BMW Specialist - Electrical (E34)

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lance

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Hi guys,I've tried searching around the forums for any recommended workshop for electrical issues. Not easy to locate ... still looking around.If you have one to recommend ... really appreciate if you could list them here with contact info.Thanx!My '89 E34 M20B20 got a problem with it's main fuse (fusible link, near the battery); changed the fuse box recently, but after a couple of weeks, noticed that the plastic and the 80A fuse has started to melt! It seems to generate excessive heat ... not sure why ...
 
Sorry guys .. I'm from Puchong - i think any workshop within Klang Valley should be ok ... thanx!
 
lance;433034 said:
Hi guys,

I've tried searching around the forums for any recommended workshop for electrical issues. Not easy to locate ... still looking around.

If you have one to recommend ... really appreciate if you could list them here with contact info.
Thanx!

My '89 E34 M20B20 got a problem with it's main fuse (fusible link, near the battery); changed the fuse box recently, but after a couple of weeks, noticed that the plastic and the 80A fuse has started to melt! It seems to generate excessive heat ... not sure why ...

bro, the only reason why plastic melts is because:-

1. when the current used by the equipment exceed the normal running current.
2. When the terminals at the connection are not tight.

check item 1 with a DC current clamp meter and check the running current. it should not exceed 10 amp under normal usage.

check item2 for loose connection. it is most probably the case of your problem since you change the fuse box recently.
 
jarance;433050 said:
bro, the only reason why plastic melts is because:-

1. when the current used by the equipment exceed the normal running current.
2. When the terminals at the connection are not tight.

check item 1 with a DC current clamp meter and check the running current. it should not exceed 10 amp under normal usage.

check item2 for loose connection. it is most probably the case of your problem since you change the fuse box recently.

These are very valuable tips sir ... really appreciate it!

I actually got a Multimeter last week to test ... will do so accordingly ...

Actually, after getting the new fusible link box from First Division, I got M-Speed (USJ) to install it ... problem is ... they used the old bolts instead of replacing them ... hence, when I discovered the melted parts ... I'm unable to tighten the blot as well, after.

Thanx again.

*** EDITED ***

Btw, can I do test #1 using a multimeter? Sorry ... not too technically inclined ...
 
lance;433055 said:
These are very valuable tips sir ... really appreciate it!

I actually got a Multimeter last week to test ... will do so accordingly ...

Actually, after getting the new fusible link box from First Division, I got M-Speed (USJ) to install it ... problem is ... they used the old bolts instead of replacing them ... hence, when I discovered the melted parts ... I'm unable to tighten the blot as well, after.

Thanx again.

*** EDITED ***

Btw, can I do test #1 using a multimeter? Sorry ... not too technically inclined ...

if you have a Multitester, you can measure the Voltage and the current but...

Most multimeter can measure up to 20 Amp. In order to measure the current, you have to disconnect one of the battery terminal and connect your multimeter in SERIES with your battery. This will check your idle condition when your car is STOP.

Note: DO NOT START THE CAR. You will blown your multimeter if you do coz the starting current of the starter is about 200+ Amp.

As mentioned, you have a bolt that cannot be tighten. Better to replace the bolt.

LOOSE COONECTION CAUSE LOCALISE HEATING.
 
jarance;433092 said:
if you have a Multitester, you can measure the Voltage and the current but...

Most multimeter can measure up to 20 Amp. In order to measure the current, you have to disconnect one of the battery terminal and connect your multimeter in SERIES with your battery. This will check your idle condition when your car is STOP.

Note: DO NOT START THE CAR. You will blown your multimeter if you do coz the starting current of the starter is about 200+ Amp.

As mentioned, you have a bolt that cannot be tighten. Better to replace the bolt.

LOOSE COONECTION CAUSE LOCALISE HEATING.

Much thanx!
 
Hi everybody,

I contacted Kem from First Division (where I got my new Fusible Link Box) and after hearing about my problem and symptoms ... he thinks it's got to do with bad electrical contact, especially since M-Speed (USJ) used back the rusty bolts and didn't clean the connections when they replaced the box.

Kem asked me to go to FD Jaya Motor & Services S/B and look for Mr. Oi. So, I went last evening and the very nice & friendly Mr. Oi helped me clean up the contacts and replaced the bolts! After we connect back everything, i started the car and switched on EVERYTHING ... we monitored the cable & contact temperature ... but even after 5 mins ... still ok ... i can even touch the bolt and fuse directly! Even after I drove all the way home, it's still ok when I check it!
 
Glad to hear that you manage to resolve your localize heating issue.

For car older than 7 years, it is also advisable to clean all the EARTH connection for better engine and ICE performance.

Some people put new jumper lead but the cheaper way is to clean the surface contact and apply copper grease on the surface. Ensure all electrical connection are tight.
 
jarance;433499 said:
Glad to hear that you manage to resolve your localize heating issue.

For car older than 7 years, it is also advisable to clean all the EARTH connection for better engine and ICE performance.

Some people put new jumper lead but the cheaper way is to clean the surface contact and apply copper grease on the surface. Ensure all electrical connection are tight.

Jarance, yes, I am very happy now. Albeit, need to monitor for a couple of weeks as advised by Mr. Oi (salute).

Was thinking about a good Grounding + Voltage Stabilizer set (RM400+).
 
lance;433580 said:
Jarance, yes, I am very happy now. Albeit, need to monitor for a couple of weeks as advised by Mr. Oi (salute).

Was thinking about a good Grounding + Voltage Stabilizer set (RM400+).

forget about VS.. Just clean the grounding surface contact and apply cooper grease.
 
lance;433463 said:
Kem asked me to go to FD Jaya Motor & Services S/B and look for Mr. Oi. So, I went last evening and the very nice & friendly Mr. Oi helped me clean up the contacts and replaced the bolts! After we connect back everything, i started the car and switched on EVERYTHING ... we monitored the cable & contact temperature ... but even after 5 mins ... still ok ... i can even touch the bolt and fuse directly! Even after I drove all the way home, it's still ok when I check it!

Lance, where is this FD Jaya Motor & Services S/B?
 
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