My gear box jerking in cold start
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Russie
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SS626A, change the ATF oil, change both the gaskets and also the ATF filter and see if there's difference. I was experiencing quite a similar situation whereby during cold start, my gearbox was sluggish until it was properly warmed up. Now after changing the oil and filter, it feels smoother and better.
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SS626A
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Pussy my g/box oil level ok. btw, how to check auto choke working or not? I will ask mechanic to check Transmission mounting later. Astroboy Transmission mounting worn out will cause g/box jerking when cold start? after 10 min driving, my g/box will working smoothly.
astroboy
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I do not how E36 auto choke works.. 
probably incorporated feature of its ICV (Idle Control Valve)..
What about your spark plugs? When was last change? Can be ignition coil too. Gearbox jerk is more scary especially if your ATF and filter has been change. Maybe wrong ATF type use.
probably incorporated feature of its ICV (Idle Control Valve).. What about your spark plugs? When was last change? Can be ignition coil too. Gearbox jerk is more scary especially if your ATF and filter has been change. Maybe wrong ATF type use.
SS626A
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astroboy;337755 said:I do not how E36 auto choke works..
I jst learn about it now.
What about your spark plugs? When was last change? Can be ignition coil too. Gearbox jerk is more scary especially if your ATF and filter has been change. Maybe wrong ATF type use.
Changed my spark plugs 2 years ago (Bosh product). Maybe I can DIY check my spark plugs 'wet' or not first. Scare me!!
I bought ori (with BMW logo) AFT g/box oil from shop. Should not be wrong. Normally, I will accompany d mechanic to service & maintenance my UMD from start to finish. Bt I worry tat mechanic changed my old oil to my new oil or not. Bcoz I was not there when he changed oil.
ICEMAN 68
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well start your car 1st and let the temp needle rise till half way to the half and then drive lorrrr ... cuz as you mentioned after 5 minutes then it becomes ok ...
by the way i think 1 year already and maybe your ATF change is due ...
by the way i think 1 year already and maybe your ATF change is due ...
astroboy
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What is actually the recommended spark plug change interval for BMW? Is it the same as JDM specification? Normal plugs for 20k km. Are we running OEM Iridium or Platinum? I doubt..
There a E90 owner faces the same situation...
http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20572
There a E90 owner faces the same situation...
http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20572
SS626A
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ICEMAN 13;337799 said:
U are right Iceman!! B4 I go out wif my UDM, I use to let's her warm up first. bt I try to solve it up.
Actually, I don't mind tat to change my ATF. Bt I worry tat what happen in my g/box only. I don't wan to give myself a good reason to swap to high cc engine & manual g/box.:wink:
SS626A
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astroboy;337800 said:
I think after 20k km. Spark plugs still good to work. I prefer to DIY check my spark plugs every month.
I hv try platinum spark plug b4. I can feel more power (accelation) in my UDM. Bt after 1 week, I can't feel d power any more. Mayb I use to it already.
I had the same problem before. The reason was due to Air Flow. How it happened?
Initially there was no problem with my e36, auto 97 model. when i excellarate the air flow flip will get stuck. Got to knock the air flow a little to solve the problem. Got fed up with the problem and send it to my so called sifu wanna be at USJ 1 near chee wen school. I told him to get me a second hand airflow and he got one for me. I paid RM 700 for that stupid airflow. He said price has increased due to the price hike in petrol. Ok lor... what to do.
Everything was OK until the bugger airflow got stucked again. Send it to my sifu again and he change another airflow for me. Drive for a day & the next day during a cold start the idling started to go kuku and jerk a little during driving. Everything goes well after warming up. Idling & gear box go smoothly. The problem only arise during warming up.
Went to my stupid sifu again. I kept telling him the problem is from the Air flow. I never had this problem with my old air flow. He told me i was wrong. And the problem was due to ICV (control valve)
Ok lor... since you are the sifu i dont dare to argue much. I told him to change the control valve. He charge me another RM700. He said price has increased. Ok la... what to do... i want to get rid of the problem once & for all. Money is one thing but the problem is my time & frustration of keep sending my car to the workshop.
After changing the ICV, The problem is still there..... damn angry & frustrated now... I send my car to the sifu again. he said there must be some other things that are faulty. I said to myself, might as well change the whole damn engine. Ask me to come again the next day as he was busy. I damn bloody piss off already so i sent my car to Mspeed (ah meng, recommended by forumer) for a second opinion.
Ah meng as me to open the bonet. he has a long hair and really look like a Guru. As usual i never like to argue with Guru or Sifu (except for SIFU wannabe). I explain to him the whole process when my aiflow got stucked. I also feel a bit pai seh lor... never send my car to him earlier... only when got problem i sent to him.
At one glance, doctor ah meng told me that your car is e36 year 97 model & the Airflow last 3 digit model number should be 134. The airflow that your mechanic had installed for you is model 135. 135 is for e36 year 94 & below without O2 sensor. He ask me to go back to mechanic to get the problem fixed. Ah meng quite fast in analysing the root cause of the problem compared to my current mechanic.
Since Mspeed is just nearby my mechanic. I just drive there to inform him on the information. He still dont believe me that the air flow is the problem. I came to see him again the next day and ask him to install my old airflow (still usable) to prove to him that the airflow is the culprit. To my surprise the problem vanished. no more idling & jerking during warming up. Now I am very sure it's the airflow (thanks to ah meng).
