US M3 cams or Schrick cams for E36 328

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maco5007

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Which one has better performance? I was thinking of going down the route to have the US M3 cams installed. Can the auto GB handle it? FYI my 328i have the following mods to it (altho some of it are not really considered mods..hahaa..):rock: Alpina 527BBTBM50 Intake ManifoldOversized pulleysVolker plugsBMC CAIE46 M3 Front brakesBilstein Sport Shocks all roundApex springsPIVOT Voltage RegulatorsHIOP Remap
 
Auto GB yes, the extra grunt will only be marginal.

Schrick or US cam, personal preference really. USM3 is more bang for buck, it will give almost all the gain but at only half the price.

Nice mod list you have, a remap will def extract the best from your improved breathing.

--
 
after u install the cams, dun forget to remap the ecu.. then it's going to be fun..

expect 225hps at the engine..
 
from what i heard, the shrick cams a slightly better then the usm3 ones, but the price of this cams a pretty high. the usm3 ones are mostly purchased because its cheaper and does the same job as the schrick with only a slight difference.

correct me if im wrong...

cheers
 
S50 cam specs - Intake/exhaust
Duration 252 / 240
Lift 10.2 / 9.7

S52 cam specs - Intake/Exhaust
" " 252 / 244
" " 10.2 / 10.2

Schrick cam specs for 328 - Intake/Exhaust
" " 252 / 244
" " 10.2 / 9.5
 
Yes you can.

Would probably be better if you have the software that allows the engine to rev to 7k rpm.
 
328 gear boxes don't last long anyway, and with the cams you're pushing the power higher up the rev range where it changes gear. don't expect it to take all the abuse without something going wrong.

looking like there are now 3 guys with alpina527 manifolds in kl.
 
Slide;302997 said:
328 gear boxes don't last long anyway, and with the cams you're pushing the power higher up the rev range where it changes gear. don't expect it to take all the abuse without something going wrong.

looking like there are now 3 guys with alpina527 manifolds in kl.

Hey dude, who are the other 2 guys? :)
 
aaroni;251833 said:
S50 cam specs - Intake/exhaust
Duration 252 / 240
Lift 10.2 / 9.7

S52 cam specs - Intake/Exhaust
" " 252 / 244
" " 10.2 / 10.2

Schrick cam specs for 328 - Intake/Exhaust
" " 252 / 244
" " 10.2 / 9.5


i tot the Schrick specs are 264/256. gives a good bump in hp n torque. dun think, just Nike!! :rock:
 
MAco,

dont bother with the cams as they gives no benefit to an auto car as you will not feel much difference in the performance. minimal as most of the power is only available further up the rev range. on paper, its only good for 5-10hp for that kinda of money, and on top of the price paid for the cams, you will need additional money for tuning and installation. IMHO not worth your money. the total cost would be about double the price of the cams.

if you want performance and for only around 3k ++ , go get a performance tuning for your engine and steptronic gearbox. for engine tuning, you may try ESStuning or hiop (cantact calvin tan). these will easily net about 10% increase in power and more useable rev range. to fully maximised your performance tune, go for a steptronic performance tuning as well, about 2k++, this will reprogram your gearbox with a better shift, ESStuning and dinan has them. both tuning will cost less than the cams+labour. your butt will definately feel this more than the above as well.

ALBundy;302994 said:
Yes you can.

Would probably be better if you have the software that allows the engine to rev to 7k rpm.

albundy, he cant use those cams. those are meant for EURO s50 engine and not US s50/m50/s52/m52 engines. euro s50 has a diferent head and double vanos cams setup. unless he has a complete euro s50 head bolted to his m52 block, he cant use these cams at all.

ramsing;303171 said:
i tot the Schrick specs are 264/256. gives a good bump in hp n torque. dun think, just Nike!! :rock:

ramsing, schrick has the 264/256 too. infact they can even custom made any cam for you, like a 244/256 for SC application. anyway the 264/256 is too aggressive for daily street use hence most would recommend the milder setup. our standard cams are rated at 240/228 so the milder ones are already a big jump and FYI, putting those aggressive cams is only applicable or when you drive your car like a bike, reving the engine to redline all the time as thats where the higher spec cams will perform. for a normal daily drive, putting those aggresive cams in your car will cause a massive drop in you useable torque and a shitty idle and fuel economy gone due to a inefficient engine. F1 cars have 800hp, but try having it tow a kancil from stand still and it cant even move.

Slide;302997 said:
looking like there are now 3 guys with alpina527 manifolds in kl.

hmm i have a slightly larger than "alpina527" spec bbtb and bbASCtb and m50 intake as well but its all done locally. dont see a need to pay all the extra money in shipping charges. so do i count as part of it?
 
Ooopss, you are right, I didnt check that link, thought he was asking bout US Shrick cams :)

Yup, cannot use those cams.

