E46 2004 - Gearbox Delaying !!

[keane]

Dear all,Please share your expertise ....I just got my E46 318I - 2004 lifestyle model 2 months ago....However, i'm encounter a "problem" or it isn't a "problem" at all, but i need to know what exactly the problem are..Well, everytime i fresh start my engine earlier in the morning, i start up the engine and straight away shift to "D" for a go...but it seems like don't move and that at least wait for about 10 to 20 seconds, then it will start and "slow" moving forward...if i want to go for a immediate move forward, i need to switch to steptonic and go for 1st gear..and it goes...I just change my ATF and the problem still exist....Is that normal? i heard that it's normal for almost every 318i....please advise....coz i'm a bit scared of my gearbox problem...thanksBMW-Owner

 

[mbm8800]

Dear all,

Please share your expertise ....I just got my E46 318I - 2004 lifestyle model 2 months ago....

However, i'm encounter a "problem" or it isn't a "problem" at all, but i need to know what exactly the problem are..

Well, everytime i fresh start my engine earlier in the morning, i start up the engine and straight away shift to "D" for a go...but it seems like don't move and that at least wait for about 10 to 20 seconds, then it will start and "slow" moving forward...

if i want to go for a immediate move forward, i need to switch to steptonic and go for 1st gear..and it goes...

I just change my ATF and the problem still exist....

Is that normal? i heard that it's normal for almost every 318i....

please advise....coz i'm a bit scared of my gearbox problem...

thanks
BMW-Owner

sorry 2 hear ur prob but i think u sure kena tembak one after this:bandit: :bandit: !!!
btw. welcum to da club.. sure got sifu which can help u wit ur prob bro...

 

[MRTA.chew]

what you should have done is to do gear exercise to warm up the gearbox components and atf first.

after starting the engine, shift to "r" for 10 seconds, "n" for another 10s, "d" for another 10s, and then "s". start driving off GENTLY and SLOWLY in "s" for a while, then shift a gear up ie to "m2". when the temperature gauge is near the middle mark ie the normal operating temperature, then only shift it back to "d". by then, you can switch on your aircon and resume your normal driving from your initial grandma driving style.

the logic is to warm up your gearbox gradually by letting the atf flow thru all components before driving off slowly. by driving off in "s", you also make use of this rarely used driving mode.

shifting to "d" immediately after starting and driving off with hard acceleration is akin to waking up and running 100m dash first thing in the morning. you will only invite all kinds of trouble to your car. start slow and gentle, and the parts will last a lot longer.

btw, do open up all your windows (incl sunroof if available) first thing in the morning to exercise the rotating parts and preventing them from spoiling from lack of use.

do this daily, and your car components will last a lot longer.

 

[keane]

Hi Mr Chew,

Really appreciate your time to reply my message. However, Is this problem mostly happen to all E46 users? it's sound weird to me everyday i need to wait about 1 min and do all the exercise.

I mean after i have done all the exercise, will this problem subside? Even my wife laugh at me, her Honda Jazz can drive straight away after start up. hehe
And mine need to wait for a while to go off....

So, is it a "MUST-DO" situation or it can be repair and what's the cost? Or Let it be situation.....And is there any E46 owner out there also encounter the same problem...

please advise...

Thanks
BMW-owner

 

[Mouse]

mine is E46 318i year 2000, i dun have such problem, immediately shift to D and go, no problem at all. i have many friend driving E46 318i, never hear they complain of such problem, i think u better get your gearbox dignose

 

[Sushi69]

Gear Change

Morning, I am driving a E46 318i 2000. Had the car for the past 5 months. Having the same issues. Once I start and drive off, the gear does not change from 1 to 2 until about 200meters. But if I start and leave the engine running for about 2 to 3 min in the morning, its a all go no problem at all.

I was also informed that this matter is normal.. But actually this is my first 2nd car. Previously all new and never encountered such problems.

I thought of flushing and changing my ATF during the next service to see if there is any change... Will keep u updated.. another 8k km to go...
:smokin:

Hi Mr Chew,

Really appreciate your time to reply my message. However, Is this problem mostly happen to all E46 users? it's sound weird to me everyday i need to wait about 1 min and do all the exercise.

