Please help E36 318 overheating

[SS626A]

Maybe this an old topic, but I really appreciate Sifu & members enlighten me on these problems. Last night, I noticed that my air-con not cool enough, after 15mins. The temp gauge showing my temp shoot up until red line and then my car warning light on & tripped my car. I open my bonnet. I noticed that steam came out from my radiator cap. There's no sign of visible leakage at anywhere except radiator cap. I released the air from the screw next to the radiator cap and then let’s it cool down and fill in water... I started the engine drive back in 5mins. But my temp gauge showing my temp between the middle and the blue zone (that means my engine still cool in 5min driving?) When I reached my home, I putted my engine at idle & air-con on for another 5min. My temp gauge maintains showing my temp between the middle and the blue zone. Anyway, I can felt my air-con work in smoothly. No sign of water leakage from any hose also. This morning, I open my radiator cap and the screw next to the radiator cap and fill in water again. The water still maintain at full level. No sign of water in the engine oil sump (no milk color in my engine oil). No oil inside my radiator also. No air bubbles coming out from the radiator when the radiator cap is off. (Check for air bubbles when the engine is cold and running.) But my electrical fan still off after I ran my engine for 10min at idle mode. My temp gauge showing my temp between the middle and the blue zone just like last night. My engine is shaking & maintain at 500rpm (my normal idle rpm is about 1000rpm). I can feel my engine; water inlet & outlet hose are hot.1.What are the problems on my UDM? 2.Why my temp gauge can’t return back to normal (which is at half mark)? I suspect thermostats fail they designed to fail open so car will run cold? 3.Also leaky head gasket will do the same? But I don’t see any oil in my radiator. Btw, no water contaminant my engine oil also. Please enlighten me on these problems!!!

 

[ICEMAN 68]

could be due to your fan ( if electrical fan is not running ) intermittent case ...

well some parts will take time to trigger .... if gasket ...for M43 could be the reason .....

 

[ICEMAN 68]

could be due to your fan ( if electrical fan is not running ) intermittent case ...

well some parts will take time to trigger .... if gasket ...for M43 could be the reason .....

 

[SS626A]

I have diagnosed the problem again last night as follows:

a) Water pump checked. I can see the water return from engine to radiator. water level maintain full also. radiator just changed last year.

b) When I idle started my engine about 10mins I can feel the engine,
radiator inlet & outlet hose hot. Temp gauge showing in middle also.

c) My fan still off. However I test my engine in 10mins time with my air-con on.

d) I can feel my air-con no cool air come out. Just like no gas.

e) Every time I on my air-con pump at my air-con control panel. I can feel the abnormal sound from my air-con pump.

f) I worry my air-con pump jammed.

g) I suspect my overheating problem. Due to my engine over load(air-con pump jammed)

Any command from Sifu & members?

Water return from engine to radiator

Temp gauge in normal condition (middle)

Fan not start during 10mins test

No water contaminant in engine oil

No water contaminant in top engine

 

[ICEMAN 68]

bro could be the motor fan blower connector ... the connection tends to be loose and may cause intermittent current to flow .......

 

[SS626A]

bro could be the motor fan blower connector ... the connection tends to be loose and may cause intermittent current to flow .......

I have checked the fuis of my fan-ok. I will check my fan connector tonight.
How many fan in 318? I think I have one 1 fan in my engine bay & no aux fan behind my bumper.

 

[ICEMAN 68]

dude .... based on your picture of the coolant used, i think it's the normal type of coolant right ( The Green coloured type ) ?

If yes , could be your water pump impeller rotor corroded ( if using a metal impellar) or plastic impeller broken ( if using the plastic type ) ..see what happens is that by using such type of coolant ( the green coloured-- non BMW type ) the impeller rotor ( metal type ) tends to get corroded fast and eventually will cause the rotation of the impeller not smooth or at times stuck happen .....

so based on what you mentioned that now it seems OK, yes ...cuz the rotation of the impeller is somehow depends on the pulley and also the movement flow from all water channels

therefore if this time you face the same problem , just get down and look at the water pump pulley .... is there any movement ( you may be able to see it as the belt will just keep on sliding on the pulley and the water pump pulley will not move ....

Just to let you know that , it's better to use a metal impellar water pump with good coolant ...etc BMW coolant or the redline water wetter .... it's got some oil substance to avoid corrosion ....

 

[ICEMAN 68]

dude .... based on your picture of the coolant used, i think it's the normal type of coolant right ( The Green coloured type ) ?

If yes , could be your water pump impeller rotor corroded ( if using a metal impellar) or plastic impeller broken ( if using the plastic type ) ..see what happens is that by using such type of coolant ( the green coloured-- non BMW type ) the impeller rotor ( metal type ) tends to get corroded fast and eventually will cause the rotation of the impeller not smooth or at times stuck happen .....

so based on what you mentioned that now it seems OK, yes ...cuz the rotation of the impeller is somehow depends on the pulley and also the movement flow from all water channels

therefore if this time you face the same problem , just get down and look at the water pump pulley .... is there any movement ( you may be able to see it as the belt will just keep on sliding on the pulley and the water pump pulley will not move ....

