E34 520 engine conversion

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Originally posted by ALBundy@Jul 12 2005, 11:43 AM
If use smaller manifold and air flow meter, you will get better low end torque (translated into everyday language means better pick up) but sacrifice some mid to top end power. Anyway, M20 stuff veli cheap and who knows the Puchong pimp king may have some spares in his junkyard hehehe :) :ph34r: :ph34r:
Which one is the PPK (Punchong Pimp King)? I can think of 2 that fits the bill. :D
 
he is toking bout zoggee...

me got parts....but nothin for m20 ler...hehe

anyway...aiya...lionel y ask so much...do ur engine put in and then run lah...
 
Originally posted by mafia@Jul 11 2005, 11:45 PM
he is toking bout zoggee...

me got parts....but nothin for m20 ler...hehe

anyway...aiya...lionel y ask so much...do ur engine put in and then run lah...
Chinese ppl always say "learn untill we diedmah...."
 
oi...!!!! you guys...!!! :angry: I tot the 173 is designed for E30 oni.... :) engine mapping oso different la..I think.. :( korek or not..?? :rolleyes:
 
i dont think so, my ecu #173 comes from the E34 525i, but then again so is the engine...mebe mapping is different for the E34 but uses same ecu..correct or not..
 
Looks like the DME/ECU #172 does work on a M20B25 as well. I was chatting to a mechanic and he showed me a car that did the conversion from M20B20 to B25 and using the 172 ECU without any problems.

I'm just curious does that mean the 2.5 engine is running lean since its using the 2.0 mappings with that ECU?. Any long term implications on the engine like more wear and tear, running hotter, less BHP, etc.

Anyway I believe the 172 & 173 DME circuit board is the same, the only diff is the main chip in the DME itself. If you get a 172 DME you can plug in the 173 chip and it should still work. Well theoritically anyway.... B)
 
Originally posted by ehoe@Jul 13 2005, 01:20 AM
Looks like the DME/ECU #172 does work on a M20B25 as well. I was chatting to a mechanic and he showed me a car that did the conversion from M20B20 to B25 and using the 172 ECU without any problems.

I'm just curious does that mean the 2.5 engine is running lean since its using the 2.0 mappings with that ECU?. Any long term implications on the engine like more wear and tear, running hotter, less BHP, etc.

Anyway I believe the 172 & 173 DME circuit board is the same, the only diff is the main chip in the DME itself. If you get a 172 DME you can plug in the 173 chip and it should still work. Well theoritically anyway.... B)
#172 ecu can be use but u won't get much diff after convertion....zif u really want to convert...better get the #173 ecu...others option will be put on the piggy back n convert to MAF...or put on the superchip if use back the #172 ecu....Correct me if i'm wrong... :p
 
My US version ECU on 525iA slushbox is #525 not #524. I think the #524 is the Euro version ECU. My US version rated HP is 178 hp , if I am not mistaken.

It has a cat converter. de-cat gives 183hp. (Twin straight pipe).

The Motronic V1.3 ECU adapts rather fast for this model. Just about 1 hour of aggressive driving after battery reset. gives a very responsive car....

I have heard people with 535i M30 motor takes days for adaptation to settle in. This means radical changes in the intake, cams etc.
 
Originally posted by Lionel_Koh@Apr 28 2005, 04:11 PM
My opinion is get a cheap 520,12V 89-90 around 15-25K.......seach for M50b25 halfcut and convert it.......less headache.........right zoggee ko ko? :nyehehe:

Hi Bros,
Since we're on this topic, I'd just like to ask for your feedback on what to expect after a conversion from a M2B20 to a M2B25 in terms of performance, horsepower difference etc.
Also, would appreciate any feedback on what other mods to consider following the swap.
Thanks!
 
Thanks Lionel and Zoggee for your feedback.
I was thinking that since it would be very hard to do a swap from an M20 to an M50 engine, the more feasible alternative was to do an M20 2.0 swap to a M20 2.5 for the 30+ horsepower difference.
So in fact, there's not much diff at all between a 2.0 and 2.5?
Would it work better with a Mass Air Flow Intake and bigger throttle body?
 
