I found this from International Forum which I thought would be helpful to some members. No credits to me, but purely information sake. Tee----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------E39 Hints and Tips � beats reading the hand book!Turn on your ignition (without starting the car) for 10 seconds, turn it off, leave for 10 seconds and then start the car - you will have reset and recalibrated your accelerator pedal to take up any slack or sluggishness - most folks who have done this have reported a marked increase in response to a call for more coal in the boiler.Clip which folds out to support the boot floor whilst you remove the spare wheel - makes life a little easier when you�re feeling down after a flat.There is a hook on the left in the boot for hanging carrier bags - useful for that quick Tesco trip, when your shopping, just MUSTN'T fall over!! The hook is also a clamp. You can either clamp stuff in it or hang things over it. Very useful.If you have your electric mirror control switch set to the drivers side mirror, when reversing the passenger side mirror dips to the curb. Good for making sure those beautiful wheels stay unblemished! If you don't want it on (e.g. you aren't parking just reversing), you just slide the switch over to the passenger mirror.Here's another one - assuming you have the full climate control - once you have stopped and switched off - push the "max" (�REST�) button - the heater kicks in to pull the remaining heat from the engine block. It needs a few conditions to work: 1. External temp 75 C (at least - that's the temp it starts working in the E60, where I have a digital temp gauge!) 3. Car off for not more than ~10 mins or key in pos 2. In pos 2 you also get temperature and fan controls working; with car completely off the fan is at mid-speed and the temp is set at whatever it was when you switched off This will keep her warm - while YOU are in the supermarket!Follow-me home lights work by flashing headlights, key out and door openA long press on the interior lights button switches all lights off permanently, until you repeat the process. This is useful when cleaning the car out, to stop the battery going flat with all those lights on.... Took 4 1/2 years to discover this!How to get to the OBC codes: There are two buttons on the instrument panel. The button to the lower left of the speedometer is the reset button for the trip odometer, which I'll call the Reset or R button. The button to the lower right of the tachometer is the check control key, which I'll call the Check or C button. If you don't have both of these buttons and the check control indicator on your instrument panel, this isn't likely to work. The first step is to have the key turned to position 1 or 2 without staring the engine. Now hold in the Check button. The check control indicator will read "CHECK CONTROL OK". Keep holding the button. After a few seconds the indicator will go blank, and after a few seconds more the indicator will display "TEST-NR. 01". Now release the Check button. At this point you can press the Check button briefly to cycle through each available test, or hold it in for a few seconds to exit the test mode. In each test, you can press the Reset button to cycle through any displays that might be available in the current test (however, some tests use the Reset button to CHANGE the current value, which could be very bad? read the rest of this page before using the Reset button!). Here's what comes up for test 01. The first line is the initial display, and each subsequent line is displayed for each press of the Reset button. These displays are usually centred in the check indicator, but I won't attempt to imitate that here. I've added comments to explain the displays I think I understand. TEST-NR. 01 FGSTNR: GM615xx (VIN serial number, censored) K: 7744 BMWTNR: 8387061 CI:12 DI:06 BI:09 DAT: 43/98 (week and year of manufacture) HW:04 SW:1100/1100 ZYL:08 M:4 S:4095 (cylinders, and what else?) CAN:02 AEND:14 There's a lot of information here. You'll notice here that the OBC's native language is German?"cylinder" is represented by ZYL because that's the abbreviation for the German word "Zylinder". You'll see other examples below of German words and metric units appearing in these OBC displays, regardless of what language the OBC usually uses to communicate with you. At first, tests 01 and 02 are the only test you'll be able to access. The rest of the tests are normally locked. Test 02 is simple: TEST-NR. 02 (Instrument test) This test works only when the key is in position 1, NOT when the car is running. Press Reset and all of the gauges and lamps in the instrument cluster come to life. All the lamps except for the warning indicators (such as overheating and low oil) come on. I presume the "idiot lights" are connected directly to their respective sensors so they still work even if the OBC dies. The speedometer and tachometer move on their own from one extreme to the other, so if you want to get a picture of your speedometer reading 155 without leaving the garage, this is the way to do it. (This is not how I made my autobahn video, though. TEST-NR. 06 TNK: 7.5/31.0/38.5L (current fuel levels: left, right, total) TNKANZ: 39.4L PHASE1 (average total fuel level) This test relates to the fuel tank. I left the numbers in to assist with the explanation, but you'll get different numbers. The first two numbers seem to be independent fuel-level measurements; the third is the sum of the first two. My car has some kind of "reserve" gas tank with a rated capacity of "approximately 10 liters", so maybe the first number is the reserve tank. The first two readings bounce around a lot when the car is moving, suggesting that the fuel-level sensors respond fast enough to show the fuel sloshing around in the tank. The first value also starts out higher than it ought to be and declines over the first ten minutes of operation to a stable value. The second number starts out low and increases, while the third number remains relatively stable but still moves around. For example, on my first trip after making these measurements, the TNK values started out at 19.6/19.7/39.3 and declined to 6.9/31.2/38.1 within a few minutes. I