I mean after i have done all the exercise, will this problem subside? Even my wife laugh at me, her Honda Jazz can drive straight away after start up. hehe
And mine need to wait for a while to go off....

So, is it a "MUST-DO" situation or it can be repair and what's the cost? Or Let it be situation.....And is there any E46 owner out there also encounter the same problem...

please advise...

Thanks
BMW-owner

 

[Alan Teh]

wht size of rims r u using? and the specs of the tyre? have u done any mod on ur exhaust?

 

[keane]

Hi Sushi,

Thanks for sharing your experince, In facts, i also need to wait 2 to 3 mins warming up the enginer then everything is fine....good to hear it's normal..but i will keep good track on the gearbox, coz i heard from expert, the most expensive repaid for bimmer is gearbox and the repair cost can shoot up to 8k....

Oh by the way, fyi, i encouter this problem before i flush my ATF but the problem still exist after i flush my ATF....hope this is normal though.

In case, you want to flush your ATF after 8K Km, i recommend AMG at taman mayang, it's cheaper than stuart.... just a recommendation...

Keep me posted once your problem subside....

thanks,
BMWowner

 

[keane]

wht size of rims r u using? and the specs of the tyre? have u done any mod on ur exhaust?

Hi Alan,

I'm using OZ racing rim with 18 inches with lower Eibach spring..and the tyre is 235/40ZR18.

Do you think because of heavy?

I didn't do any mod on my exhaust or whatsoever, all stock condition..

please advise.

thanks
BMWowner

 

[Alan Teh]

u have pmed

 

[moriz]

Hey Keane,

It only happens on cold starts right?

I have exactly the same problem with my E46N42 after I changed my ATF.

I talked to 2 different mechanics and they have encountered this problem with other E46s as well especially after the ATF change. (Apparently, It also happens to Hyundais as well)

There was absolutely no issues on the diagnostic machine as well.

Both told me that you should not change gear until the temp reaches more that 40c on cold starts or when the car is left idle for more than 8 hrs.

I personally called Che' Mat (the JPJ Engineer Director) in the Traffic Section on TraxFM twice as well and the advice given was CHEAP and EFFECTIVE:

1. On cold morning starts - run the engine about 1/2 mins.

2. Engage the gear from P to N to D to S and then to M1 about 5 secs each to get all the fluid flowing in all ports.

3. When you hit M1 you will DEFINITELY feel the gear locking as this is the lowest gear.

4. Then only you move back to D and there will be no problem. Or you can go move at M1 for a few meters and then switch to D.

You will notice that this sometimes only happens when the car is idle for more than 6/8hrs so I guess it has to do with the temperature.

So far this proves to be effective and there has bee no issues after that. Or you can try to flush your ATF again but I dont see it as an issue.

 

[astroboy]

I read an article posting by anxious and it goes like this:

Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and Filter

For older automatics using Red Line or other synthetic ATF, drain interval 30,000 miles. Old fashioned petroleum ATF, drain interval 15,000 miles.
At various production dates in the mid-1990s, which vary according to model, BMW switched to their so-called "lifetime fill" ATF in automatic transmissions, as well as manual gearbox lubricant and differential oil. The reason for this, as far as anyone can tell, is marketing and not engineering – the idea being to foster the notion of the low-maintenance BMW.
There was no explanation of what "lifetime" meant, i.e., lifetime of the car, the component, or for that matter the driver. If it was the component, then obviously anything could be "lifetime fill". The factory’s initial position is that these lubricants never need to be changed. Then, some time later, it came out that "lifetime" means 100,000 miles. Many dealerships are now recommending manual gearbox and differential oil changes be done at customer expense every 60,000 miles. Every independent BMW technician I know recommends a 30,000-mile interval, and many recommend Red Line synthetic oils (www.redlineoil.com), but not for automatics with "lifetime fill."
Older automatic transmission models, which do not have "lifetime fill" should have ATF and filter services every 15,000 miles if using petroleum ATF; every 30,000 miles with synthetic.
However, the modern automatic transmissions are different. No one knows exactly what BMW’s proprietary ATF is, so no one knows if there are viable alternatives. We do know that BMW dealerships charge about $500 for an ATF and filter service, due to the price of the ATF. And that’s assuming you can get them to do the job, which is not often the case.
Bavarian Autosport (www.bavauto.com) is now importing the proprietary "lifetime fill" ATF at reasonable prices, which they sell along with filter kits, for independent BMW shops and do-it-yourselfers.
It is risky to drain a previously un-maintained automatic transmission with high mileage, even though if it were my car I would probably chance it. Still, I have seen it happen too many times, where a well-meaning owner or technician performs an ATF and filter service on a neglected but well-shifting automatic, and then all of the sudden it starts slipping. I can’t explain it, but my feeling is the fresh ATF flushes a bit of sludge from a place where it was doing no harm to a place where it does do harm. Overfilling, underfilling, and cleanliness are also issues in ATF and filter servicing, but these should not be problematic for a professional BMW technician, dealer or independent.
BMW has backed off their lifetime fill mantra for automatic transmissions, currently recommending an ATF and filter change every 100,000 miles.
My inclination is to tell people to change "lifetime" ATF and filter every 30,000 miles. However the fact is, I've seen BMW automatic transmissions that were maintained break anyway. In that event, say it happens at 90,000 miles, you would like to have that $1,500 you spent on ATF and filter changes to put toward your new automatic transmission. And if I told you to spend it on maintenance you’re probably not going to be very happy with me. On the other hand, I have seen maintained automatics last 200,000 miles. I have also seen unmaintained automatics last 200,000 miles, although both are very rare. There's just no predicting with these transmissions. When you choose to buy an automatic transmission, you also buy into the vagaries of the darn things, which is one reason technicians hate them.
Whether to maintain a modern BMW automatic is up to you. I am washing my hands of automatic transmissions – I don’t like them, I don’t buy them, and I don’t mess around with them under the car. At the end of the day, for long-term durability, order the car with a manual gearbox.
At automatic transmission replacement time, we are confronted with the reality that the local transmission shop cannot rebuild BMW automatic transmissions, even those built by GM (BMW’s GM transmissions bear no resemblance to GM transmission in domestic cars). There are some domestic specialists who concentrate in BMW automatic transmission rebuilding, and you’ll see their ads in Roundel and Bimmer. However, I have no experience with any of the current domestic rebuilders. My experience in the past is…well, the owner wound up buying a BMW factory rebuilt automatic transmission every time, and this is the course I recommend to readers – "back to the dealer."

 

[keane]

hi alan,

Pmed? Sorry, i'm kinda new with all the term....can let me know what is Pmed..

thanks,
keane

 

[keane]

Hey Keane,

It only happens on cold starts right?

I have exactly the same problem with my E46N42 after I changed my ATF.

I talked to 2 different mechanics and they have encountered this problem with other E46s as well especially after the ATF change. (Apparently, It also happens to Hyundais as well)

There was absolutely no issues on the diagnostic machine as well.

Both told me that you should not change gear until the temp reaches more that 40c on cold starts or when the car is left idle for more than 8 hrs.

I personally called Che' Mat (the JPJ Engineer Director) in the Traffic Section on TraxFM twice as well and the advice given was CHEAP and EFFECTIVE:

1. On cold morning starts - run the engine about 1/2 mins.

2. Engage the gear from P to N to D to S and then to M1 about 5 secs each to get all the fluid flowing in all ports.

3. When you hit M1 you will DEFINITELY feel the gear locking as this is the lowest gear.

4. Then only you move back to D and there will be no problem. Or you can go move at M1 for a few meters and then switch to D.

You will notice that this sometimes only happens when the car is idle for more than 6/8hrs so I guess it has to do with the temperature.

So far this proves to be effective and there has bee no issues after that. Or you can try to flush your ATF again but I dont see it as an issue.

Hi Moriz,

Got your point. Appreciate your time for helping me out at this forum.....

Thanks
keane

 

[astroboy]

That would be Private Message (PM). PM-ed mean message has been sent, so check ur "mail" via the Private Message" link at the top right hand corner of the forum where ur ID is stated.

