The amps means the load the battery can supply. Usages is base on electrical draw. Say the headlight is drawing 55w, using the
Ohm's Law, V=IR, V is voltage, I is "arus" measured by amps and R is resistance or load measured by watts.
So 12v=I(55w), therefore I=12/55 = 0.2181 amps for a single bulb, so keep adding la for your other electrical usage until u hit the maximum load of the battery rating. Additional draw after that will show weaknesses to supplies, thus your headlight brightness will reduce.
For the E90 OEM battery, DIN 100L which is rated at least 90AH (Ampere/Hour) is very high, double of a Kancil N40 battery.
What you need to worry is the alternator rating. Imagine using a 90AH battery in a car with 40AH alternator.. it takes forever the charge the battery and will kill the alternator fast because it never cuts out, constant working not stop. On the other hand, using a 40AH battery in a car with 90AH alternator. That will heat up the battery fast and will boil the battery fluid, thus resulting in vaporisation of battery fluid, lost of fluid and the acid vapor can cause rust to the surrounding metals if poorly ventilated.
That's why ICE enthusiasts upgrade battery to support the additional AV equipments, then will soon realise alternator kaput. After which they must upgrade to a bigger alternator or else, they will have to keep replacing alternators..
Back to the starter issue. If the starter is 300w, then it will just draw 300w despite having a 3,000w battery. But if the battery can't cope with 300w, then only you will experience slowness in the crank, and that too will load and heat up the battery, fluid loss as well as a result.
Oh yes, correct me if I'm wrong..