Need help, m54 engine makan engine oil

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same problem here...M54 2.5....need to top up 1 litter every 700km of journey...i'm currently using 5w 40 fully syntetic....went to my mechanic...he check everything...no oil leak at all..no white smoke in the morning...he also ramm the engine at about 5000rpm to 6000rpm only the brown or maybe black smoke came out from the exhaust but not much...he told me it was normal....and then he just put some addictive n advise me to switch oil to 15w 40 semi on my next service...if the problem still persist..he advise me to do full overhaul....:eek:....about rm3k to 4k...:eek:
 
shawnc;714511 said:
added a litre of engine oil last night, but the check engine light is still on...weird
could it have been because the oil levels went too low?

Just check the engine oil stick u will know enough oil or not. After that plug in the scanner to check oil level sensor got problem or not.
 
also the rear main seal (flywheel oil seal) can leak when cold. park the car on clean flooring and do a cold start. meaning, idle the engine from water temp cold right till half mark, normal operating temp. this should easily take about 20 mins from cold. then remove car and see if any oil leak on floor.
 
Just an update guys, have been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 (Semi Synth), but need to top up 1 litre oil every 1k Miles (1,600km).
No leak on the floor, no white smoke, no vacuum leaks and pressure is fine (mechanic checked), only thing is engine has slight shudder on cold startups. Other than that, no other symptoms, engine is quiet, idling no shakes.
Mechanic suggests to leave it there overnight for thorough checks.

Could just be old valve seals giving way?
 
Have the same prob now, m monitoring the situation. Need to know ur solution.
Pls update if u ve solved it, tx
 
Finally no check engine light for almost 2 weeks now, problem was the crankcase valve, an oil separator. So far so good, although have not checked oil levels yet so far.
 
Hello bro, i own a 320ci as well and mine is having the exact same problem as yours. If you are using fully syn engine oil, i suggest u use semi from now on. 10w40 is good. You can try using engine additives to make it better eg. Blue chem or Lambda primer set. It works for me. Many bmw specialist told me its normal for old bmw engine to makan minyak. Try not flooring the throttle so much as it burns the oil. I always floor it so i have to top up abit every once a month. And you have one other problem thats similar to mine a week back. Check for misfire using the BMW diagnostic tool and u might have to replace your Plug coil. I suggest you bring it to a bmw specialist to do a full check up. =)
 
Hi guys..

Having similar problem with my 320 2.2L.. makan minyak. Using 10-40W and have to top up once in a while. So far so good, but the mechanic did advice to do top overhaul. still considering..
 
how much is your total Mileage? my foreman told me that mileage 200000+ engine will makan minyak , overhual around 300000 mileage.
 
mine is about 190k km...is it normal to topup minyak hitam after 700km to 800km of journey?:eek:
 
Yeah. It actually depends on how u drive. If u floor the throttle most of the time then its possible. Top up abit is normal.
 
Being using of this Fully Synthetic for 24k km for three times routine oil changed on my old junk and it's doesn't need any top up.

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syam325i;742693 said:
mine is about 190k km...is it normal to topup minyak hitam after 700km to 800km of journey?:eek:

I think 700-800km topup is abit too much, might have leaks somewhere. I used to top up mine too, but after changing the crankcase valve, no problems thus far. Better get it checked bro.
 
bro shawnc is crankcase valve is also call oil separator? right me if i'm wrong....just changed oil separator n all 4 hose that comes together with it...bad news still the same...:(...i think the only solution is to do top overhoul.....
 
yea its the oil separator...kept throwing up check engine light....now its fine....

maybe your valve seals?
 
shawnc;754161 said:
yea its the oil separator...kept throwing up check engine light....now its fine....

maybe your valve seals?

yup i also think its valve seals...but just spends about 2.8k last month..:eek:...so at the moment just top it up...
 
syam325i;753284 said:
bro shawnc is crankcase valve is also call oil separator? right me if i'm wrong....just changed oil separator n all 4 hose that comes together with it...bad news still the same...:(...i think the only solution is to do top overhoul.....

Why did u change the ccv (cranckcase ventilator) in the 1st place? Perhaps recommended by the workshop? I think faulty ccv symptoms are more related to engine breathing not leaking. Btw how much it cost u? Hopefully u can solve your problem in quick & cheap manner.
 
huskar3399;754188 said:
Why did u change the ccv (cranckcase ventilator) in the 1st place? Perhaps recommended by the workshop? I think faulty ccv symptoms are more related to engine breathing not leaking. Btw how much it cost u? Hopefully u can solve your problem in quick & cheap manner.

i did a searching so cheapest solution is to changed the oil separator first...yeah i know ccv is not related to engine leaking cause my engine is not leaking like i said before no leaking and no smoking exhaust...it cost me about rm 240 for the ccv n another rm460 for the hoses that link to this ccv...
 
syam325i;754202 said:
i did a searching so cheapest solution is to changed the oil separator first...yeah i know ccv is not related to engine leaking cause my engine is not leaking like i said before no leaking and no smoking exhaust...it cost me about rm 240 for the ccv n another rm460 for the hoses that link to this ccv...

The price including labor cost? Usually when uninstalling the ccv, the 4 hoses easily get snapped because of aging. I just read and found out that ccv is mainly to condense the oil mist and return it to oil sump via oil dipstick. Sorry if I get too involved. Now making revision to diy my ccv. Hehe.
 
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