engine loose compression

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budakbarublaja

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having this problem sejak kebelakangan ini....car is e30using 2.7block with eta head....change head already since got problem with engine oil selalu kering....but after change the head still got that problem with white smoking at exhaust....after checking the compression....only piston no.1 ok...yg lain tak sampai 1bar pun....anyone can help me????:wink::wink:
 
My understanding is the engine consists of two main parts, ie the cylinder head and the engine block.

My compression problem was caused by a cracked cylinder head and cracked valves. I change the head and the compression is back to normal.

If you still have problem after changing the head it could be the engine block. It could be the block itself of more likely the pistons.

In any event you may be in for a complete overhaul or even a new second hand engine. If you change the block or the engine you must get JPJ approval.

Get a reliable mechto look at your engine.
 
check you valve timing. an improperly adjusted valvetrain will cause a leak in cylinder pressure.
 
if the timing checks out okay, and looking at your oil lost and smoking issue, you may be in need of new valve seal which will mean a full cylinder head rebuild.
 
leforte;327193 said:
if the timing checks out okay, and looking at your oil lost and smoking issue, you may be in need of new valve seal which will mean a full cylinder head rebuild.

i already change cylinder head.....n fully rebuild....can it be damage again??
 
budakbarublaja;327169 said:
having this problem sejak kebelakangan ini....

car is e30
using 2.7block with eta head....
change head already since got problem with engine oil selalu kering....but after change the head still got that problem with white smoking at exhaust....

after checking the compression....only piston no.1 ok...yg lain tak sampai 1bar pun....

anyone can help me????:wink::wink:

m20 eta blocks has a major flaw,....piston rings wear out fast if not used with correct engine oil specification. This is because the piston travels longer than the standard stroke of the other m20 family, but problem rectified with advance design of piston rings found on the m50 and newer designs
Wrong engine oil specs can also cause prolonged heat plus with our tropical climate will accelerate wear and tear parts usage.
 
teejay;327196 said:
m20 eta blocks has a major flaw,....piston rings wear out fast if not used with correct engine oil specification. This is because the piston travels longer than the standard stroke of the other m20 family, but problem rectified with advance design of piston rings found on the m50 and newer designs
Wrong engine oil specs can also cause prolonged heat plus with our tropical climate will accelerate wear and tear parts usage.

teejay....i always using semi syntatic engine oil....but nowadays....i using normal engine oil to reduce the time the oil engine akan kering....

the thing is....how can i know that te piston rings going wear out already???did u have any idea??beside open the cylinder head n check one by one....
 
whats the best oil to use? brand and thickness? 15/40? 15/50? 10/40?
my engine oil seems to dry fast too... but no leakage at head or block... hmmm...
 
a-boo;327253 said:
whats the best oil to use? brand and thickness? 15/40? 15/50? 10/40?
my engine oil seems to dry fast too... but no leakage at head or block... hmmm...

same with me bro....got white smoke also???
 
i see many bmw cars (new or old models) when draining old engine oils, it is always lesser than the amount that firstly put in. same with mine...
 
mine no white smoke or anything... damn weird... i check my oil level very low, but when i put in back 4 liter of oil, over the level plak... pening man... i used 10w40 motul, oil dried up...
 
a-boo;327318 said:
mine no white smoke or anything... damn weird... i check my oil level very low, but when i put in back 4 liter of oil, over the level plak... pening man... i used 10w40 motul, oil dried up...

check your oil level only after stopping for more than 8 hours of driving- the best time would be in a mid sunday morning, make it a habit to check it weekly.

oil can leak when you drive, so at standstill you cant really tell.
still best advise is to keep the engine as clean as possible and have a thorough inspection from top and bottom if there is a suspected leak
 
My ride's an '84 m20b20. Far as I kno, the correct engine oil spec for e30 is 20w/50. Whether it's 5w/10w/15w is irrelevant in our equatorial climate. I presume a straight 60 viscosity oil wud be even better if we can find it.
 
Mine is E28 5201 '84 M20 engine. Being an old faithful semi-vintageee, I'm using 20W/50 for the past years. Thicker velocity cylinder oil is recommended if white smoke is sometimes visible, usually during early morning start or upon sudden acceleration.

Regular top-up of cylinder oil once a week or every forthnightly (sometimed up to 1 litre) is a sign of piston ring wear N tear which then resulted to compression and power loss. I was recommended top overhaul to solve the above problems.
 
Nik Mansor Mohamad;327565 said:
Mine is E28 5201 '84 M20 engine. Being an old faithful semi-vintageee, I'm using 20W/50 for the past years. Thicker velocity cylinder oil is recommended if white smoke is sometimes visible, usually during early morning start or upon sudden acceleration.

Regular top-up of cylinder oil once a week or every forthnightly (sometimed up to 1 litre) is a sign of piston ring wear N tear which then resulted to compression and power loss. I was recommended top overhaul to solve the above problems.

already do top overhaul bro.....

thinking to do overall overhaul or change the block.....hhhmmmm :stupid: damn i am very2 lost....huh
 
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