assume the dashboard fuel gauge ignores the first value as long as there's fuel left in the main tank, since it seems fairly consistent from one trip to the next. I've had trouble with my OBC being overoptimistic about its driving range estimates right after the car is started when the tank is near empty, though, and I think this shows why. The German word Anzahl means "quantity". The TNKANZ value seems to indicate the average fuel level over some period. And what does PHASE1 mean? TEST-NR. 07 KTMP: xxx?C (engine core temperature) N: xxxxx U/MIN (engine RPM) ATMP: +xx.0?C (ambient temperature) It was 65?F when I took these readings (about 18?C) and the core temperature stabilized at about 108?C, which seems about right. My car idles at about 500 RPM, a value which is difficult to read precisely from the tachometer. TEST-NR. 08 V: xxx KM/H (current velocity) TEST-NR. 09 VB: xx.x V (battery voltage) Tests 08 and 09 have just one display each, and both are somewhat useful. My battery voltage, idling in the garage, was around 13.5 V. TEST-NR. 10 LAND: 02 US (country of sale?) TEST-NR. 11 EINHEIT 1: F7 EINHEIT 2: FA EINHEIT 3: 4A Einheit means "unit". Units 1 through 3, then, and each seems to have a hexadecimal (base-16) number associated with it. Intriguing, eh? It gets better later on. TEST-NR. 12 VANK: xxx.x KM/H ANK: --:-- On my car, VANK was 077.6 KM/H. Could ANK be from the German word Ankunftszeit for "time of arrival"? That would explain why it was blank, since I didn't have a destination programmed when I read out these values. In this case, VANK could be average speed for the purpose of calculating time of arrival, left over from the last trip. TEST-NR. 13 GONG? This one is the audio equivalent of Test 02. Instead of testing the lights, it tests the sounds. You'll hear, in order, the tones for the Memo, Outdoor Temperature Alert, Limit/Code, and Check Control chimes. TEST-NR. 14 DIAG: 1 C7 81 000 DIAG: 2 00 00 000 DIAG: 3 00 00 000 DIAG: 4 00 00 000 DIAG: 5 00 00 000 These would presumably change if your car has accumulated diagnostic codes for some failure. I don't know what C7 81 means; I've seen my car do the occasional strange thing, but nothing bad has happened. At least as far as I know. Now, here we get into the most intriguing test: TEST-NR. 15 PORT A00: xxxxxxxx PORT A01: 00000111 PORT A02: xx0x0001 PORT A03: 00000011 PORT A04: 000x0101 PORT A05: 001B1111 PORT A06: 00110101 PORT B00: xxxxxxxx PORT B01: 00100010 PORT B02: xx0x0110 PORT B03: x0111001 PORT B04: 000x1111 PORT B05: 11100111 PORT B06: 00000000 Here we have some cool stuff. These appear to be register values from some type of microprocessor, displayed in binary. The 0's and 1's showed here were stable when I read out these values; the x's were toggling between 0 and 1. I didn't take any time to try to figure out what these bits mean, with one exception: Notice the "B" in register A05?I discovered that this bit is connected to the button on the turn-signal stalk that controls the on-board computer (OBC) displays that normally appear in the check control indicator. Normally this bit is 0; press the OBC stalk button and it goes to 1. TEST-NR. 16 OELTEMP: -48?C This means "oil temp," but I'm pretty sure the oil was a lot warmer. In fact, I'm pretty sure there isn't anything on my car that can be this cold. So it's a mystery. TEST-NR. 17 RCC-EMPF.: ----MIN I have no idea what this means. TEST-NR. 18 (No response to Reset on this test.) TEST-NR. 19 LOCK: OFF (press Reset to turn the lock back on) TEST-NR. 20 KVBR: 1000 This "test" is actually a way to adjust the OBC's fuel consumption factor. There's a sensor in the fuel injector system that indicates fuel consumption back to the OBC. This "KVBR" value is used to calibrate that sensor using the following process: 1. Reset one of the OBC mileage indicators and the trip odometer, and fill your tank. 2. Record the actual fuel consumption for your car over a long period (one to two months at least). 3. Divide this reading into the trip odometer value to calculate your actual mileage. 4. Divide this result by the OBC indicated mileage over the same period and multiply by 1000. You now have your fuel consumption factor. To enter the factor into the OBC, get into Test 20 and press Reset. This will start the KVBR value counting down. It will count down to 750, then start over at 1250. A crude user interface to be sure, but it works. You probably don't need to change the KVBR value; the default value of 1000 should be accurate. And if your calculated fuel consumption factor is outside the 750/1250 range, there's probably something wrong. TEST-NR. 21 RESET? Be careful here too? I didn't try the Reset button on this one, because I assume it resets the whole OBC. This could be a very bad thing. You can adjust the dipped beams by flipping the levers on top to get rid of the left hand 'kick up' beam pattern, so that when you go to France. Both to the middle for UK, both outermost for Euro driving.For all you touring drivers out there, what about, to change the intermittent timing of the rear wiper, quickly turn the rear wiper on then off, wait the required time between swipes then turn on again. It will then use this wipe timing until turned off again. First time I've had that on a car, And if its on intermittent wipe when you select reverse it goes into a continuous wipe mode until you have finished reversing.The 'Vent On' during the summer months. Switch the engine off but only turn the key to position I - don't take it fully out. Then press the clock button on the computer twice and the words 'Vent On' will appear in the display. Press it on and the fan will start and a small red light will appear. You can now remove the key and the car will continue to ventilate for about 20 minutes after you have left it.
Things you don't know about BMW E39
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subsonique
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fuhhh! thank you for sharing!
tee;813487 said:
actually what you need to do is, switch off engine and take keys out. then just flick the light stalk and the headlights will be on. then u go out and lock car and walk off. lights should be on for about 15 secs or so.