Cheers
 
maco,

sorry, just realized you have a e36 and already have a hiop tune. the above would be relevant should you have a e46 328i.

anyway, for you best bang for buck, go for a manual conversion and maybe along with a higher diff ratio, 3.15 or slighly higher. the e36 is a relatively easy platform to do a conversion, not much of a hassle when compared to later models. most workshop here can tackle it with ease. parts are easy to comeby as well as any e3 318-m3 gearbox will fit your m52. make sure you have a complete set from a matching flywheel and clutch, driveshaft, pedals and diff.

the next ultimate bang for buck would be to get a reputable force induction kit, be it a supercharger or a turbo setup that comes with a DME tuning.
 
leforte....true, he needs a manual gearbox to enjoy the mods to the max. auto's are for girls :D :D
but i tot the 264 cam's are not that aggressive for street. for an auto it might not make sense, but for a manual should be ok if you dont mind a slight drop in torque below 3.5k. but u need the tuning, plus the matching 3.5" airflow and injectors and M50 headers. gives you about 250rwhp. cost is another thing, 3.3k for the cams, 1k for the injectors, 500 for the maf, 2k for the tuning. but then again, if u're floating on cash.... :D
 
hi there, check with u all. the lift for original cam is 9mm. m3 lift is 10.2 and 9.2. the schrick cam is 264/11.2 and256/10.6. If i install this set of schrick cam in my m52b28. will there be enough clearance between the valve and the piston?
 
bmw 328is;303388 said:
hi there, check with u all. the lift for original cam is 9mm. m3 lift is 10.2 and 9.2. the schrick cam is 264/11.2 and256/10.6. If i install this set of schrick cam in my m52b28. will there be enough clearance between the valve and the piston?

it can be fitted, however, do be warn that any of the above cams are useless without additional strenghtening of the valvetrain for high rpm use what more with a aggresive cam that you ask!

ultimately it all depends on how good is the mechanic on cam installation and cam timing ANd if he has the proper tools required to do it. after the installation, a simple hand winding of the engine will tell if its touching the piston at tdc.
 
i'm actually on my 2nd rebuild gear box, trust me, don't do the cams and drive hard. also in my opinion, modding an na car is rather pointless. for the amount of money that i have spent i could be in a real m3. if it's power u want just buy an m car. also, the manaul conversion isn't as fast as everybody thinks it is. my auto is faster.

if u really must do something to your car, get expensive tires.
 
Slide;303428 said:
i'm actually on my 2nd rebuild gear box, trust me, don't do the cams and drive hard. also in my opinion, modding an na car is rather pointless. for the amount of money that i have spent i could be in a real m3. if it's power u want just buy an m car. also, the manaul conversion isn't as fast as everybody thinks it is. my auto is faster.

if u really must do something to your car, get expensive tires.

yea.. finally i got a someone who shares the same thought as me on an automatic. with a stepronic shift, its already good enough for a good butt kick for many on the road.

call me lazy or whatever but dont think i would get a manual in KL. madness.
 
leforte;303405 said:
it can be fitted, however, do be warn that any of the above cams are useless without additional strenghtening of the valvetrain for high rpm use what more with a aggresive cam that you ask!

ultimately it all depends on how good is the mechanic on cam installation and cam timing ANd if he has the proper tools required to do it. after the installation, a simple hand winding of the engine will tell if its touching the piston at tdc.

u are not answering my question. i also know a simple hand winding of the engine will tell if its touching the piston at tdc. my question is what is the clearance between the piston and valve at tdc. even the piston never touch the valve at tdc, it does mean that there is enough clearance. cos at high rpm valve and piston will tend to float and clearance will close up or even hit each other.

in short, anyone here uses this set of cam (schrick 264/11.2 256/10.6) on a m52b28 and it works perfectly.
 
bmw 328is;303456 said:
u are not answering my question. i also know a simple hand winding of the engine will tell if its touching the piston at tdc. my question is what is the clearance between the piston and valve at tdc. even the piston never touch the valve at tdc, it does mean that there is enough clearance. cos at high rpm valve and piston will tend to float and clearance will close up or even hit each other.

in short, anyone here uses this set of cam (schrick 264/11.2 256/10.6) on a m52b28 and it works perfectly.

hey dick! thats you bmw 328is...

i have already answered your question. anyway, this is not a encyclopedia for you. we are not oblige to satisfied your stupid power achiving endeavers when you know nothing about it.

leforte;303405 said:
it can be fitted, however, do be warn that any of the above cams are useless without additional strenghtening of the valvetrain for high rpm use what more with a aggresive cam that you ask!

ultimately it all depends on how good is the mechanic on cam installation and cam timing ANd if he has the proper tools required to do it. after the installation, a simple hand winding of the engine will tell if its touching the piston at tdc.



first of all i have already informed you it fits. as for the valve floating and getting struck by the piston , i have also indicated in my first paragraph the cam is use less without further strengthening. if you cant even get a answer from that, go pay money and have someone do it for you. stop asking here.
 
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