Engine Oil for E60??

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grossypinnocchio

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What brand and type of oil is good for E60?? Petronas, Shell or Castrol?? All this while i always thought Castrol is good to beemer (which i really stick to this brand due to its API rating) coz its been recommended and stated on the engine cap but why still so many workshop is saying different thing... please advise...
 
In Europe, Total is highly recommended 4 UDMs n my personal favourite 2 since my last M50 has done 400,000km n still goin very strong wif Total lubricants...hv u tried them? :cool:
 
wolverine;411969 said:
In Europe, Total is highly recommended 4 UDMs n my personal favourite 2 since my last M50 has done 400,000km n still goin very strong wif Total lubricants...hv u tried them? :cool:
400,000 KM using Total from begining till now? never overhaul your engine after 400,000? still good condition your engine? wow amazing
 
Bro - go try PETRONAS Syntium 5000 0/40W..... From my experience - it's by far the best oil I've ever used......... you can really feel the difference before and after.... would improve yr fuel consumption also.....
 
dont think about the brands la.. just make sure the specs are correct...BMW LL04. which i believe just a select few oils have. castrol EDGE is one of em :)
 
AMSoil SSO 0w-30 has the necessary HT/HS and is a fine example of an oil which exceeds requirements for your engine, but does not carry the BMW Approval, for a number of frivolous reasons.

Depending on your driving cycles, a 30 weight oil might be desirable. One like Valvoline MaxLife would be high on my list. Perhaps Castrol Edge 5w-30 or SLX 0w-30. Those are both common "Werkstadt" oils, Edge 0w-40 being less common excepting the M-Series or cars which see track duty. The final call on visc depends on your oil temps. Do you exceed +100c?
 
If you have been using Castrol all these times, and happy about it, just stick with Castrol.
There are alot of discussion about engine oils in the past, try searching for it.
 
OK My experience, My race car (lotus) lasted 2 laps of Sepang with Syntium, I asked Petronas for some technical info such as olifin contents and molecular chain lengths and they said ‘trade secret’, I said 'But Castrol publish it', so I said OK I am free to draw my own conclusions from the fact you will not disclose info on your oil, and I will not use Petronas Oil again, (I think it breaks down at high relatively low sump oil temperature, but this is only my opinion from one experience, but the engine rebuild cost 50,000 Rm so I will not try again with Petronas Oil)
Oil does one thing it lubricates, (but you may also need to consider life, and cleaning properties),
Lubrication relies on the ability to withstand shear pressure, and temperature (when it is in place) and of course viscosity( to get to the right place), any good SL SM oil will do in a road car, I'm told Mobil one breaks down at 130 degree C, and Castrol RS and 140C, I can get a bulk oil temperature of 125C in my race car, on the road oil temperature is irrelevant, you should not be an where near a high enough temp to break the oil, but the race car uses Castrol RS for this reason.
Cleaning properties, you get what you pay for, look at the additives,
Synthetic oil does not lubricate significantly better, it last longer, make the choice, initial cost to number of oil changes, bur remember there are two definitions of Synthetic Oil, Marketing Synthetic and Chemically Synthetic, (this arose from a court case were BP claimed an oil to be synthetic, but it did not have a fully 'synthetic' molecular structure) the info I get is that any oil that is not 3 times or more the price of a mineral is a ‘marketing’ oil and the word synthetic does not have the meaning a chemist would wish to apply.
Also my research is that no oil company will willingly guarantee oil for more than 15,000KM, the claims to a higher life are made by car manufactures to get a one year service interval in Europe (typically 20,000KM), and remember in Europe Oil is the same price as here, but an oil change can cost 600 Rm in labour only, so it is worth paying for a long life oil and changing less often, not the case here were labour is cheaper.
Also remember that in Malaysia you do not need to pay for oils that perform well at very low ambient temperatures i.e. 0 and 5 oils.
And you do not want synthetic oil in a new engine, you want a bit of wear, so the rings will ‘bed in’, so use a mineral oil for the fist 500KM (again car manufactures do not do this because it cost money to change oil and it inconveniences customers who have bought a new car and must bring it back to the garage after a week).
And don’t listen to car manufactures that say only one brand will do, no refinery in the world makes oil just for Peradua, look at the viscosity you need and the API rating, (SL or SM are the latest I think)
So my recommendation Castrol RS and change every 10
 
If you have a valvetronic E60 (i.e. N52 instead of M54), definitely get an oil which is BMW LL04 approved. Else you'd be looking at some serious sludging issues on your engine overtime. BMW has a specific oil certification for valvetronic engines. Some speculation is that the valvetronic mechanism which relies on air actuation results in oil frothing/foaming which builds up sludge. So choose your oils wisely.
 
Engine oil in N46 aluminum alloy block also drying la.. 10k km 0.75L needed for 5W-30.. so culprit should not be the N52 magnesium alloy block.

