BMW original sound system

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no sure what you mean but of course, new wiring/cables needs to be connected from the amp in the boot to the Head Unit. The power cable from the battery to the amp is short because the battery is in the boot also. The cable from amp to the sub also short because both located in the boot.

Then you need very long cables from the head unit to the amp inputs.

FYI, the original position of the tweeters are not the proper position. it is there to "look nicer" only. Having one of the tweeters so close to you makes the sound staging/imaging not good.
 
stephen...

can it be the sensor in the front passenger seat?

Mine got the same problem b4 my car dealer changed that board...
 
Originally posted by stephen@May 5 2006, 01:01 PM
no sure what you mean but of course, new wiring/cables needs to be connected from the amp in the boot to the Head Unit. The power cable from the battery to the amp is short because the battery is in the boot also. The cable from amp to the sub also short because both located in the boot.

Then you need very long cables from the head unit to the amp inputs.

FYI, the original position of the tweeters are not the proper position. it is there to "look nicer" only. Having one of the tweeters so close to you makes the sound staging/imaging not good.
Hi Stephen,

I meant that the original BMW head unit do not support external amp so I wonder how you manage to connect your cables to the head unit?

Well I fitted an aftermarket head unit because of this issue and the fact I don't like opening my trunk to access my cd changer.

All this talk is making me gatal again. Think I go adjust my tweeter position soon to get my sound stage. Last time on my E36 like MPO playing Star Wars Opening theme song in front of me. Really good :eek:k:
 
Bro leakwoon,

I am low end ice guy only. Those things are expensive :D. Most of the stuff carry over from my previous E36 as the car only got cassette deck so I upgrade a bit la. Then got my E46 the sound so teruk just cannot tahan.

So take out original head unit, add additional subwoofer plus another amp to drive it. My setup very similar to stephens. But the sound is just slightly better because the stupid tweeter still in original location (don't want to have tweeters polluting my dashboards like smart tag).

Looks like i need to sacrifice a bit and position my tweeters nicely.

And to answer your house home theater question. I am using my bose cube speakers which i have gotten from USA. I want to sell it off together with my monster cables. Excellent conditions but not sure how much it will fetch.
 
Another show and tell session? :)

I'm sure some ICE gurus here will help out.
 
Originally posted by valkryie@May 5 2006, 11:59 AM
Bro Stephen,

How you manage to hook up an external amp to the original head unit?

How about converting the head unit's speaker output to pre-amp output? I think AudioControl is selling a device for this purpose.
 
You just need a Hi-to-Low Adaptor (connecting HeadUnit to Amp).

Without that, you will hear some noise in the background.

The tweeters need to be nearer to the windscreen and basically both facing each other. The tweeter further from you can be angled slightly towards you the driver. I do not have a problem with the tweeter not being in the original door position....dont get a huge tweeter lah
 
bro valkryie ...

the subbie for HT

i oledi got la

i check see anyone of my friends wan or not :D

see u in the evening ...
 
Originally posted by mini_jeff67@May 4 2006, 08:49 AM
Powered sub should do the trick - I'm using a 10".

Miri member huh? Now can get a ride the next time I'm in Miri... ;)
Brother,

I'm not a fans for 2 in one thing. I'm a bit sterotype against them. It's sort of lke the 2 in 1 shampoo conditioner, a shampoo and a conditioner always does abetter job.
 
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