Central Locking Kaput..

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thanks jarance

will need to go see doctor, my 36 long time no sick ... Its about time.

Cheers
 
jarance;552800 said:
My circuit of the central locking. It is slightly different from the info from bmwgm5.com. basically it is the same except the fuel filler circuit.

Yeah, I'm aware of the fuel flap lock error on my web site regarding how the GM5 door lock relays operate the actuators.
http://www.bmwgm5.com/Door_lock_schematic.htm

I am looking for my original CAD files so I can make the corrections and also add the locking glove box which is only on convertibles. I should have my schematics updated by the end of the month (8/31/2010)

Scott J.
I have all the relays available for the GM3, GM4, GM5, RM1, RMIV, EMSIII and many other BMW modules.
 
scottjoh;555696 said:
Yeah, I'm aware of the fuel flap lock error on my web site regarding how the GM5 door lock relays operate the actuators.
http://www.bmwgm5.com/Door_lock_schematic.htm

I am looking for my original CAD files so I can make the corrections and also add the locking glove box which is only on convertibles. I should have my schematics updated by the end of the month (8/31/2010)

Scott J.
I have all the relays available for the GM3, GM4, GM5, RM1, RMIV, EMSIII and many other BMW modules.

Thanks Scott for the head up. One thing for sure that your web site is the source where I found my solution. Without it, I would not dare to open the GM5 module and investigate it. :listen:

It is a pity not many of us in Malaysia are into DIY. Most of us rather change the module when it is faulty. Your solution have help many of us BMW owner to save some money. :eek:

cheers. Once again thank you for your knowledge. :top:

p/s Pertaining to your project to do solid state switching, you might face a problem because the current need to flow both ways. Volt free contact is still the best option.
 
Jarance,

My take on the not many DIYers in Malaysia. Its due to culture and population.

We here are spoilt/spoiled with cheap labor while in the US for example labor are charged to the hour and it is expensive. This is true for both dealers and indy workshop. So instead of paying the shop you might as well do it yourself since it is managable with the right tools. So kids grow up seeing dads working on their machines, tools laying around and accessible (cheap and easy to source) parts. Kids grow up helping and learning to become DIYers themself. They even have garage rental if you require lifts for the work. So I think the society is somewhat driven to DIY.

Given the same percentage of people DIY over there and here. Smaller country means less DIYers.

Cheers

Now back to central locking
 
Unker J,

If I dont buy new one I can be trapped in my car worr.
Anyway my refurbished GM5 module is up for sale cheaper than used one.
Anyone interested let me know ya.
 
initialM;555781 said:
Unker J,

If I dont buy new one I can be trapped in my car worr.
Anyway my refurbished GM5 module is up for sale cheaper than used one.
Anyone interested let me know ya.

IM, the driver can never be trapped in the car. The fuses for the power window and the door are different fuses.

when you reach a certain speed, all doors will automatically locked when reach certain speed. However, this feature can be disable by re-programming the module. Even if the door is automatically locked when reach certain speed, the dead-bolt will not be activated. That means you can still open the door by pulling the lever twice if the console open/close does not work.

Worst case scenario (if you are trapped inside) is that you still wind down the window and open the door with the key. Only problem is that all the passenger have to go out from the driver side. :stupid:

btw, got commission if I help you to sell your GM5 module. :listen:
 
WAKAKAKAKAK jarance :D, i never heard some1 will trapped in his car, only thing i heard is car will autolock. Anyway just a joke :D :D :D
 
jarance;555810 said:
IM, the driver can never be trapped in the car. The fuses for the power window and the door are different fuses.

when you reach a certain speed, all doors will automatically locked when reach certain speed. However, this feature can be disable by re-programming the module. Even if the door is automatically locked when reach certain speed, the dead-bolt will not be activated. That means you can still open the door by pulling the lever twice if the console open/close does not work.

Worst case scenario (if you are trapped inside) is that you still wind down the window and open the door with the key. Only problem is that all the passenger have to go out from the driver side. :stupid:

btw, got commission if I help you to sell your GM5 module. :listen:

What I meant was what if got hot chicks inside I'll definitely trapped!
I'll be comin to kl again next week fri. Let me know if you want me to bring the GM5.
For you 1 jug on me:listen:
 
Ha.. ha.. bro, if you pay me extra, I rigged your car so that the hot chicks will be automatically trapped in your car until you are done with them.

Keep the module with you. I will direct them to you if they ask for one.
 
jarance;555704 said:
Thanks Scott for the head up. One thing for sure that your web site is the source where I found my solution. Without it, I would not dare to open the GM5 module and investigate it. :listen:

It is a pity not many of us in Malaysia are into DIY. Most of us rather change the module when it is faulty. Your solution have help many of us BMW owner to save some money. :eek:

cheers. Once again thank you for your knowledge. :top:

p/s Pertaining to your project to do solid state switching, you might face a problem because the current need to flow both ways. Volt free contact is still the best option.

Regarding the solid state relay project. http://www.bmwgm5.com/SolidStateRelays.htm Yes, I know current flows in both directions. I'm not an idiot. The MOSFETs are arranged in an H-Bridge configuration with each of my modules forming one side of the H-Bridge. The 2nd line of my project page says I got it working 14 months ago. Not a difficult project.

