BMW E60 520i Transmission Jerk
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dzuljazz2001
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CannyCool;590890 said:
greetings bro, not necassarily ...but maybe you should go and have the oil changed. There are earlier threads to address this issue and lots of feedback given. Just browse around and you will sure find it ...:top:
dzuljazz2001
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CannyCool;590890 said:
not necassarily bro ... maybe you should go and have the oil changed. There are earlier threads to address this issue and lots of feedback given. Just browse around and you will sure to find it ...:top:
dzuljazz2001
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CannyCool;590926 said:
the mechanics will advise you on that
Peter Sauber
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CannyCool;590926 said:
It is standard procedure and also recomended to change the filter too. Reason being debris got stuck in the filter and when you change new oil the new oil is likely be 'contaminated' by the debris in the filter.
So better change it.
Are you the window tinting cannycool?
WTA2525
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Bro cslau,
Recently, i changed my gearbox oil and filter. Then I found out my gearbox shift pattern not so smooth especially when I'm slowing down my car and it start jerking at gear 2 to gear 1.....should i do the resetting gearbox adaptive memory? Need your advice since i'm newbie in this forum.....
Recently, i changed my gearbox oil and filter. Then I found out my gearbox shift pattern not so smooth especially when I'm slowing down my car and it start jerking at gear 2 to gear 1.....should i do the resetting gearbox adaptive memory? Need your advice since i'm newbie in this forum.....
cslau;594457 said:any special discount for members here canny
remember to reset gearbox adaptive memory after changing the ATF oil
WTA2525
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Hi bro,
You are right!!! Just send back my car and ask them to do the resetting. Guess what?!! After resetting no jerk and the car running smooth. I wonder if they are really bmw experts as they claimed. It was so funny when I asked them to do the resetting, they seems like so confused especially the mechanic that handle my car. By the way, thanks bro for the advice...
You are right!!! Just send back my car and ask them to do the resetting. Guess what?!! After resetting no jerk and the car running smooth. I wonder if they are really bmw experts as they claimed. It was so funny when I asked them to do the resetting, they seems like so confused especially the mechanic that handle my car. By the way, thanks bro for the advice...
cslau;609686 said:
another thing about the car is the water level will go down after 7-8 days without driving or starting the engine, why ah?
also, sometimes I got the warning message stating engine default, pls drive moderately, after it has gone..why ah? shall I really send for checking..
also, sometimes I got the warning message stating engine default, pls drive moderately, after it has gone..why ah? shall I really send for checking..
Anthony5785
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Gentlements,
I have several point to raise up.
1 - Resetting:-
Resetting is just tell your car that, this car had been services and everything back to normal setting (clear history). The actual problem is still not yet resolve.
Example: For 520i - You will feel a double jerk when you press the break at the traffic light or etc. This symptom is a norm for 520i as it is trigger by ABS and the only way to remove it is by resetting (logic). Normally the mechanic will not do it for you and quote with all the cinderella story, they would normally reset it when after changing the ATF oil only or some even after servicing. However, it would come back after a while when ? try to tab your break tripple time during your breaking...then you shall know.
2- ATF oil
The very first symptom which will trigger your attention is the mild vibration (Pls do not use the words jerk as it would not lead you to the actual problem) after you ignite your car. One of the common solution is to change the ATF oil, and i would only touch on this topic ATF oil.
If you change your ATF oil, i would strongly recommend to change the the gasket. During or after the mechanic remove the oil pan, please inspect the oil pan your self. You may see the amount of oil compilation and the wear and tear of the gasket. Normal practice, you should change the gasket but not the oil pan unless you identify mild crak and wear and tear symptom.
As for the oil pan, i would strongly recommend to use back the OEM part but not the Taiwan version. No regards how much credits given to the taiwan replica still cannot compare to the OEM.
FYI -As for the gasket, for those who are a mechanical engineer they will know this. There are method to close back the gasket and majority of the mechanic just simply close it together with the oil pan and cause damage to the gasket. You might not able to identify it so easily unless you go down inside to inspect it ur self. Just be caution and good luck.
Remember, you only need to use 6 bottle of ATF oil for 520i, why ? no regard how much they drain out the oil, there are still some percentage of oil inside. 7 bottle is consider completely dry out which is not possible at all.
Thanks for reading this lenghty reply hehe.....please take note, 520i is not quoted as sluggish or under power (determine by the car condition.), you just need to understand it especially on the timing and when the power delivers. If you are looking for those car which can deliver G force to you, then you better change you car as 520i cannot do it with the "D", "DS" and manual, it have to combine and also depend on situation. Any way, i still love my car as i would not be boring by only playing with one mode.