 

[keane]

I read an article posting by anxious and it goes like this:

Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and Filter

For older automatics using Red Line or other synthetic ATF, drain interval 30,000 miles. Old fashioned petroleum ATF, drain interval 15,000 miles.
At various production dates in the mid-1990s, which vary according to model, BMW switched to their so-called "lifetime fill" ATF in automatic transmissions, as well as manual gearbox lubricant and differential oil. The reason for this, as far as anyone can tell, is marketing and not engineering – the idea being to foster the notion of the low-maintenance BMW.
There was no explanation of what "lifetime" meant, i.e., lifetime of the car, the component, or for that matter the driver. If it was the component, then obviously anything could be "lifetime fill". The factory’s initial position is that these lubricants never need to be changed. Then, some time later, it came out that "lifetime" means 100,000 miles. Many dealerships are now recommending manual gearbox and differential oil changes be done at customer expense every 60,000 miles. Every independent BMW technician I know recommends a 30,000-mile interval, and many recommend Red Line synthetic oils (www.redlineoil.com), but not for automatics with "lifetime fill."
Older automatic transmission models, which do not have "lifetime fill" should have ATF and filter services every 15,000 miles if using petroleum ATF; every 30,000 miles with synthetic.
However, the modern automatic transmissions are different. No one knows exactly what BMW’s proprietary ATF is, so no one knows if there are viable alternatives. We do know that BMW dealerships charge about $500 for an ATF and filter service, due to the price of the ATF. And that’s assuming you can get them to do the job, which is not often the case.
Bavarian Autosport (www.bavauto.com) is now importing the proprietary "lifetime fill" ATF at reasonable prices, which they sell along with filter kits, for independent BMW shops and do-it-yourselfers.
It is risky to drain a previously un-maintained automatic transmission with high mileage, even though if it were my car I would probably chance it. Still, I have seen it happen too many times, where a well-meaning owner or technician performs an ATF and filter service on a neglected but well-shifting automatic, and then all of the sudden it starts slipping. I can’t explain it, but my feeling is the fresh ATF flushes a bit of sludge from a place where it was doing no harm to a place where it does do harm. Overfilling, underfilling, and cleanliness are also issues in ATF and filter servicing, but these should not be problematic for a professional BMW technician, dealer or independent.
BMW has backed off their lifetime fill mantra for automatic transmissions, currently recommending an ATF and filter change every 100,000 miles.
My inclination is to tell people to change "lifetime" ATF and filter every 30,000 miles. However the fact is, I've seen BMW automatic transmissions that were maintained break anyway. In that event, say it happens at 90,000 miles, you would like to have that $1,500 you spent on ATF and filter changes to put toward your new automatic transmission. And if I told you to spend it on maintenance you’re probably not going to be very happy with me. On the other hand, I have seen maintained automatics last 200,000 miles. I have also seen unmaintained automatics last 200,000 miles, although both are very rare. There's just no predicting with these transmissions. When you choose to buy an automatic transmission, you also buy into the vagaries of the darn things, which is one reason technicians hate them.
Whether to maintain a modern BMW automatic is up to you. I am washing my hands of automatic transmissions – I don’t like them, I don’t buy them, and I don’t mess around with them under the car. At the end of the day, for long-term durability, order the car with a manual gearbox.
At automatic transmission replacement time, we are confronted with the reality that the local transmission shop cannot rebuild BMW automatic transmissions, even those built by GM (BMW’s GM transmissions bear no resemblance to GM transmission in domestic cars). There are some domestic specialists who concentrate in BMW automatic transmission rebuilding, and you’ll see their ads in Roundel and Bimmer. However, I have no experience with any of the current domestic rebuilders. My experience in the past is…well, the owner wound up buying a BMW factory rebuilt automatic transmission every time, and this is the course I recommend to readers – "back to the dealer."

Hi Astroboy,

Well spoken, now i feel more filled with more knowledge about the gearbox....

thanks,
keane

 

[Alan Teh]

pm = private message, check it out at the top of ur right hand

 

[emaveric]

Out of curiosity, how much does a gearbox change will cost you?

 

[keane]

Out of curiosity, how much does a gearbox change will cost you?

Hi, i didn't change my gearbox .. i just change my ATF.....anyway, for ATF alone, they charge me about RM 500 to RM 600..

i think it's a pretty fair price..

thanks
keane

 

[kimi_el]

Hi Keane
Fyi, you can try checking out on your 'air mask'.
I encountered almost the same problem as yours.
Once changed, everything back to tiptop condition!!