Brake disc - which one???

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Originally posted by ALBundy@Feb 6 2006, 08:16 PM
C-square, if the discs are relatively new, go and skim it. Should b okie after that :)

I have seen even ori discs warped after a couple of months!!
Big-Al.... thought about it and asked M1 to skim the discs (before CNY) but was told not to waste money skimming as it will not last long since the discs are non-ori. :dunno:
 
Guys... anywhere else I can go to enquire about the price of ATE PowerDiscs? Stuggart and First Division don't have them :dunno:
 
Try Calvin's!!!! or MagicFox.

Sure non ori cannot skim? M1 said that ah? Bugger them. pls do check what thickness u will retain AFTER skimming - maybe this is reason they dun recommend skim.

My suggest is SKIM first ( cheapest ), try it and if warp again - CHANGE.
 
bought mine yesterday, RM430 a pair.. ATE disc's grooved for spare..
 
there's one tyre shop in Puchong near Zoggee's place can do it on the spot. Forgot how much he charges aledi.
 
Originally posted by Donald@Feb 6 2006, 03:50 PM
Drilled some hole :D
Smart! real smart! Lets see how long those last



Get UUC rotors.
The ventilation lines are not cut all the way to the edge like ATE P.D. , thus maintaining the structural integrity of the rotors cross section.
 
Another machine which I saw before is actually mounted on your brake discs, after the calipers are removed. The engine will then be started and gear lever shifts to D, and the mechanic will rotate a lever on the machine continuously to bring the grinding bead closer to the disc. Faster and easier too since brake disc removal is not necessary. For BMW, only applies to the rear discs :) Unless yours is a 325 iX :)
 
My ride is on 4 Lemforder disks, it is not working that well. Minor vibration after say 3 months. It has been about a year now and it vibrates terribly at 100 km/h and above.
 
Just called Rosedi-Motorsport. The National (brand), their groove/drilled disc costing RM650 and the OMP brake pad (equivalent to the EBC Green stuff, according to them) costing RM290 for E36 325. Am I wasting my time, n should just go for the ATE???
Been compalining to my mechanic about the lag in braking feel although already changed the steel braded hose. According to him, it's a normal feeling of lag/lacking for 325 n 328. If want better grip either upgrade to bigger disc and caliper or get a cross/drill.
 
whatever disc you get, suggest you do a proper bedding in procedure before using the rotors fully, i.e. emergency brakes , as proper bedding in is the one of the most crucial factor in the life of the rotors
 
Originally posted by yoke@Feb 21 2006, 05:30 PM
Just called Rosedi-Motorsport. The National (brand), their groove/drilled disc costing RM650 and the OMP brake pad (equivalent to the EBC Green stuff, according to them) costing RM290 for E36 325. Am I wasting my time, n should just go for the ATE???
Been compalining to my mechanic about the lag in braking feel although already changed the steel braded hose. According to him, it's a normal feeling of lag/lacking for 325 n 328. If want better grip either upgrade to bigger disc and caliper or get a cross/drill.

Read below:

Cross drilled/slotted disc rotors

The drilling helps in out-gassing. When the pads and discs heat up, the pads start to vapourise, and basically turn to gas. With a standard disc, when you get gas between the pad and the disc, a split second at the start of each brake application is wasted pushing out the gas between the pad and disc. Slots or cross drilling allow this time to be minimised by giving the gas room to escape.

Remember that there are two functions of a brake disc:

To absorb heat from the braking cycle (the kinetic energy of the moving vehicle is converted to thermal energy in the disc)

To dissipate that heat back to the atmosphere

Cross drilling and slotting do nothing to assist in the absorbtion of kinetic energy as heat, but assist greatly in the dissipation of the heat (along with ventilation of the discs).

The only way to increase the absorbtion of heat is to increase the swept area of the pad, either by having larger pads, or higher diameter rotors.

Larger pads have their own problems in that a single piston cannot
provide even force across the whole face of the pad, that's why there are 2, 4, 6, 8 and now 12 piston calipers making an appearance, to spread the force more evenly over the face of the pad.

The reason cross drilling is preferred to slotting is basically aesthetic. It looks cooler and there is a perception of higher performance.

The total heat capacity of a disc (the amount of heat, i.e. the number of hard stops it can perform before overheating) is determined by the material it is constructed from(usually cast iron), and the sheer volume of that material. Aluminium rotors were tried out on the Lotus Elise to minimise weight, but it was found that the discs had to be physically huge to achieve the same heat capacity as a cast iron disc.

On a purely road car, cross drilling is generally fine if it is done properly and doesn't go too near the edge of the disc. Remember that drilling a bunch of holes removes quite a lot of pad material, reducing braking capacity.

Each of the holes assists in dissipating heat back to the atmosphere, however, the edges of a cross drilled hole cool down faster than the rest of the disc and the expansion caused by different temperatures can result in a disc cracking at the edge of the hole when it is heat cycled.

Slotting removes far less material, and there is also far less temperature difference between the edges of a slot and the rest of a disc. That is why most discs on race cars are slotted but not cross drilled.

Summary
Braking performance is dependant mostly upon the ability of the disc to transform kinetic energy into thermal energy. This is assisted by having a greater swept area.

The total amount of thermal energy the disc can absorb is dependant solely upon the disc material and volume.

The dissipation of heat into the atmosphere is by far less important to the braking cycle, it is solely cooling the disc back down between applications to maximise the above braking capacity

Remember that cross drilling assists slightly in the time taken to apply the brake pedal, but decreases the ability of the disc to transform kinetic energy to thermal energy

(1) by reducing the surface area of contact between the disc and pad. It also reduces the total heat capacity of the disc

(2) by removing disc material. It assists slightly in the dissipation of heat back to the atmosphere
(3), but brings stress and thermal cracking problems with it.

