Changing to Aluminium Brake Pedals Help

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pussy;154430 said:
what Daniel said is true.. it's @#$* to drill it.. u need a metal drill bit, masking tape to mark the point of the drill hole and to ensure the drill does not slip, some trust washers, the screws come off easily cos of movement of your FEET !!
the accelrator pedal is the @#$% to screw.. need to get the bottom nut fitted is a #$%*.

btw, have fun..

Hahahaa.. Just saw this thread and really felt for what pussy has said.. :D

Just to share my experience... I did it on my E90.. and yes! Its a real #$%* pain! but guess what, satisfaction index is pretty high! :love: :stupid:

First the Brake Pedal
Dunno about other bimmers, I saw the E90 brake pedal rubber has a shield on the right to prevent the drivers leg get caught under the brake pedal while moving the right leg from the gas pedal to the brake pedal when apply brake.. never seen this before in a JDM.

.. and thinking if I retain the OEM brake pedal rubber, I can also retain both the brake and gas pedal level or to be exact, raise by same height after the installation of the aluminum pedals.

I then decided to retain the OEM brake pedal rubber for the above 2 reasons.

I didn't realise, having the OEM rubber on, its gonna make the installation an even greater nightmare.. :eek:

The surface of the brake pedal itself already curvy, plus now I need to navigate my drilling through 2 layers of rubber, one under the aluminum pedal plus the OEM pedal rubber~this is thick. A slight tilt of the drill can cause the hole to be out but a good few mm!! for a lobang few mm in diameter!!

The distance of the screws are very close to the edge on the brake pedals which means I have no error tolerance. Drill bit too thick also would result the lobang to hit the edge and if this happen, the lobang cannot pakai and I also dunno how to undo the damage..

I started to take the most difficult lobang, which is the right top lobang where the OEM rubber is the thickest, where the leg shield is.

The nut is sooooo..... difficult to put on because with 2 layers of rubbers and a washer, the screws that came with the pedal set is ngam ngam only... it takes no less than 10 min to put on the #$%* washer and nut, for one lobang only!!! I think both the washer and nut drop about more than 30 times during the attempt! for one lobang only!!!!

Now the second lobang (left bottom)... with the first lobang screwed on, the aluminum pedal at least required less effort to align.

The 3rd lobang (right bottom), also thick rubber there.. the moment I made penetration there, I couldn't withdraw the drill fast enough. The drill smashed onto the alu. pedal and leave behind a scar over it..

... and by this time, I am pissed!! tired, running out of time, getting late and dark, wife home soon.. I move on to the easier gas pedal leaving the brake pedals only with 3 screws.. :eek:

..the Gas Pedal
The screws that comes with the kit are too long and it will hit the kick down switch cover, preventing gas pedal to move down any further and might not even kick down. Need to cut the screws..

Drilling is a breeze because our gas pedal is plastic and its surface is flat, unlike the curvy #$%* brake pedal. Bottom screws also need to cut because it touches the floor board when pedal is fully depressed. If I remember correctly, I only use 3 screws here, which I believe is tight enough.. :p

Few days later, I bought another smaller drill bit to complete the 4th screws on the brake pedal and guess what, the drill bit broke but I managed to get it through... one problem, very difficult to screw in because too fit. Had to bore the hole bigger and imagine having the alu. pedal on while doing the boring...:eek: I am not going to remove the 1st 3 screws because it took me sooooo long to put them on!

The brake pedal keeps moving down when I drill it and that makes drilling a lot move difficult... that's why I broke the drill bits.. and I think I cut my hands too... I had sore fingers for days due to the placing of the washer and nuts.. #$%*!! not to mention my back and neck ache for working under the steering column for hours.... YES! HOURS!!! Even a contortionist doesn't work so many hours!!!..
 
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