Originally posted by @--
Thanks Lionel and Zoggee for your feedback.
I was thinking that since it would be very hard to do a swap from an M20 to an M50 engine, the more feasible alternative was to do an M20 2.0 swap to a M20 2.5 for the 30+ horsepower difference.
So in fact, there
Its not very difficult to do a swap from M20 to M50 but it definately involves a lot more work. it uses a totally different wiring harness and electronics and obviously it will cost more since you will need to get a full half cut to do the conversion.

M20B20 to M20B25 is a very straight forward swap, just yank out the 2.0 and drop in the 2.5 and it will run. The M20's share a lot of common stuff and you can use back major items like power steering pumps, alternators, AFM, etc so it will be cheaper to convert.

If you are going from a M20B20 to B25 auto, then the 30+ bhp gain in performance will be minimal. Infact over time you'll soon feel as if the auto is still so sluggish even with a 2.5. However if you are using a manual then the diff in performance will be much more noticeable and a whole lot more fun to drive.

Of course if you can afford it do the M50 conversion lah, the extra bhp, torque and smoothness is worth it but if you are on a budget then the M20B25 manual will be a good compromise. I heard lot of forummers say the M20's are cheaper and easier to maintain too. So its your call.. just congtributing my 2 kupangs..... :D
 
Originally posted by ehoe@Jul 28 2005, 01:39 PM
<!--QuoteBegin-+---->QUOTE ( @ --)<!--QuoteEBegin--> Thanks Lionel and Zoggee for your feedback.
I was thinking that since it would be very hard to do a swap from an M20 to an M50 engine, the more feasible alternative was to do an M20 2.0 swap to a M20 2.5 for the 30+ horsepower difference.
So in fact, there

Its not very difficult to do a swap from M20 to M50 but it definately involves a lot more work. it uses a totally different wiring harness and electronics and obviously it will cost more since you will need to get a full half cut to do the conversion.

M20B20 to M20B25 is a very straight forward swap, just yank out the 2.0 and drop in the 2.5 and it will run. The M20's share a lot of common stuff and you can use back major items like power steering pumps, alternators, AFM, etc so it will be cheaper to convert.

If you are going from a M20B20 to B25 auto, then the 30+ bhp gain in performance will be minimal. Infact over time you'll soon feel as if the auto is still so sluggish even with a 2.5. However if you are using a manual then the diff in performance will be much more noticeable and a whole lot more fun to drive.

Of course if you can afford it do the M50 conversion lah, the extra bhp, torque and smoothness is worth it but if you are on a budget then the M20B25 manual will be a good compromise. I heard lot of forummers say the M20's are cheaper and easier to maintain too. So its your call.. just congtributing my 2 kupangs..... :D
[/quote]
Thanks Ehoe and Guys! Appreciate the feedback!

Seriously, i find that the M20 2.0 is really underpowered for a car the size of the E34 hence now looking at different options. In SG however, doing a swap to an M50 is kinda hard because of tight enforcement and regulations so the conversion to M50 may be too obvious.

Darn! I should have bought an E34 with a 24v! :D
 
Hi to all sifus,

It is time for me to share what I’ve learned since you all has taught me a lot. According to a friend of mine, if you were to upgrade your engine to a higher cc (and I mean E34 here) you also have to change the rear wheel gear ratio to a lower value. If you don’t, you will have a higher rpm at high speed which leads to higher fuel consumption and under power during high speed, but you’ll have good acceleration la. Not too sure whether it’s true but sounds logic. His 525 auto reads slidely more than 2000 in his rpm meter when reach 100km/h. He has his e34 m20 520 converted to m20 525 and change to a lower gear ratio at the rear wheel.

The other thing I wanna share is, to convert from M50 2.0 to 2.5, you don’t have to change the whole engine. Remain the top part, and change the lower engine block. It will be cheaper that way.

Anyway, I’m happy with my 520 but the thing is…really makan minyak…and with the increase of petrol price…wat lau eh…sometimes really cannot tahan la….thinking of a way to reduce the fuel consumption….my car is doing about 13l/100km…any suggestion?...
 
To reduce FC
- always tune AFM
- use lighter engine oil resulted lighter engine response and improved fc
- put away you spare tire
- know you sweet spot for gear change ( manual )
- check you tire pressure , lower pressure resulted poor fc
- change the tranmission oil to lighter ( redline MTL )
- don't use aircon
- drive only at night or weekend
 
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