Anyone tried this before???

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Calvin Tan

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Anyone tried Hyper Voltage System - Hot InaZma voltage stabilizer and ground wire in your BMW before? Thinking of getting one. It looks nice and dyno proven. But before this need to hear more feedback.....For more info please check this out at http://www.eautoworks.com/
 
Calvin,

You try 1st lar then tell us.......cos I'm sure we won't be able to afford it...................hehhehehehe :)
 
i'm thinking of getting the RM200+ Pivot Raizin one..

i dunno, i just suspect my voltage being irregular... so this might help.

how much is this hot inazma one?
 
my one is call Power stablelizer (Taiwan made), Yes help a bit. why i said so bcos i had voltage meter to monitor the voltage after n b4 instalation.
 
Kev, I will definately try it. Ofcause you can affort it. But this one is not your priority ma....

Tom, this will sure help your problem. I have the same problem due to the Schrick cam is too high, unstable idling....
The price you can check on the http://www.eautoworks.com/
USD200++ without shipping cost. Soon to find out. Because my customer might want to get this also...
 
any try Hot InaZma on their E46 yet? how is it? where did u buy it and how much?
 
hi! i've installed 3 stabilizers from pivot. it makes hell of a difference. lights are brighter, better idlling of engine, better bass response and most importantly, better fuel consumption. also you should ground your engine. Use proper rated cables, at least 16mm2. do not get the cheap ones available at acc shops. a good one will set you back bout' rm400 but it's worth it. it's the best acc i've installed in me ride so far.
 
Rubee,
what are you using as your grounding points?

have you played around with where the best points are?
 
the voltage stabilizer is for sure will impress u.the idle is nice.n u can fell slight improvement on torque n fc.to make better split the ground to the best point such as alternator the exhaust.ya no kidding ur exhaust.n also few more points.i have done it on my e46.it does,make hell of different.

i used the e-power 1 on my car.that is cause me rm280.for the hot inazama original from sun automobile i heard is twice the price.the r few range from this brand.for low rpm range,high rpm range,and multi rpm range.and the latest ones the economy purposse.

i m not sure how whats the different from the cheap stabilizer price like e-power n pivot compare to the expensive ones like hot inazma.
 
Hey Daniel!
My Grounding was DIY. I got the Cables from Pasar Road, Amoured, nice orange once( Usually used for welding) with gold plated cable lugs. the grounding poingts that I used were
1. Directly from the ground cable from the battery.
2. Alternator
3. 4 points to the Engine Block ( at every sub component of the engine block)
4. Both sides of the absorber mounting frame ( where you install your upper roll stabillizers)
5. To the firewall
6. and lastly to the exhaust mounting.

The bad news is that once I did all this, my tempreature reading was reading at high.
Apparently my voltage before this was not enough to detect the actual temp. ( don't know if this is true). Before this it was slightly below middle. But got that fixed. changed the damn termo.
 
Rubes, what is the cost of the cable per meter run? Can they withstand high temperature. Welding cable can take up to 200 to 400 amp depending on the
cable size. What is the size of the cable.

Grounding is an important part of the car electric. Sometime resistance increases when the contact surface is coated with thin layer of oxidized material. When this happened, current flow would be restricted and caused a loss of performance.
it would be good idea to clean up the oxidized area first and applied copper grease.

rubes72 said:
Hey Daniel!
My Grounding was DIY. I got the Cables from Pasar Road, Amoured, nice orange once( Usually used for welding) with gold plated cable lugs. the grounding poingts that I used were
1. Directly from the ground cable from the battery.
2. Alternator
3. 4 points to the Engine Block ( at every sub component of the engine block)
4. Both sides of the absorber mounting frame ( where you install your upper roll stabillizers)
5. To the firewall
6. and lastly to the exhaust mounting.

The bad news is that once I did all this, my tempreature reading was reading at high.
Apparently my voltage before this was not enough to detect the actual temp. ( don't know if this is true). Before this it was slightly below middle. But got that fixed. changed the damn termo.
 
Hey Jarance,
If there is oxidised material on the contact, that means there is a leakage somewhere on your electrical. when you bolt elctrical cables, make sure it is tight, loose connectors may cause sparking, and yes the contact points has to be absolutely clean, with no residue.
On the cable size, you can use anything above 16mm, which has a rating of 150 - 200 amps (has to be of DC spec which has lower resistance). This is especially if you want to make direct contact with your ground battery. It has to be heat resistant and halun free. You can install a copper bus bar if you like, but I chose gold plated lugs instead.
 
here's some update... being reading through some comments...
they say woven wires has better conductivity for grounding... know where to get ka?
 
The cables has to be multi-cored for better electricity flow, the finer the cables the higher the resistance. that is why is DC cables the core is much thicker as the ampheres is much higher . Woven cables or stranded cables are usually used for AC application as the resistance is higher and the ampheres lower. You should be able to get the cables along the main road, right across the food court. But if you're not feeling that adventurous, you can buy a good grounding kit for RM400. It has a rating of 200ampheres, don't ask the sales man cause he wouldn't know.
But it is usually located in the display where the have acc for Merc and bimmers.
 
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