E38 728 I performance enhancement

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BTW I was told, once done you cannot reverse the process.

E28driver;558879 said:
There's been a lot of discussion on the merits of autofoam in local auto forums over the years. I think one of the main concerns expressed was how the foam affects the performance of the chassis crumple zones in the event of a crash. YMMV.
 
Curi thread kejap....sorry .

What is the effect if the C02 sensor kaput?
 
hi Shiva, CO2 means oxygen sensor which is very important to control the air/ fuel mixture in order.
 
Slide;558396 said:
not to be a prick or anything like that, but from my personal experience....

what i am currently running on my m52 2.8
:- air filter with heat shield, custom intake. bigger throttle body & intake manifold.
hotter cams, exhaust headers, no cat and a free flow centre box. custom dyno piggy back unichip remap. and i am still no where close to 30% more power.

from my experince, with before and after dyno charts for all the work i have done.
30% gains from a n/a without opening up the engine is nigh on impossible.
i also have cams in mine too...

for a 728, i would suggest u leave it stock and ride the torque.
save your cash, if u really wanted a faster car, buy a bigger engine and pay the road tax... like niceputra said.

Slide,

I've tune up few engines before from different brands. Too make add power the formula is the same regardless of the engine brand. U put in more air, more fuel and with the correct exit route, it will make power. BUT the key point here is how to put the correct ingredients to make the engine works in harmony thus making more power.

Anybody can do exhaust, intake, cams, port & polish ect. But the same procedures done by different tuners will produce different HP & touque figure. The Q is why? One of the A is that different tuners have diff skill, knowledge & Exp.

Eg - And different point of air filter positions will produce diff resonance so will the diff in the speed of air travelling into the intake manifold. So diff power at diff rpm band. A set degree of cams will only delibrate the full power at a specific compression ratio. A diff diameter in primary , secondary and last piping is necessary if we would like to produce a specific hp and torque curve at a specific power band. It's all related. It's all needs to be working together with harmony - that's the key in producing a high and reliable power. Not many malaysian mechanic have that kind of knowledge and tools for that objective. Overseas - a lot. So if somebody says their mechanics can't produce that kind of power - than the mechanics need to learn more. Gain more knowledge. The engine, any engine has potential to improve. It's the tuners that have the limited resoucers to do so.

Some of my previous tuned engines: Power & Torque at Engine dyno.

Mitsubishi 4G93P 1.8cc - std 139hp @ 6500rpm, 163Nm @ 4500rpm
tuned 220hp @ 7800rpm, 260Nm @ 3200 - 7200 rpm

Alfa Twinspark 2.0cc - std 150hp @ 7000rpm, 180Nm @ forgot
tuned 240hp @ 7800rpm, 260Nm @ 4000++ till 7000 rpm

Note - some of the figures stated above might not really accurate coz it was more than 5 years back. I left the tuning scene for some time already. Can't really remember the exact figures, but you got the pictures. And the above engines was very reliable for daily usage. Been using them for many years before selling the cars to new buyers. And for what I knew, the engines still being use by the current owners. :top:
 
cheapest mod first:

1st poison : run the car with Ron 97.. feel the original power to it..


second.....
 
pussy;559063 said:
cheapest mod first:

1st poison : run the car with Ron 97.. feel the original power to it..


second.....

This puddycat very notti:sleep:
 
second poison:

2. run original wheels and michelin X-Green tyres, very good pick up and better milage..mine gave me 550kms on town driving..
 
thrid poison:

3. make sure tyre pressure is correct to spec : 34psi front;36psi rear
 
fourth poison.

4th. make sure engine O2 sensors are 100% working condition.. they lasts only for 100k kms.. fit originals..
 
kadir_rashid;559077 said:
Hi pussy,
When u say O2 sensors, do u mean CO2 or just O2? thanks


just the sensors at the exhaust manifold.. each about RM800 or less..:eek:
 
Fifth poison..

5th. Spark plugs must be of correct range and uses the correct gap procedure..
 
Sixth poison

6th. Air-fliter must be good condition or uses K&N filter drop in element(make sure the oil is dried up) if not, the oil will coat the MAF sensor and Fu$k the reading.
 
Seventh Poison

7th. Make sure the ignition plug coil is working fine with the suppressor is good condition. total 6 nos.
 
Eight Poison

8th. Catalytic converters must be okay and not 'sumbat' nor broken inside. replace new if needed. cars above 160k kms are usually gone.
 
Tenth Poison.

10th. make sure all fuel lines and fuel filter are new or replaced cos petrol fiters that are clogged can cause performance loss, old lines will crack and petrol can sip out.
 
Eleventh Poison

11. make sure all oils are the right spec and renew if possible. i dun believe if others say using thinner oils are good for the car, use the correct viscosity as per engine spec. use fully synthetic oils.. better detergent and high strength breakdown properties.
 
Twelveth Poison

Let Pussy keep your car for 10 days during this raya break. Guatenteed minimum 12 additional bhp after he done with it :)
 
Twelveth Poison.

12th. Now it gets interesting cos if all the 11 points are in working condition, then the performance of the car will be good. good power, better pick up, better mileage..

starting for the cheapest mod will be : change the inlet manifold of the M52 to the m50 type, better breathing due to the larger inlets as to the smaller M52 ports. instant claimed 14hps to the existing 193hp= 207hps and a from 280NM to 286NM.

remember why bmw used the small type is for the restriction of EU regulations and i believe is also not to encroach into B30 spec's..
 
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