Just to let you know that , it's better to use a metal impellar water pump with good coolant ...etc BMW coolant or the redline water wetter .... it's got some oil substance to avoid corrosion ....

 

[crusader360]

bro it happen to me with engine overheat and found out that the aircon heater pipe valve is open and circulate the water to the blower coil. and water temperature rise and stop after overheating. Just to make sure this doesnt happen to you.

 

[SS626A]

bro it happen to me with engine overheat and found out that the aircon heater pipe valve is open and circulate the water to the blower coil. and water temperature rise and stop after overheating. Just to make sure this doesnt happen to you.

Tq crusader, where is the aircon heater pipe valve? Maybe I need to check it.

 

[SS626A]

dude .... based on your picture of the coolant used, i think it's the normal type of coolant right ( The Green coloured type ) ?

If yes , could be your water pump impeller rotor corroded ( if using a metal impellar) or plastic impeller broken ( if using the plastic type ) ..see what happens is that by using such type of coolant ( the green coloured-- non BMW type ) the impeller rotor ( metal type ) tends to get corroded fast and eventually will cause the rotation of the impeller not smooth or at times stuck happen .....

so based on what you mentioned that now it seems OK, yes ...cuz the rotation of the impeller is somehow depends on the pulley and also the movement flow from all water channels

therefore if this time you face the same problem , just get down and look at the water pump pulley .... is there any movement ( you may be able to see it as the belt will just keep on sliding on the pulley and the water pump pulley will not move ....

Just to let you know that , it's better to use a metal impellar water pump with good coolant ...etc BMW coolant or the redline water wetter .... it's got some oil substance to avoid corrosion ....

OK. I will replace the ori coolant. This green coolant use by ex-owner. Btw, I will check my water pump pulley also.

What is the reason my fan doesn't work again?

 

[ICEMAN 68]

OK. I will replace the ori coolant. This green coolant use by ex-owner. Btw, I will check my water pump pulley also.

What is the reason my fan doesn't work again?

--->>>> which fan dude ?

 

[SS626A]

Last night I have checked my fan inside my engine again. I found that my fan’s socket not work in properly. I will change it today. Hopefully, this the problem cause my UDM overheat.
Btw, where is the air-con heater pipe valve mention by our member crusader?
Weird!!! My UMD has no any aux fan which behind my bumper or in front of my radiator!! That’s mean has one electrical fan in my M42 engine bay only.
I found one socket is hanging beside my radiator as picture show as follows. What is the purpose for that particular socket?

What socket of this?

No aux fan infront of my radiator!!

engine bay fan socket

engine bay fan socket should be changed

 

[ICEMAN 68]

most of the 96 and above does not have aux fan ahead of the radiator ...that's what i know .... ehhh where is your ATF cooler tank ... that should be right ahead of your radiator ...

 

[SS626A]

most of the 96 and above does not have aux fan ahead of the radiator ...that's what i know .... ehhh where is your ATF cooler tank ... that should be right ahead of your radiator ...

where is your ATF cooler tank? U mean my gearbox cooler radiator? I think my 318 missing out something!!

 

[Grand]

I had a rather similar problem previously. It started of as no cool ar coming out. Then the car will overheat if stuck in a jam. Sent the car to air cond specialist and found out that the aux fan in front of the radiator not automatically switch on, that's why no cool air. After much checking and inspection, can't get it to switch on as it should be.

The above scenario is dangerous especially when you are stuck in a jam as when the aux fan is not turn on, your engine would risk overheating as the fan is not on to cool your radiator. May not be a problem when your car is cruising as the incoming air from the front grille will be able to do the job of cooling your radiator.

What I do now when stuck in a jam and when you sense that hot air is blowing out from your vent (that means the aux fan is not on), is just to step on your accelerator (of course by first switching to N gear or by stepping on the brake with another foot). I found that once you rev the engine a bit, somehow or rather, it has the effect of switching on the aux fan. Cool air will then come out. Your radiator will get its much deserved air and ventilation. No more overheating issue.

So when I go up Genting, I will still switch on the air cond. Otherwise, with the air cond off, the aux fan may not operate and overheating of your engine would be a real risk. :smokin:

 

[Hellraiser]

bro, assuming its a aux fan problem. i've modified my fan to have it running all the time.

 

[crusader360]

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m386/CRUSADER360/heaterradiator1copy.jpg


pLEASE CHECK ITEM 11 WHAT I MEANT

 

[SS626A]

My UDM no aux fan

bro, assuming its a aux fan problem. i've modified my fan to have it running all the time.

I just asked my mechanic checked the electrical fan for me.

1. We found that the fan-OK (fan test).
2. Fuse of the electrical –OK (tester).
3. My UDM no aux fan. Please refer to previous threads.
4. My mechanic said maybe some of the fan cables were burnt. So he will check it later.

 

[SS626A]

Update!!!

My radiator fan problem solved. I found out the fan's socket got problem & 40A fuse spoiled.

Fan socket problem

Fuse

Fuse