E34: Powerless

[ycchoong]

Thanks Champion. Anybody here has really tried this?

You may want to change out the fuel filter which could be dirty. When did you change last?
Mine having same problem b4, sluggish, after changing out the filter, it became better. Fuel filter needs to be changed according to the service book. Fuel pressure will drop if filter is dirty.
Good luck.

 

[buzzlie]

You may want to change out the fuel filter which could be dirty. When did you change last?
Mine having same problem b4, sluggish, after changing out the filter, it became better. Fuel filter needs to be changed according to the service book. Fuel pressure will drop if filter is dirty.
Good luck.

Thanks. But mine is OK, just changed nearly 2 months ago. Reset the ECU recently ... more or less satisfied.

 

[buzzlie]

Just to update ...

Have been suffering for few months with this Powerless issue. One fine day, heard some noise from the exhaust pipe. Went for checking and found out that the exhause gasket oledi spoil. Changed that and at last ... got back some of the power that I've been losing.

 

[buzzlie]

Bros,

I have another powerless problem. Recently, when it rains my engine become sluggish ... can still move, tekan but with no pickup at all. I suspect somewhere inside there got splashed with rain water on the road. After the rain stop or no water on the road, the car is back to normal. Any idea or tips on what should I check?

 

[maxxsp]

Bros,

I have another powerless problem. Recently, when it rains my engine become sluggish ... can still move, tekan but with no pickup at all. I suspect somewhere inside there got splashed with rain water on the road. After the rain stop or no water on the road, the car is back to normal. Any idea or tips on what should I check?

Are you running the stock airbox or open filter?
Sometimes cold air intakes can suck up rain water depending on the location.

 

[buzzlie]

Are you running the stock airbox or open filter?
Sometimes cold air intakes can suck up rain water depending on the location.

No idea. How to check this bro?

 

[Iylia H]

sorry to hijack your post.. but im a bit dumb founded to why my auto m50b20 engine had almost stalled itself twice.. once when i was about to exit a junction and the next, after stopping for touch n go, it almost stalled as i pressed on the accelerator.. i dnt think it was because of the momentary stops.

both occasion happens right after the car reach its optimum temperature

 

[m.azharm5]

No idea. How to check this bro?

that mean your air filter dont have box open air . so air senang masok terus air filter go to AFM .
correct if im wrong .:top:

 

[m.azharm5]

sorry to hijack your post.. but im a bit dumb founded to why my auto m50b20 engine had almost stalled itself twice.. once when i was about to exit a junction and the next, after stopping for touch n go, it almost stalled as i pressed on the accelerator.. i dnt think it was because of the momentary stops.

both occasion happens right after the car reach its optimum temperature

pls check your air flow meter .

 

[Iylia H]

pls check your air flow meter .

how do i do this?

 

[yusriyacob]

loss of power and should take care of a few thing such ass fuel pump....AFM ,

 

[-azfar-]

can anyone list out the possibilities for loss of power? so everyone can just refer to it and use it as a means of checking would be much appreciated

 

[ag1355]

I had a bogging problem sometime last year. Car ran fine when engine was cold or when weather was cool outside. In the afternoon when the engine was hot the car loses power below 3,000 RPM. You can floor it but the engine speed climbs slowly. Once it reaches past 3,000 it shoots up suddenly. Slopes were a real problem.

Tried swapping the following items and it did not help.
1. AFM
2. Ignition coils
3. Fuel pump
4. Injectors and fuel pressure regulator
5. ECU coolant sensor
6. ECU relays
7. Crankshaft and camshaft position sensors
8. Catalytic converter


The problem was finally traced to the Evaporative emmision control system (EVAP). The fuel vapor hose from the charcoal canister (purge tank) to the intake manifold was disconnected and plugged. This solved the problem as the charcoal canister and valve were bypassed. I think the problem was due to either the electrical purge valve or the charcoal canister. I just plugged the hoses and did not replace the above. Car runs fine till today

 

[Cressidom]

Hi all,

That's all I did too, after spending a lot of time and money, by passed the EVAP / Charcoal Canister and power improved.
Get the car to a mechanic that has MODIC II. That will tell you a lot.

Cheers
Dom

 

[fandango]

Hi all,

That's all I did too, after spending a lot of time and money, by passed the EVAP / Charcoal Canister and power improved.
Get the car to a mechanic that has MODIC II. That will tell you a lot.

Cheers
Dom

after doing this, does the smell of petrol become stronger?

 

[ag1355]

In my case, there is no petrol smell

 

[ag1355]

Tried the modic right in the beginning but the modic was not able to communicate with engine. It can connect with other systems in the car except the engine. Engine runs fine though.

Does anyone have any idea why this is so. Mine is a 95 M50B20 vanos.

 

[Cressidom]

In my case very rarely i got petrol smell..Only when Tekan kau kau

The Mechanic who tuned my car with modic said only to use MODIC II, it could do all the diagnostics...plus adjust CO.. Also they way the Motoronic is setup is that..you can only
tune/reset it like a 100 time or so..after that..it's no use. Need to change

Tks/Dom

 

[-azfar-]

but i thought it shouldn't smell even if you tekan kau kau

 

[macdaque]

This is the time for 525 Single Vanos.
Your 2L engine offer to e30 driver.

You mean can just upgrade engine without problems? iDrive and all working after that? Other problems? What's the resale value of the 2.2L engine half-cut? Any place to do engine upgrade / replacement?