Idle Control Valve

  • Click here to become an Official Member of BMW Club Malaysia Download Form
I start engine mati, start again mati, mechanic teach me to step on gas pedal then start, dun release gas pedal for 3 sec..........wow.... it works, he say its the ICV. he help me to service (clean it), for 1 month problem free no problem starting, now same problem again. he took out and clean it again, again it happen. so now either i need to change it or step on gas before starting to save RM 600+. it happens about 2 or 3 times a week (assuming i start my car 30 times in a week). not too bad mar........... what do u guys think? or if i dun change it now, it will cause bigger damage later (eg. effect other component?)
 
Mouse,

Did you try cleaning the throttle valve also(lots of oil deposited around the valve)....happened to me on my E30 with M40 engine(I'm assuming that yours is an M40) had to adjust the idle higher just to prevent engine from dieing off on me when at the red light . Frequency of cleaning shound not be that frequent ..... once a month is abit too frequent, I feel.

IMHO, you're driving the car you may not feel like driving a UDM already ......becoz its not functioning as it should be....... just to save a few $$$ eg. stepping on the gas pedal before starting, etc.
 
Mouse said:
I start engine mati, start again mati, mechanic teach me to step on gas pedal then start, dun release gas pedal for 3 sec..........wow.... it works, he say its the ICV. he help me to service (clean it), for 1 month problem free no problem starting, now same problem again. he took out and clean it again, again it happen. so now either i need to change it or step on gas before starting to save RM 600+. it happens about 2 or 3 times a week (assuming i start my car 30 times in a week). not too bad mar........... what do u guys think? or if i dun change it now, it will cause bigger damage later (eg. effect other component?)

Mouse

Which mechanic did the cleaning for u? How much he charges you for that?
 
Bmmad318i said:
Mouse,

Did you try cleaning the throttle valve also(lots of oil deposited around the valve)....happened to me on my E30 with M40 engine(I'm assuming that yours is an M40) had to adjust the idle higher just to prevent engine from dieing off on me when at the red light . Frequency of cleaning shound not be that frequent ..... once a month is abit too frequent, I feel.

IMHO, you're driving the car you may not feel like driving a UDM already ......becoz its not functioning as it should be....... just to save a few $$$ eg. stepping on the gas pedal before starting, etc.
e46 318i M43 1.9L year 2000
 
mizuan said:
Mouse

Which mechanic did the cleaning for u? How much he charges you for that?
M-Speed USJ, dunno how much he charge coz i service oil together and change some other parts, so all workmanship sum up
 
Mouse said:
M-Speed USJ, dunno how much he charge coz i service oil together and change some other parts, so all workmanship sum up

OK. Thanks. I probably get the guys at Batu Caves to clean it up for me.:rolleyes:
 
Hi Mouse,

my car is also a e46 318i M43 1.9L year 2000. I also seam to be having the same problem...........starting sometimes and when press the gas pedal and start then o.k.

Also sometime while driving then the idling will drop to 500 and can feel vibrations........do u have the same problem?

Getting a bit fed up these days with the car man...............or maybe its just that its getting old...........6 years and millage just hit 100k
 
nathan said:
Hi Mouse,

my car is also a e46 318i M43 1.9L year 2000. I also seam to be having the same problem...........starting sometimes and when press the gas pedal and start then o.k.

Also sometime while driving then the idling will drop to 500 and can feel vibrations........do u have the same problem?

Getting a bit fed up these days with the car man...............or maybe its just that its getting old...........6 years and millage just hit 100k

Nathan,

Mine is 10 years old and clocking 250k in mileage:eek:

Its ok to get fed up with a proton...:D
 
nathan said:
Hi Mouse,

my car is also a e46 318i M43 1.9L year 2000. I also seam to be having the same problem...........starting sometimes and when press the gas pedal and start then o.k.

Also sometime while driving then the idling will drop to 500 and can feel vibrations........do u have the same problem?

Getting a bit fed up these days with the car man...............or maybe its just that its getting old...........6 years and millage just hit 100k
bro, this problem can be cause by few things such as airmask, fuel filter, etc. but if u depress the pedal and start your car and your car is able to start, then big possibility is the idle control valve that cost 600+, (that is what ah meng told me)meawhile rpm drop to 500 out of a sudden only happen once, i just stop at the roadside, off and on back the engine and everything is OK till now. i will change the ICV soon, but now pokai so have to press pedal n start, muhahahahahah, anyway it only happen 2 or 3 times a week out of 30 times starting the car, i think its still acceptable lar
 
Hi Mouse,

Thks for your feedback man......actually i had the same problem ealier then Ah Meng changed the adjuster unit cost abt 630 (the black thing)........first it was o.k now the problem started again..........have to consult him again.....

yalah bro maybe just leave it at the moment.......but maybe i might go visit dr ah meng this weekend.......
 
jarance said:
Mizuan, when you say "timing meter", do you mean the RPM?

How low did your RPM goes down to before the engine starts to shudder?

If there is no alarm message then it is very unlikely to be the O2 sensor coz
this sensor is monitored by the ECU.

Chances your problem is due to the ICV.

BTW did the engine sometime dies off. Sometime the problem of idling
speed is also due to the vacuum hose. check this item as well.

yes, ICV can be serviced by cleaning it up.
Guys,

Went to clean up the ICV last weekend. Problem not solved. New one evolved. The ICV jammed after a few hours of being cleaned. I can start the engine but it wont stay idle at 1000 rpm. Unless I press the accelerator pedal, the engine will die off. Ends up changing the ICV (RM675 incl. labour).:(

I am a very very frustrated man right now. My original problem is still there despite changing the gear switch sensor and the ICV. Now the mechanic says maybe the gear box was not rebuilt properly. He had asked me to go and get the mechanic who did my gear box to redo them. Problem is, this guy is quite cocky, telling me that he had done numbers of rebuilding gear box jobs and none came back with a problem.

