E36 Speaker
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Vanquish
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Wang,
I think it's a 5.25 inch unit as well but it has a special enclosure to improve low end response. Yeah, the pod like thingy in which the speakers are placed. Most aftermarket speakers won't fit into this pod since the original stock Nokia's have thin magnets.
Upgrading ka ???
Cheers,
I think it's a 5.25 inch unit as well but it has a special enclosure to improve low end response. Yeah, the pod like thingy in which the speakers are placed. Most aftermarket speakers won't fit into this pod since the original stock Nokia's have thin magnets.
Upgrading ka ???
Cheers,
T
three28
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Hmmmm,.......
I see some racunning to start here :nyehehe:
I see some racunning to start here :nyehehe:
musclehedz
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I'm going to go into my ICE soon. So my plan is to put speakers on the front door, rear door and rear panels and subs in the boot of course.
So in this case, how can I mount the speakers in the rear panel if there is no hole or the hole is too small and I don't want to cut the structural part of the chassis.
So in this case, how can I mount the speakers in the rear panel if there is no hole or the hole is too small and I don't want to cut the structural part of the chassis.
Vanquish
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Wang,
Called up my installer earlier who's still keeping my ol stock speakers like they are worth something some day. Yup .. the rear ones are about 4 inches or so ... they look bigger becos of the speaker pods. You may have to mod the rear panels if you're planning to put anything bigger.
MH,
There's 2 ways you can do this. Go with the usual front staging 2.1 set up - a pair of 5.25 or 6 inch comps up front and a sub in the boot - rear speakers removed. Or, take the 5.1 / 4.1 set up with a fronts comps, rear fill for back passengers and a sub in the boot. Centre speaker optional - a plus point if you play a lot of movies and surround stuff in your car. Do note however that more speakers in car the does not necessarily mean excellent sound quality.
Adding a sub in the E36 is not as easy as most Jap or other Conti rides. The boot is well sealed so if you add a sub in the back and do not remove the rear speakers to create a vent of a sorts, the bass notes will not be heard or felt that much. Or, you may need 2 subs in the boot either in a sealed or ported enclosure but be prepared to lose some boot space. A pair of free air subs works pretty well but again, this will be very much dependent on tuning.
A lot things will be dependent on a couple of important factors -
1. What sort of set-up are you aiming for ? SQ or SPL ?
2. Budget ? How much money are you planning to spend ?
Once you've got this worked out ... then we can inject some racuns .... I mean suggest some options.
Mike,
The thin magnet designs are now quite usual for a lot brands. But no matter what, the front stock location does not accept any thing bigger than a 5.25 mid unit. You want a 6 or inch mid unit, do what Affan did and get some custom door panel or kick panels. BTW, the stock front location offers very good imaging and staging despite what I have said in the past ... the only drawback is that mid bass or the lack of it could an issue to some.
Called up my installer earlier who's still keeping my ol stock speakers like they are worth something some day. Yup .. the rear ones are about 4 inches or so ... they look bigger becos of the speaker pods. You may have to mod the rear panels if you're planning to put anything bigger.
MH,
There's 2 ways you can do this. Go with the usual front staging 2.1 set up - a pair of 5.25 or 6 inch comps up front and a sub in the boot - rear speakers removed. Or, take the 5.1 / 4.1 set up with a fronts comps, rear fill for back passengers and a sub in the boot. Centre speaker optional - a plus point if you play a lot of movies and surround stuff in your car. Do note however that more speakers in car the does not necessarily mean excellent sound quality.
Adding a sub in the E36 is not as easy as most Jap or other Conti rides. The boot is well sealed so if you add a sub in the back and do not remove the rear speakers to create a vent of a sorts, the bass notes will not be heard or felt that much. Or, you may need 2 subs in the boot either in a sealed or ported enclosure but be prepared to lose some boot space. A pair of free air subs works pretty well but again, this will be very much dependent on tuning.
A lot things will be dependent on a couple of important factors -
1. What sort of set-up are you aiming for ? SQ or SPL ?
2. Budget ? How much money are you planning to spend ?
Once you've got this worked out ... then we can inject some racuns .... I mean suggest some options.
Mike,
The thin magnet designs are now quite usual for a lot brands. But no matter what, the front stock location does not accept any thing bigger than a 5.25 mid unit. You want a 6 or inch mid unit, do what Affan did and get some custom door panel or kick panels. BTW, the stock front location offers very good imaging and staging despite what I have said in the past ... the only drawback is that mid bass or the lack of it could an issue to some.
musclehedz
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1. Wats SQ or SPL?
2. The limit is the sky
but seriously if don't have to spend millions just to get a very good setup, that's good.3. I would prefer 7.1 if they have it for ICE or 5.1 would do fine. No TFT displays on the rear seats like some do it, it's nice but I'll be getting racing seats so no point.