For a race car, the slight advantages of cross drilling in steps (1) and (3) is far outweighed by the disadvantages in step (1) and (2).

Remember that cross drilling and slotting both also assiste in cleaning the pad face to maintain a healthy pad to disc contact surface.

Note:Bear in mind that this doesn't apply to carbon / ceramic braking systems, and also is less of a problem with discs that have the holes cast into them rather than drilled (Porsche, Ferrari etc).

Retrieved from "http://www.overclockers.com.au/wiki/Cross_Drilling"
 
:huh: Thks Bro Ichiwan for the explanation. So which is the better alternative to go, to get that immediate grip (without the lag feeling) and without to much burning of the pocket.

a. Larger disc (aslo means need to change the caliper)
b. Slotted
c. Cross drilled

Obviously changing to a better pad will help I guess say the EBC Green stuff??
 
Go for standard ATEs. At most get the slotted ATEs.

Things to check:

Brake booster
Master Cylinder
Brake lines

Check for leaks in these. If u want more feel and progressive braking, get a better brake booster - say, from an e32 (if it can fit).

U could upgrade your caliper to 4 pot (I presume the standard is the floating caliper type - does it have one or two pistons/pots?), without having to change the size of the disc. Or u could go spend a lot of money (5 figure region) to get brembo disc and caliper set.

The EBCs provide improved braking only upon reaching its optimal operating temperature - which in normal driving conditions, will only happen relatively infrequently. You will find that the grip is less when the pads are "cold" than if u were running standard pads. If I were u, I would go for Jurids, Texstar or Pagid.

Suggest u take it one step at a time until you are satisfied with the braking performance.
 
Here's some info :


Brake Rotor Size
Bigger rotors will make your friends think you are cool. Bigger rotors look sexy. But bigger rotors do not stop the car. What a bigger rotor will do is lower the overall operating temperature of the brakes - which is a GREAT idea IF your temperatures are causing problems with other parts of the braking system. Take, for example, an F500 racecar - a small 800 pound single seat formula car. While the brakes are certainly much smaller than those found on a 3,000 pound GT1 Camaro, that does not necessarily mean that they need to be made larger. In fact, swapping on a GT1 brake package would probably do more harm than good - that's a lot of steel hanging on the wheel that needs to accelerate each time the "go" pedal is pushed. So, the moral of this story is “Bigger is better until your temperatures are under control.” After that point, you are doing more harm than good...unless you really like the look.

Cross-Drilling
Cross-drilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads that are 50 to 60 years old, not a whole lot. Rotors were first “drilled” because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures - a process known as “gassing out”. These gasses then formed a thin layer between the brake pad face and the rotor, acting as a lubricant and effectively lowering the coefficient of friction. The holes were implemented to give the gasses somewhere to go. It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the same gassing out phenomenon as the early pads.

A standard cross-drilled brake rotor.
For this reason, the holes have carried over more as a design and lightening feature than a performance feature. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, the temperatures can actually increase. The holes can actually create stress risers, allowing the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads - sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it.


The one glaring exception here is in the rare situation where the rotors are so oversized (look at any performance motorcycle or lighter formula car) that the rotors are drilled like Swiss cheese. While the issues of stress risers and brake pad wear are still present, these racing teams are replacing brake pads on a much more frequent basis - sometimes every race weekend. Drilling is used to reduce the mass of the rotor in spite of these concerns. (Remember – nothing comes for free. If these teams switched to non-drilled rotors, they would see lower operating temperatures and longer brake pad life - at the expense of higher weight. It's all about trade-offs.)

Slotting
Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time. This, in turn, helps to reduce the “glazing” often found during high-speed use, which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)


Cryogenically Treating
Last year a top race team bought 4 rotors. Two were bone stock, and two were subjected to a process know as Cryogenically Treating - one of the high-tech buzzwords floating around the paddock. The rotors were run back-to-back on the same track on the same car on the same day with temperatures taken to make sure that they saw the same level of heat. Following the track session, the parts were removed and we had them literally dissected by a materials lab.
The testing conducted included surface hardness, grain structure analysis, density, and surface scanning with an electron microscope. Guess what - after seeing the heat of use, the rotors looked identical in every regard. This is not to say that there is not a benefit from treating other parts that see lower temperatures and/or have different material properties. However, treating the rotors on the racecar showed no tangible benefits (note that it didn't seem to hurt anything either). Come to your own conclusions…

Conclusion
So, what's the secret recipe? Again, there is no absolute right or wrong answer. Like most modifications, there are those that appear to be well founded and those that “look cool.” If ultimate thermal performance is your goal, look to what the top teams are running (relatively large, slotted rotors). However, if “image” is your thing, break out the drill press – and be prepared to replace your brake pads on a regular basis.
 
Original disk quoted by my mech was RM330pp pads RM300+ per set.

I got ATE powerdisk for RM200pp and pads at RM120 per set. ( Eurotech Nordin Street Penang Mr Loh 0195955042).
 
leonard;87426 said:
My ride is on 4 Lemforder disks, it is not working that well. Minor vibration after say 3 months. It has been about a year now and it vibrates terribly at 100 km/h and above.

sometimes, you also need to check your lower arm bold joint and bushes. i had this problem too. lemforder warp easily when travelling long distance. now, looking for replacement for front and rear, either ori or ate from ori distributors. not too sure about brembo. too cheap to be true. too many immitations.
once was at packaging printing shop. saw products made in malaysia/taiwan but packaging printed made in japan or germany or USA. so, just make sure you buy from license distributors.

aku punya falsampah!
 
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