Coincidence of problems OR is there an explanation for this?

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wuzzles

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I don't know if these 3 are related or just coincidence. I drive a '97 528i btw.a) In the last 1 weeks, the car couldn't crank due to flat battery and had to be jump started twice. I dont know when the previous owner changed the battery but I have learnt how to check the volt reading via cluster unlock. Usually between 12.3~12.5v before crank and about 14.3~14.5v when engine running. b) The transmission error symbol appeared if y'day when I used the tiptronic after a while This has happened b4 once or twice before but it didnt't go into fail safe y'day... just the error on the cluster light up. Pull to the side, restart the car and the symbol was gone.c) Since Tuesday night, the alarm of my car never fails to ring around 10pm every NIGHT!!! I will turn the alarm off, arm it... and it will ring about 10-20 secs later. This goes on for 2-3 times... and then it behave properly again till the next night 10pm. I notice this started when I learnt to unlock the cluster. BTW, I don't have the OBD etc.. but from the cluster, test 14 show me / cross referring the hex code online:
14.0 C781dd error memory - C7 Fuel tank sensor fuel pump side14.1 8d8806 error memory - 8d EGS data lead disturbed14.2 3F8800 error memory - 3F instrument cluster current to high14.3 d78100 error memory - d7 fuel tank sensor (without fuel pump)14.4 6F8800 error memory - ??
Ignoring the fuel tank sensor (which I am aware about)... is this a coincidence, a battery related problem or something even bigger?
 
Its all about the battery. Another common problem with electrical problems on these E39s are the ignition switch...check that too.
 
Gremlins at work :( Change your batt for starters, reset all fault codes and see if the other issues persist.
 
Sorry for the lack of updates and thanks for the feedback guys.... was busy monitoring the situation. However...

This morning, the engine didn't want to turn on first and second crank. I quickly checked the cluster and it showed around 10.5v (after crank). Battery was flat. While I ran around the house to find the jump start cable and reverse my dad's pickup to my boot (circa 5-6 minutes), I gave the car 1 last crank it it struggle but came alive. Once the engine was alive I drove the car to a Century Battery shop near my house. BTW, the car was not driven the whole of y'day.

He checked it using his digital instruments... We noticed when the engine, lights, radio, aircond was on, the insturement he had showes that voltage of the battery was still outside the "ok" zone. Usually it will drop below the ok and then as the alternator charges, the batter will return into the zone. However, it just went up and stopped at the 13.x v and then just stopped.

So 2 possible reasons:
1) alternator is not changing to it's optimum voltage OR
2) battery has reached it's lifespan and though the alternator is is charging, the battery can't absorb the charge...

Funnily enough, the salesman told me to get the alternator checked first. He said no point buying a new battery if the alternator can't charge it correctly. I however thought if the battery is kaput, no point having a healthy alternator. Anyway, it's not everyday a salesman will ignore a fast sale so his experience might be telling him that the alternator might be more likely.

Will search the forum and go see the mech in the next day or 2. Hopefully my car starts when I start it after work! :(

Questioin : Is the cluster showing alternator voltage OR battery voltge. Confused as it usually show 14.4~14.5ish when the car is started BUT the sales man instrument was showing below. But at the same time, when the car is offed, I still can get a reading from the cluster (which makes me think it is coming from the battery) - will have to google this up more...
 
When was the last time the battery was changed? If aledi > 2 years, then it's time... Some can last longer some only 1 year (just after warranty) but anything after 2 years is bonus.
 
Mine had quite similar symptoms 2 years ago.

Car cant start intermittently but when checked wleverything seemed ok. After a few times stranded on the roadside finally the alternator gave out.

Apparently the alternator was on its last legs but weren't ready to bite the dust yet.
 
fabianyee;746739 said:
When was the last time the battery was changed? If aledi > 2 years, then it's time... Some can last longer some only 1 year (just after warranty) but anything after 2 years is bonus.

Hi Fabian, I just got the car since Feb'12. I don't have any records when the battery was bought though...
 
Sorry to hear about your issues. Since it is between a battery and an alternator I would opt to get the battery change first. Why because I guess it costs lower than the alternator and if the problem still persist u can easily sell back the battery and buy the alternator. I know it's not the best solution but I think in this situation it's the better option. I read somewhere in this forum that always try fix with cheapest solution first if we have no idea what the real culprit is.

Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk
 
huskar3399;746787 said:
Sorry to hear about your issues. Since it is between a battery and an alternator I would opt to get the battery change first. Why because I guess it costs lower than the alternator and if the problem still persist u can easily sell back the battery and buy the alternator. I know it's not the best solution but I think in this situation it's the better option. I read somewhere in this forum that always try fix with cheapest solution first if we have no idea what the real culprit is.

Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk

True... but before I decide to 'change' anything in the dark, I want to make sure that I check the alternator / ignition switch is not the culprit. I want to avoid buying a battery, temporary mask the symptoms, think it is solved and 1 month later, it comes back. If the mech says the alternator / ignition switch is in good health or non conclusive where the problem could be, then trying to change the battery would be my first option too.
 
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