4. As for boot space, I'm prepared to let go the whole space just for the ICE components.
Ok. So let me have the poison.
* I have only 1 requirement that must be met...the HU, the display and buttons must be only in either red or amber. The display can be multi color OLE displays but I don't want the button and all multi colored and also must be 1DIN, I don't want 2 DIN. And the HU itself must only be black and/or chrome.
Vanquish
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MH,
Wanted to reply you last nite itself but my brain was not working .. Anyway ... here goes -
SQ - Sound Quality based set-up. The main aim is reproduction of music in the most realistic sense. Focus is more on staging, tonality, clarity and balance and equipment matching Much more harder to set up and hours of tuning is required to achieve the best sound. A bit more expensive as you will need to have some quality ( not necessarily expensive ) gears to do the job.
SPL - Sound Pressure Level based set-up. The main aim here is go loud with plenty of bass. I've heard a couple of E36s here with some real loud SPL systems ... too loud for my mellow taste.
Equipment matching and etc are not as important here as it is with a SQ set-up.
Okay ... back to the suggestions.
HU - the heart of any system. You have an option of going with a normal CD player - single disc or with a changer at the back. Do look our for atleast 2 or more hi-volt pre-outs for expansion and connection to external amps. A sub out connection is also essential. Some basic sound shaping functions are required - EQ and Time Allignment will be very helpful to tune and improvise the system. The E36 cabin is not easy to work with so TA will be a help. To match the dash and your request - look at some nice models from Clarion & Alpine where you can change the button and display to match the E36 amber and Nakamichi too has amber display models... Pioneers are nice too but they are too much into this electric blue stuff.
Or, take the multi-media option of putting in an in-dash DVD/CD player with a built in TFT monitor. Again, look for our the above functions and DTS/Dolby decoding functionsand etc. Options will be from Pioneer, Eclipse, Alpine and Kenwood. Avoid those China made ones, they don't last and are problematic.
Forget about the 7.1 set up, Bro. They are more for home use and will sound no different from a normal 5 speaker stereo set up if you ask me. This is what I wud suggest .... only suggesting -
Music based system
HU - either of the above brands. Single dics with a changer if needed.
Front amp - a 4 channel amp to power front/rear speakers.
Front components - a 5.25 inch comps set with tweeters / x-overs. Look at Focal, DLS, Eton, Dyns, PHD and etc ...
Rear fills - get a simple pair of co-axials from the same brands as fronts. Set them up in the rear - tuned just enough to provide rear fill to the rear passengers. Don't want them to over-power the fronts and muck up the sound.
Sub amp - a Class D monoblock preferred. More efficient, runs cooler and does not draw so much power from your batt.
Sub - tonnes of options here. 2 x 10 inchers / 1 x 12 inchers or any other combi you wish. Look at some nice ones from JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Xtant, Focal, ol school Phoenix Gold ...
AV based system.
HU - an in-dash DVD/VCD/CD player with TFT monitor
Decoder - optional
Most AV package will give you an option for the amp - a 5 channel with matching front and rear speakers plus the sub. Center speaker is optional. I'm not very familiar with AV set-ups but let me know if you are looking at one - will do my best to help.
Over to you, bro ...
Wanted to reply you last nite itself but my brain was not working .. Anyway ... here goes -
SQ - Sound Quality based set-up. The main aim is reproduction of music in the most realistic sense. Focus is more on staging, tonality, clarity and balance and equipment matching Much more harder to set up and hours of tuning is required to achieve the best sound. A bit more expensive as you will need to have some quality ( not necessarily expensive ) gears to do the job.
SPL - Sound Pressure Level based set-up. The main aim here is go loud with plenty of bass. I've heard a couple of E36s here with some real loud SPL systems ... too loud for my mellow taste.
Equipment matching and etc are not as important here as it is with a SQ set-up.
Okay ... back to the suggestions.
HU - the heart of any system. You have an option of going with a normal CD player - single disc or with a changer at the back. Do look our for atleast 2 or more hi-volt pre-outs for expansion and connection to external amps. A sub out connection is also essential. Some basic sound shaping functions are required - EQ and Time Allignment will be very helpful to tune and improvise the system. The E36 cabin is not easy to work with so TA will be a help. To match the dash and your request - look at some nice models from Clarion & Alpine where you can change the button and display to match the E36 amber and Nakamichi too has amber display models... Pioneers are nice too but they are too much into this electric blue stuff.
Or, take the multi-media option of putting in an in-dash DVD/CD player with a built in TFT monitor. Again, look for our the above functions and DTS/Dolby decoding functionsand etc. Options will be from Pioneer, Eclipse, Alpine and Kenwood. Avoid those China made ones, they don't last and are problematic.
Forget about the 7.1 set up, Bro. They are more for home use and will sound no different from a normal 5 speaker stereo set up if you ask me. This is what I wud suggest .... only suggesting -
Music based system
HU - either of the above brands. Single dics with a changer if needed.