I have several point to raise up.
1 - Resetting:-
Resetting is just tell your car that, this car had been services and everything back to normal setting (clear history). The actual problem is still not yet resolve.
Example: For 520i - You will feel a double jerk when you press the break at the traffic light or etc. This symptom is a norm for 520i as it is trigger by ABS and the only way to remove it is by resetting (logic). Normally the mechanic will not do it for you and quote with all the cinderella story, they would normally reset it when after changing the ATF oil only or some even after servicing. However, it would come back after a while when ? try to tab your break tripple time during your breaking...then you shall know.
2- ATF oil
The very first symptom which will trigger your attention is the mild vibration (Pls do not use the words jerk as it would not lead you to the actual problem) after you ignite your car. One of the common solution is to change the ATF oil, and i would only touch on this topic ATF oil.
If you change your ATF oil, i would strongly recommend to change the the gasket. During or after the mechanic remove the oil pan, please inspect the oil pan your self. You may see the amount of oil compilation and the wear and tear of the gasket. Normal practice, you should change the gasket but not the oil pan unless you identify mild crak and wear and tear symptom.
As for the oil pan, i would strongly recommend to use back the OEM part but not the Taiwan version. No regards how much credits given to the taiwan replica still cannot compare to the OEM.
FYI -As for the gasket, for those who are a mechanical engineer they will know this. There are method to close back the gasket and majority of the mechanic just simply close it together with the oil pan and cause damage to the gasket. You might not able to identify it so easily unless you go down inside to inspect it ur self. Just be caution and good luck.
Remember, you only need to use 6 bottle of ATF oil for 520i, why ? no regard how much they drain out the oil, there are still some percentage of oil inside. 7 bottle is consider completely dry out which is not possible at all.
Thanks for reading this lenghty reply hehe.....please take note, 520i is not quoted as sluggish or under power (determine by the car condition.), you just need to understand it especially on the timing and when the power delivers. If you are looking for those car which can deliver G force to you, then you better change you car as 520i cannot do it with the "D", "DS" and manual, it have to combine and also depend on situation. Any way, i still love my car as i would not be boring by only playing with one mode.
desbimmer
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great write up there Anthony! I felt that problems started to rise even more after i changed my ATF fluid. And yes, I think most mech will change the gasket as well as my mech said it was a must. I took the problems that arose with my changing of the ATF fluid as a good one actually as i believe that proper maintenance is key as well. i noticed the uneven gear shift even more prominently as well especially going downhill and I did the first few steps of resetting, changing the negative cable as well keeping my fingers crossed the whole time. But alas....
I got fed up and changed the valve body a few days back and am really happy I did so. i don't recommend anyone changing their valve body unless your mech has determined it to be the most likely culprit ya. As for me, I felt noticeable power gain and my wife also said it was much smoother (especially when I drive like a nut on the road). Guess what happened next?! The Engine Light came on the next day and refused to leave when I started the car. I came back and read up on possible scenarios on the forum and I was waiting for the mech to tell me something within the lines of ingnition coil, spark plug... BUT he plugged it in and it said something in the lines of 'Mixture issue'.
The boss (my mech) was damn spot on when he took it for a drive last weekend before i changed my valve body and he said my petrol smelled funny. Don't ask me how or why he was smelling it but he drove my car hard to test it out to find the problem prior to the recommendation to change the valve body. He asked me to use Caltex when I said I used Shell. So today he cleared the fault code for me and after I changed to Caltex, the light came on and off as it should when I start the car.... So today onwards...I am a Caltex user....ekekeke.
I got fed up and changed the valve body a few days back and am really happy I did so. i don't recommend anyone changing their valve body unless your mech has determined it to be the most likely culprit ya. As for me, I felt noticeable power gain and my wife also said it was much smoother (especially when I drive like a nut on the road). Guess what happened next?! The Engine Light came on the next day and refused to leave when I started the car. I came back and read up on possible scenarios on the forum and I was waiting for the mech to tell me something within the lines of ingnition coil, spark plug... BUT he plugged it in and it said something in the lines of 'Mixture issue'.
The boss (my mech) was damn spot on when he took it for a drive last weekend before i changed my valve body and he said my petrol smelled funny. Don't ask me how or why he was smelling it but he drove my car hard to test it out to find the problem prior to the recommendation to change the valve body. He asked me to use Caltex when I said I used Shell. So today he cleared the fault code for me and after I changed to Caltex, the light came on and off as it should when I start the car.... So today onwards...I am a Caltex user....ekekeke.
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