I'm on Syntium SC oil now (I think 5w-30)... engine very quiet and pickup a little too civilised to my liking (tight new car feel) compare to my previous livelier Torco SR1 5W-30. Next stop.. Castrol SLX 0W-30.. :wink: Cheaper than Torco.. :p
 
Ya true. But got no E60's equipped with the N46 hehe. Culprit seems to be the valvetronic system.
 
quote, definitely get an oil which is BMW LL04 approved.

I assume you mean a brand, in which case, I wouldn't agree with you, assuming your car is out of warranty, get a SPECIFICATION that BMW approve, the oil brand is subject to which company BMW like, if your in warranty then you need to conform to BMW wishes and go for their 'brand'. Sludging is aquestion of what addatives are in so again look at the specifcation.

Very intersting article on the BBC site last week E30 325, run by BMW and MObil for 1,000,000 miles, on mobil 1, stripped and no measurble engine wear. Sounds great but the oil change interval was 6,000 miles, not the 10 0r 12 they state on the adverts.

Ge the latest spec API (SM I think) change it regurlay, and as I said before why do you need a 0 oil in Malaysia?
BMW do not make Oil Spark Plugs, Filters etc, so if out of warranty buy on specifcation not brand.
I've worked for car suppliers and products come of the production line, and then put into various boxes for car manufactures, labelled as thier product and they are all the same specifcation.
 
This has been a dillema for awhile now.Maybe sifus here can start listing the prices and rankings of oil?
 
I just started using Motul 300V at RM100 per liter(yes,you read correct,per liter) and I can't really tell the bloody difference.Did I tell you that my car needs close to 8 liters per change?


Is that a king's ransom ?
 
Motul are great as a "racing oil"
Not so great for road use because lacking of "detergent" compare to more common engine oil like Castrol.

As I said before, and I repeat again:
1. Just go find yourself a oil brand that you are comfortable
2. buy oil that you can afford
3. choose oil that meet the MB229.1 (prefer MB229.3) / VW 505.00 / ACEA A3
4. weight Xw-30 to Xw-50 (to reason to go above 50),
5. and change it every 5k or 10k for synthetic.

Reseachers says no is no singificant different for an engine that traveled 300,000km , between regular oil or Full Synthetic.
I use full synthetic because I lazy to change oil at every 5k.

But I won't recommend Motul. Their brake oil are great for very high boiling point, but their engine oil.... :rolleyes:
 
turbology;453097 said:
Motul are great as a "racing oil"
Not so great for road use because lacking of "detergent" compare to more common engine oil like Castrol.

As I said before, and I repeat again:
1. Just go find yourself a oil brand that you are comfortable
2. buy oil that you can afford
3. choose oil that meet the MB229.1 (prefer MB229.3) / VW 505.00 / ACEA A3
4. weight Xw-30 to Xw-50 (to reason to go above 50),
5. and change it every 5k or 10k for synthetic.

Reseachers says no is no singificant different for an engine that traveled 300,000km , between regular oil or Full Synthetic.
I use full synthetic because I lazy to change oil at every 5k.

But I won't recommend Motul. Their brake oil are great for very high boiling point, but their engine oil.... :rolleyes:

Hmmm...sounds like RM 800 was a waste.....like I suggested before maybe we could start some kinda vote for the most preferred oil for the E60s? This is gonna be very usefull to newbies like me when it comes to BMW engines since I've been told that Beemers have very sensitive motors.Looks like we're still stuck in a dillema....bummer...
 
If you haven't notice, CASTROL ads is at the very top page of BMWCM forum.
Majority of us use Castrol, Shell, Mobil. There's no need for new thread. :)

Cheers
 
turbology;453275 said:
If you haven't notice, CASTROL ads is at the very top page of BMWCM forum.
Majority of us use Castrol, Shell, Mobil. There's no need for new thread. :)

Cheers

With due respect Mr.turbology,no I didn't notice the ad at the top and forgive me for my ignorance.No,I didn't know that most of you learned members here only use Castrol,Shell or Mobil.Hence the reason why not so learned newbies like me ask these questions.Some of us are also not so computer savvy and we fumble when it comes to finding the right thread where a certain topic had been discussed extensively.

Maybe a simple link to the thread would suffice?No sir,I'm not planning to create new threads just for the sake of it.What I clearly don't understand is though,why the animosity here in our local BMWCM forum?
 
wow...then it makes no sense at all for BMW AG to print the Castrol name on the oil filler cap...its ok not to notice the ads but the oil filler cap???...why not just stick to the recommended oil? why wan to be more pandai than the manufacturer? Either way, if you visited other car forums as well, then u shud notice that the subject of oil is sensative, never ending and it is solely based on your own liking and preference to use which brand at the end of the day...

i notice nowadays some newbies like to ask every single thing come to their mind without doing their own research and study first...last time i wan to ask also sked kena shoot so i always do my research first...
 
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