Front amp - a 4 channel amp to power front/rear speakers.
Front components - a 5.25 inch comps set with tweeters / x-overs. Look at Focal, DLS, Eton, Dyns, PHD and etc ...
Rear fills - get a simple pair of co-axials from the same brands as fronts. Set them up in the rear - tuned just enough to provide rear fill to the rear passengers. Don't want them to over-power the fronts and muck up the sound.
Sub amp - a Class D monoblock preferred. More efficient, runs cooler and does not draw so much power from your batt.
Sub - tonnes of options here. 2 x 10 inchers / 1 x 12 inchers or any other combi you wish. Look at some nice ones from JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Xtant, Focal, ol school Phoenix Gold ...
AV based system.
HU - an in-dash DVD/VCD/CD player with TFT monitor
Decoder - optional
Most AV package will give you an option for the amp - a 5 channel with matching front and rear speakers plus the sub. Center speaker is optional. I'm not very familiar with AV set-ups but let me know if you are looking at one - will do my best to help.
Over to you, bro ...
wirelessjunkie
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MH,
Free this Saturday? Follow me to Tehnichi's bash at 6pm.
Free this Saturday? Follow me to Tehnichi's bash at 6pm.
Van, he said, the sky is the limit maa, so ... here goes,
Why not for the HU, to look at Alpine 98 series, Phantom face, Eclipse 8454 or 8455, Clarion D2 or the P9. Except for the Alpine 98 series, most of the HU got in built EQ and crossover, will be handy in future expansion and looking for that specific band (based on my sad experience unfortunately).
If only go for music without the DVD set-up in mind, you can opt for a simple set-up -front comp and a sub. For this you can go on a single 4 channel amp (2 channel for the comp and bridg the other for the sub) or 2 amp (1 for the comp and 1 for the sub).
Amp, there's a lot of good amp out there - Alpine (the F1 status), Genesis, DLS, Steg, Tru, Audison etc. depend on the budget and matching. Same goes for speaker n sub, some swear for Dyn others Focal, Eton, Morel, DLS, CDT, Scan, Seas etc.
Dont forget about the cabling, RCA and all the other goodies.
Just a word of caution.. Do not be seduced by the power of the dark side, once you take the path there is no turning back.
Why not for the HU, to look at Alpine 98 series, Phantom face, Eclipse 8454 or 8455, Clarion D2 or the P9. Except for the Alpine 98 series, most of the HU got in built EQ and crossover, will be handy in future expansion and looking for that specific band (based on my sad experience unfortunately).
If only go for music without the DVD set-up in mind, you can opt for a simple set-up -front comp and a sub. For this you can go on a single 4 channel amp (2 channel for the comp and bridg the other for the sub) or 2 amp (1 for the comp and 1 for the sub).
Amp, there's a lot of good amp out there - Alpine (the F1 status), Genesis, DLS, Steg, Tru, Audison etc. depend on the budget and matching. Same goes for speaker n sub, some swear for Dyn others Focal, Eton, Morel, DLS, CDT, Scan, Seas etc.
Dont forget about the cabling, RCA and all the other goodies.
Just a word of caution.. Do not be seduced by the power of the dark side, once you take the path there is no turning back.
musclehedz
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Ok. Now I know what's SQ and SPL. I'm not a 'loud' person. I want bass that is punchy and heart felt not boomy AhBeng type that can send u to the ICU ward in 10 seconds for heart failure due to excessive low vibration shocks.
I've seen the Alpine and Clarion units, even though they are expensive and high end top notch, but the looks just don't appeal to me which is not my type. I was looking at this JVC top model(forgot the model) which has got SDRAM function. I saw that unit and the looks fit my taste. I've also searched for the function that you guys mentioned in particular the time phase, it has also that function and I think it comes with 5 pre-outs. So what you think of it?
As for the subs, is 2 x 12" or 2 x 10" better in the boot better? I was thinking of Kicker coz they sure look nice and fierce to me.
I was also looking at those Rockford Fosgate Amps. I can't remember what series/model but they have one that is CHROMED and with RED lights. I do like what I see but sound good or not I don't know. So how?
I've seen the Alpine and Clarion units, even though they are expensive and high end top notch, but the looks just don't appeal to me which is not my type. I was looking at this JVC top model(forgot the model) which has got SDRAM function. I saw that unit and the looks fit my taste. I've also searched for the function that you guys mentioned in particular the time phase, it has also that function and I think it comes with 5 pre-outs. So what you think of it?
As for the subs, is 2 x 12" or 2 x 10" better in the boot better? I was thinking of Kicker coz they sure look nice and fierce to me.
I was also looking at those Rockford Fosgate Amps. I can't remember what series/model but they have one that is CHROMED and with RED lights. I do like what I see but sound good or not I don't know. So how?
musclehedz
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Thanks for the invite but won't be in town this weekend. Another time than
