not compression as is often believed. Now we ask ourselves: How critical is a force of 333 lbs pulling on the outer strut tower? This 333 lb load amounts to about 12% of the car's total weight. Even though the strut tower is designed mainly to manage vertical forces , 333 lbs in the horizontal direction is not going to permanently deform the chassis. But the problem is that this force is repeatedly applied over many cycles during the life of the car. The more you drive it hard the more cycles you generate. This can lead to fatigue failure of the material that forms the strut tower (or where the strut tower attaches to the inner fender well). What a strut bar does is tie the two strut towers together so that they share the load applied at the outer tower. This gives you twice as much material to deal with the same cornering force and helps reduce fatigue stress in this area. Another point to consider is that if your outer strut tower is deflected outwards 0.20" by this 333 lb force, then you just lost 0.5° of negative camber! If it deflects 0.42" you have lost a full degree of negative camber. This demonstration has hopefully illustrated how a strut tower bar can be beneficial. But what about the possibility of a strut tower bar being under compression? This is examined on page 2 » Figure 1
 
Contrary to the simplified analysis on the previous page, many people believe that a strut tower bar is predominantly under compression, not tension. This assertion is partially born out in some cars where the strut towers gradually move closer together over time. And I have heard of incidents where the strut tower bar was instrumented with strain gauges as the car was driven around. These tests show the strut tower bar is under compression as well as tension, depending on what the car is doing. One test showed that the highest loads recorded on the strut bar were in compression as the car was pulling out of a garage (sideways down an inclined driveway - we have all heard a stiff car twist under this condition).

So what is this all about? Is a strut tower bar under tension or compression? One likely theory is that it experiences both. It just depends on the driving conditions. Cornering on smooth asphalt induces tension. Driving in a straight line over bumps induces compression. A force diagram illustrating how compression forces result from driving in a straight line (over a bump) is shown in Figure 2:


The left side of the figure shows the resultant forces acting ON the strut tower assembly. Force 1 is the road holding the car up, and force 2 is the weight of the car. Forces 3 and 4 result to stop the strut from spinning (they counter the moment produced by forces 1 & 2). Force 4 of course has an opposite and equal reaction force which is Force 5. This is shown on the right (in green) and is the resulting compression force on the strut tower.

Bear in mind that when the car encounters a sharp bump or dip in the pavement that the chassis may momentarily experience 3 or 4 G's. This means that F1 and F2 in Figure 2 could equal about 2800 lbs! F3 and F4 (and therefore F5) are much smaller, but could still be quite significant. To calculate F5 more precisely requires some measurements. I will get to this eventually.

In conclusion, some cars spend most of their lives driving in a straight line. Such cars might experience the strut towers moving together over time. Track cars spend a lot of their time cornering at over 1G. Thus a track car might see it's strut towers spread apart over the years. Thus a strut tower bar can be under tension OR compression depending on the environment that the car is operated in.

Figure 2
 
I don't think my old jalopy can corner at 1G before breaking something :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Originally posted by ALBundy@Jan 17 2005, 04:43 AM
I don't think my old jalopy can corner at 1G before breaking something :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Bundy

Your old Jalopy??? :ph34r:
Or your old heart! :p
 
I know when I corner in the kart my neck is compressed one side and I have a lot of tension trying to figure out how to keep my head straight......maybe I should try the neck brace - the equivalent of a strut bar in karting?

Alvin, get me a HANS device from Europe can ah? Sauber team factory sure have one.......
 
Originally posted by e21jbk@Jan 17 2005, 01:00 PM
Why Mfg did not include in the new car?..
Some manufacturers do. Saab 9-3 Aero has a strut bar as standard spec. If you ask me I'd say it should be standard spec in Kanchils especially! A friend of mine says he can see his Kanchils bonnet bulging everytime he takes a fast corner. It's because his strut bar is bending and pushing up against the bonnet. Now imagine a Kanchil without a strut bar!
 
the diagram is idealised. a lot of modern cars have the strut towers near the firewall. the firewall itself is a load bearing member. so yes, theoretically a strutbar does carry some load. but how much that load is depends highly on the location of the strut towers in relation to the other chassis members.

ive noticed that in most modern cars, the front upper strut bar is 90% cosmetic and 10% performance. i've found more gains from a rear strut bar than from a front every time.

redd
 
Originally posted by Redd@Jan 17 2005, 07:52 PM
the diagram is idealised. a lot of modern cars have the strut towers near the firewall. the firewall itself is a load bearing member. so yes, theoretically a strutbar does carry some load. but how much that load is depends highly on the location of the strut towers in relation to the other chassis members.

ive noticed that in most modern cars, the front upper strut bar is 90% cosmetic and 10% performance. i've found more gains from a rear strut bar than from a front every time.

redd
Ah ha! That could explain why OZFlanker's windscreen is cracking!
 
installed REAR STRUT BRACE after work today.....it works!! Best bang for the buck mod so far for me. Same satisfcation as I felt after installing rear anti rolls. Highly recommended :) :) :)

I already have front strut brace....the fronts didnt give me as much satisfaction....to tell u the truth didnt feel as much diff after the front went on (but it does make the engine bay look 'lebih garang'!)...prolly its becoz I dun push the car enuf to feel its benefits but in the case of the REAR BRACE....whoa! Nothing subtle there! Definite improvement in the way the car corners....feels more planted ....it is best felt on long sweepers....excellent!!

My thanks to 535i for his assistance here....this is a good un mate!!
 
Have a buddy of mine who works for the Subaru rally team... his advice was not too play around with strut bars as they might do more harm than good at the end of the day...

Not trying to stir things up but my 0.02 rupiahs...

Cheers..
Boon Han
 
Originally posted by OSFlanker@Jan 17 2005, 01:56 AM
I know when I corner in the kart my neck is compressed one side and I have a lot of tension trying to figure out how to keep my head straight......maybe I should try the neck brace - the equivalent of a strut bar in karting?

Alvin, get me a HANS device from Europe can ah? Sauber team factory sure have one.......
don't waste money on HANS... spend wisely... get massage... much cheaper and more enjoyable...
 
Originally posted by e23_728i@Jan 18 2005, 11:04 PM
Have a buddy of mine who works for the Subaru rally team... his advice was not too play around with strut bars as they might do more harm than good at the end of the day...

Not trying to stir things up but my 0.02 rupiahs...

Cheers..
Boon Han
harm is when there's a side collision.... Proper strut bars are those which would bend or break off at the weld seams upon impact to prevent the strut tower on the far side from being pushed out of alignment...

However if the impact is that bad, then it's aledi going to cause ur a lot of headaches anyway...
 
Originally posted by fabianyee@Jan 19 2005, 10:00 AM
harm is when there's a side collision.... Proper strut bars are those which would bend or break off at the weld seams upon impact to prevent the strut tower on the far side from being pushed out of alignment...

However if the impact is that bad, then it's aledi going to cause ur a lot of headaches anyway...
oh, like dat ka... lucky mine lauya one... if kena bang on the side i think that strut bar going to patah first before it can push the opposite strut tower anywhere...
 
Originally posted by ALBundy@Jan 17 2005, 12:43 PM
I don't think my old jalopy can corner at 1G before breaking something :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
But way before 1G, you will be sliding and probably making donuts already. :lol: :lol:
 
Just like to know, why some strut bars i.e sparco's have the tubing fully welded to the strut tower plate and some struts are bolted to the strut tower plate. Is it simply to allow easier instalation. Structurally its not as rigid as a fully welded model as u are still allowing flexing of the sub-structure if the strut bars are allowed to pivot.
 
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