I went to my mechanic again and told him about the problem. He told me to leave the car there as he's afraid that the supplier of the air flow will not believe him. Ok lor ... so i left my car there and he managed to get the air flow with model 134 installed. Sigh.... the whole process of headache & frsutration took almost 2 months of my time. To be honest, there are quite a number of times that i had to sent my car 2 or 3 times for the same problem to this sifu. Luckily i stayed in USJ and easy for me to send my car to the mechanic.
As a learning, always send your car to a real SIFU not sifu wannabe. You will save time, money & frustration. .
Initially there was no problem with my e36, auto 97 model. when i excellarate the air flow flip will get stuck. Got to knock the air flow a little to solve the problem. Got fed up with the problem and send it to my so called sifu wanna be at USJ 1 near chee wen school. I told him to get me a second hand airflow and he got one for me. I paid RM 700 for that stupid airflow. He said price has increased due to the price hike in petrol. Ok lor... what to do.
Everything was OK until the bugger airflow got stucked again. Send it to my sifu again and he change another airflow for me. Drive for a day & the next day during a cold start the idling started to go kuku and jerk a little during driving. Everything goes well after warming up. Idling & gear box go smoothly. The problem only arise during warming up.
Went to my stupid sifu again. I kept telling him the problem is from the Air flow. I never had this problem with my old air flow. He told me i was wrong. And the problem was due to ICV (control valve)
Ok lor... since you are the sifu i dont dare to argue much. I told him to change the control valve. He charge me another RM700. He said price has increased. Ok la... what to do... i want to get rid of the problem once & for all. Money is one thing but the problem is my time & frustration of keep sending my car to the workshop.
After changing the ICV, The problem is still there..... damn angry & frustrated now... I send my car to the sifu again. he said there must be some other things that are faulty. I said to myself, might as well change the whole damn engine. Ask me to come again the next day as he was busy. I damn bloody piss off already so i sent my car to Mspeed (ah meng, recommended by forumer) for a second opinion.
Ah meng as me to open the bonet. he has a long hair and really look like a Guru. As usual i never like to argue with Guru or Sifu (except for SIFU wannabe). I explain to him the whole process when my aiflow got stucked. I also feel a bit pai seh lor... never send my car to him earlier... only when got problem i sent to him.
At one glance, doctor ah meng told me that your car is e36 year 97 model & the Airflow last 3 digit model number should be 134. The airflow that your mechanic had installed for you is model 135. 135 is for e36 year 94 & below without O2 sensor. He ask me to go back to mechanic to get the problem fixed. Ah meng quite fast in analysing the root cause of the problem compared to my current mechanic.
Since Mspeed is just nearby my mechanic. I just drive there to inform him on the information. He still dont believe me that the air flow is the problem. I came to see him again the next day and ask him to install my old airflow (still usable) to prove to him that the airflow is the culprit. To my surprise the problem vanished. no more idling & jerking during warming up. Now I am very sure it's the airflow (thanks to ah meng).
I went to my mechanic again and told him about the problem. He told me to leave the car there as he's afraid that the supplier of the air flow will not believe him. Ok lor ... so i left my car there and he managed to get the air flow with model 134 installed. Sigh.... the whole process of headache & frsutration took almost 2 months of my time. To be honest, there are quite a number of times that i had to sent my car 2 or 3 times for the same problem to this sifu. Luckily i stayed in USJ and easy for me to send my car to the mechanic.
As a learning, always send your car to a real SIFU not sifu wannabe. You will save time, money & frustration. .
heheh... first at all you need to diagnose whether there is a fault in the EGS and DME. Simply changing here and there does not solve the root of the problem. the problem is not all mechanics knows how to fix BMW problem since it incorporates various control unit here and there - these will justify how your component should work properly or not...
FYI - any BMW cars with automatic transmission built from 1996 onwards is using lifetime ATF (automatic transmission fluid) - meaning no need to change the oil forever. You just need to keep the ATF level sufficient. If there any leaks in the gearbox, then it are necessary to renew the ATF up to specified level after leaks have been rectified. Only Ah Beng's workshops say you need to change the ATF as part of routine maintenance just like Toyota, Nissan and Proton cars. Once the ATF has been replaced using aftermarket ATF which does not correspond to BMW lifetime ATF specification - existing gearbox is a gone case!
I believe yours is THM-R1 gearbox. There is one repair solution regarding adjusting the brake band if the jerking becomes an issue. This is a just temporary solution, meaning after adjusting the brake band the jerking cannot be resolved - new gearbox for sure... too bad jadinyee...
FYI - any BMW cars with automatic transmission built from 1996 onwards is using lifetime ATF (automatic transmission fluid) - meaning no need to change the oil forever. You just need to keep the ATF level sufficient. If there any leaks in the gearbox, then it are necessary to renew the ATF up to specified level after leaks have been rectified. Only Ah Beng's workshops say you need to change the ATF as part of routine maintenance just like Toyota, Nissan and Proton cars. Once the ATF has been replaced using aftermarket ATF which does not correspond to BMW lifetime ATF specification - existing gearbox is a gone case!
I believe yours is THM-R1 gearbox. There is one repair solution regarding adjusting the brake band if the jerking becomes an issue. This is a just temporary solution, meaning after adjusting the brake band the jerking cannot be resolved - new gearbox for sure... too bad jadinyee...
astroboy;337745 said:
what "auto choke" are u talking about? eng managment or transmission, inside the gear box have temp sensor but if faulty ,warning light on,check your ATF first...or running your eng to working temp before u drive , always remember jack (warmup)