The problem with relays, as you probably already know, is the relays wear out and go bad! A solid state solution is far more reliable and won't wear out. BMW uses a solid state circuit to drive the front door lock actuators on the E38 (7-series) and E39 (5-series). While the 5 and 7 get more reliable and more expensive solid state circuits we get crappy relays. Do you know how many V23084 relays I've replaced, A LOT.
Relay_Pile.jpg

Know how many E38/E39 modules I've worked on with door lock problems? 0.
 
woh, there is a lot relays..

curious to know what would the cost would be for SSR retrofit as compare to conventional relay?

btw, can you advise the circuit for the SSR? I am now considering it as a project.
 
Scott,

Super website. I've read through your site and now am educated and well prepared for this issue. I thought BMW would use some magic in its circuitry, seems not, just relays. I think the hard part in the solid state relay would be the current handling, 15Amps is huge. How long would these relays be energized at a time typically? Do you find any reason why the front window relays are larger than the rear ones?

Liking your IBUS project.

Jarance,

We should stock some of these relays locally if it fail so frequently. And get some of Scott's 4-layer silkscreen SSR board for experiment. This would help others in need.

Cheers
 
aidilj;555880 said:
Scott,

Super website. I've read through your site and now am educated and well prepared for this issue. I thought BMW would use some magic in its circuitry, seems not, just relays. I think the hard part in the solid state relay would be the current handling, 15Amps is huge. How long would these relays be energized at a time typically? Do you find any reason why the front window relays are larger than the rear ones?

Liking your IBUS project.

Jarance,

We should stock some of these relays locally if it fail so frequently. And get some of Scott's 4-layer silkscreen SSR board for experiment. This would help others in need.

Cheers

I would recommend that you buy the relay from scott when you need them. You can buy from him either direct or thru ebay. Direct is cheaper cos he dont have to pay some commission to ebay.
scott is selling them at a reasonable price for US$15 each and extra US$6 for postal outside USA.

I do this just for fun and to have more knowledge about our ride. Most people who know me will know that I dont charge a single cent when I help them with their problem. There is nothing wrong also to charge people a small fee for giving an alternative solution. It is cheaper than replacing the whole module. (You dont change tyre when you have a puncture)

btw aidil, you also another DIYer? :listen: So you also like the I-Bus as well.. We need to persuade scott to talk more about it on his web site..

Do you know anything about modbus protocol. I have been playing with them for years. Wonder whether they have any similarity to I-Bus and K-Bus protocol?
 
jarance;555888 said:
I would recommend that you buy the relay from scott when you need them. You can buy from him either direct or thru ebay. Direct is cheaper cos he dont have to pay some commission to ebay.
scott is selling them at a reasonable price for US$15 each and extra US$6 for postal outside USA.

I do this just for fun and to have more knowledge about our ride. Most people who know me will know that I dont charge a single cent when I help them with their problem. There is nothing wrong also to charge people a small fee for giving an alternative solution. It is cheaper than replacing the whole module. (You dont change tyre when you have a puncture)

btw aidil, you also another DIYer? :listen: So you also like the I-Bus as well.. We need to persuade scott to talk more about it on his web site..

Do you know anything about modbus protocol. I have been playing with them for years. Wonder whether they have any similarity to I-Bus and K-Bus protocol?

Local stock means faster turnaround, shipping from US even with First Class USPS will take at least a week. If I were to experience this, I would take the relay to a local electronic shop first just because of the quick turnaround to get it fixed.

You can say that I am another DIYer, mostly electronics since I'm very comfortable with it and treat it as my hobby. Check out my site to see some of my past works. I have another DIY coming through.

No I'm not familiar with modbus. But I see IBUS as just another protocol and can be learned. If I would stumble upon this page earlier, I won't be spending $150 on the DICE kit. :76:
 
aidilj;555896 said:
Local stock means faster turnaround, shipping from US even with First Class USPS will take at least a week. If I were to experience this, I would take the relay to a local electronic shop first just because of the quick turnaround to get it fixed.

You can say that I am another DIYer, mostly electronics since I'm very comfortable with it and treat it as my hobby. Check out my site to see some of my past works. I have another DIY coming through.

No I'm not familiar with modbus. But I see IBUS as just another protocol and can be learned. If I would stumble upon this page earlier, I won't be spending $150 on the DICE kit. :76:

bro, where is the link to your website?
 
aidilj;555898 said:
Here they are

http://www.aidilj.com/homemadecpu

http://www.aidilj.com/sigmo

Ignore the author looks please, those are horrible times :thumpdown:

cool man.. you are in robotic. my kid is also in robotic.

saw the video. ha..ha.. it really walk. remind me of MJ's "moon walk" when it goes backward.. :top:

If you have the budget like Honda group, you might get it to work better than Asimo. :listen:
 
jarance;555901 said:
cool man.. you are in robotic. my kid is also in robotic.

saw the video. ha..ha.. it really walk. remind me of MJ's "moon walk" when it goes backward.. :top:

If you have the budget like Honda group, you might get it to work better than Asimo. :listen:

Haha that's the inspiration, ask yourself when looking at others, how hard can it be?
 
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