:confused::confused::confused:
 
Mizuan,

Maybe it is time to change your mechanic, Looks like u're going to spend lots of $$$ without rectifying the problem. There is a lot of so called BMW specialist out there just doing guess work who can't diagnose the problem. Or you should seek a second opinion b4 doing anything.
 
Bmmad318i said:
Mizuan,

Maybe it is time to change your mechanic, Looks like u're going to spend lots of $$$ without rectifying the problem. There is a lot of so called BMW specialist out there just doing guess work who can't diagnose the problem. Or you should seek a second opinion b4 doing anything.
Bmmad318i,

Thanks. Indeed, that is a big maybe to me. But I'm gonna have to deal with this guy who did my gear box until I'm satisfied. He gives me a year's warranty and I'm gonna make sure that he keeps his word....or I'll drag him to the tribunal:D...once done, he can say bye-bye to bmwclubmalaysia.com's members coz I am gonna spread the word around.

I go and seek second, third and fourth opinion b4 doin enythin, esp. when it involves costs which makes you think like you're a Malaysian emplyed to work in Germany but paid in Ringgit.:rolleyes:But even if you thought you have taken all the necc precautions, there's a tiny spot where you'll end up making mistakes anyway...I call it fate...:(
 
...kindly read post #14 Mizuan...it will cost you to have the problem rectified BUT it will be rectified for GOOD !...Auto Bavaria is the right specialist doctor after referring to all the various advice from the many unsuccessful & expensive general practitioners & bomohs....

...a very good car needs an exceptionally good team which includes the responsible owner & the after sales team recommended authorised engineers, to ensure it remains a very good car...

;)
 
mizuan said:
Guys,

Went to clean up the ICV last weekend. Problem not solved. New one evolved. The ICV jammed after a few hours of being cleaned. I can start the engine but it wont stay idle at 1000 rpm. Unless I press the accelerator pedal, the engine will die off. Ends up changing the ICV (RM675 incl. labour).:(

I am a very very frustrated man right now. My original problem is still there despite changing the gear switch sensor and the ICV. Now the mechanic says maybe the gear box was not rebuilt properly. He had asked me to go and get the mechanic who did my gear box to redo them. Problem is, this guy is quite cocky, telling me that he had done numbers of rebuilding gear box jobs and none came back with a problem.

:confused::confused::confused:

First and foremost, your idling speed problem and the gearbox have nothing to do with each other. i.e. the problem is not related. When the gearbox is is in Neutral or park position, do you still have idling speed problem. It YES, then your problem is not due to the gearbox being faulty.

If after changing the ICV and you still have the engine dying off, then concentrate on the AFM as advise by some of the forummers. (if your car have AFM).

To check the AFM condition, just removed the air filter and peep thru the box to see the vane of the AFM. If you cannot see the vane, switch off the engine. If you cannot see the vane coming back, then your vane is stuck at the open position.

Try banging the top of the AFM and see whether the vane come back and close the AFM inlet. I have service my AFM before by cleaning and filling the edge that is touching the body of the AFM body. So far been more than 1 year without problem.
 
jarance said:
First and foremost, your idling speed problem and the gearbox have nothing to do with each other. i.e. the problem is not related. When the gearbox is is in Neutral or park position, do you still have idling speed problem. It YES, then your problem is not due to the gearbox being faulty.

If after changing the ICV and you still have the engine dying off, then concentrate on the AFM as advise by some of the forummers. (if your car have AFM).

To check the AFM condition, just removed the air filter and peep thru the box to see the vane of the AFM. If you cannot see the vane, switch off the engine. If you cannot see the vane coming back, then your vane is stuck at the open position.

Try banging the top of the AFM and see whether the vane come back and close the AFM inlet. I have service my AFM before by cleaning and filling the edge that is touching the body of the AFM body. So far been more than 1 year without problem.
Khisham,

Thanks for reminding me not to trust the shamans....

Jarance,

The idling is ok at N or P. The rpm will drop and the engine shudders once engaged or when I had made a complete stop after slowing down as the gear drops to 1st gear. Depressing the accelerator pedal immediately will cause a few seconds of free wheeling (like the gear is slippin) before an immediate jerk.

I guess a good way to make everyone understand the problem is by referring to a manual transmission. What happens when you make a stop and do not press the clutch pad? It shudders and if you dont press them immediately, the engine will die off. That is exactly what happens with my auto tranny only that it has yet to die on me.

The same thing. What happens when you press the accelerator but keep the left leg pressed on the clutch, only after a few seconds of ramming the gas you let go of the clutch? It creates an immediate jerk on the car. Same thing with my auto tranny.

BTW I have peeped and banged the AFM.:D
 
Did you see the vane come back when you peep?

Ahh.. If the idling speed is OK at N or P position, I don't think the problem could be due to the AFM or the ICV.

Please check the gear selection switch. Sometime this worn out contact on the gear selection switch would also cause the problem. You can inspect this switch condition by removing the cover of the gearshift. It only cost you about RM180 to change this switch if it is faulty or worn out.

BTW, this switch failure also cannot be diagnose with modic. Only a very experience mechanic can know this when he/she test drive the car.. You should considered seriously to change your mechanic. Look up the List of workshop that is used by other forummers.

As the automatic have been rebuilt, I sure the filter and the AFT have been changed. So it unlikely to be the cause of the tranny to fail or malfunction. Failure of solenoid for the gearbox is also monitored and registered as alarm.
 
Top Bottom